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Building an open roof over an existing patio
I'm new to building things for myself but I tried and I have new respect for
the people who do this for a living. I saw a design in a book and it called
for 4 by8 beams with a box of the same around the perimiter of the patio and
a checkerboard pattern on the inside, and lattice panels held in place with 2
by 2's. I have 19.5 foot square and have posts every 10 feet around the
perimeter of 4*6's i have 4*6*20 treated beams going across held in with 6
inch lag screws 3 for each beam on each side and i have one of those every 45
inches. The plan calls for 4*6's to be cut and placed the other direction
held in with angle brackets. is that to much weight to be held up without a
post in the center of my patio (where my table goes) if so does anybody have
any solutions to this problem.thanks in advance
Paul
the people who do this for a living. I saw a design in a book and it called
for 4 by8 beams with a box of the same around the perimiter of the patio and
a checkerboard pattern on the inside, and lattice panels held in place with 2
by 2's. I have 19.5 foot square and have posts every 10 feet around the
perimeter of 4*6's i have 4*6*20 treated beams going across held in with 6
inch lag screws 3 for each beam on each side and i have one of those every 45
inches. The plan calls for 4*6's to be cut and placed the other direction
held in with angle brackets. is that to much weight to be held up without a
post in the center of my patio (where my table goes) if so does anybody have
any solutions to this problem.thanks in advance
Paul
Seems a bit long for a free spanning 4x6.........hum
It will sag...........
I would through bolt and be a bit leary of "lags" for one. Through bolting
is always best.
It is just as easy and not too much additional cost.
So if I understand it, you have 4x6 spanning 19.6 feet or less......
With lattice weighing on that......
I would consider a 2x8 or 2x10...maybe at 24 to 30 inch o.c.
set on top or notched and joist hung...
It may start looking too massive. but with a tasteful lattice work or
pattern may look fine.
jloomis
"kujo8me" <u43374@uwe> wrote in message news:83a125721b775@uwe...
> I'm new to building things for myself but I tried and I have new respect
> for
> the people who do this for a living. I saw a design in a book and it
> called
> for 4 by8 beams with a box of the same around the perimiter of the patio
> and
> a checkerboard pattern on the inside, and lattice panels held in place
> with 2
> by 2's. I have 19.5 foot square and have posts every 10 feet around the
> perimeter of 4*6's i have 4*6*20 treated beams going across held in with
> 6
> inch lag screws 3 for each beam on each side and i have one of those every
> 45
> inches. The plan calls for 4*6's to be cut and placed the other direction
> held in with angle brackets. is that to much weight to be held up without
> a
> post in the center of my patio (where my table goes) if so does anybody
> have
> any solutions to this problem.thanks in advance
>
> Paul
>
It will sag...........
I would through bolt and be a bit leary of "lags" for one. Through bolting
is always best.
It is just as easy and not too much additional cost.
So if I understand it, you have 4x6 spanning 19.6 feet or less......
With lattice weighing on that......
I would consider a 2x8 or 2x10...maybe at 24 to 30 inch o.c.
set on top or notched and joist hung...
It may start looking too massive. but with a tasteful lattice work or
pattern may look fine.
jloomis
"kujo8me" <u43374@uwe> wrote in message news:83a125721b775@uwe...
> I'm new to building things for myself but I tried and I have new respect
> for
> the people who do this for a living. I saw a design in a book and it
> called
> for 4 by8 beams with a box of the same around the perimiter of the patio
> and
> a checkerboard pattern on the inside, and lattice panels held in place
> with 2
> by 2's. I have 19.5 foot square and have posts every 10 feet around the
> perimeter of 4*6's i have 4*6*20 treated beams going across held in with
> 6
> inch lag screws 3 for each beam on each side and i have one of those every
> 45
> inches. The plan calls for 4*6's to be cut and placed the other direction
> held in with angle brackets. is that to much weight to be held up without
> a
> post in the center of my patio (where my table goes) if so does anybody
> have
> any solutions to this problem.thanks in advance
>
> Paul
>
on 5/3/2008 11:37 PM kujo8me said the following:
> I'm new to building things for myself but I tried and I have new respect for
> the people who do this for a living. I saw a design in a book and it called
> for 4 by8 beams with a box of the same around the perimiter of the patio and
> a checkerboard pattern on the inside, and lattice panels held in place with 2
> by 2's. I have 19.5 foot square and have posts every 10 feet around the
> perimeter of 4*6's i have 4*6*20 treated beams going across held in with 6
> inch lag screws 3 for each beam on each side and i have one of those every 45
> inches. The plan calls for 4*6's to be cut and placed the other direction
> held in with angle brackets. is that to much weight to be held up without a
> post in the center of my patio (where my table goes) if so does anybody have
> any solutions to this problem.thanks in advance
>
> Paul
>
>
Just for your information, it is called a 'pergola', in case you want to
Google it.
