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Restringing/re-intonating the Ric 12 chapter 2
Restringing/re-intonating the Ric 12 chapter 2
Project time again ;-)
Some of you may remember my comments on intonating my Rickenbacker
360/12 from a few months ago. I had originally strung it with a set of
Ernie Balls that had a plain G string, which led to a horrible problem
with intonation of the G pair. This guitar has only 6 saddles, one per
string pair, as does most Ric 12 string guitars.
Anyway, I had at the time of the earlier post switched to a set of
Pyramid Golds, which is a flat-wound set that has a wound G string.
That set improved the intonation problem, although the low E pair was
off some. I liked the sound of the flat-wounds on that guitar, but I
hated the feel; it seemed like I had to press harder than normal to have
both strings of a pair make good contact with the frets.
A few people suggested that I try the Rickenbacker strings, so I went
ahead and ordered a couple of sets online. I've been putting off
changing the strings until today, because it's a real chore. I started
at about 6:15 this evening, now it's 9:00 and I'm still not finished.
The strings are on and basically tuned up, but the intonation's all out
of whack. It'll probably take me another hour to get it all right, but
I gotta eat!
Anyway, even though the absolute intonation isn't dialed in yet, I can
draw some conclusions by tuning at the third fret and checking where
things are at the 15th fret (not the absolute pitch, but how far the
strings of each pair are off from one another.
Here's what I've concluded, tentatively:
(1) I've still got a problem with the low E pair. Maybe not quite as
much as with the Pyramid set, but my ear can pick it up.
(2) Even more annoying, given the claims of Rickenbacker's quality
control, the high E's are off. These are tuned in unison and use
presumably identical strings! Tune them so they match on the 3rd fret,
and at the 15th fret they're off by about 5 cents from one another.
Doing the final tweaking on the saddle positions isn't likely to change
this.
ARRRGGGHHHH!
Time to bite the bullet and get the 12-saddle bridge, perhaps??
Project time again ;-)
Some of you may remember my comments on intonating my Rickenbacker
360/12 from a few months ago. I had originally strung it with a set of
Ernie Balls that had a plain G string, which led to a horrible problem
with intonation of the G pair. This guitar has only 6 saddles, one per
string pair, as does most Ric 12 string guitars.
Anyway, I had at the time of the earlier post switched to a set of
Pyramid Golds, which is a flat-wound set that has a wound G string.
That set improved the intonation problem, although the low E pair was
off some. I liked the sound of the flat-wounds on that guitar, but I
hated the feel; it seemed like I had to press harder than normal to have
both strings of a pair make good contact with the frets.
A few people suggested that I try the Rickenbacker strings, so I went
ahead and ordered a couple of sets online. I've been putting off
changing the strings until today, because it's a real chore. I started
at about 6:15 this evening, now it's 9:00 and I'm still not finished.
The strings are on and basically tuned up, but the intonation's all out
of whack. It'll probably take me another hour to get it all right, but
I gotta eat!
Anyway, even though the absolute intonation isn't dialed in yet, I can
draw some conclusions by tuning at the third fret and checking where
things are at the 15th fret (not the absolute pitch, but how far the
strings of each pair are off from one another.
Here's what I've concluded, tentatively:
(1) I've still got a problem with the low E pair. Maybe not quite as
much as with the Pyramid set, but my ear can pick it up.
(2) Even more annoying, given the claims of Rickenbacker's quality
control, the high E's are off. These are tuned in unison and use
presumably identical strings! Tune them so they match on the 3rd fret,
and at the 15th fret they're off by about 5 cents from one another.
Doing the final tweaking on the saddle positions isn't likely to change
this.
ARRRGGGHHHH!
Time to bite the bullet and get the 12-saddle bridge, perhaps??
Re: Restringing/re-intonating the Ric 12 chapter 2
I read a review on the ric 360/12 on zzounds and here is what was said about
stringing the guitar and intonation..
Ease of Use:
It's incredibly easy to get great sounds from this product. The fifth knob
might confuse some newcomers to the Rick-Land, but reading the manual (it is
not that long, honestly!) will clear that up. The pots are arranged a bit
differently than on generic-brand guitars, but they're easy to figure out,
too, especially since they're labeled. The neck is so much easier to get
used to than everyone else seems to think, and my hands are average sized,
not tiny child hands. As I mentioned before, the pickups have a very wide
range and are easy to find great sounds with. One thing, though, if you
replace one of the unison strings (a b or e) MAKE SURE THE OTHER STRING'S
GAUGE MATCHES! If you use a 9 and a 10 or something like that in one of the
unison pairs, it will throw off the intonation quite a bit up the neck, and
everything you play high up on the neck will sound like it is being played
through a Leslie. This is a downside of all 12s, though, so I won't take off
for it, and the intonation is perfect apart from that, especially if you use
the stock RIC strings. The action is nice, too. Overall, this gets 9 here,
too, just because some people find the neck hard to get used to (although I
love it).
"RichL" <rpleavitt@yahoo,com > wrote in message
news:rY7Tj.674$Ve.77@trnddc08...
> Project time again ;-)
>
> Some of you may remember my comments on intonating my Rickenbacker
> 360/12 from a few months ago. I had originally strung it with a set of
> Ernie Balls that had a plain G string, which led to a horrible problem
> with intonation of the G pair. This guitar has only 6 saddles, one per
> string pair, as does most Ric 12 string guitars.
>
> Anyway, I had at the time of the earlier post switched to a set of
> Pyramid Golds, which is a flat-wound set that has a wound G string.
> That set improved the intonation problem, although the low E pair was
> off some. I liked the sound of the flat-wounds on that guitar, but I
> hated the feel; it seemed like I had to press harder than normal to have
> both strings of a pair make good contact with the frets.
>
> A few people suggested that I try the Rickenbacker strings, so I went
> ahead and ordered a couple of sets online. I've been putting off
> changing the strings until today, because it's a real chore. I started
> at about 6:15 this evening, now it's 9:00 and I'm still not finished.
> The strings are on and basically tuned up, but the intonation's all out
> of whack. It'll probably take me another hour to get it all right, but
> I gotta eat!
>
> Anyway, even though the absolute intonation isn't dialed in yet, I can
> draw some conclusions by tuning at the third fret and checking where
> things are at the 15th fret (not the absolute pitch, but how far the
> strings of each pair are off from one another.
>
> Here's what I've concluded, tentatively:
>
> (1) I've still got a problem with the low E pair. Maybe not quite as
> much as with the Pyramid set, but my ear can pick it up.
>
> (2) Even more annoying, given the claims of Rickenbacker's quality
> control, the high E's are off. These are tuned in unison and use
> presumably identical strings! Tune them so they match on the 3rd fret,
> and at the 15th fret they're off by about 5 cents from one another.
