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Re-building a neck...
Re-building a neck...
Hello,
I've been discussing getting this new neck for my flying-V knockoff.
Now I've come up with this idea and I'd like any input from luthiers
here if it's a good idea at all. My luthier says he can do it, but
hasn't really done it before. At any rate it'll be much cheaper than a
whole neck...
See, I like the neck quite fine now that I've shaped it to suit my
hand, the trussrod works OK and the only problems with it are I'd like
a maple fretboard, it definitely needs all new frets AND it is a bit
too 'flexy' overall...I'd like to make it a tad more rigid. I love to
play it even with the problems it has now, though. Just could be even
better.
What I proposed he'd do is remove the fretboard and install a figured
maple one with semi-jumbo frets and then re-finish the whole neck
properly. He says a new maple fretboard alone should make the neck a
little more rigid, but there is also a possibility of routing some
grooves under the fretboard and install e.g. carbon fibre rods to make
it really rock solid. I already ordered some birdseye maple fretboard
blanks, so he could use one of those.
What do you think of the idea? Is it insane? I think I could have that
done for under half of what I'd pay for the whole custom neck, which
is of course quite tempting...he's just re-finished the Charvette neck
for me, getting it back today with proper sanding/laquer job instead
of the crap job I did.
Cheers,
Dee
Hello,
I've been discussing getting this new neck for my flying-V knockoff.
Now I've come up with this idea and I'd like any input from luthiers
here if it's a good idea at all. My luthier says he can do it, but
hasn't really done it before. At any rate it'll be much cheaper than a
whole neck...
See, I like the neck quite fine now that I've shaped it to suit my
hand, the trussrod works OK and the only problems with it are I'd like
a maple fretboard, it definitely needs all new frets AND it is a bit
too 'flexy' overall...I'd like to make it a tad more rigid. I love to
play it even with the problems it has now, though. Just could be even
better.
What I proposed he'd do is remove the fretboard and install a figured
maple one with semi-jumbo frets and then re-finish the whole neck
properly. He says a new maple fretboard alone should make the neck a
little more rigid, but there is also a possibility of routing some
grooves under the fretboard and install e.g. carbon fibre rods to make
it really rock solid. I already ordered some birdseye maple fretboard
blanks, so he could use one of those.
What do you think of the idea? Is it insane? I think I could have that
done for under half of what I'd pay for the whole custom neck, which
is of course quite tempting...he's just re-finished the Charvette neck
for me, getting it back today with proper sanding/laquer job instead
of the crap job I did.
Cheers,
Dee
Re: Re-building a neck...
It seems to me like building a new neck would be easier than replacing a
fret board. To make the neck more rigid you'd need to use a thicker finger
board than whats on it now and then there goes your necks profile. Buying a
pre slotted maple finger board and gluing it to a new neck thats routed out
for your chosen truss rods seems like the way to go to me. I think that I
would have him put in some contrasting wood strips for strength and good
looks. I'd also use a three on a side, angled( 16 degrees or there abouts)
peg head. You dont need string trees and the added down force due to the
sharper break angle of the strings over the nut helps sustain and tone.
Believe me. Break angle is a significant factor in building a good sounding
guitar. Since the neck is what makes a great guitar. And you already like
your guitar. You might as well do it right.
"DeeAa" <deeaa@dnainternet,net > wrote in message
news:9d417d65-5652-42b8-af86-24b13c0dc308@d45g2000hsc.googlegroups,com ...
> Hello,
>
> I've been discussing getting this new neck for my flying-V knockoff.
> Now I've come up with this idea and I'd like any input from luthiers
> here if it's a good idea at all. My luthier says he can do it, but
> hasn't really done it before. At any rate it'll be much cheaper than a
> whole neck...
>
> See, I like the neck quite fine now that I've shaped it to suit my
> hand, the trussrod works OK and the only problems with it are I'd like
> a maple fretboard, it definitely needs all new frets AND it is a bit
> too 'flexy' overall...I'd like to make it a tad more rigid. I love to
> play it even with the problems it has now, though. Just could be even
> better.
>
> What I proposed he'd do is remove the fretboard and install a figured
> maple one with semi-jumbo frets and then re-finish the whole neck
> properly. He says a new maple fretboard alone should make the neck a
> little more rigid, but there is also a possibility of routing some
> grooves under the fretboard and install e.g. carbon fibre rods to make
> it really rock solid. I already ordered some birdseye maple fretboard
> blanks, so he could use one of those.
>
> What do you think of the idea? Is it insane? I think I could have that
> done for under half of what I'd pay for the whole custom neck, which
> is of course quite tempting...he's just re-finished the Charvette neck
> for me, getting it back today with proper sanding/laquer job instead
> of the crap job I did.
>
> Cheers,
>
> Dee
It seems to me like building a new neck would be easier than replacing a
fret board. To make the neck more rigid you'd need to use a thicker finger
board than whats on it now and then there goes your necks profile. Buying a
pre slotted maple finger board and gluing it to a new neck thats routed out
for your chosen truss rods seems like the way to go to me. I think that I
would have him put in some contrasting wood strips for strength and good
looks. I'd also use a three on a side, angled( 16 degrees or there abouts)
peg head. You dont need string trees and the added down force due to the
sharper break angle of the strings over the nut helps sustain and tone.
Believe me. Break angle is a significant factor in building a good sounding
guitar. Since the neck is what makes a great guitar. And you already like
your guitar. You might as well do it right.
"DeeAa" <deeaa@dnainternet,net > wrote in message
news:9d417d65-5652-42b8-af86-24b13c0dc308@d45g2000hsc.googlegroups,com ...
> Hello,
>
> I've been discussing getting this new neck for my flying-V knockoff.
> Now I've come up with this idea and I'd like any input from luthiers
> here if it's a good idea at all. My luthier says he can do it, but
> hasn't really done it before. At any rate it'll be much cheaper than a
> whole neck...
>
> See, I like the neck quite fine now that I've shaped it to suit my
> hand, the trussrod works OK and the only problems with it are I'd like
> a maple fretboard, it definitely needs all new frets AND it is a bit
> too 'flexy' overall...I'd like to make it a tad more rigid. I love to
> play it even with the problems it has now, though. Just could be even
> better.
>
> What I proposed he'd do is remove the fretboard and install a figured
> maple one with semi-jumbo frets and then re-finish the whole neck
> properly. He says a new maple fretboard alone should make the neck a
> little more rigid, but there is also a possibility of routing some
> grooves under the fretboard and install e.g. carbon fibre rods to make
> it really rock solid. I already ordered some birdseye maple fretboard
> blanks, so he could use one of those.
>
> What do you think of the idea? Is it insane? I think I could have that
> done for under half of what I'd pay for the whole custom neck, which
> is of course quite tempting...he's just re-finished the Charvette neck
> for me, getting it back today with proper sanding/laquer job instead
> of the crap job I did.
>
> Cheers,
>
> Dee
Re: Re-building a neck...
On 5 touko, 11:55, "Keith Adams" <keithad...@socal.rr,com > wrote:
> It seems to me like building a new neck would be easier than replacing a
> fret board. To make the neck more rigid you'd need to use a thicker finger
> board than whats on it now and then there goes your necks profile. Buying a
I figured maple is more rigid even at the same thickness, plus
underneath a carbon rod would help as well.
