getting the gunk off?

getting the gunk off?

I'm reclaiming parts from an Arkay FL10. It appears to be complete, but
everything inside is covered with yuck[1]. Is there something cheap I can
spray on it to get rid of some of this? Something that will evaporate and
not leave noticable residue? In particular, I'd like to hit the pin side
of the sockets. Or is this Q-tip and alcohol time?

How bad would a dip in soapy water followed by clear rinse and blow dry be?
I wouldn't do this to the pots. Trannys are already removed -- I've got
them.

BTW, this was a good score. It came complete with tubes (GE 6V6GT's
Realistic Lifetime branded, Siemens 12XA7, Philco branded black plate 12AU7.
Siemens 12AU7, RCA 5Y3GT). Multi tap OT w/ 6600 primary and 340-0-340 PT.
Not sure what I'll do with it just yet, but I needed a distraction, so I
started to harvest parts. I'm not fond of the sidesways frame style
chassis.

[1] filmy sticky gunk with gobs of dust stock to it.

Re: getting the gunk off?

On Tue, 6 May 2008 22:37:37 -0400, "Phil S."
<psymonds_no_spam@comcast . net > wrote:

>I'm reclaiming parts from an Arkay FL10. It appears to be complete, but
>everything inside is covered with yuck[1]. Is there something cheap I can
>spray on it to get rid of some of this? Something that will evaporate and
>not leave noticable residue? In particular, I'd like to hit the pin side
>of the sockets. Or is this Q-tip and alcohol time?
>
>How bad would a dip in soapy water followed by clear rinse and blow dry be?
>I wouldn't do this to the pots. Trannys are already removed -- I've got
>them.
>
>BTW, this was a good score. It came complete with tubes (GE 6V6GT's
>Realistic Lifetime branded, Siemens 12XA7, Philco branded black plate 12AU7.
>Siemens 12AU7, RCA 5Y3GT). Multi tap OT w/ 6600 primary and 340-0-340 PT.
>Not sure what I'll do with it just yet, but I needed a distraction, so I
>started to harvest parts. I'm not fond of the sidesways frame style
>chassis.
>
>[1] filmy sticky gunk with gobs of dust stock to it.
>
Go to Rat Shack and get you some new tubes if those don't turn out to
be good...

Re: getting the gunk off?


"Phil S." <psymonds_no_spam@comcast . net > wrote in message
news:NMedndFtvYx2iLzVnZ2dnUVZ_oKhnZ2d@comcast . com ...
> I'm reclaiming parts from an Arkay FL10. It appears to be complete, but
> everything inside is covered with yuck[1]. Is there something cheap I can
> spray on it to get rid of some of this? Something that will evaporate
> and not leave noticable residue? In particular, I'd like to hit the pin
> side of the sockets. Or is this Q-tip and alcohol time?
>
> How bad would a dip in soapy water followed by clear rinse and blow dry
> be? I wouldn't do this to the pots. Trannys are already removed -- I've
> got them.
>
> BTW, this was a good score. It came complete with tubes (GE 6V6GT's
> Realistic Lifetime branded, Siemens 12XA7, Philco branded black plate
> 12AU7. Siemens 12AU7, RCA 5Y3GT). Multi tap OT w/ 6600 primary and
> 340-0-340 PT. Not sure what I'll do with it just yet, but I needed a
> distraction, so I started to harvest parts. I'm not fond of the sidesways
> frame style chassis.
>
> [1] filmy sticky gunk with gobs of dust stock to it.

Flux remover or Easy-Off oven cleaner.

Where was that unit used? In a deep fry restaurant above
the stove?

Re: getting the gunk off?


"Elvis Kabong" <ampscience@tuneland . com > wrote in message
news:WobUj.33559$DY1.11217@bignews5.bellsouth . net ...
>
> Where was that unit used? In a deep fry restaurant above
> the stove?
Sure looks like it. I don't see date codes anywhere -- what, maybe its 40
years old?. I'd guess is sat above the deep fryer for 20 years and then it
went into circulation as used equipment until it wound up on my bench for
recycling.