>
> Doing the final tweaking on the saddle positions isn't likely to change
> this.
>
> ARRRGGGHHHH!
>
> Time to bite the bullet and get the 12-saddle bridge, perhaps??
>
>
I read a review on the ric 360/12 on zzounds and here is what was said about
stringing the guitar and intonation..
Ease of Use:
It's incredibly easy to get great sounds from this product. The fifth knob
might confuse some newcomers to the Rick-Land, but reading the manual (it is
not that long, honestly!) will clear that up. The pots are arranged a bit
differently than on generic-brand guitars, but they're easy to figure out,
too, especially since they're labeled. The neck is so much easier to get
used to than everyone else seems to think, and my hands are average sized,
not tiny child hands. As I mentioned before, the pickups have a very wide
range and are easy to find great sounds with. One thing, though, if you
replace one of the unison strings (a b or e) MAKE SURE THE OTHER STRING'S
GAUGE MATCHES! If you use a 9 and a 10 or something like that in one of the
unison pairs, it will throw off the intonation quite a bit up the neck, and
everything you play high up on the neck will sound like it is being played
through a Leslie. This is a downside of all 12s, though, so I won't take off
for it, and the intonation is perfect apart from that, especially if you use
the stock RIC strings. The action is nice, too. Overall, this gets 9 here,
too, just because some people find the neck hard to get used to (although I
love it).
"RichL" <rpleavitt@yahoo,com > wrote in message
news:rY7Tj.674$Ve.77@trnddc08...
> Project time again ;-)
>
> Some of you may remember my comments on intonating my Rickenbacker
> 360/12 from a few months ago. I had originally strung it with a set of
> Ernie Balls that had a plain G string, which led to a horrible problem
> with intonation of the G pair. This guitar has only 6 saddles, one per
> string pair, as does most Ric 12 string guitars.
>
> Anyway, I had at the time of the earlier post switched to a set of
> Pyramid Golds, which is a flat-wound set that has a wound G string.
> That set improved the intonation problem, although the low E pair was
> off some. I liked the sound of the flat-wounds on that guitar, but I
> hated the feel; it seemed like I had to press harder than normal to have
> both strings of a pair make good contact with the frets.
>
> A few people suggested that I try the Rickenbacker strings, so I went
> ahead and ordered a couple of sets online. I've been putting off
> changing the strings until today, because it's a real chore. I started
> at about 6:15 this evening, now it's 9:00 and I'm still not finished.
> The strings are on and basically tuned up, but the intonation's all out
> of whack. It'll probably take me another hour to get it all right, but
> I gotta eat!
>
> Anyway, even though the absolute intonation isn't dialed in yet, I can
> draw some conclusions by tuning at the third fret and checking where
> things are at the 15th fret (not the absolute pitch, but how far the
> strings of each pair are off from one another.
>
> Here's what I've concluded, tentatively:
>
> (1) I've still got a problem with the low E pair. Maybe not quite as
> much as with the Pyramid set, but my ear can pick it up.
>
> (2) Even more annoying, given the claims of Rickenbacker's quality
> control, the high E's are off. These are tuned in unison and use
> presumably identical strings! Tune them so they match on the 3rd fret,
> and at the 15th fret they're off by about 5 cents from one another.
>
> Doing the final tweaking on the saddle positions isn't likely to change
> this.
>
> ARRRGGGHHHH!
>
> Time to bite the bullet and get the 12-saddle bridge, perhaps??
>
>
Re: Restringing/re-intonating the Ric 12 chapter 2
tle4 <tle4@verizon,net > wrote:
> I read a review on the ric 360/12 on zzounds and here is what was
> said about stringing the guitar and intonation..
>
> Ease of Use:
> It's incredibly easy to get great sounds from this product. The fifth
> knob might confuse some newcomers to the Rick-Land, but reading the
> manual (it is not that long, honestly!) will clear that up. The pots
> are arranged a bit differently than on generic-brand guitars, but
> they're easy to figure out, too, especially since they're labeled.
> The neck is so much easier to get used to than everyone else seems to
> think, and my hands are average sized, not tiny child hands. As I
> mentioned before, the pickups have a very wide range and are easy to
> find great sounds with. One thing, though, if you replace one of the
> unison strings (a b or e) MAKE SURE THE OTHER STRING'S GAUGE MATCHES!
> If you use a 9 and a 10 or something like that in one of the unison
> pairs, it will throw off the intonation quite a bit up the neck, and
> everything you play high up on the neck will sound like it is being
> played through a Leslie. This is a downside of all 12s, though, so I
> won't take off for it, and the intonation is perfect apart from that,
> especially if you use the stock RIC strings. The action is nice, too.
> Overall, this gets 9 here, too, just because some people find the
> neck hard to get used to (although I love it).
Oh yeah, if you use two different gauges, you're screwed.
The two high E strings are both 10s, so that's not the problem.
Anyway,...
I spent about an hour on the saddles, and giving the strings a little
bit of time to settle in, then back to the saddles again. Stretched all
the strings out really good. Now things seem a bit better. I think
what I had done is to put a little bit of a kink on one of the E strings
while I was stringing it up. As it sits longer, the two E strings seem
to be coming together at the high frets when they're in tune on the low
frets. Played around with some open and barred chords on the low frets,
did a final tuning to find the best compromise, and then....the ultimate
test....played a barred D chord up at the 10th fret. PERFECT!
I'll let these things settle in overnight and finish in the morning. By
the way, I love the feel of those Ric strings, much better than the
Pyramids. Of course it came with Ric strings but that was 20 years ago
and I haven't used them since. I had forgotten how good they were.
tle4 <tle4@verizon,net > wrote:
> I read a review on the ric 360/12 on zzounds and here is what was
> said about stringing the guitar and intonation..
>
> Ease of Use:
> It's incredibly easy to get great sounds from this product. The fifth
> knob might confuse some newcomers to the Rick-Land, but reading the
> manual (it is not that long, honestly!) will clear that up. The pots
> are arranged a bit differently than on generic-brand guitars, but
> they're easy to figure out, too, especially since they're labeled.
> The neck is so much easier to get used to than everyone else seems to
> think, and my hands are average sized, not tiny child hands. As I
> mentioned before, the pickups have a very wide range and are easy to
> find great sounds with. One thing, though, if you replace one of the
> unison strings (a b or e) MAKE SURE THE OTHER STRING'S GAUGE MATCHES!