> pre slotted maple finger board and gluing it to a new neck thats routed out
> for your chosen truss rods seems like the way to go to me. I think that I
He does the slots and the board anyway...I figured it'd save a lot of
work and materials if he just makes a new fretboard.
> looks. I'd also use a three on a side, angled( 16 degrees or there abouts)
> peg head. You dont need string trees and the added down force due to the
That's what it is now, on a V. 3 per side, angled.
> sharper break angle of the strings over the nut helps sustain and tone.
> Believe me. Break angle is a significant factor in building a good sounding
> guitar. Since the neck is what makes a great guitar. And you already like
> your guitar. You might as well do it right.
>
Yep, the neck is good as it is...but better.
Money is the factor, and time too. Getting all new woods, glueing and
cutting/shaping a whole neck takes a good while.
I already have the fretboard wood so all that is needed is glue it on,
do the curvature and shaping and slot & fret it, so it'd be much much
cheaper, even if he put in some carbon struts.
Cheers,
Dee
On 5 touko, 11:55, "Keith Adams" <keithad...@socal.rr,com > wrote:
> It seems to me like building a new neck would be easier than replacing a
> fret board. To make the neck more rigid you'd need to use a thicker finger
> board than whats on it now and then there goes your necks profile. Buying a
I figured maple is more rigid even at the same thickness, plus
underneath a carbon rod would help as well.
> pre slotted maple finger board and gluing it to a new neck thats routed out
> for your chosen truss rods seems like the way to go to me. I think that I
He does the slots and the board anyway...I figured it'd save a lot of
work and materials if he just makes a new fretboard.
> looks. I'd also use a three on a side, angled( 16 degrees or there abouts)
> peg head. You dont need string trees and the added down force due to the
That's what it is now, on a V. 3 per side, angled.
> sharper break angle of the strings over the nut helps sustain and tone.
> Believe me. Break angle is a significant factor in building a good sounding
> guitar. Since the neck is what makes a great guitar. And you already like
> your guitar. You might as well do it right.
>
Yep, the neck is good as it is...but better.
Money is the factor, and time too. Getting all new woods, glueing and
cutting/shaping a whole neck takes a good while.
I already have the fretboard wood so all that is needed is glue it on,
do the curvature and shaping and slot & fret it, so it'd be much much
cheaper, even if he put in some carbon struts.
Cheers,
Dee
Re: Re-building a neck...
Shaping a neck is easy as pie. If they're not at least equal I'd give the
advantage to rosewood or ebony to be stiffer than maple. Whichever way you
go I'd imagine that it will turn out fine.
"DeeAa" <deeaa@dnainternet,net > wrote in message
news:d342d662-2df1-4657-a9f4-ec1f45175b91@c58g2000hsc.googlegroups,com ...
On 5 touko, 11:55, "Keith Adams" <keithad...@socal.rr,com > wrote:
> It seems to me like building a new neck would be easier than replacing a
> fret board. To make the neck more rigid you'd need to use a thicker finger
> board than whats on it now and then there goes your necks profile. Buying
> a
I figured maple is more rigid even at the same thickness, plus
underneath a carbon rod would help as well.
> pre slotted maple finger board and gluing it to a new neck thats routed
> out
> for your chosen truss rods seems like the way to go to me. I think that I
He does the slots and the board anyway...I figured it'd save a lot of
work and materials if he just makes a new fretboard.
> looks. I'd also use a three on a side, angled( 16 degrees or there abouts)
> peg head. You dont need string trees and the added down force due to the
That's what it is now, on a V. 3 per side, angled.
> sharper break angle of the strings over the nut helps sustain and tone.
> Believe me. Break angle is a significant factor in building a good
> sounding
> guitar. Since the neck is what makes a great guitar. And you already like
> your guitar. You might as well do it right.
>
Yep, the neck is good as it is...but better.
Money is the factor, and time too. Getting all new woods, glueing and
cutting/shaping a whole neck takes a good while.
I already have the fretboard wood so all that is needed is glue it on,
do the curvature and shaping and slot & fret it, so it'd be much much
cheaper, even if he put in some carbon struts.
Cheers,
Dee
Shaping a neck is easy as pie. If they're not at least equal I'd give the
advantage to rosewood or ebony to be stiffer than maple. Whichever way you
go I'd imagine that it will turn out fine.
"DeeAa" <deeaa@dnainternet,net > wrote in message
news:d342d662-2df1-4657-a9f4-ec1f45175b91@c58g2000hsc.googlegroups,com ...
On 5 touko, 11:55, "Keith Adams" <keithad...@socal.rr,com > wrote:
> It seems to me like building a new neck would be easier than replacing a
> fret board. To make the neck more rigid you'd need to use a thicker finger
> board than whats on it now and then there goes your necks profile. Buying
> a
I figured maple is more rigid even at the same thickness, plus
underneath a carbon rod would help as well.
> pre slotted maple finger board and gluing it to a new neck thats routed
> out
> for your chosen truss rods seems like the way to go to me. I think that I
He does the slots and the board anyway...I figured it'd save a lot of
work and materials if he just makes a new fretboard.
> looks. I'd also use a three on a side, angled( 16 degrees or there abouts)
> peg head. You dont need string trees and the added down force due to the
That's what it is now, on a V. 3 per side, angled.
> sharper break angle of the strings over the nut helps sustain and tone.
> Believe me. Break angle is a significant factor in building a good
> sounding
> guitar. Since the neck is what makes a great guitar. And you already like
> your guitar. You might as well do it right.
>
Yep, the neck is good as it is...but better.
Money is the factor, and time too. Getting all new woods, glueing and
cutting/shaping a whole neck takes a good while.
I already have the fretboard wood so all that is needed is glue it on,
do the curvature and shaping and slot & fret it, so it'd be much much
cheaper, even if he put in some carbon struts.
Cheers,
Dee
Re: Re-building a neck...
On May 5, 3:01 am, DeeAa <de...@dnainternet,net > wrote:
> Hello,
>
> I've been discussing getting this new neck for my flying-V knockoff.
> Now I've come up with this idea and I'd like any input from luthiers
> here if it's a good idea at all. My luthier says he can do it, but
> hasn't really done it before. At any rate it'll be much cheaper than a
> whole neck...
>
> See, I like the neck quite fine now that I've shaped it to suit my
> hand, the trussrod works OK and the only problems with it are I'd like
> a maple fretboard, it definitely needs all new frets AND it is a bit
> too 'flexy' overall...I'd like to make it a tad more rigid. I love to
> play it even with the problems it has now, though. Just could be even
> better.
>
> What I proposed he'd do is remove the fretboard and install a figured
> maple one with semi-jumbo frets and then re-finish the whole neck
> properly. He says a new maple fretboard alone should make the neck a
> little more rigid, but there is also a possibility of routing some
> grooves under the fretboard and install e.g. carbon fibre rods to make
> it really rock solid. I already ordered some birdseye maple fretboard
> blanks, so he could use one of those.