The last bozo who had it put a quarter inch plug on the output, I guess to a
speaker cabinet, and there we two pristine Sprague Atoms, one 50u 50v and
one 10u 500v. He tacked them in with a blob of solder (good for the
Soldapullt), so the original lead length seems to be intact. There is also
a small pile of carbon comp resistors with decent lead length, though I
don't often use those.

Re: getting the gunk off?

On Wed, 7 May 2008 09:30:38 -0400, "Phil S."
<psymonds_no_spam@comcast . net > wrote:

>
>"Elvis Kabong" <ampscience@tuneland . com > wrote in message
>news:WobUj.33559$DY1.11217@bignews5.bellsouth . net ...
>>
>> Where was that unit used? In a deep fry restaurant above
>> the stove?
>Sure looks like it. I don't see date codes anywhere -- what, maybe its 40
>years old?. I'd guess is sat above the deep fryer for 20 years and then it
>went into circulation as used equipment until it wound up on my bench for
>recycling.
>
>The last bozo who had it put a quarter inch plug on the output, I guess to a
>speaker cabinet, and there we two pristine Sprague Atoms, one 50u 50v and
>one 10u 500v. He tacked them in with a blob of solder (good for the
>Soldapullt), so the original lead length seems to be intact. There is also
>a small pile of carbon comp resistors with decent lead length, though I
>don't often use those.
>
Take the tubes out and take the rest to an alternator rebuilding
company and let them dip the whole thing is a 55 gallon barrel of
electrical solvent...lol

Re: getting the gunk off?

On Wed, 7 May 2008 00:49:21 -0500, "Elvis Kabong"
<ampscience@tuneland . com > wrote:

>
>"Phil S." <psymonds_no_spam@comcast . net > wrote in message
>news:NMedndFtvYx2iLzVnZ2dnUVZ_oKhnZ2d@comcast . com ...
>> I'm reclaiming parts from an Arkay FL10. It appears to be complete, but
>> everything inside is covered with yuck[1]. Is there something cheap I can
>> spray on it to get rid of some of this? Something that will evaporate
>> and not leave noticable residue? In particular, I'd like to hit the pin
>> side of the sockets. Or is this Q-tip and alcohol time?
>>
>> How bad would a dip in soapy water followed by clear rinse and blow dry
>> be? I wouldn't do this to the pots. Trannys are already removed -- I've
>> got them.
>>
>> BTW, this was a good score. It came complete with tubes (GE 6V6GT's
>> Realistic Lifetime branded, Siemens 12XA7, Philco branded black plate
>> 12AU7. Siemens 12AU7, RCA 5Y3GT). Multi tap OT w/ 6600 primary and
>> 340-0-340 PT. Not sure what I'll do with it just yet, but I needed a
>> distraction, so I started to harvest parts. I'm not fond of the sidesways
>> frame style chassis.
>>
>> [1] filmy sticky gunk with gobs of dust stock to it.
>
>Flux remover or Easy-Off oven cleaner.
>
>Where was that unit used? In a deep fry restaurant above
>the stove?
>

Oven cleaner? Not 2 sure 'bout that...

-DC

Re: getting the gunk off?

On Tue, 6 May 2008 22:37:37 -0400, "Phil S."
<psymonds_no_spam@comcast . net > wrote:

>I'm reclaiming parts from an Arkay FL10. It appears to be complete, but
>everything inside is covered with yuck[1]. Is there something cheap I can
>spray on it to get rid of some of this? Something that will evaporate and
>not leave noticable residue? In particular, I'd like to hit the pin side
>of the sockets. Or is this Q-tip and alcohol time?
>
>How bad would a dip in soapy water followed by clear rinse and blow dry be?
>I wouldn't do this to the pots. Trannys are already removed -- I've got
>them.
>
>BTW, this was a good score. It came complete with tubes (GE 6V6GT's
>Realistic Lifetime branded, Siemens 12XA7, Philco branded black plate 12AU7.
>Siemens 12AU7, RCA 5Y3GT). Multi tap OT w/ 6600 primary and 340-0-340 PT.
>Not sure what I'll do with it just yet, but I needed a distraction, so I
>started to harvest parts. I'm not fond of the sidesways frame style
>chassis.
>
>[1] filmy sticky gunk with gobs of dust stock to it.
>