> If you use a 9 and a 10 or something like that in one of the unison
> pairs, it will throw off the intonation quite a bit up the neck, and
> everything you play high up on the neck will sound like it is being
> played through a Leslie. This is a downside of all 12s, though, so I
> won't take off for it, and the intonation is perfect apart from that,
> especially if you use the stock RIC strings. The action is nice, too.
> Overall, this gets 9 here, too, just because some people find the
> neck hard to get used to (although I love it).
Oh yeah, if you use two different gauges, you're screwed.
The two high E strings are both 10s, so that's not the problem.
Anyway,...
I spent about an hour on the saddles, and giving the strings a little
bit of time to settle in, then back to the saddles again. Stretched all
the strings out really good. Now things seem a bit better. I think
what I had done is to put a little bit of a kink on one of the E strings
while I was stringing it up. As it sits longer, the two E strings seem
to be coming together at the high frets when they're in tune on the low
frets. Played around with some open and barred chords on the low frets,
did a final tuning to find the best compromise, and then....the ultimate
test....played a barred D chord up at the 10th fret. PERFECT!
I'll let these things settle in overnight and finish in the morning. By
the way, I love the feel of those Ric strings, much better than the
Pyramids. Of course it came with Ric strings but that was 20 years ago
and I haven't used them since. I had forgotten how good they were.
Re: Restringing/re-intonating the Ric 12 chapter 2
In article <PoaTj.1682$sp.803@trnddc02>, rpleavitt@yahoo,com says...
> tle4 <tle4@verizon,net > wrote:
> > I read a review on the ric 360/12 on zzounds and here is what was
> > said about stringing the guitar and intonation..
> >
> > Ease of Use:
> > It's incredibly easy to get great sounds from this product. The fifth
> > knob might confuse some newcomers to the Rick-Land, but reading the
> > manual (it is not that long, honestly!) will clear that up. The pots
> > are arranged a bit differently than on generic-brand guitars, but
> > they're easy to figure out, too, especially since they're labeled.
> > The neck is so much easier to get used to than everyone else seems to
> > think, and my hands are average sized, not tiny child hands. As I
> > mentioned before, the pickups have a very wide range and are easy to
> > find great sounds with. One thing, though, if you replace one of the
> > unison strings (a b or e) MAKE SURE THE OTHER STRING'S GAUGE MATCHES!
> > If you use a 9 and a 10 or something like that in one of the unison
> > pairs, it will throw off the intonation quite a bit up the neck, and
> > everything you play high up on the neck will sound like it is being
> > played through a Leslie. This is a downside of all 12s, though, so I
> > won't take off for it, and the intonation is perfect apart from that,
> > especially if you use the stock RIC strings. The action is nice, too.
> > Overall, this gets 9 here, too, just because some people find the
> > neck hard to get used to (although I love it).
>
> Oh yeah, if you use two different gauges, you're screwed.
>
> The two high E strings are both 10s, so that's not the problem.
> Anyway,...
>
> I spent about an hour on the saddles, and giving the strings a little
> bit of time to settle in, then back to the saddles again. Stretched all
> the strings out really good. Now things seem a bit better. I think
> what I had done is to put a little bit of a kink on one of the E strings
> while I was stringing it up. As it sits longer, the two E strings seem
> to be coming together at the high frets when they're in tune on the low
> frets. Played around with some open and barred chords on the low frets,
> did a final tuning to find the best compromise, and then....the ultimate
> test....played a barred D chord up at the 10th fret. PERFECT!
>
> I'll let these things settle in overnight and finish in the morning. By
> the way, I love the feel of those Ric strings, much better than the
> Pyramids. Of course it came with Ric strings but that was 20 years ago
> and I haven't used them since. I had forgotten how good they were.
>
>
One of the plain E's may have been binding in the nut, on the wood at
the edge of the headstock slot, or the coils around the tuner post might
have had some extra slop that stretched out, or?? You might want to let
things settle down a week or 2 before you really dial it in. The
twanginess of the wound strings will calm down and it will sound more
Ric like.
In article <PoaTj.1682$sp.803@trnddc02>, rpleavitt@yahoo,com says...
> tle4 <tle4@verizon,net > wrote:
> > I read a review on the ric 360/12 on zzounds and here is what was
> > said about stringing the guitar and intonation..
> >
> > Ease of Use:
> > It's incredibly easy to get great sounds from this product. The fifth
> > knob might confuse some newcomers to the Rick-Land, but reading the
> > manual (it is not that long, honestly!) will clear that up. The pots
> > are arranged a bit differently than on generic-brand guitars, but
> > they're easy to figure out, too, especially since they're labeled.
> > The neck is so much easier to get used to than everyone else seems to
> > think, and my hands are average sized, not tiny child hands. As I
> > mentioned before, the pickups have a very wide range and are easy to
> > find great sounds with. One thing, though, if you replace one of the
> > unison strings (a b or e) MAKE SURE THE OTHER STRING'S GAUGE MATCHES!
> > If you use a 9 and a 10 or something like that in one of the unison
> > pairs, it will throw off the intonation quite a bit up the neck, and
> > everything you play high up on the neck will sound like it is being
> > played through a Leslie. This is a downside of all 12s, though, so I
> > won't take off for it, and the intonation is perfect apart from that,
> > especially if you use the stock RIC strings. The action is nice, too.
> > Overall, this gets 9 here, too, just because some people find the
> > neck hard to get used to (although I love it).
>
> Oh yeah, if you use two different gauges, you're screwed.
>
> The two high E strings are both 10s, so that's not the problem.
> Anyway,...
>
> I spent about an hour on the saddles, and giving the strings a little
> bit of time to settle in, then back to the saddles again. Stretched all
> the strings out really good. Now things seem a bit better. I think
> what I had done is to put a little bit of a kink on one of the E strings
> while I was stringing it up. As it sits longer, the two E strings seem
> to be coming together at the high frets when they're in tune on the low
> frets. Played around with some open and barred chords on the low frets,
> did a final tuning to find the best compromise, and then....the ultimate
> test....played a barred D chord up at the 10th fret. PERFECT!
>
> I'll let these things settle in overnight and finish in the morning. By
> the way, I love the feel of those Ric strings, much better than the
> Pyramids. Of course it came with Ric strings but that was 20 years ago
> and I haven't used them since. I had forgotten how good they were.
>
>
One of the plain E's may have been binding in the nut, on the wood at
the edge of the headstock slot, or the coils around the tuner post might
have had some extra slop that stretched out, or?? You might want to let
things settle down a week or 2 before you really dial it in. The
twanginess of the wound strings will calm down and it will sound more
Ric like.