--
Bill
In Hamptonburgh, NY
To email, remove the double zeroes after @
> I'm new to building things for myself but I tried and I have new respect for
> the people who do this for a living. I saw a design in a book and it called
> for 4 by8 beams with a box of the same around the perimiter of the patio and
> a checkerboard pattern on the inside, and lattice panels held in place with 2
> by 2's. I have 19.5 foot square and have posts every 10 feet around the
> perimeter of 4*6's i have 4*6*20 treated beams going across held in with 6
> inch lag screws 3 for each beam on each side and i have one of those every 45
> inches. The plan calls for 4*6's to be cut and placed the other direction
> held in with angle brackets. is that to much weight to be held up without a
> post in the center of my patio (where my table goes) if so does anybody have
> any solutions to this problem.thanks in advance
>
> Paul
>
>
Just for your information, it is called a 'pergola', in case you want to
Google it.
--
Bill
In Hamptonburgh, NY
To email, remove the double zeroes after @
"kujo8me" <u43374@uwe> wrote in message news:83a125721b775@uwe...
> I'm new to building things for myself but I tried and I have new respect
> for
> the people who do this for a living. I saw a design in a book and it
> called
> for 4 by8 beams with a box of the same around the perimiter of the patio
> and
> a checkerboard pattern on the inside, and lattice panels held in place
> with 2
> by 2's. I have 19.5 foot square and have posts every 10 feet around the
> perimeter of 4*6's i have 4*6*20 treated beams going across held in with
> 6
> inch lag screws 3 for each beam on each side and i have one of those every
> 45
> inches. The plan calls for 4*6's to be cut and placed the other direction
> held in with angle brackets. is that to much weight to be held up without
> a
> post in the center of my patio (where my table goes) if so does anybody
> have
> any solutions to this problem.thanks in advance
>
> Paul
>
Inexpensive and lighter weight method is to use 1X4s, and 2X2s to fabricate
a non-structrual beam if you will. Checkerboard effect is there. The only
drawback is that the resultant beams will be 1/2" less high.
My preference in your project would to cover the roof conventionally, and
put a skylight in one location in the center.
--
Dave
Parkinson's disease, not easy to define.
Much less cure.
> I'm new to building things for myself but I tried and I have new respect
> for
> the people who do this for a living. I saw a design in a book and it
> called
> for 4 by8 beams with a box of the same around the perimiter of the patio
> and
> a checkerboard pattern on the inside, and lattice panels held in place
> with 2
> by 2's. I have 19.5 foot square and have posts every 10 feet around the
> perimeter of 4*6's i have 4*6*20 treated beams going across held in with
> 6
> inch lag screws 3 for each beam on each side and i have one of those every
> 45
> inches. The plan calls for 4*6's to be cut and placed the other direction
> held in with angle brackets. is that to much weight to be held up without
> a
> post in the center of my patio (where my table goes) if so does anybody
> have
> any solutions to this problem.thanks in advance
>
> Paul
>
Inexpensive and lighter weight method is to use 1X4s, and 2X2s to fabricate
a non-structrual beam if you will. Checkerboard effect is there. The only
drawback is that the resultant beams will be 1/2" less high.
My preference in your project would to cover the roof conventionally, and
put a skylight in one location in the center.
--
Dave
Parkinson's disease, not easy to define.
Much less cure.
Thanks for the advise I think I'm goting to use the idea of the 1x4 and 1x6
to make the beams and use floor joists to support rather than the lag screws
regards
Paul
Dioclese wrote:
>> I'm new to building things for myself but I tried and I have new respect
>> for
>[quoted text clipped - 17 lines]
>>
>> Paul
>
>Inexpensive and lighter weight method is to use 1X4s, and 2X2s to fabricate
>a non-structrual beam if you will. Checkerboard effect is there. The only
>drawback is that the resultant beams will be 1/2" less high.