First, I'd use a can or 2 of non-residue contact cleaner. The stuff is
usually forceful enough to blow all the crap out of the sockets (use
safety glasses), and you don't need to worry about the pots; it'll
clean them too. Just go easy, don't remove too much of the shaft lube.
After you soak the socket, R&R the tube 4 or 5 times, rinse the pins
and repeat 'til you think they're clean. After it looks clean either
leave it dry or treat with Caig* ProGold GxL (I like the pen). After
you flush the pots out, treat them with * Deoxit; rotate the pot 5X or
so and finish with a squirt of * MCL.

On the other hand, there's the dishwasher...

-DC

Re: getting the gunk off?


"Dave Curtis" <dbaudiotech@roderunner . com > wrote in message
news:rka324p8hi659qflabs44rbojtk8ikdvnj@4ax . com ...
> On Tue, 6 May 2008 22:37:37 -0400, "Phil S."
> <psymonds_no_spam@comcast . net > wrote:
>
> On the other hand, there's the dishwasher...
>
> -DC

LOL, and that is probably NOT my domain in the domestic world. I'm
*allowed* to install it, but not cycle my amps through it.

BTW, said the amateur to the master, the one we have now, I was lazy and
decided I would wire it hot. Really not a challenging task. Anyhow, I
shorted a wire to the box and it blew up in my hand. Mostly smoke and soot,
no real damage. I had black stuff all over my hand. After realizing it was
pointless to argue with my wife, who rightfully became irrational about it,
I drove myself to the ER for a visit I knew wasn't needed, as I was not
burnt, just blackened with soot. When I returned home, I finished the job.
Since the breaker was already open, my lazy self still didn't need to go
down to the box and shut it off. That was at least 10 years ago, and the
last time I tried working on a live household circuit.

Re: getting the gunk off?

On Wed, 7 May 2008 18:16:02 -0400, "Phil S."
<psymonds_no_spam@comcast . net > wrote:

>
>"Dave Curtis" <dbaudiotech@roderunner . com > wrote in message
>news:rka324p8hi659qflabs44rbojtk8ikdvnj@4ax . com ...
>> On Tue, 6 May 2008 22:37:37 -0400, "Phil S."
>> <psymonds_no_spam@comcast . net > wrote:
>>
>> On the other hand, there's the dishwasher...
>>
>> -DC
>
>LOL, and that is probably NOT my domain in the domestic world. I'm
>*allowed* to install it, but not cycle my amps through it.
>
>BTW, said the amateur to the master, the one we have now, I was lazy and
>decided I would wire it hot. Really not a challenging task. Anyhow, I
>shorted a wire to the box and it blew up in my hand. Mostly smoke and soot,
>no real damage. I had black stuff all over my hand. After realizing it was
>pointless to argue with my wife, who rightfully became irrational about it,
>I drove myself to the ER for a visit I knew wasn't needed, as I was not
>burnt, just blackened with soot. When I returned home, I finished the job.
>Since the breaker was already open, my lazy self still didn't need to go
>down to the box and shut it off. That was at least 10 years ago, and the
>last time I tried working on a live household circuit.
>

Well, you know that breaker works, huh? :o)

BTDT (more than once). I recall my thumbnail being "plated" a nice
copper color for a week or so after being real close to an arc-flash.
The black came off, but the copper took a while.

There's a new '08 NEC code article dealing with when you can work live
(almost never, and then only with protective gear).


-DC
Owner of a "half-tip" screwdriver and a "notched" pair of lineman's
pliers (oops).

Re: getting the gunk off?