>
> What do you think of the idea? Is it insane? I think I could have that
> done for under half of what I'd pay for the whole custom neck, which
> is of course quite tempting...he's just re-finished the Charvette neck
> for me, getting it back today with proper sanding/laquer job instead
> of the crap job I did.
>
> Cheers,
>
> Dee
Dee,
I'm not a luthier, but I'd be careful which species of maple you end
up with...some of the softer stuff is about as dense as mahogany, not
really suitable for fingerboards (even if it looks pretty...but if you
have some dedicated maple fingerboard blanks, no doubt they"ll be hard
enough. I like the carbon fiber idea and have used these to
reinforcement some damaged necks in the past ( http ://
www .dragonplate,com /ecart/categories.asp?cID=20). A .200 strip on
either side of the rod does wonders. Be careful cutting this
stuff...use a hacksaw rather than a power tool..,it can shred and the
dust is like tiny particles of brittle glass so you really want to
control it.
Regards, CS
On May 5, 3:01 am, DeeAa <de...@dnainternet,net > wrote:
> Hello,
>
> I've been discussing getting this new neck for my flying-V knockoff.
> Now I've come up with this idea and I'd like any input from luthiers
> here if it's a good idea at all. My luthier says he can do it, but
> hasn't really done it before. At any rate it'll be much cheaper than a
> whole neck...
>
> See, I like the neck quite fine now that I've shaped it to suit my
> hand, the trussrod works OK and the only problems with it are I'd like
> a maple fretboard, it definitely needs all new frets AND it is a bit
> too 'flexy' overall...I'd like to make it a tad more rigid. I love to
> play it even with the problems it has now, though. Just could be even
> better.
>
> What I proposed he'd do is remove the fretboard and install a figured
> maple one with semi-jumbo frets and then re-finish the whole neck
> properly. He says a new maple fretboard alone should make the neck a
> little more rigid, but there is also a possibility of routing some
> grooves under the fretboard and install e.g. carbon fibre rods to make
> it really rock solid. I already ordered some birdseye maple fretboard
> blanks, so he could use one of those.
>
> What do you think of the idea? Is it insane? I think I could have that
> done for under half of what I'd pay for the whole custom neck, which
> is of course quite tempting...he's just re-finished the Charvette neck
> for me, getting it back today with proper sanding/laquer job instead
> of the crap job I did.
>
> Cheers,
>
> Dee
Dee,
I'm not a luthier, but I'd be careful which species of maple you end
up with...some of the softer stuff is about as dense as mahogany, not
really suitable for fingerboards (even if it looks pretty...but if you
have some dedicated maple fingerboard blanks, no doubt they"ll be hard
enough. I like the carbon fiber idea and have used these to
reinforcement some damaged necks in the past ( http ://
www .dragonplate,com /ecart/categories.asp?cID=20). A .200 strip on
either side of the rod does wonders. Be careful cutting this
stuff...use a hacksaw rather than a power tool..,it can shred and the
dust is like tiny particles of brittle glass so you really want to
control it.
Regards, CS
Re: Re-building a neck...
On 5 touko, 14:56, Cyberserf <cybrs...@sympatico.ca> wrote:
> I'm not a luthier, but I'd be careful which species of maple you end
> up with...some of the softer stuff is about as dense as mahogany, not
> really suitable for fingerboards (even if it looks pretty...but if you
> have some dedicated maple fingerboard blanks, no doubt they"ll be hard
> enough. I like the carbon fiber idea and have used these to
> reinforcement some damaged necks in the past ( http :// www .dragonplate,com /ecart/categories.asp?cID=20). A .200 strip on
> either side of the rod does wonders. Be careful cutting this
> stuff...use a hacksaw rather than a power tool..,it can shred and the
> dust is like tiny particles of brittle glass so you really want to
> control it.
>
Thanks...yep that is exactly the kind of stuff I'd need. I'll have to
look around locally where to get some. The maple slabs I have on order
are indeed meant as fingerboard blanks...if I get them OK. We'll see.
If there are problems I'll have to get some from the luthier's
suppliers.
Cheers,
Dee
On 5 touko, 14:56, Cyberserf <cybrs...@sympatico.ca> wrote:
> I'm not a luthier, but I'd be careful which species of maple you end
> up with...some of the softer stuff is about as dense as mahogany, not
> really suitable for fingerboards (even if it looks pretty...but if you
> have some dedicated maple fingerboard blanks, no doubt they"ll be hard
> enough. I like the carbon fiber idea and have used these to
> reinforcement some damaged necks in the past ( http :// www .dragonplate,com /ecart/categories.asp?cID=20). A .200 strip on
> either side of the rod does wonders. Be careful cutting this
> stuff...use a hacksaw rather than a power tool..,it can shred and the
> dust is like tiny particles of brittle glass so you really want to
> control it.
>
Thanks...yep that is exactly the kind of stuff I'd need. I'll have to
look around locally where to get some. The maple slabs I have on order
are indeed meant as fingerboard blanks...if I get them OK. We'll see.
If there are problems I'll have to get some from the luthier's
suppliers.
Cheers,
Dee
Re: Re-building a neck...
"DeeAa" <deeaa@dnainternet,net > wrote in message
news:9d417d65-5652-42b8-af86-24b13c0dc308@d45g2000hsc.googlegroups,com ...
> Hello,
>
> I've been discussing getting this new neck for my flying-V knockoff.
> Now I've come up with this idea and I'd like any input from luthiers
> here if it's a good idea at all. My luthier says he can do it, but
> hasn't really done it before. At any rate it'll be much cheaper than a
> whole neck...
>
> See, I like the neck quite fine now that I've shaped it to suit my
> hand, the trussrod works OK and the only problems with it are I'd like
> a maple fretboard, it definitely needs all new frets AND it is a bit
> too 'flexy' overall...I'd like to make it a tad more rigid. I love to
> play it even with the problems it has now, though. Just could be even
> better.
>
> What I proposed he'd do is remove the fretboard and install a figured
> maple one with semi-jumbo frets and then re-finish the whole neck
> properly. He says a new maple fretboard alone should make the neck a
> little more rigid, but there is also a possibility of routing some
> grooves under the fretboard and install e.g. carbon fibre rods to make
> it really rock solid. I already ordered some birdseye maple fretboard
> blanks, so he could use one of those.
>
> What do you think of the idea? Is it insane? I think I could have that
> done for under half of what I'd pay for the whole custom neck, which
> is of course quite tempting...he's just re-finished the Charvette neck
> for me, getting it back today with proper sanding/laquer job instead
> of the crap job I did.
>
> Cheers,
>
> Dee
If you think a piece of 1/4" maple with a 22 1/8" frets slots is going
to make the neck stiffer I would rethink it. It sounds like the neck just a
poor design. I would consider having a whole new neck being made. But not
seeing the guitar. most those flying V's look like the neck to body joint
would be a weak spot That might be the problem. Like I say it's hard to
give advice without seeing it. How much is he going to charge ?
"DeeAa" <deeaa@dnainternet,net > wrote in message
news:9d417d65-5652-42b8-af86-24b13c0dc308@d45g2000hsc.googlegroups,com ...
> Hello,
>
> I've been discussing getting this new neck for my flying-V knockoff.