>
>My preference in your project would to cover the roof conventionally, and
>put a skylight in one location in the center.
--
Message posted via * w w w .homekb . com
to make the beams and use floor joists to support rather than the lag screws
regards
Paul
Dioclese wrote:
>> I'm new to building things for myself but I tried and I have new respect
>> for
>[quoted text clipped - 17 lines]
>>
>> Paul
>
>Inexpensive and lighter weight method is to use 1X4s, and 2X2s to fabricate
>a non-structrual beam if you will. Checkerboard effect is there. The only
>drawback is that the resultant beams will be 1/2" less high.
>
>My preference in your project would to cover the roof conventionally, and
>put a skylight in one location in the center.
--
Message posted via * w w w .homekb . com
kujo8me wrote:
> I'm new to building things for myself but I tried and I have new
> respect for the people who do this for a living. I saw a design
> in a
> book and it called for 4 by8 beams with a box of the same around
> the
> perimiter of the patio and a checkerboard pattern on the inside,
> and
> lattice panels held in place with 2 by 2's. I have 19.5 foot
> square
> and have posts every 10 feet around the perimeter of 4*6's i
> have
> 4*6*20 treated beams going across held in with 6 inch lag screws
> 3
> for each beam on each side and i have one of those every 45
> inches.
> The plan calls for 4*6's to be cut and placed the other
> direction
> held in with angle brackets. is that to much weight to be held
> up
> without a post in the center of my patio (where my table goes)
> if so
> does anybody have any solutions to this problem.thanks in
> advance
>
> Paul
P:
I have another suggestion for you to tumble. If what you want is
filtered
light, look at the various meshes of greenhouse shade cloth. It is
a lot lighter
than lath, doesn't need painting, gives a uniform dispersion of
light instead
of the staggered light of lath, does much better wind screening
and it is not terribly
expensive to have made up in edged and grommeted panels that can
be
affixed to supports in a number of ways. You might get wind whip
in
some locations on a big panel though.
Your notations permit of more than one interpretation. Clearly
differentiating what
superstructure you have in place now, outside, I assume, a
concrete pad, from
what you want to put up will help. If you don't get real top
heavy, I've seen some
work along the line of your notion that pleasantly incorporated
pipe as supporting
elements. For that matter, if you wanted to use pipe or track
overhead, you could always
grommet the shade cloth with rings to make the whole covering
slide back
on gloomy days.
I don't have any immediate information on dedicated track elements
but a greenhouse
supply outfit would. Good catalogue request idea.
Regards,
Edward Hennessey
> I'm new to building things for myself but I tried and I have new
> respect for the people who do this for a living. I saw a design
> in a
> book and it called for 4 by8 beams with a box of the same around
> the
> perimiter of the patio and a checkerboard pattern on the inside,
> and
> lattice panels held in place with 2 by 2's. I have 19.5 foot
> square
> and have posts every 10 feet around the perimeter of 4*6's i
> have
> 4*6*20 treated beams going across held in with 6 inch lag screws
> 3
> for each beam on each side and i have one of those every 45
> inches.
> The plan calls for 4*6's to be cut and placed the other
> direction
> held in with angle brackets. is that to much weight to be held
> up
> without a post in the center of my patio (where my table goes)
> if so
> does anybody have any solutions to this problem.thanks in
> advance
>
> Paul
P:
I have another suggestion for you to tumble. If what you want is
filtered
light, look at the various meshes of greenhouse shade cloth. It is
a lot lighter
than lath, doesn't need painting, gives a uniform dispersion of
light instead
of the staggered light of lath, does much better wind screening
and it is not terribly
expensive to have made up in edged and grommeted panels that can
be
affixed to supports in a number of ways. You might get wind whip
in
some locations on a big panel though.
Your notations permit of more than one interpretation. Clearly
differentiating what
superstructure you have in place now, outside, I assume, a
concrete pad, from
what you want to put up will help. If you don't get real top
heavy, I've seen some
work along the line of your notion that pleasantly incorporated
pipe as supporting
elements. For that matter, if you wanted to use pipe or track
overhead, you could always
grommet the shade cloth with rings to make the whole covering
slide back
on gloomy days.
I don't have any immediate information on dedicated track elements
but a greenhouse
supply outfit would. Good catalogue request idea.
Regards,
Edward Hennessey