Dave Curtis wrote:

> On Wed, 7 May 2008 18:16:02 -0400, "Phil S."
> <psymonds_no_spam@comcast . net > wrote:
>
> >
> >"Dave Curtis" <dbaudiotech@roderunner . com > wrote in message
> >news:rka324p8hi659qflabs44rbojtk8ikdvnj@4ax . com ...
> >> On Tue, 6 May 2008 22:37:37 -0400, "Phil S."
> >> <psymonds_no_spam@comcast . net > wrote:
> >>
> >> On the other hand, there's the dishwasher...
> >>
> >> -DC
> >
> >LOL, and that is probably NOT my domain in the domestic world. I'm
> >*allowed* to install it, but not cycle my amps through it.
> >
> >BTW, said the amateur to the master, the one we have now, I was lazy and
> >decided I would wire it hot. Really not a challenging task. Anyhow, I
> >shorted a wire to the box and it blew up in my hand. Mostly smoke and soot,
> >no real damage. I had black stuff all over my hand. After realizing it was
> >pointless to argue with my wife, who rightfully became irrational about it,
> >I drove myself to the ER for a visit I knew wasn't needed, as I was not
> >burnt, just blackened with soot. When I returned home, I finished the job.
> >Since the breaker was already open, my lazy self still didn't need to go
> >down to the box and shut it off. That was at least 10 years ago, and the
> >last time I tried working on a live household circuit.
> >
>
> Well, you know that breaker works, huh? :o)
>
> BTDT (more than once). I recall my thumbnail being "plated" a nice
> copper color for a week or so after being real close to an arc-flash.
> The black came off, but the copper took a while.
>
> There's a new '08 NEC code article dealing with when you can work live
> (almost never, and then only with protective gear).
>
> -DC
> Owner of a "half-tip" screwdriver and a "notched" pair of lineman's
> pliers (oops).

Hey, Dave...

Since you're an electrician, maybe you can answer this:

About a year and a half ago (give or take a couple of months)
I bought four "shop light" fixtures to hang in the back room
at my store. These crapped out one by one until only one
was working, so I took one down and opened it up. I opened
the ballast, and it had a couple of sub-ohm resistors burned
open (used as fuses, obviously) going to a couple of TO-220
transistors. They had wierd numbers on them, so I couldn't
cross them. I figured I could just go to the Home Depot and
pick up some new ballasts, but I couldn't find a ballast that
cost less than twenty bucks (two 32- or 40-watt tubes), and
the fixtures themselves (Chinese, of course) were only
$8.59 each! What's up with that?

I hate to throw shit out that could be fixed, but - the fix is
way too expensive in this case. My question to you is -
are "shop light" fixtures (with good parts in them) still
made in America, and if so, under what brand name?
I wouldn't mind shelling out more bread if I could get
something that was going to last 10-20 years. These
are the kind that hang on chains, not ceiling mount
(permanent) fixtures.

Thanks in advance -
LV

Re: getting the gunk off?

On Thu, 08 May 2008 14:27:37 -0600, Lord Valve
<detritus@ix . net com . com > wrote:

>Dave Curtis wrote:
>
>> On Wed, 7 May 2008 18:16:02 -0400, "Phil S."
>> <psymonds_no_spam@comcast . net > wrote:
>>
>> >
>> >"Dave Curtis" <dbaudiotech@roderunner . com > wrote in message
>> >news:rka324p8hi659qflabs44rbojtk8ikdvnj@4ax . com ...
>> >> On Tue, 6 May 2008 22:37:37 -0400, "Phil S."
>> >> <psymonds_no_spam@comcast . net > wrote:
>> >>
>> >> On the other hand, there's the dishwasher...
>> >>
>> >> -DC
>> >
>> >LOL, and that is probably NOT my domain in the domestic world. I'm
>> >*allowed* to install it, but not cycle my amps through it.
>> >
>> >BTW, said the amateur to the master, the one we have now, I was lazy and
>> >decided I would wire it hot. Really not a challenging task. Anyhow, I
>> >shorted a wire to the box and it blew up in my hand. Mostly smoke and soot,
>> >no real damage. I had black stuff all over my hand. After realizing it was
>> >pointless to argue with my wife, who rightfully became irrational about it,
>> >I drove myself to the ER for a visit I knew wasn't needed, as I was not
>> >burnt, just blackened with soot. When I returned home, I finished the job.
>> >Since the breaker was already open, my lazy self still didn't need to go
>> >down to the box and shut it off. That was at least 10 years ago, and the
>> >last time I tried working on a live household circuit.
>> >
>>
>> Well, you know that breaker works, huh? :o)
>>
>> BTDT (more than once). I recall my thumbnail being "plated" a nice
>> copper color for a week or so after being real close to an arc-flash.
>> The black came off, but the copper took a while.
>>
>> There's a new '08 NEC code article dealing with when you can work live
>> (almost never, and then only with protective gear).
>>
>> -DC
>> Owner of a "half-tip" screwdriver and a "notched" pair of lineman's
>> pliers (oops).
>
>Hey, Dave...
>
>Since you're an electrician, maybe you can answer this:
>
>About a year and a half ago (give or take a couple of months)
>I bought four "shop light" fixtures to hang in the back room
>at my store. These crapped out one by one until only one
>was working, so I took one down and opened it up. I opened
>the ballast, and it had a couple of sub-ohm resistors burned
>open (used as fuses, obviously) going to a couple of TO-220
>transistors. They had wierd numbers on them, so I couldn't
>cross them. I figured I could just go to the Home Depot and
>pick up some new ballasts, but I couldn't find a ballast that
>cost less than twenty bucks (two 32- or 40-watt tubes), and
>the fixtures themselves (Chinese, of course) were only
>$8.59 each! What's up with that?

Very cheap 'ballast'. That's why they don't last.

>I hate to throw shit out that could be fixed, but - the fix is
>way too expensive in this case. My question to you is -
>are "shop light" fixtures (with good parts in them) still
>made in America, and if so, under what brand name?
>I wouldn't mind shelling out more bread if I could get
>something that was going to last 10-20 years. These
>are the kind that hang on chains, not ceiling mount
>(permanent) fixtures.
>
>Thanks in advance -
>LV
>

They're highly disposable. Moreso than a Behringer guitar amp. Along
the lines of a Danelectro effects pedal.

If you can fit a new ballast in it (make sure it matches the lamps),
it will last like a real light, and is the cheapest way out.

I seriously doubt that anything in the category "shop light" will last
5 years. I don't know if my local suppliers stock them, we normally
get strip lights.

IME, even when (if) they were made here, they didn't last long. I call
them 'temporary garage lights'.

You could bite the bullet and get some new T8 4' strips. Reuse the
cords from the toy-lites, and do the same with the chain or get some
#12 jack chain. You can gang them together or get 8' units (easier) if
you need them.

Oh, and get the GE SP41 (or eq. '741') lamps; they're brighter and
have better color rendition.

Hell, you might even be able to score some 'Gore-Bucks' going
energy-efficient like that. :o)

-DC

Re: getting the gunk off?

Dave Curtis wrote:

> On Thu, 08 May 2008 14:27:37 -0600, Lord Valve
> <detritus@ix . net com . com > wrote:
>
> >Dave Curtis wrote:
> >
> >> On Wed, 7 May 2008 18:16:02 -0400, "Phil S."
> >> <psymonds_no_spam@comcast . net > wrote:
> >>
> >> >
> >> >"Dave Curtis" <dbaudiotech@roderunner . com > wrote in message
> >> >news:rka324p8hi659qflabs44rbojtk8ikdvnj@4ax . com ...
> >> >> On Tue, 6 May 2008 22:37:37 -0400, "Phil S."
> >> >> <psymonds_no_spam@comcast . net > wrote:
> >> >>
> >> >> On the other hand, there's the dishwasher...
> >> >>
> >> >> -DC
> >> >
> >> >LOL, and that is probably NOT my domain in the domestic world. I'm
> >> >*allowed* to install it, but not cycle my amps through it.
> >> >
> >> >BTW, said the amateur to the master, the one we have now, I was lazy and
> >> >decided I would wire it hot. Really not a challenging task. Anyhow, I
> >> >shorted a wire to the box and it blew up in my hand. Mostly smoke and soot,
> >> >no real damage. I had black stuff all over my hand. After realizing it was
> >> >pointless to argue with my wife, who rightfully became irrational about it,
> >> >I drove myself to the ER for a visit I knew wasn't needed, as I was not
> >> >burnt, just blackened with soot. When I returned home, I finished the job.
> >> >Since the breaker was already open, my lazy self still didn't need to go
> >> >down to the box and shut it off. That was at least 10 years ago, and the
> >> >last time I tried working on a live household circuit.
> >> >
> >>
> >> Well, you know that breaker works, huh? :o)
> >>
> >> BTDT (more than once). I recall my thumbnail being "plated" a nice
> >> copper color for a week or so after being real close to an arc-flash.
> >> The black came off, but the copper took a while.
> >>
> >> There's a new '08 NEC code article dealing with when you can work live
> >> (almost never, and then only with protective gear).
> >>
> >> -DC
> >> Owner of a "half-tip" screwdriver and a "notched" pair of lineman's
> >> pliers (oops).
> >
> >Hey, Dave...
> >
> >Since you're an electrician, maybe you can answer this:
> >
> >About a year and a half ago (give or take a couple of months)
> >I bought four "shop light" fixtures to hang in the back room
> >at my store. These crapped out one by one until only one
> >was working, so I took one down and opened it up. I opened
> >the ballast, and it had a couple of sub-ohm resistors burned
> >open (used as fuses, obviously) going to a couple of TO-220
> >transistors. They had wierd numbers on them, so I couldn't
> >cross them. I figured I could just go to the Home Depot and
> >pick up some new ballasts, but I couldn't find a ballast that
> >cost less than twenty bucks (two 32- or 40-watt tubes), and
> >the fixtures themselves (Chinese, of course) were only
> >$8.59 each! What's up with that?
>
> Very cheap 'ballast'. That's why they don't last.
>
> >I hate to throw shit out that could be fixed, but - the fix is
> >way too expensive in this case. My question to you is -
> >are "shop light" fixtures (with good parts in them) still
> >made in America, and if so, under what brand name?
> >I wouldn't mind shelling out more bread if I could get
> >something that was going to last 10-20 years. These
> >are the kind that hang on chains, not ceiling mount
> >(permanent) fixtures.
> >
> >Thanks in advance -
> >LV
> >
>
> They're highly disposable. Moreso than a Behringer guitar amp. Along
> the lines of a Danelectro effects pedal.
>
> If you can fit a new ballast in it (make sure it matches the lamps),
> it will last like a real light, and is the cheapest way out.
>
> I seriously doubt that anything in the category "shop light" will last
> 5 years. I don't know if my local suppliers stock them, we normally
> get strip lights.
>
> IME, even when (if) they were made here, they didn't last long. I call
> them 'temporary garage lights'.
>
> You could bite the bullet and get some new T8 4' strips. Reuse the
> cords from the toy-lites, and do the same with the chain or get some
> #12 jack chain. You can gang them together or get 8' units (easier) if
> you need them.
>
> Oh, and get the GE SP41 (or eq. '741') lamps; they're brighter and
> have better color rendition.
>
> Hell, you might even be able to score some 'Gore-Bucks' going
> energy-efficient like that. :o)
>
> -DC

Thanks, Dave.

LV

Re: getting the gunk off?

On Fri, 09 May 2008 10:33:52 -0400, Dave Curtis
<dbaudiotech@roderunner . com > wrote:

>On Thu, 08 May 2008 14:27:37 -0600, Lord Valve
><detritus@ix . net com . com > wrote:
>
>>Dave Curtis wrote:
>>
>>> On Wed, 7 May 2008 18:16:02 -0400, "Phil S."
>>> <psymonds_no_spam@comcast . net > wrote:
>>>
>>> >
>>> >"Dave Curtis" <dbaudiotech@roderunner . com > wrote in message
>>> >news:rka324p8hi659qflabs44rbojtk8ikdvnj@4ax . com ...
>>> >> On Tue, 6 May 2008 22:37:37 -0400, "Phil S."
>>> >> <psymonds_no_spam@comcast . net > wrote:
>>> >>
>>> >> On the other hand, there's the dishwasher...
>>> >>
>>> >> -DC
>>> >
>>> >LOL, and that is probably NOT my domain in the domestic world. I'm
>>> >*allowed* to install it, but not cycle my amps through it.
>>> >
>>> >BTW, said the amateur to the master, the one we have now, I was lazy and
>>> >decided I would wire it hot. Really not a challenging task. Anyhow, I
>>> >shorted a wire to the box and it blew up in my hand. Mostly smoke and soot,
>>> >no real damage. I had black stuff all over my hand. After realizing it was
>>> >pointless to argue with my wife, who rightfully became irrational about it,
>>> >I drove myself to the ER for a visit I knew wasn't needed, as I was not
>>> >burnt, just blackened with soot. When I returned home, I finished the job.
>>> >Since the breaker was already open, my lazy self still didn't need to go
>>> >down to the box and shut it off. That was at least 10 years ago, and the
>>> >last time I tried working on a live household circuit.
>>> >
>>>
>>> Well, you know that breaker works, huh? :o)
>>>
>>> BTDT (more than once). I recall my thumbnail being "plated" a nice
>>> copper color for a week or so after being real close to an arc-flash.
>>> The black came off, but the copper took a while.
>>>
>>> There's a new '08 NEC code article dealing with when you can work live
>>> (almost never, and then only with protective gear).
>>>
>>> -DC
>>> Owner of a "half-tip" screwdriver and a "notched" pair of lineman's
>>> pliers (oops).
>>
>>Hey, Dave...
>>
>>Since you're an electrician, maybe you can answer this:
>>
>>About a year and a half ago (give or take a couple of months)
>>I bought four "shop light" fixtures to hang in the back room
>>at my store. These crapped out one by one until only one
>>was working, so I took one down and opened it up. I opened
>>the ballast, and it had a couple of sub-ohm resistors burned
>>open (used as fuses, obviously) going to a couple of TO-220
>>transistors. They had wierd numbers on them, so I couldn't
>>cross them. I figured I could just go to the Home Depot and
>>pick up some new ballasts, but I couldn't find a ballast that
>>cost less than twenty bucks (two 32- or 40-watt tubes), and
>>the fixtures themselves (Chinese, of course) were only
>>$8.59 each! What's up with that?
>
>Very cheap 'ballast'. That's why they don't last.
>
>>I hate to throw shit out that could be fixed, but - the fix is
>>way too expensive in this case. My question to you is -
>>are "shop light" fixtures (with good parts in them) still
>>made in America, and if so, under what brand name?
>>I wouldn't mind shelling out more bread if I could get
>>something that was going to last 10-20 years. These
>>are the kind that hang on chains, not ceiling mount
>>(permanent) fixtures.
>>
>>Thanks in advance -
>>LV
>>
>
>They're highly disposable. Moreso than a Behringer guitar amp. Along
>the lines of a Danelectro effects pedal.
>
>If you can fit a new ballast in it (make sure it matches the lamps),
>it will last like a real light, and is the cheapest way out.
>
>I seriously doubt that anything in the category "shop light" will last
>5 years. I don't know if my local suppliers stock them, we normally
>get strip lights.
>
>IME, even when (if) they were made here, they didn't last long. I call
>them 'temporary garage lights'.
>
>You could bite the bullet and get some new T8 4' strips. Reuse the
>cords from the toy-lites, and do the same with the chain or get some
>#12 jack chain. You can gang them together or get 8' units (easier) if
>you need them.
>
>Oh, and get the GE SP41 (or eq. '741') lamps; they're brighter and
>have better color rendition.
>
>Hell, you might even be able to score some 'Gore-Bucks' going
>energy-efficient like that. :o)
>
>-DC
Try here
* w w w .grainger . com /Grainger/static.jsp?xi=xi&page=tf_i_d_denver0304.html&zip=80209

or find some used street lights...

Re: getting the gunk off?