> Now I've come up with this idea and I'd like any input from luthiers
> here if it's a good idea at all. My luthier says he can do it, but
> hasn't really done it before. At any rate it'll be much cheaper than a
> whole neck...
>
> See, I like the neck quite fine now that I've shaped it to suit my
> hand, the trussrod works OK and the only problems with it are I'd like
> a maple fretboard, it definitely needs all new frets AND it is a bit
> too 'flexy' overall...I'd like to make it a tad more rigid. I love to
> play it even with the problems it has now, though. Just could be even
> better.
>
> What I proposed he'd do is remove the fretboard and install a figured
> maple one with semi-jumbo frets and then re-finish the whole neck
> properly. He says a new maple fretboard alone should make the neck a
> little more rigid, but there is also a possibility of routing some
> grooves under the fretboard and install e.g. carbon fibre rods to make
> it really rock solid. I already ordered some birdseye maple fretboard
> blanks, so he could use one of those.
>
> What do you think of the idea? Is it insane? I think I could have that
> done for under half of what I'd pay for the whole custom neck, which
> is of course quite tempting...he's just re-finished the Charvette neck
> for me, getting it back today with proper sanding/laquer job instead
> of the crap job I did.
>
> Cheers,
>
> Dee
If you think a piece of 1/4" maple with a 22 1/8" frets slots is going
to make the neck stiffer I would rethink it. It sounds like the neck just a
poor design. I would consider having a whole new neck being made. But not
seeing the guitar. most those flying V's look like the neck to body joint
would be a weak spot That might be the problem. Like I say it's hard to
give advice without seeing it. How much is he going to charge ?
Re: Re-building a neck...
On 5 touko, 15:41, "Sac Dave" <diac...@sbcglobal,net > wrote:
> If you think a piece of 1/4" maple with a 22 1/8" frets slots is going
> to make the neck stiffer I would rethink it. It sounds like the neck just a
> poor design. I would consider having a whole new neck being made. But not
Well, I'm not counting on the maple to really stiffen it up that much,
but at least it should be a little stiffer than the soft 'rosewood'
there is now..,it seems very soft and it's also not that dark...mainly
I was relying on adding those carbon strips for that purpose.
It's not that it's flexy as hell...probably pretty much the same as
most average guitars are, but my other axes are so rock solid when it
comes to neck - you really can't much bend 'em manually like you can
do 'vibrato' on some axes, but this one does flex more noticeably. I
like an axe I can grab by the neck and shake it about and not feel it
flexing at all. The flexing isn't the biggest issue with it, though,
it's the crappy frets and crappy fingerboard.
> seeing the guitar. most those flying V's look like the neck to body joint
> would be a weak spot That might be the problem. Like I say it's hard to
> give advice without seeing it. How much is he going to charge ?
>
It's a bolt-on, not like on Gibsons...pretty much like on a normal
strat in that respect.
He'd charge me about 250€ for the whole neck, and less than half that
for the 'upgrade' option. Maybe ~200 bucks or so.
Here are some pics on the axe itself:
http :// deeaa.pp.fi/vee/vee
So as you see I've already modded the neck pretty heavily.
Cheers,
Dee
On 5 touko, 15:41, "Sac Dave" <diac...@sbcglobal,net > wrote:
> If you think a piece of 1/4" maple with a 22 1/8" frets slots is going
> to make the neck stiffer I would rethink it. It sounds like the neck just a
> poor design. I would consider having a whole new neck being made. But not
Well, I'm not counting on the maple to really stiffen it up that much,
but at least it should be a little stiffer than the soft 'rosewood'
there is now..,it seems very soft and it's also not that dark...mainly
I was relying on adding those carbon strips for that purpose.
It's not that it's flexy as hell...probably pretty much the same as
most average guitars are, but my other axes are so rock solid when it
comes to neck - you really can't much bend 'em manually like you can
do 'vibrato' on some axes, but this one does flex more noticeably. I
like an axe I can grab by the neck and shake it about and not feel it
flexing at all. The flexing isn't the biggest issue with it, though,
it's the crappy frets and crappy fingerboard.
> seeing the guitar. most those flying V's look like the neck to body joint
> would be a weak spot That might be the problem. Like I say it's hard to
> give advice without seeing it. How much is he going to charge ?
>
It's a bolt-on, not like on Gibsons...pretty much like on a normal
strat in that respect.
He'd charge me about 250€ for the whole neck, and less than half that
for the 'upgrade' option. Maybe ~200 bucks or so.
Here are some pics on the axe itself:
http :// deeaa.pp.fi/vee/vee
So as you see I've already modded the neck pretty heavily.
Cheers,
Dee
Re: Re-building a neck...
"DeeAa" <deeaa@dnainternet,net > wrote in message
news:9ba3c557-66ab-462a-97f0-c76104797105@m45g2000hsb.googlegroups,com ...
On 5 touko, 15:41, "Sac Dave" <diac...@sbcglobal,net > wrote:
> If you think a piece of 1/4" maple with a 22 1/8" frets slots is going
> to make the neck stiffer I would rethink it. It sounds like the neck just
> a
> poor design. I would consider having a whole new neck being made. But not
Well, I'm not counting on the maple to really stiffen it up that much,
but at least it should be a little stiffer than the soft 'rosewood'
there is now..,it seems very soft and it's also not that dark...mainly
I was relying on adding those carbon strips for that purpose.
It's not that it's flexy as hell...probably pretty much the same as
most average guitars are, but my other axes are so rock solid when it
comes to neck - you really can't much bend 'em manually like you can
do 'vibrato' on some axes, but this one does flex more noticeably. I
like an axe I can grab by the neck and shake it about and not feel it
flexing at all. The flexing isn't the biggest issue with it, though,
it's the crappy frets and crappy fingerboard.
> seeing the guitar. most those flying V's look like the neck to body joint
> would be a weak spot That might be the problem. Like I say it's hard to
> give advice without seeing it. How much is he going to charge ?
>
It's a bolt-on, not like on Gibsons...pretty much like on a normal
strat in that respect.
He'd charge me about 250€ for the whole neck, and less than half that
for the 'upgrade' option. Maybe ~200 bucks or so.
Here are some pics on the axe itself:
http :// deeaa.pp.fi/vee/vee
So as you see I've already modded the neck pretty heavily.
Cheers,
Dee
Looking I think something must be wrong with the neck. crapy truss rod. It's
a bolt on neck I would go for a new neck And just to be safe I would
considers a new Amp to go with the neck just in case the new neck doesn't
work out You will still have a new amp to play with.
"DeeAa" <deeaa@dnainternet,net > wrote in message
news:9ba3c557-66ab-462a-97f0-c76104797105@m45g2000hsb.googlegroups,com ...
On 5 touko, 15:41, "Sac Dave" <diac...@sbcglobal,net > wrote:
> If you think a piece of 1/4" maple with a 22 1/8" frets slots is going
> to make the neck stiffer I would rethink it. It sounds like the neck just
> a
> poor design. I would consider having a whole new neck being made. But not
Well, I'm not counting on the maple to really stiffen it up that much,
but at least it should be a little stiffer than the soft 'rosewood'
there is now..,it seems very soft and it's also not that dark...mainly
I was relying on adding those carbon strips for that purpose.
