Re: latest "bargain"
"Gary Gerhart" <Gary@GerhartAmps . com > wrote in message
news:sqsSj.630$J16.107@newssvr23.news.prodigy . net ...
> Phil S. wrote:
>> I'm just a sucker -- sometimes I buy cheap iron on eBay just to see what
>> it is. I'll probably sell this one. I didn't pay enough to get hurt --
>> $16 with shipping. Before I spend time testing it or list it on eBay, I
>> thought I'd ask if anyone here thinks this PT might be used with a
>> doubler.
>>
>> Numbers on the tranny are 300261-1MOD; 93-011-031-97; 606125, making this
>> a Woodard-Schumacher, and that was the big draw along with it being NIB,
>> never soldered. It weighs in at about 8.5#, and the laminations are 2
>> 3/8" thick. There is a copper band around it. So, this is really quite a
>> hefty PT, not a wimp.
>>
>> There are 4 windings, unloaded: 34-0-34 (blue); 127-0-127 (brown); 214
>> (red); 6.7 (green). Does this combination ring a bell for anyone? I
>> know it's a longshot.
>>
>> The 34-0-34 winding strikes me a rather pecuiliar, in that it is center
>> tapped. LOL, I could run a pair of 35L6's on that winding and use the
>> 127-0-127 to power the plates. The 107-107 could power the pre-amp along
>> with the 6.3v winding. It this nuts or what?
>>
>> If I thought I could double the HT winding, I'm guessing I could wring
>> out 215-215 through a FW bridge. I could probably run a pair of 6AQ5 at
>> a low wattage.
>>
>> C'mon fellas. There isn't much on topic stuff here lately. Go ahead and
>> speculate. Have some fun with this.
>>
>> Regards,
>> Phil
>
> Phil,
>
> How do you dare not include political, social,
> or <reader's pet peeve here> content in your post? ;)
>
> There are color code specs for power transformers, but
> they are not always followed.
>
> Red should be the B+
> Green should be the filament.
> Brown should an additional filament.
> Blue ...
>
> Remember your thread a while back re: "Transformer
> mA Rating"? Time to go through it...
>
> The red winding is 214. I assume that's not a center-tapped
> winding. If that is correct, use a full wave bridge rectifier
> for about 300VDC. You need to determine the ampacity of the winding.
>
> You could, if you wanted to get creative, use the blue and
> brown windings for different screen voltages. The brown,
> using a full wave rectifier, will give you about 170VDC.
> The blue, no connection to the center tap, full wave bridge
> rectifier, will give around 90VDC. You *could* switch between
> these screen grid supplies to net an amp with three different
> power ranges. The lower the screen grid voltage, the lower the
> output power. You will probably need to address the bias voltage
> for each of the three different power ranges, as well.
>
> Of course, you need to determine each winding's ampacity.
> Once you've established these numbers, you can peruse tube data
> sheets, interpolate certain values, and come up with a truly
> unique design.
>
> Phil, you can have a lot of fun with this one; and learn
> a great deal, as well. But it will take some effort.
> You can certainly do it.
>
> Gary Gerhart
> Gerhart Amplification
>
Hi Gary,
I wasn't looking for a short cut here, as I know there isn't one. I
thought, however, it was an unusual collection of windings that might ring a
bell with someone.
So, I've started a bit of research, as that's something I can't seem to
resist.
The primary winding measures 1.5z on my Tripplett meter. Sorry, now I'm
wishing I had a Fluke! According to a table published here many moons ago
by Phil Allison, that ohm rating suggests VA is between 225 and 300, so
let's call it 260 for the sake of having a discussion. That would be a nice
number to start with.
Then, I came across this power transformer calculator.
: * w w w .angelfire . com /electronic/funwithtubes/Programs/Power_Transformer-98.exe
Who know if it's any good, but I gave it a try. Plugging in the unloaded
voltages and the ohms of the windings S1 (Blue-Black/White-Blue) 5.5z, S2
(Brown-Brown/white-Brown) 1.6z, S3 (Red-Red) 16.3z, and S4 (Green-Green)
0.4z, the physical dimensions of the transformer and its intended
orientation, it supposedly corrects for loading and solves for current.
Here's what I got in results:
S1 239v @ 1.2A
S2 67v @ 1.1A
S3 207V @ 340mA
S4 6.3V @ 800mA
I was "good" with these results up until the last one. Although, by some
miracle, it gave the filament winding a loaded voltage that's correct, I'm
finding the low mA rating either disappointing or simply out of sync with
the S1 amd S2 ratings. Yikes, if the amps are correct on S1, running it
through a quadrupler will still leave about 300mA on the B+ supply. So, I
ran some data from a known PT into the calculator, and it proves to be
unreliable. Either I don't know how to use it, I've got the wrong data, or
its a POS. Anyhow, it was a "nice try". Maybe I'll try it again. I've got
two PT's on the shelf with known spec, but I've got to fire them up to get
unloaded voltages and that's too much of a PITA right now.
Looking at the item, its physical size and weight, and the apparent VA
rating, I think maybe this one is worth testing. I don't think I've got the
right sandblock resistors for load testing. I have one 1k5 25W, two 15K
10W, and one 10K 10W. I'd gladly accept some suggestions here.
I'll have to build out a power supply and rectifier, and put a cap on it.
Then, I can see what the three non-filament winding produce in VDC. I
assume it is OK to do this on a wood board (breadboarding)?
So, what's an appropriate load for the filament winding. I'm lost here. I
know, for example 6.3vac running two EL84 and three 12AX7 requires 2.41A.
That's 15.2W. So, how do I solve for the number of ohms that should drop
from 6.66 to 6.3? I have a mental block on this stuff. Well, OK, maybe I
don't. I get 2.6 ohms is needed to tell me it supports those five tubes.
Is that right? I jusst seems so small. So, I need a 2.6 ohm 15W resistor.
LOL!
I'll sleep on this.
Thanks.
Phil