Re: Restringing/re-intonating the Ric 12 chapter 2
Wait 2 weeks to let the strings settle in? Thats ridiculous. Get a 12 saddle
bridge and stop fu---ng around with an inferior design. The guitar should
never have left the factory like that. It makes me wonder if Rickenbacker
even knows how to or cares about building a good 12 string guitar? An
electric 12 string without 12 saddles or an acoustic 12 string without a
compensated saddle are worthless. What good is a guitar that wont play in
tune?
"tle4" <tle4@verizon,net > wrote in message
news:r6aTj.2377$zw.767@trnddc04...
>I read a review on the ric 360/12 on zzounds and here is what was said
>about stringing the guitar and intonation..
>
> Ease of Use:
> It's incredibly easy to get great sounds from this product. The fifth knob
> might confuse some newcomers to the Rick-Land, but reading the manual (it
> is not that long, honestly!) will clear that up. The pots are arranged a
> bit differently than on generic-brand guitars, but they're easy to figure
> out, too, especially since they're labeled. The neck is so much easier to
> get used to than everyone else seems to think, and my hands are average
> sized, not tiny child hands. As I mentioned before, the pickups have a
> very wide range and are easy to find great sounds with. One thing, though,
> if you replace one of the unison strings (a b or e) MAKE SURE THE OTHER
> STRING'S GAUGE MATCHES! If you use a 9 and a 10 or something like that in
> one of the unison pairs, it will throw off the intonation quite a bit up
> the neck, and everything you play high up on the neck will sound like it
> is being played through a Leslie. This is a downside of all 12s, though,
> so I won't take off for it, and the intonation is perfect apart from that,
> especially if you use the stock RIC strings. The action is nice, too.
> Overall, this gets 9 here, too, just because some people find the neck
> hard to get used to (although I love it).
> "RichL" <rpleavitt@yahoo,com > wrote in message
> news:rY7Tj.674$Ve.77@trnddc08...
>> Project time again ;-)
>>
>> Some of you may remember my comments on intonating my Rickenbacker
>> 360/12 from a few months ago. I had originally strung it with a set of
>> Ernie Balls that had a plain G string, which led to a horrible problem
>> with intonation of the G pair. This guitar has only 6 saddles, one per
>> string pair, as does most Ric 12 string guitars.
>>
>> Anyway, I had at the time of the earlier post switched to a set of
>> Pyramid Golds, which is a flat-wound set that has a wound G string.
>> That set improved the intonation problem, although the low E pair was
>> off some. I liked the sound of the flat-wounds on that guitar, but I
>> hated the feel; it seemed like I had to press harder than normal to have
>> both strings of a pair make good contact with the frets.
>>
>> A few people suggested that I try the Rickenbacker strings, so I went
>> ahead and ordered a couple of sets online. I've been putting off
>> changing the strings until today, because it's a real chore. I started
>> at about 6:15 this evening, now it's 9:00 and I'm still not finished.
>> The strings are on and basically tuned up, but the intonation's all out
>> of whack. It'll probably take me another hour to get it all right, but
>> I gotta eat!
>>
>> Anyway, even though the absolute intonation isn't dialed in yet, I can
>> draw some conclusions by tuning at the third fret and checking where
>> things are at the 15th fret (not the absolute pitch, but how far the
>> strings of each pair are off from one another.
>>
>> Here's what I've concluded, tentatively:
>>
>> (1) I've still got a problem with the low E pair. Maybe not quite as
>> much as with the Pyramid set, but my ear can pick it up.
>>
>> (2) Even more annoying, given the claims of Rickenbacker's quality
>> control, the high E's are off. These are tuned in unison and use
>> presumably identical strings! Tune them so they match on the 3rd fret,
>> and at the 15th fret they're off by about 5 cents from one another.
>>
>> Doing the final tweaking on the saddle positions isn't likely to change
>> this.
>>
>> ARRRGGGHHHH!
>>
>> Time to bite the bullet and get the 12-saddle bridge, perhaps??
>>
>>
>
>
Wait 2 weeks to let the strings settle in? Thats ridiculous. Get a 12 saddle
bridge and stop fu---ng around with an inferior design. The guitar should
never have left the factory like that. It makes me wonder if Rickenbacker
even knows how to or cares about building a good 12 string guitar? An
electric 12 string without 12 saddles or an acoustic 12 string without a
compensated saddle are worthless. What good is a guitar that wont play in
tune?
"tle4" <tle4@verizon,net > wrote in message
news:r6aTj.2377$zw.767@trnddc04...
>I read a review on the ric 360/12 on zzounds and here is what was said
>about stringing the guitar and intonation..
>
> Ease of Use:
> It's incredibly easy to get great sounds from this product. The fifth knob
> might confuse some newcomers to the Rick-Land, but reading the manual (it
> is not that long, honestly!) will clear that up. The pots are arranged a
> bit differently than on generic-brand guitars, but they're easy to figure
> out, too, especially since they're labeled. The neck is so much easier to
> get used to than everyone else seems to think, and my hands are average
> sized, not tiny child hands. As I mentioned before, the pickups have a
> very wide range and are easy to find great sounds with. One thing, though,
> if you replace one of the unison strings (a b or e) MAKE SURE THE OTHER
> STRING'S GAUGE MATCHES! If you use a 9 and a 10 or something like that in
> one of the unison pairs, it will throw off the intonation quite a bit up
> the neck, and everything you play high up on the neck will sound like it
> is being played through a Leslie. This is a downside of all 12s, though,
> so I won't take off for it, and the intonation is perfect apart from that,
> especially if you use the stock RIC strings. The action is nice, too.
> Overall, this gets 9 here, too, just because some people find the neck
> hard to get used to (although I love it).
> "RichL" <rpleavitt@yahoo,com > wrote in message
> news:rY7Tj.674$Ve.77@trnddc08...
>> Project time again ;-)
>>
>> Some of you may remember my comments on intonating my Rickenbacker
>> 360/12 from a few months ago. I had originally strung it with a set of
>> Ernie Balls that had a plain G string, which led to a horrible problem
>> with intonation of the G pair. This guitar has only 6 saddles, one per
>> string pair, as does most Ric 12 string guitars.
>>
>> Anyway, I had at the time of the earlier post switched to a set of
>> Pyramid Golds, which is a flat-wound set that has a wound G string.
>> That set improved the intonation problem, although the low E pair was
>> off some. I liked the sound of the flat-wounds on that guitar, but I
>> hated the feel; it seemed like I had to press harder than normal to have
>> both strings of a pair make good contact with the frets.
>>
>> A few people suggested that I try the Rickenbacker strings, so I went
>> ahead and ordered a couple of sets online. I've been putting off
>> changing the strings until today, because it's a real chore. I started
>> at about 6:15 this evening, now it's 9:00 and I'm still not finished.