It's not that it's flexy as hell...probably pretty much the same as
most average guitars are, but my other axes are so rock solid when it
comes to neck - you really can't much bend 'em manually like you can
do 'vibrato' on some axes, but this one does flex more noticeably. I
like an axe I can grab by the neck and shake it about and not feel it
flexing at all. The flexing isn't the biggest issue with it, though,
it's the crappy frets and crappy fingerboard.
> seeing the guitar. most those flying V's look like the neck to body joint
> would be a weak spot That might be the problem. Like I say it's hard to
> give advice without seeing it. How much is he going to charge ?
>
It's a bolt-on, not like on Gibsons...pretty much like on a normal
strat in that respect.
He'd charge me about 250€ for the whole neck, and less than half that
for the 'upgrade' option. Maybe ~200 bucks or so.
Here are some pics on the axe itself:
http :// deeaa.pp.fi/vee/vee
So as you see I've already modded the neck pretty heavily.
Cheers,
Dee
Looking I think something must be wrong with the neck. crapy truss rod. It's
a bolt on neck I would go for a new neck And just to be safe I would
considers a new Amp to go with the neck just in case the new neck doesn't
work out You will still have a new amp to play with.
Re: Re-building a neck...
On Mon, 5 May 2008 01:01:25 -0700 (PDT), DeeAa <deeaa@dnainternet,net >
wrote:
>Hello,
>
>I've been discussing getting this new neck for my flying-V knockoff.
>Now I've come up with this idea and I'd like any input from luthiers
>here if it's a good idea at all. My luthier says he can do it, but
>hasn't really done it before. At any rate it'll be much cheaper than a
>whole neck...
>
>See, I like the neck quite fine now that I've shaped it to suit my
>hand, the trussrod works OK and the only problems with it are I'd like
>a maple fretboard, it definitely needs all new frets AND it is a bit
>too 'flexy' overall...I'd like to make it a tad more rigid. I love to
>play it even with the problems it has now, though. Just could be even
>better.
>
>What I proposed he'd do is remove the fretboard and install a figured
>maple one with semi-jumbo frets and then re-finish the whole neck
>properly. He says a new maple fretboard alone should make the neck a
>little more rigid, but there is also a possibility of routing some
>grooves under the fretboard and install e.g. carbon fibre rods to make
>it really rock solid. I already ordered some birdseye maple fretboard
>blanks, so he could use one of those.
>
>What do you think of the idea? Is it insane? I think I could have that
>done for under half of what I'd pay for the whole custom neck, which
>is of course quite tempting...he's just re-finished the Charvette neck
>for me, getting it back today with proper sanding/laquer job instead
>of the crap job I did.
>
>Cheers,
>
>Dee
Probably won't be worth it, I doubt if you can stiffen the neck
enough....BUT you seem to have your heart set on it...and there is no
price for that...so go for it!
***********
Please help me out--REVIEW someone's song at:
http :// reviewmymusic.blogspot,com /
On Mon, 5 May 2008 01:01:25 -0700 (PDT), DeeAa <deeaa@dnainternet,net >
wrote:
>Hello,
>
>I've been discussing getting this new neck for my flying-V knockoff.
>Now I've come up with this idea and I'd like any input from luthiers
>here if it's a good idea at all. My luthier says he can do it, but
>hasn't really done it before. At any rate it'll be much cheaper than a
>whole neck...
>
>See, I like the neck quite fine now that I've shaped it to suit my
>hand, the trussrod works OK and the only problems with it are I'd like
>a maple fretboard, it definitely needs all new frets AND it is a bit
>too 'flexy' overall...I'd like to make it a tad more rigid. I love to
>play it even with the problems it has now, though. Just could be even
>better.
>
>What I proposed he'd do is remove the fretboard and install a figured
>maple one with semi-jumbo frets and then re-finish the whole neck
>properly. He says a new maple fretboard alone should make the neck a
>little more rigid, but there is also a possibility of routing some
>grooves under the fretboard and install e.g. carbon fibre rods to make
>it really rock solid. I already ordered some birdseye maple fretboard
>blanks, so he could use one of those.
>
>What do you think of the idea? Is it insane? I think I could have that
>done for under half of what I'd pay for the whole custom neck, which
>is of course quite tempting...he's just re-finished the Charvette neck
>for me, getting it back today with proper sanding/laquer job instead
>of the crap job I did.
>
>Cheers,
>
>Dee
Probably won't be worth it, I doubt if you can stiffen the neck
enough....BUT you seem to have your heart set on it...and there is no
price for that...so go for it!
***********
Please help me out--REVIEW someone's song at:
http :// reviewmymusic.blogspot,com /
Re: Re-building a neck...
"DeeAa" <deeaa@dnainternet,net > wrote in message
news:9d417d65-5652-42b8-af86-24b13c0dc308@d45g2000hsc.googlegroups,com ...
> Hello,
>
> I've been discussing getting this new neck for my flying-V knockoff.
> Now I've come up with this idea and I'd like any input from luthiers
> here if it's a good idea at all. My luthier says he can do it, but
> hasn't really done it before. At any rate it'll be much cheaper than a
> whole neck...
>
> See, I like the neck quite fine now that I've shaped it to suit my
> hand, the trussrod works OK and the only problems with it are I'd like
> a maple fretboard, it definitely needs all new frets AND it is a bit
> too 'flexy' overall...I'd like to make it a tad more rigid. I love to
> play it even with the problems it has now, though. Just could be even
> better.
>
> What I proposed he'd do is remove the fretboard and install a figured
> maple one with semi-jumbo frets and then re-finish the whole neck
> properly. He says a new maple fretboard alone should make the neck a
> little more rigid, but there is also a possibility of routing some
> grooves under the fretboard and install e.g. carbon fibre rods to make
> it really rock solid. I already ordered some birdseye maple fretboard
> blanks, so he could use one of those.
>
> What do you think of the idea? Is it insane? I think I could have that
> done for under half of what I'd pay for the whole custom neck, which
> is of course quite tempting...he's just re-finished the Charvette neck
> for me, getting it back today with proper sanding/laquer job instead
> of the crap job I did.
>
> Cheers,
>
> Dee
I thought this might interest you:
http :// www .ukuleles,com /Technology/woodprop.html
As you can see, maple isn't that stiff, and I bet the curly or birdseye
versions are even less, but it looks as if carbon fibre can make a big
difference. Unfortunately rosewood isn't included. <g> I think you are
arguing yourself into maple because you like the look.
The best fretboard material I have ever used is "brown ebony", which I think
is Madagascar, and I have had three or four bad experiences with black ebony
due to instability and splitting
Tony D
"DeeAa" <deeaa@dnainternet,net > wrote in message
news:9d417d65-5652-42b8-af86-24b13c0dc308@d45g2000hsc.googlegroups,com ...
> Hello,
>
> I've been discussing getting this new neck for my flying-V knockoff.
> Now I've come up with this idea and I'd like any input from luthiers
> here if it's a good idea at all. My luthier says he can do it, but
> hasn't really done it before. At any rate it'll be much cheaper than a
> whole neck...