On Thu, 08 May 2008 16:10:59 -0400, Dave Curtis
<dbaudiotech@roderunner . com > wrote:

>On Wed, 7 May 2008 18:16:02 -0400, "Phil S."
><psymonds_no_spam@comcast . net > wrote:
>
>>
>>"Dave Curtis" <dbaudiotech@roderunner . com > wrote in message
>>news:rka324p8hi659qflabs44rbojtk8ikdvnj@4ax . com ...
>>> On Tue, 6 May 2008 22:37:37 -0400, "Phil S."
>>> <psymonds_no_spam@comcast . net > wrote:
>>>
>>> On the other hand, there's the dishwasher...
>>>
>>> -DC
>>
>>LOL, and that is probably NOT my domain in the domestic world. I'm
>>*allowed* to install it, but not cycle my amps through it.
>>
>>BTW, said the amateur to the master, the one we have now, I was lazy and
>>decided I would wire it hot. Really not a challenging task. Anyhow, I
>>shorted a wire to the box and it blew up in my hand. Mostly smoke and soot,
>>no real damage. I had black stuff all over my hand. After realizing it was
>>pointless to argue with my wife, who rightfully became irrational about it,
>>I drove myself to the ER for a visit I knew wasn't needed, as I was not
>>burnt, just blackened with soot. When I returned home, I finished the job.
>>Since the breaker was already open, my lazy self still didn't need to go
>>down to the box and shut it off. That was at least 10 years ago, and the
>>last time I tried working on a live household circuit.
>>
>
>Well, you know that breaker works, huh? :o)
>
>BTDT (more than once). I recall my thumbnail being "plated" a nice
>copper color for a week or so after being real close to an arc-flash.
>The black came off, but the copper took a while.
>
>There's a new '08 NEC code article dealing with when you can work live
>(almost never, and then only with protective gear).
>
>
>-DC
>Owner of a "half-tip" screwdriver and a "notched" pair of lineman's
>pliers (oops).
Wanna buy a notched Klein stripper?

Re: getting the gunk off?

On Thu, 08 May 2008 16:03:03 -0500, J.P. <jpasano@hotmail . com > wrote:

>On Thu, 08 May 2008 16:10:59 -0400, Dave Curtis
><dbaudiotech@roderunner . com > wrote:
>
>>On Wed, 7 May 2008 18:16:02 -0400, "Phil S."
>><psymonds_no_spam@comcast . net > wrote:
>>
>>>
>>>"Dave Curtis" <dbaudiotech@roderunner . com > wrote in message
>>>news:rka324p8hi659qflabs44rbojtk8ikdvnj@4ax . com ...
>>>> On Tue, 6 May 2008 22:37:37 -0400, "Phil S."
>>>> <psymonds_no_spam@comcast . net > wrote:
>>>>
>>>> On the other hand, there's the dishwasher...
>>>>
>>>> -DC
>>>
>>>LOL, and that is probably NOT my domain in the domestic world. I'm
>>>*allowed* to install it, but not cycle my amps through it.
>>>
>>>BTW, said the amateur to the master, the one we have now, I was lazy and
>>>decided I would wire it hot. Really not a challenging task. Anyhow, I
>>>shorted a wire to the box and it blew up in my hand. Mostly smoke and soot,
>>>no real damage. I had black stuff all over my hand. After realizing it was
>>>pointless to argue with my wife, who rightfully became irrational about it,
>>>I drove myself to the ER for a visit I knew wasn't needed, as I was not
>>>burnt, just blackened with soot. When I returned home, I finished the job.
>>>Since the breaker was already open, my lazy self still didn't need to go
>>>down to the box and shut it off. That was at least 10 years ago, and the
>>>last time I tried working on a live household circuit.
>>>
>>
>>Well, you know that breaker works, huh? :o)
>>
>>BTDT (more than once). I recall my thumbnail being "plated" a nice
>>copper color for a week or so after being real close to an arc-flash.
>>The black came off, but the copper took a while.
>>
>>There's a new '08 NEC code article dealing with when you can work live
>>(almost never, and then only with protective gear).
>>
>>
>>-DC
>>Owner of a "half-tip" screwdriver and a "notched" pair of lineman's
>>pliers (oops).
>Wanna buy a notched Klein stripper?

Got 2 already, thanks.

(forgot about those...)