>> The strings are on and basically tuned up, but the intonation's all out
>> of whack. It'll probably take me another hour to get it all right, but
>> I gotta eat!
>>
>> Anyway, even though the absolute intonation isn't dialed in yet, I can
>> draw some conclusions by tuning at the third fret and checking where
>> things are at the 15th fret (not the absolute pitch, but how far the
>> strings of each pair are off from one another.
>>
>> Here's what I've concluded, tentatively:
>>
>> (1) I've still got a problem with the low E pair. Maybe not quite as
>> much as with the Pyramid set, but my ear can pick it up.
>>
>> (2) Even more annoying, given the claims of Rickenbacker's quality
>> control, the high E's are off. These are tuned in unison and use
>> presumably identical strings! Tune them so they match on the 3rd fret,
>> and at the 15th fret they're off by about 5 cents from one another.
>>
>> Doing the final tweaking on the saddle positions isn't likely to change
>> this.
>>
>> ARRRGGGHHHH!
>>
>> Time to bite the bullet and get the 12-saddle bridge, perhaps??
>>
>>
>
>
Re: Restringing/re-intonating the Ric 12 chapter 2
On Sun, 4 May 2008 12:21:01 -0700, "Keith Adams"
<keithadams@socal.rr,com > did courageously avow:
>Wait 2 weeks to let the strings settle in? Thats ridiculous. Get a 12 saddle
>bridge and stop fu---ng around with an inferior design. The guitar should
>never have left the factory like that. It makes me wonder if Rickenbacker
>even knows how to or cares about building a good 12 string guitar? An
>electric 12 string without 12 saddles or an acoustic 12 string without a
>compensated saddle are worthless. What good is a guitar that wont play in
>tune?
>
Brand new Rick 360/12s are going ~27K a pop. Do the math. I'm quite
sure Rickenbacker knows and cares. Worthless? I think not.
You are right though, for the $100, do the 12-saddle upgrade, or buy
the 381/12.
--
Ken Wilson
Amer. Dlx. Tele, Gary Moore LP, LP DC Classic w/P90s,
Jeff Beck Strat, Morgan OM Acoustic, Gibson CS-336,
Std. Strat (MIM), Mesa Lone Star Special,
Mesa F-30, Victoria 5112
"Goodnight Austin, Texas, wherever you are."
On Sun, 4 May 2008 12:21:01 -0700, "Keith Adams"
<keithadams@socal.rr,com > did courageously avow:
>Wait 2 weeks to let the strings settle in? Thats ridiculous. Get a 12 saddle
>bridge and stop fu---ng around with an inferior design. The guitar should
>never have left the factory like that. It makes me wonder if Rickenbacker
>even knows how to or cares about building a good 12 string guitar? An
>electric 12 string without 12 saddles or an acoustic 12 string without a
>compensated saddle are worthless. What good is a guitar that wont play in
>tune?
>
Brand new Rick 360/12s are going ~27K a pop. Do the math. I'm quite
sure Rickenbacker knows and cares. Worthless? I think not.
You are right though, for the $100, do the 12-saddle upgrade, or buy
the 381/12.
--
Ken Wilson
Amer. Dlx. Tele, Gary Moore LP, LP DC Classic w/P90s,
Jeff Beck Strat, Morgan OM Acoustic, Gibson CS-336,
Std. Strat (MIM), Mesa Lone Star Special,
Mesa F-30, Victoria 5112
"Goodnight Austin, Texas, wherever you are."
Re: Restringing/re-intonating the Ric 12 chapter 2
In article <481e0d2b$0$12942$4c368faf@roadrunner,com >,
keithadams@socal.rr,com says...
> Wait 2 weeks to let the strings settle in? Thats ridiculous. Get a 12 saddle
> bridge and stop fu---ng around with an inferior design. The guitar should
> never have left the factory like that. It makes me wonder if Rickenbacker
> even knows how to or cares about building a good 12 string guitar? An
> electric 12 string without 12 saddles or an acoustic 12 string without a
> compensated saddle are worthless. What good is a guitar that wont play in
> tune?
>
> "tle4" <tle4@verizon,net > wrote in message
>
Unless they're made of un-obtainium ALL strings will change slightly as
the metal stretches. Intonate any guitar with brand new strings and it
will be off in a couple of weeks. Change string type/gauge and the neck
may need an adjustment as it settles in as well. Unison strings
shouldn't need any compensation so something else is going on. The Ric
12 saddle bridge I tried uses steel saddles, the 6 saddle is aluminum
and there was a noticeable difference in sound similar to brass vs.
steel on a Tele. Been there, done that, and the 12 saddle is history.
Ric does offer both for anal types with strobe tuners in their head. ;)
In article <481e0d2b$0$12942$4c368faf@roadrunner,com >,
keithadams@socal.rr,com says...
> Wait 2 weeks to let the strings settle in? Thats ridiculous. Get a 12 saddle
> bridge and stop fu---ng around with an inferior design. The guitar should
> never have left the factory like that. It makes me wonder if Rickenbacker
> even knows how to or cares about building a good 12 string guitar? An
> electric 12 string without 12 saddles or an acoustic 12 string without a
> compensated saddle are worthless. What good is a guitar that wont play in
> tune?
>
> "tle4" <tle4@verizon,net > wrote in message
>
Unless they're made of un-obtainium ALL strings will change slightly as
the metal stretches. Intonate any guitar with brand new strings and it
will be off in a couple of weeks. Change string type/gauge and the neck
may need an adjustment as it settles in as well. Unison strings
shouldn't need any compensation so something else is going on. The Ric
12 saddle bridge I tried uses steel saddles, the 6 saddle is aluminum
and there was a noticeable difference in sound similar to brass vs.
steel on a Tele. Been there, done that, and the 12 saddle is history.
Ric does offer both for anal types with strobe tuners in their head. ;)
Re: Restringing/re-intonating the Ric 12 chapter 2
AJ <Sorry@nomail,com > wrote:
> In article <481e0d2b$0$12942$4c368faf@roadrunner,com >,
> keithadams@socal.rr,com says...
>> Wait 2 weeks to let the strings settle in? Thats ridiculous. Get a
>> 12 saddle bridge and stop fu---ng around with an inferior design.
>> The guitar should never have left the factory like that. It makes me
>> wonder if Rickenbacker even knows how to or cares about building a
>> good 12 string guitar? An electric 12 string without 12 saddles or
>> an acoustic 12 string without a compensated saddle are worthless.
>> What good is a guitar that wont play in tune?