>
> See, I like the neck quite fine now that I've shaped it to suit my
> hand, the trussrod works OK and the only problems with it are I'd like
> a maple fretboard, it definitely needs all new frets AND it is a bit
> too 'flexy' overall...I'd like to make it a tad more rigid. I love to
> play it even with the problems it has now, though. Just could be even
> better.
>
> What I proposed he'd do is remove the fretboard and install a figured
> maple one with semi-jumbo frets and then re-finish the whole neck
> properly. He says a new maple fretboard alone should make the neck a
> little more rigid, but there is also a possibility of routing some
> grooves under the fretboard and install e.g. carbon fibre rods to make
> it really rock solid. I already ordered some birdseye maple fretboard
> blanks, so he could use one of those.
>
> What do you think of the idea? Is it insane? I think I could have that
> done for under half of what I'd pay for the whole custom neck, which
> is of course quite tempting...he's just re-finished the Charvette neck
> for me, getting it back today with proper sanding/laquer job instead
> of the crap job I did.
>
> Cheers,
>
> Dee
I thought this might interest you:
http :// www .ukuleles,com /Technology/woodprop.html
As you can see, maple isn't that stiff, and I bet the curly or birdseye
versions are even less, but it looks as if carbon fibre can make a big
difference. Unfortunately rosewood isn't included. <g> I think you are
arguing yourself into maple because you like the look.
The best fretboard material I have ever used is "brown ebony", which I think
is Madagascar, and I have had three or four bad experiences with black ebony
due to instability and splitting
Tony D
Re: Re-building a neck...
On May 5, 2:33 pm, "Tony Done" <tonyd...@bigpond,com > wrote:
> "DeeAa" <de...@dnainternet,net > wrote in message
>
> news:9d417d65-5652-42b8-af86-24b13c0dc308@d45g2000hsc.googlegroups,com ...
>
>
>
>
>
> > Hello,
>
> > I've been discussing getting this new neck for my flying-V knockoff.
> > Now I've come up with this idea and I'd like any input from luthiers
> > here if it's a good idea at all. My luthier says he can do it, but
> > hasn't really done it before. At any rate it'll be much cheaper than a
> > whole neck...
>
> > See, I like the neck quite fine now that I've shaped it to suit my
> > hand, the trussrod works OK and the only problems with it are I'd like
> > a maple fretboard, it definitely needs all new frets AND it is a bit
> > too 'flexy' overall...I'd like to make it a tad more rigid. I love to
> > play it even with the problems it has now, though. Just could be even
> > better.
>
> > What I proposed he'd do is remove the fretboard and install a figured
> > maple one with semi-jumbo frets and then re-finish the whole neck
> > properly. He says a new maple fretboard alone should make the neck a
> > little more rigid, but there is also a possibility of routing some
> > grooves under the fretboard and install e.g. carbon fibre rods to make
> > it really rock solid. I already ordered some birdseye maple fretboard
> > blanks, so he could use one of those.
>
> > What do you think of the idea? Is it insane? I think I could have that
> > done for under half of what I'd pay for the whole custom neck, which
> > is of course quite tempting...he's just re-finished the Charvette neck
> > for me, getting it back today with proper sanding/laquer job instead
> > of the crap job I did.
>
> > Cheers,
>
> > Dee
>
> I thought this might interest you:
>
> http :// www .ukuleles,com /Technology/woodprop.html
>
> As you can see, maple isn't that stiff, and I bet the curly or birdseye
> versions are even less, but it looks as if carbon fibre can make a big
> difference. Unfortunately rosewood isn't included. <g> I think you are
> arguing yourself into maple because you like the look.
>
> The best fretboard material I have ever used is "brown ebony", which I think
> is Madagascar, and I have had three or four bad experiences with black ebony
> due to instability and splitting
>
> Tony D- Hide quoted text -
>
> - Show quoted text -
Tony, FYI
For a side by side with Maple (hard and soft), three types of
Rosewood, Ebony and, every wood workers nightmare, Lignum Vitae, just
for fun, try this link...
http :// www .hicklerbanjo,com /articles/article/4600666/95644.htm
These are in Kg/cu.m (anything over 1,000 sinks), which makes ebony a
bad thing to latch onto during a shipwreck.
Regards, CS
On May 5, 2:33 pm, "Tony Done" <tonyd...@bigpond,com > wrote:
> "DeeAa" <de...@dnainternet,net > wrote in message
>
> news:9d417d65-5652-42b8-af86-24b13c0dc308@d45g2000hsc.googlegroups,com ...
>
>
>
>
>
> > Hello,
>
> > I've been discussing getting this new neck for my flying-V knockoff.
> > Now I've come up with this idea and I'd like any input from luthiers
> > here if it's a good idea at all. My luthier says he can do it, but
> > hasn't really done it before. At any rate it'll be much cheaper than a
> > whole neck...
>
> > See, I like the neck quite fine now that I've shaped it to suit my
> > hand, the trussrod works OK and the only problems with it are I'd like
> > a maple fretboard, it definitely needs all new frets AND it is a bit
> > too 'flexy' overall...I'd like to make it a tad more rigid. I love to
> > play it even with the problems it has now, though. Just could be even
> > better.
>
> > What I proposed he'd do is remove the fretboard and install a figured
> > maple one with semi-jumbo frets and then re-finish the whole neck
> > properly. He says a new maple fretboard alone should make the neck a
> > little more rigid, but there is also a possibility of routing some
> > grooves under the fretboard and install e.g. carbon fibre rods to make
> > it really rock solid. I already ordered some birdseye maple fretboard
> > blanks, so he could use one of those.
>
> > What do you think of the idea? Is it insane? I think I could have that
> > done for under half of what I'd pay for the whole custom neck, which
> > is of course quite tempting...he's just re-finished the Charvette neck
> > for me, getting it back today with proper sanding/laquer job instead
> > of the crap job I did.
>
> > Cheers,
>
> > Dee
>
> I thought this might interest you:
>
> http :// www .ukuleles,com /Technology/woodprop.html
>
> As you can see, maple isn't that stiff, and I bet the curly or birdseye
> versions are even less, but it looks as if carbon fibre can make a big
> difference. Unfortunately rosewood isn't included. <g> I think you are
> arguing yourself into maple because you like the look.
>
> The best fretboard material I have ever used is "brown ebony", which I think
> is Madagascar, and I have had three or four bad experiences with black ebony
> due to instability and splitting
>
> Tony D- Hide quoted text -
>
> - Show quoted text -
Tony, FYI
For a side by side with Maple (hard and soft), three types of
Rosewood, Ebony and, every wood workers nightmare, Lignum Vitae, just
for fun, try this link...
http :// www .hicklerbanjo,com /articles/article/4600666/95644.htm
These are in Kg/cu.m (anything over 1,000 sinks), which makes ebony a
bad thing to latch onto during a shipwreck.
Regards, CS
Re: Re-building a neck...
"Cyberserf" <cybrserf@sympatico.ca> wrote in message
news:520f4cc1-dc8b-4390-a4d8-263908fc99a8@d1g2000hsg.googlegroups,com ...
On May 5, 2:33 pm, "Tony Done" <tonyd...@bigpond,com > wrote:
> "DeeAa" <de...@dnainternet,net > wrote in message
>
> news:9d417d65-5652-42b8-af86-24b13c0dc308@d45g2000hsc.googlegroups,com ...
>
>
>
>
>
> > Hello,
>
> > I've been discussing getting this new neck for my flying-V knockoff.
> > Now I've come up with this idea and I'd like any input from luthiers
> > here if it's a good idea at all. My luthier says he can do it, but
> > hasn't really done it before. At any rate it'll be much cheaper than a
> > whole neck...
>
> > See, I like the neck quite fine now that I've shaped it to suit my
> > hand, the trussrod works OK and the only problems with it are I'd like
> > a maple fretboard, it definitely needs all new frets AND it is a bit
> > too 'flexy' overall...I'd like to make it a tad more rigid. I love to
> > play it even with the problems it has now, though. Just could be even
> > better.
>
> > What I proposed he'd do is remove the fretboard and install a figured
> > maple one with semi-jumbo frets and then re-finish the whole neck
> > properly. He says a new maple fretboard alone should make the neck a
> > little more rigid, but there is also a possibility of routing some
> > grooves under the fretboard and install e.g. carbon fibre rods to make
> > it really rock solid. I already ordered some birdseye maple fretboard
> > blanks, so he could use one of those.
>
> > What do you think of the idea? Is it insane? I think I could have that
> > done for under half of what I'd pay for the whole custom neck, which
> > is of course quite tempting...he's just re-finished the Charvette neck
> > for me, getting it back today with proper sanding/laquer job instead
> > of the crap job I did.
>
> > Cheers,
>
> > Dee
>
> I thought this might interest you:
>
> http :// www .ukuleles,com /Technology/woodprop.html
>
> As you can see, maple isn't that stiff, and I bet the curly or birdseye
> versions are even less, but it looks as if carbon fibre can make a big
> difference. Unfortunately rosewood isn't included. <g> I think you are
> arguing yourself into maple because you like the look.
>
> The best fretboard material I have ever used is "brown ebony", which I
> think
> is Madagascar, and I have had three or four bad experiences with black
> ebony
> due to instability and splitting
>
> Tony D- Hide quoted text -
>
> - Show quoted text -
Tony, FYI
For a side by side with Maple (hard and soft), three types of
Rosewood, Ebony and, every wood workers nightmare, Lignum Vitae, just
for fun, try this link...
http :// www .hicklerbanjo,com /articles/article/4600666/95644.htm
These are in Kg/cu.m (anything over 1,000 sinks), which makes ebony a
bad thing to latch onto during a shipwreck.
Regards, CS
Thor Heyerdahl's "Kon-Tiki" immediately came to mind. This was a raft made
of balsa logs that successfully crossed the Atlantic. At first it was
settling lower and lower in the water as the logs became waterlogged, but it
sealed after to water had got in about 1 1/2". Ebony would be OK if you had
a really big piece, I suppose it would not waterlog very quickly.
Tony D
"Cyberserf" <cybrserf@sympatico.ca> wrote in message
news:520f4cc1-dc8b-4390-a4d8-263908fc99a8@d1g2000hsg.googlegroups,com ...
On May 5, 2:33 pm, "Tony Done" <tonyd...@bigpond,com > wrote:
> "DeeAa" <de...@dnainternet,net > wrote in message
>
> news:9d417d65-5652-42b8-af86-24b13c0dc308@d45g2000hsc.googlegroups,com ...
>
>
>
>
>
> > Hello,
>
> > I've been discussing getting this new neck for my flying-V knockoff.
> > Now I've come up with this idea and I'd like any input from luthiers
> > here if it's a good idea at all. My luthier says he can do it, but
> > hasn't really done it before. At any rate it'll be much cheaper than a
> > whole neck...
>
> > See, I like the neck quite fine now that I've shaped it to suit my
> > hand, the trussrod works OK and the only problems with it are I'd like
> > a maple fretboard, it definitely needs all new frets AND it is a bit
> > too 'flexy' overall...I'd like to make it a tad more rigid. I love to
> > play it even with the problems it has now, though. Just could be even
> > better.
>
> > What I proposed he'd do is remove the fretboard and install a figured
> > maple one with semi-jumbo frets and then re-finish the whole neck
> > properly. He says a new maple fretboard alone should make the neck a
> > little more rigid, but there is also a possibility of routing some
> > grooves under the fretboard and install e.g. carbon fibre rods to make
> > it really rock solid. I already ordered some birdseye maple fretboard
> > blanks, so he could use one of those.
>
> > What do you think of the idea? Is it insane? I think I could have that
> > done for under half of what I'd pay for the whole custom neck, which
> > is of course quite tempting...he's just re-finished the Charvette neck
> > for me, getting it back today with proper sanding/laquer job instead
> > of the crap job I did.
>
> > Cheers,
>
> > Dee
>
> I thought this might interest you:
>
> http :// www .ukuleles,com /Technology/woodprop.html
>
> As you can see, maple isn't that stiff, and I bet the curly or birdseye
> versions are even less, but it looks as if carbon fibre can make a big
> difference. Unfortunately rosewood isn't included. <g> I think you are
> arguing yourself into maple because you like the look.
>
> The best fretboard material I have ever used is "brown ebony", which I
> think
> is Madagascar, and I have had three or four bad experiences with black
> ebony
> due to instability and splitting
>
> Tony D- Hide quoted text -
>
> - Show quoted text -
Tony, FYI
For a side by side with Maple (hard and soft), three types of
Rosewood, Ebony and, every wood workers nightmare, Lignum Vitae, just
for fun, try this link...
http :// www .hicklerbanjo,com /articles/article/4600666/95644.htm
These are in Kg/cu.m (anything over 1,000 sinks), which makes ebony a
bad thing to latch onto during a shipwreck.
Regards, CS
Thor Heyerdahl's "Kon-Tiki" immediately came to mind. This was a raft made
of balsa logs that successfully crossed the Atlantic. At first it was
settling lower and lower in the water as the logs became waterlogged, but it
sealed after to water had got in about 1 1/2". Ebony would be OK if you had
a really big piece, I suppose it would not waterlog very quickly.
Tony D
Re: Re-building a neck...
"Tony Done" <tonydone@bigpond,com > wrote in message
news:OhJTj.7849$ko5.1174@news-server.bigpond,net .au...
>
> http :// www .ukuleles,com /Technology/woodprop.html
>
> As you can see, maple isn't that stiff, and I bet the curly or birdseye
> versions are even less, but it looks as if carbon fibre can make a big
> difference. Unfortunately rosewood isn't included. <g> I think you are
> arguing yourself into maple because you like the look.
>
Makes you wonder why most necks are made of maple. Well many here make them
out of birch, and they seem really solid. I have once made a crappy birch
neck myself, but it is stiff like nothing.
I've always wanted a maple fretboard. I have had one only once and I loved
the way it felt and how slick it was. I hate the way rosewood hinders
vibrato and 'scratches' the strings all the time.
It seems that it's damned hard to get a guitar with a maple fretboard,
though...I even once ordered a maple fretboard strat neck and lo and behold
there was a mistake and I got a rosewood one. Which I then kept because it
woulda taken weeks to get the maple one.
I would have to change the fretboard anyway---this seems to be pretty
low-grade and grainy rosewood.