>>
>> "tle4" <tle4@verizon,net > wrote in message
>>
> Unless they're made of un-obtainium ALL strings will change slightly
> as the metal stretches. Intonate any guitar with brand new strings
> and it will be off in a couple of weeks. Change string type/gauge and
> the neck may need an adjustment as it settles in as well. Unison
> strings shouldn't need any compensation so something else is going
> on. The Ric 12 saddle bridge I tried uses steel saddles, the 6 saddle
> is aluminum and there was a noticeable difference in sound similar to
> brass vs. steel on a Tele. Been there, done that, and the 12 saddle
> is history. Ric does offer both for anal types with strobe tuners in
> their head. ;)
I wonder why they don't make a steel version of the 12-saddle bridge!?
I suppose there are no third-party versions since Hall would have them
in court faster than you could say "patent infringement".
AJ <Sorry@nomail,com > wrote:
> In article <481e0d2b$0$12942$4c368faf@roadrunner,com >,
> keithadams@socal.rr,com says...
>> Wait 2 weeks to let the strings settle in? Thats ridiculous. Get a
>> 12 saddle bridge and stop fu---ng around with an inferior design.
>> The guitar should never have left the factory like that. It makes me
>> wonder if Rickenbacker even knows how to or cares about building a
>> good 12 string guitar? An electric 12 string without 12 saddles or
>> an acoustic 12 string without a compensated saddle are worthless.
>> What good is a guitar that wont play in tune?
>>
>> "tle4" <tle4@verizon,net > wrote in message
>>
> Unless they're made of un-obtainium ALL strings will change slightly
> as the metal stretches. Intonate any guitar with brand new strings
> and it will be off in a couple of weeks. Change string type/gauge and
> the neck may need an adjustment as it settles in as well. Unison
> strings shouldn't need any compensation so something else is going
> on. The Ric 12 saddle bridge I tried uses steel saddles, the 6 saddle
> is aluminum and there was a noticeable difference in sound similar to
> brass vs. steel on a Tele. Been there, done that, and the 12 saddle
> is history. Ric does offer both for anal types with strobe tuners in
> their head. ;)
I wonder why they don't make a steel version of the 12-saddle bridge!?
I suppose there are no third-party versions since Hall would have them
in court faster than you could say "patent infringement".
Re: Restringing/re-intonating the Ric 12 chapter 2
In article <YiFTj.5062$sp.4591@trnddc02>, rpleavitt@yahoo,com says...
> AJ <Sorry@nomail,com > wrote:
> > In article <481e0d2b$0$12942$4c368faf@roadrunner,com >,
> > keithadams@socal.rr,com says...
> >> Wait 2 weeks to let the strings settle in? Thats ridiculous. Get a
> >> 12 saddle bridge and stop fu---ng around with an inferior design.
> >> The guitar should never have left the factory like that. It makes me
> >> wonder if Rickenbacker even knows how to or cares about building a
> >> good 12 string guitar? An electric 12 string without 12 saddles or
> >> an acoustic 12 string without a compensated saddle are worthless.
> >> What good is a guitar that wont play in tune?
> >>
> >> "tle4" <tle4@verizon,net > wrote in message
> >>
> > Unless they're made of un-obtainium ALL strings will change slightly
> > as the metal stretches. Intonate any guitar with brand new strings
> > and it will be off in a couple of weeks. Change string type/gauge and
> > the neck may need an adjustment as it settles in as well. Unison
> > strings shouldn't need any compensation so something else is going
> > on. The Ric 12 saddle bridge I tried uses steel saddles, the 6 saddle
> > is aluminum and there was a noticeable difference in sound similar to
> > brass vs. steel on a Tele. Been there, done that, and the 12 saddle
> > is history. Ric does offer both for anal types with strobe tuners in
> > their head. ;)
>
> I wonder why they don't make a steel version of the 12-saddle bridge!?
> I suppose there are no third-party versions since Hall would have them
> in court faster than you could say "patent infringement".
>
>
You might search the Ric forum, but I believe JH once posted that the 12
saddle uses steel because of strength. It does have lots of small parts
and the intonation screws are much smaller in diameter. It's not that
hard to notch, you can probably find advice there as well. I started on
the outside strings and worked in from there with everything on the
guitar, filing the smallest notch that would hold just hold the strings
in position. That let me a move a few I didn't like. Later I filed the
notches deeper. Since a Ric is reverse-strung with the heavy string on
top, the height of the octave strings is less critical than a normal 12.
One thought on the unison E problem. Check that the ball end is fully
seated in the tailpiece. I used to occasionally get one that was barely
seated in there or would hang up on the ball of its twin, and wouldn't
stay in tune. I now change strings a pair at once to avoid that.
In article <YiFTj.5062$sp.4591@trnddc02>, rpleavitt@yahoo,com says...
> AJ <Sorry@nomail,com > wrote:
> > In article <481e0d2b$0$12942$4c368faf@roadrunner,com >,
> > keithadams@socal.rr,com says...
> >> Wait 2 weeks to let the strings settle in? Thats ridiculous. Get a
> >> 12 saddle bridge and stop fu---ng around with an inferior design.
> >> The guitar should never have left the factory like that. It makes me
> >> wonder if Rickenbacker even knows how to or cares about building a
> >> good 12 string guitar? An electric 12 string without 12 saddles or
> >> an acoustic 12 string without a compensated saddle are worthless.
> >> What good is a guitar that wont play in tune?
> >>
> >> "tle4" <tle4@verizon,net > wrote in message
> >>
> > Unless they're made of un-obtainium ALL strings will change slightly
> > as the metal stretches. Intonate any guitar with brand new strings
> > and it will be off in a couple of weeks. Change string type/gauge and
> > the neck may need an adjustment as it settles in as well. Unison
> > strings shouldn't need any compensation so something else is going
> > on. The Ric 12 saddle bridge I tried uses steel saddles, the 6 saddle
> > is aluminum and there was a noticeable difference in sound similar to
> > brass vs. steel on a Tele. Been there, done that, and the 12 saddle
> > is history. Ric does offer both for anal types with strobe tuners in
> > their head. ;)
>
> I wonder why they don't make a steel version of the 12-saddle bridge!?
> I suppose there are no third-party versions since Hall would have them
> in court faster than you could say "patent infringement".
>
>
You might search the Ric forum, but I believe JH once posted that the 12
saddle uses steel because of strength. It does have lots of small parts
and the intonation screws are much smaller in diameter. It's not that
hard to notch, you can probably find advice there as well. I started on
the outside strings and worked in from there with everything on the
guitar, filing the smallest notch that would hold just hold the strings
in position. That let me a move a few I didn't like. Later I filed the
notches deeper. Since a Ric is reverse-strung with the heavy string on
top, the height of the octave strings is less critical than a normal 12.
One thought on the unison E problem. Check that the ball end is fully
seated in the tailpiece. I used to occasionally get one that was barely
seated in there or would hang up on the ball of its twin, and wouldn't
stay in tune. I now change strings a pair at once to avoid that.
Re: Restringing/re-intonating the Ric 12 chapter 2
On Sun, 04 May 2008 01:04:23 GMT, "RichL" <rpleavitt@yahoo,com > did
courageously avow:
>Project time again ;-)
>
>Some of you may remember my comments on intonating my Rickenbacker
>360/12 from a few months ago. I had originally strung it with a set of
>Ernie Balls that had a plain G string, which led to a horrible problem
>with intonation of the G pair. This guitar has only 6 saddles, one per
>string pair, as does most Ric 12 string guitars.
>
>Anyway, I had at the time of the earlier post switched to a set of
>Pyramid Golds, which is a flat-wound set that has a wound G string.
>That set improved the intonation problem, although the low E pair was
>off some. I liked the sound of the flat-wounds on that guitar, but I
>hated the feel; it seemed like I had to press harder than normal to have
>both strings of a pair make good contact with the frets.
>
>A few people suggested that I try the Rickenbacker strings, so I went
>ahead and ordered a couple of sets online. I've been putting off
>changing the strings until today, because it's a real chore. I started
>at about 6:15 this evening, now it's 9:00 and I'm still not finished.
>The strings are on and basically tuned up, but the intonation's all out
>of whack. It'll probably take me another hour to get it all right, but
>I gotta eat!
>
>Anyway, even though the absolute intonation isn't dialed in yet, I can
>draw some conclusions by tuning at the third fret and checking where
>things are at the 15th fret (not the absolute pitch, but how far the
>strings of each pair are off from one another.
>
>Here's what I've concluded, tentatively:
>
>(1) I've still got a problem with the low E pair. Maybe not quite as
>much as with the Pyramid set, but my ear can pick it up.
>
>(2) Even more annoying, given the claims of Rickenbacker's quality
>control, the high E's are off. These are tuned in unison and use
>presumably identical strings! Tune them so they match on the 3rd fret,
>and at the 15th fret they're off by about 5 cents from one another.
>
>Doing the final tweaking on the saddle positions isn't likely to change
>this.
>
>ARRRGGGHHHH!
>
>Time to bite the bullet and get the 12-saddle bridge, perhaps??
>
For what it's worth, get the 12-saddle bridge. I just traded my
360/12 in, God rest her soul, but stringing and intonating it was
truly a labour of love.
--
Ken Wilson
Amer. Dlx. Tele, Gary Moore LP, LP DC Classic w/P90s,
Jeff Beck Strat, Morgan OM Acoustic, Gibson CS-336,
Std. Strat (MIM), Mesa Lone Star Special,
Mesa F-30, Victoria 5112
"Goodnight Austin, Texas, wherever you are."
On Sun, 04 May 2008 01:04:23 GMT, "RichL" <rpleavitt@yahoo,com > did
courageously avow:
>Project time again ;-)
>
>Some of you may remember my comments on intonating my Rickenbacker
>360/12 from a few months ago. I had originally strung it with a set of
>Ernie Balls that had a plain G string, which led to a horrible problem
>with intonation of the G pair. This guitar has only 6 saddles, one per
>string pair, as does most Ric 12 string guitars.
>
>Anyway, I had at the time of the earlier post switched to a set of
>Pyramid Golds, which is a flat-wound set that has a wound G string.
>That set improved the intonation problem, although the low E pair was
>off some. I liked the sound of the flat-wounds on that guitar, but I
>hated the feel; it seemed like I had to press harder than normal to have
>both strings of a pair make good contact with the frets.
>
>A few people suggested that I try the Rickenbacker strings, so I went
>ahead and ordered a couple of sets online. I've been putting off
>changing the strings until today, because it's a real chore. I started
>at about 6:15 this evening, now it's 9:00 and I'm still not finished.
>The strings are on and basically tuned up, but the intonation's all out
>of whack. It'll probably take me another hour to get it all right, but
>I gotta eat!
>
>Anyway, even though the absolute intonation isn't dialed in yet, I can
>draw some conclusions by tuning at the third fret and checking where
>things are at the 15th fret (not the absolute pitch, but how far the
>strings of each pair are off from one another.
>
>Here's what I've concluded, tentatively:
>
>(1) I've still got a problem with the low E pair. Maybe not quite as
>much as with the Pyramid set, but my ear can pick it up.
>
>(2) Even more annoying, given the claims of Rickenbacker's quality
>control, the high E's are off. These are tuned in unison and use
>presumably identical strings! Tune them so they match on the 3rd fret,
>and at the 15th fret they're off by about 5 cents from one another.
>
>Doing the final tweaking on the saddle positions isn't likely to change
>this.
>
>ARRRGGGHHHH!
>
>Time to bite the bullet and get the 12-saddle bridge, perhaps??
>
For what it's worth, get the 12-saddle bridge. I just traded my
360/12 in, God rest her soul, but stringing and intonating it was
truly a labour of love.
--
Ken Wilson
Amer. Dlx. Tele, Gary Moore LP, LP DC Classic w/P90s,
Jeff Beck Strat, Morgan OM Acoustic, Gibson CS-336,
Std. Strat (MIM), Mesa Lone Star Special,
Mesa F-30, Victoria 5112
"Goodnight Austin, Texas, wherever you are."
Re: Restringing/re-intonating the Ric 12 chapter 2
RichL,
If you have "perfect pitch" the guitar is a bad choice for a musical
instrument. You describe a situation where, on the high E unison set, there
is a 5 cent deviation. That's not an unacceptable tuning to the average set
of ears. I recall reading somewhere that the average person can't hear less
than an 8 cent difference in pitch..
So, does the pitch bother you audibly or only when you look at your
electronic tuner?
Have you gone up thre fret board and checked each fret for tuning? I'm
not sure that the expense of a new bridge will make your ears happy.
Dave M.
RichL,
If you have "perfect pitch" the guitar is a bad choice for a musical
instrument. You describe a situation where, on the high E unison set, there
is a 5 cent deviation. That's not an unacceptable tuning to the average set
of ears. I recall reading somewhere that the average person can't hear less
than an 8 cent difference in pitch..
So, does the pitch bother you audibly or only when you look at your
electronic tuner?
Have you gone up thre fret board and checked each fret for tuning? I'm
not sure that the expense of a new bridge will make your ears happy.
Dave M.