> The best fretboard material I have ever used is "brown ebony", which I
> think is Madagascar, and I have had three or four bad experiences with
> black ebony due to instability and splitting
>
Ebony might be nice as well...but I really want laquered maple. I could
probably laquer the rosewood but it'd look stupid.
It's just the question of whether he'll build the whole neck or just improve
the old one.
"Tony Done" <tonydone@bigpond,com > wrote in message
news:OhJTj.7849$ko5.1174@news-server.bigpond,net .au...
>
> http :// www .ukuleles,com /Technology/woodprop.html
>
> As you can see, maple isn't that stiff, and I bet the curly or birdseye
> versions are even less, but it looks as if carbon fibre can make a big
> difference. Unfortunately rosewood isn't included. <g> I think you are
> arguing yourself into maple because you like the look.
>
Makes you wonder why most necks are made of maple. Well many here make them
out of birch, and they seem really solid. I have once made a crappy birch
neck myself, but it is stiff like nothing.
I've always wanted a maple fretboard. I have had one only once and I loved
the way it felt and how slick it was. I hate the way rosewood hinders
vibrato and 'scratches' the strings all the time.
It seems that it's damned hard to get a guitar with a maple fretboard,
though...I even once ordered a maple fretboard strat neck and lo and behold
there was a mistake and I got a rosewood one. Which I then kept because it
woulda taken weeks to get the maple one.
I would have to change the fretboard anyway---this seems to be pretty
low-grade and grainy rosewood.
> The best fretboard material I have ever used is "brown ebony", which I
> think is Madagascar, and I have had three or four bad experiences with
> black ebony due to instability and splitting
>
Ebony might be nice as well...but I really want laquered maple. I could
probably laquer the rosewood but it'd look stupid.
It's just the question of whether he'll build the whole neck or just improve
the old one.
Re: Re-building a neck...
"DeeAa" <deeaaREMOVE_THIS@dnainternet,net > wrote in message
news:481fee6e$0$2672$9b536df3@news.fv.fi...
> "Tony Done" <tonydone@bigpond,com > wrote in message
> news:OhJTj.7849$ko5.1174@news-server.bigpond,net .au...
>>
>> http :// www .ukuleles,com /Technology/woodprop.html
>>
>> As you can see, maple isn't that stiff, and I bet the curly or birdseye
>> versions are even less, but it looks as if carbon fibre can make a big
>> difference. Unfortunately rosewood isn't included. <g> I think you are
>> arguing yourself into maple because you like the look.
>>
> Makes you wonder why most necks are made of maple. Well many here make
> them out of birch, and they seem really solid. I have once made a crappy
> birch neck myself, but it is stiff like nothing.
Birch is a wonderful versatile timber, it makes the best plywood, as used in
good resos and aircraft. I've seen necks made of beech on old UK-made
instruments
>
> I've always wanted a maple fretboard. I have had one only once and I loved
> the way it felt and how slick it was. I hate the way rosewood hinders
> vibrato and 'scratches' the strings all the time.
>
> It seems that it's damned hard to get a guitar with a maple fretboard,
> though...I even once ordered a maple fretboard strat neck and lo and
> behold there was a mistake and I got a rosewood one. Which I then kept
> because it woulda taken weeks to get the maple one.
>
> I would have to change the fretboard anyway---this seems to be pretty
> low-grade and grainy rosewood.
Rosewood is an open grained timber, in spite of being hard and dark
>
>> The best fretboard material I have ever used is "brown ebony", which I
>> think is Madagascar, and I have had three or four bad experiences with
>> black ebony due to instability and splitting
>>
> Ebony might be nice as well...but I really want laquered maple. I could
> probably laquer the rosewood but it'd look stupid.
Ricks have lacquered rosewood boards, looks OK, IMO. It would probably need
two-pack to do a good job, but I'm no expert on such things. See my
superglue suggestion below.
I would not have another black ebony neck *at any price*, too many bad
experiences. An acquiantance of mine seems to have an unstable neck on his
expensive Blade strat, and it has an ebony board. I have thought about
treating a rosewood fretboard by flooding it with superglue to fill the
pores and harden the surface. It would probably be a good idea to remove the
frets first, to avoid gluing them in and so that it could be finished neatly
to look like natural timber, so I haven't tried it yet. <g> You could try it
on your present fretboard, nothing lost if it doesn't work. FWIW, maple a
closed grain timber, so the lacquer finish only acts a surface treatment, it
doesn't soak in to any extent, but lacquer sticks to it well because it
isn't oily.
Tony D
"DeeAa" <deeaaREMOVE_THIS@dnainternet,net > wrote in message
news:481fee6e$0$2672$9b536df3@news.fv.fi...
> "Tony Done" <tonydone@bigpond,com > wrote in message
> news:OhJTj.7849$ko5.1174@news-server.bigpond,net .au...
>>
>> http :// www .ukuleles,com /Technology/woodprop.html
>>
>> As you can see, maple isn't that stiff, and I bet the curly or birdseye
>> versions are even less, but it looks as if carbon fibre can make a big
>> difference. Unfortunately rosewood isn't included. <g> I think you are
>> arguing yourself into maple because you like the look.
>>
> Makes you wonder why most necks are made of maple. Well many here make
> them out of birch, and they seem really solid. I have once made a crappy
> birch neck myself, but it is stiff like nothing.
Birch is a wonderful versatile timber, it makes the best plywood, as used in
good resos and aircraft. I've seen necks made of beech on old UK-made
instruments
>
> I've always wanted a maple fretboard. I have had one only once and I loved
> the way it felt and how slick it was. I hate the way rosewood hinders
> vibrato and 'scratches' the strings all the time.
>
> It seems that it's damned hard to get a guitar with a maple fretboard,
> though...I even once ordered a maple fretboard strat neck and lo and
> behold there was a mistake and I got a rosewood one. Which I then kept
> because it woulda taken weeks to get the maple one.
>
> I would have to change the fretboard anyway---this seems to be pretty
> low-grade and grainy rosewood.
Rosewood is an open grained timber, in spite of being hard and dark
>
>> The best fretboard material I have ever used is "brown ebony", which I
>> think is Madagascar, and I have had three or four bad experiences with
>> black ebony due to instability and splitting
>>
> Ebony might be nice as well...but I really want laquered maple. I could
> probably laquer the rosewood but it'd look stupid.
Ricks have lacquered rosewood boards, looks OK, IMO. It would probably need
two-pack to do a good job, but I'm no expert on such things. See my
superglue suggestion below.
I would not have another black ebony neck *at any price*, too many bad
experiences. An acquiantance of mine seems to have an unstable neck on his
expensive Blade strat, and it has an ebony board. I have thought about
treating a rosewood fretboard by flooding it with superglue to fill the
pores and harden the surface. It would probably be a good idea to remove the
frets first, to avoid gluing them in and so that it could be finished neatly
to look like natural timber, so I haven't tried it yet. <g> You could try it
on your present fretboard, nothing lost if it doesn't work. FWIW, maple a
closed grain timber, so the lacquer finish only acts a surface treatment, it
doesn't soak in to any extent, but lacquer sticks to it well because it
isn't oily.
Tony D