Re: Restringing/re-intonating the Ric 12 chapter 2
David L. Martel <marte005@earthlink,net > wrote:
> RichL,
>
> If you have "perfect pitch" the guitar is a bad choice for a
> musical instrument. You describe a situation where, on the high E
> unison set, there is a 5 cent deviation. That's not an unacceptable
> tuning to the average set of ears. I recall reading somewhere that
> the average person can't hear less than an 8 cent difference in
> pitch.. So, does the pitch bother you audibly or only when you
> look at your electronic tuner?
I can hear it, not only the beats when the two notes are played
together, but the pitch difference when each note is played separately.
Whether it "bothers" me is arguable. I understand that a slight
dissonance is part of this guitar's "charm". I was mainly commenting on
the quality-control issue that the deviation implies.
> Have you gone up thre fret board and checked each fret for tuning?
Not yet. I wanted things to settle in for a day or two and then
re-check intonation and correct if necessary, then do as you say. I
generally do this routinely when I put a new set of strings on a guitar.
Adjust intonation and tuning to achieve the best compromise I can after
checking each string on each fret.
> I'm not sure that the expense of a new bridge will make your ears
> happy.
Maybe not, but it might remove one source of frustration.
David L. Martel <marte005@earthlink,net > wrote:
> RichL,
>
> If you have "perfect pitch" the guitar is a bad choice for a
> musical instrument. You describe a situation where, on the high E
> unison set, there is a 5 cent deviation. That's not an unacceptable
> tuning to the average set of ears. I recall reading somewhere that
> the average person can't hear less than an 8 cent difference in
> pitch.. So, does the pitch bother you audibly or only when you
> look at your electronic tuner?
I can hear it, not only the beats when the two notes are played
together, but the pitch difference when each note is played separately.
Whether it "bothers" me is arguable. I understand that a slight
dissonance is part of this guitar's "charm". I was mainly commenting on
the quality-control issue that the deviation implies.
> Have you gone up thre fret board and checked each fret for tuning?
Not yet. I wanted things to settle in for a day or two and then
re-check intonation and correct if necessary, then do as you say. I
generally do this routinely when I put a new set of strings on a guitar.
Adjust intonation and tuning to achieve the best compromise I can after
checking each string on each fret.
> I'm not sure that the expense of a new bridge will make your ears
> happy.
Maybe not, but it might remove one source of frustration.
Re: Restringing/re-intonating the Ric 12 chapter 2
On 03 May 2008, "RichL" <rpleavitt@yahoo,com > wrote in alt.guitar:
> This guitar has only 6 saddles, one per string pair, as does most
> Ric 12 string guitars.
This is one thing that is a real advantage of my cheap Danelectro
12-String over the Rickenbacker - the bridge has 12 adjustable
saddle pieces. It can be intonated very well.
> Time to bite the bullet and get the 12-saddle bridge, perhaps??
Are they available for that guitar? If so, I would ASAP.
On 03 May 2008, "RichL" <rpleavitt@yahoo,com > wrote in alt.guitar:
> This guitar has only 6 saddles, one per string pair, as does most
> Ric 12 string guitars.
This is one thing that is a real advantage of my cheap Danelectro
12-String over the Rickenbacker - the bridge has 12 adjustable
saddle pieces. It can be intonated very well.
> Time to bite the bullet and get the 12-saddle bridge, perhaps??
Are they available for that guitar? If so, I would ASAP.
Re: Restringing/re-intonating the Ric 12 chapter 2
Nil <rednoise+news@REMOVETHIScomcast,net > wrote:
> On 03 May 2008, "RichL" <rpleavitt@yahoo,com > wrote in alt.guitar:
>
>> This guitar has only 6 saddles, one per string pair, as does most
>> Ric 12 string guitars.
>
> This is one thing that is a real advantage of my cheap Danelectro
> 12-String over the Rickenbacker - the bridge has 12 adjustable
> saddle pieces. It can be intonated very well.
>
>> Time to bite the bullet and get the 12-saddle bridge, perhaps??
>
> Are they available for that guitar? If so, I would ASAP.
Yeah Ric makes a 12-saddle that's a direct replacement. My only
hesitation is that it isn't pre-notched.
Nil <rednoise+news@REMOVETHIScomcast,net > wrote:
> On 03 May 2008, "RichL" <rpleavitt@yahoo,com > wrote in alt.guitar:
>
>> This guitar has only 6 saddles, one per string pair, as does most
>> Ric 12 string guitars.
>
> This is one thing that is a real advantage of my cheap Danelectro
> 12-String over the Rickenbacker - the bridge has 12 adjustable
> saddle pieces. It can be intonated very well.
>
>> Time to bite the bullet and get the 12-saddle bridge, perhaps??
>
> Are they available for that guitar? If so, I would ASAP.
Yeah Ric makes a 12-saddle that's a direct replacement. My only
hesitation is that it isn't pre-notched.
Re: Restringing/re-intonating the Ric 12 chapter 2
RichL <rpleavitt@yahoo,com > wrote:
> Nil <rednoise+news@REMOVETHIScomcast,net > wrote:
>> On 03 May 2008, "RichL" <rpleavitt@yahoo,com > wrote in alt.guitar:
>>
>>> This guitar has only 6 saddles, one per string pair, as does most
>>> Ric 12 string guitars.
>>
>> This is one thing that is a real advantage of my cheap Danelectro
>> 12-String over the Rickenbacker - the bridge has 12 adjustable
>> saddle pieces. It can be intonated very well.
>>
>>> Time to bite the bullet and get the 12-saddle bridge, perhaps??
>>
>> Are they available for that guitar? If so, I would ASAP.
>
> Yeah Ric makes a 12-saddle that's a direct replacement. My only
> hesitation is that it isn't pre-notched.
Also, I've heard comments that the 12-saddle bridge changes the tone of
the guitar. But I can always put the 6-saddle bridge back in if it
does.
RichL <rpleavitt@yahoo,com > wrote:
> Nil <rednoise+news@REMOVETHIScomcast,net > wrote:
>> On 03 May 2008, "RichL" <rpleavitt@yahoo,com > wrote in alt.guitar:
>>
>>> This guitar has only 6 saddles, one per string pair, as does most
>>> Ric 12 string guitars.
>>
>> This is one thing that is a real advantage of my cheap Danelectro
>> 12-String over the Rickenbacker - the bridge has 12 adjustable
>> saddle pieces. It can be intonated very well.
>>
>>> Time to bite the bullet and get the 12-saddle bridge, perhaps??
>>
>> Are they available for that guitar? If so, I would ASAP.
>
> Yeah Ric makes a 12-saddle that's a direct replacement. My only
> hesitation is that it isn't pre-notched.
Also, I've heard comments that the 12-saddle bridge changes the tone of
the guitar. But I can always put the 6-saddle bridge back in if it
does.
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