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Big String Stresses
Big String Stresses
I want to change strings on my guitar from 10,13,17,30,42,52 to heavier
strings. My next set will be 11-54 gauge and I have been told that my
guitar will not have a problem with the string tension. ( I hope I can
fair as well :) )
Eventually I would like to try even heavier strings, but I'm a bit
concerned about maybe damaging my guitar....
Are there any early signs indicating excessive stress "before" I
discover I have a folding guitar?
Cheers
Arlowe
I want to change strings on my guitar from 10,13,17,30,42,52 to heavier
strings. My next set will be 11-54 gauge and I have been told that my
guitar will not have a problem with the string tension. ( I hope I can
fair as well :) )
Eventually I would like to try even heavier strings, but I'm a bit
concerned about maybe damaging my guitar....
Are there any early signs indicating excessive stress "before" I
discover I have a folding guitar?
Cheers
Arlowe
Re: Big String Stresses
"ARLOWE" <ARLOWE@nose.picker . com > wrote in message
news:mn.142e7d855a0682fa.90583@nose.picker . com ...
>I want to change strings on my guitar from 10,13,17,30,42,52 to heavier
> strings. My next set will be 11-54 gauge and I have been told that my
> guitar will not have a problem with the string tension. ( I hope I can
> fair as well :) )
> Eventually I would like to try even heavier strings, but I'm a bit
> concerned about maybe damaging my guitar....
> Are there any early signs indicating excessive stress "before" I discover
> I have a folding guitar?
>
> Cheers
> Arlowe
>
>
I take it you are talking about an acoustic. The great majority of modern
acoustics are designed to take strings up to 13-56 at standard tuning.
However, guitars tend to slowly go banana-shaped under string tension, so
13-56 may cause some guitars to reach a point where the saddle cannot be
lowered enough to get a low action, over a period of years. The best
insurance against this happen in the short term is to have a high neck angle
to start with, which means plenty of saddle showing above the bridge. If
your guitar has 1/8" or so of saddle showing at the treble side with the
action set low, then putting on heavier strings shouldn't be a problem. -
Even if the geometry does deteriorate, there will be enough saddle removable
to compensate. A useful test is to look down the tops of the frets from the
headstock to the bridge, and estimate where they would point to if the neck
was straight. They should point at the top of the bridge. If they point much
lower than this (like halfway down the bridge), the guitar has a low neck
angle and you might run out of saddle for lowering under increased string
tension either now or at some point in the future.
Bellying of the top is not a good indicator to too-high string tension, IMO,
because most guitars built light enough to have a decent tone will do this.
It might look ugly, but it is part of the package.
Tony D
"ARLOWE" <ARLOWE@nose.picker . com > wrote in message
news:mn.142e7d855a0682fa.90583@nose.picker . com ...
>I want to change strings on my guitar from 10,13,17,30,42,52 to heavier
> strings. My next set will be 11-54 gauge and I have been told that my
> guitar will not have a problem with the string tension. ( I hope I can
> fair as well :) )
> Eventually I would like to try even heavier strings, but I'm a bit
> concerned about maybe damaging my guitar....
> Are there any early signs indicating excessive stress "before" I discover
> I have a folding guitar?
>
> Cheers
> Arlowe
>
>
I take it you are talking about an acoustic. The great majority of modern
acoustics are designed to take strings up to 13-56 at standard tuning.
However, guitars tend to slowly go banana-shaped under string tension, so
13-56 may cause some guitars to reach a point where the saddle cannot be
lowered enough to get a low action, over a period of years. The best
insurance against this happen in the short term is to have a high neck angle
to start with, which means plenty of saddle showing above the bridge. If
your guitar has 1/8" or so of saddle showing at the treble side with the
action set low, then putting on heavier strings shouldn't be a problem. -
Even if the geometry does deteriorate, there will be enough saddle removable
to compensate. A useful test is to look down the tops of the frets from the
headstock to the bridge, and estimate where they would point to if the neck
was straight. They should point at the top of the bridge. If they point much
lower than this (like halfway down the bridge), the guitar has a low neck
angle and you might run out of saddle for lowering under increased string
tension either now or at some point in the future.
Bellying of the top is not a good indicator to too-high string tension, IMO,
because most guitars built light enough to have a decent tone will do this.
It might look ugly, but it is part of the package.
Tony D
Re: Big String Stresses
on 5/2/2008, Tony Done supposed :
> "ARLOWE" <ARLOWE@nose.picker . com > wrote in message
> news:mn.142e7d855a0682fa.90583@nose.picker . com ...
>>I want to change strings on my guitar from 10,13,17,30,42,52 to heavier
>> strings. My next set will be 11-54 gauge and I have been told that my
>> guitar will not have a problem with the string tension. ( I hope I can fair
>> as well :) )
>> Eventually I would like to try even heavier strings, but I'm a bit
>> concerned about maybe damaging my guitar....
>> Are there any early signs indicating excessive stress "before" I discover I
>> have a folding guitar?
>>
>> Cheers
>> Arlowe
>>
>>
>
> I take it you are talking about an acoustic. The great majority of modern
> acoustics are designed to take strings up to 13-56 at standard tuning.
> However, guitars tend to slowly go banana-shaped under string tension, so
> 13-56 may cause some guitars to reach a point where the saddle cannot be
> lowered enough to get a low action, over a period of years. The best
> insurance against this happen in the short term is to have a high neck angle
> to start with, which means plenty of saddle showing above the bridge. If your
> guitar has 1/8" or so of saddle showing at the treble side with the action
> set low, then putting on heavier strings shouldn't be a problem. - Even if
> the geometry does deteriorate, there will be enough saddle removable to
> compensate. A useful test is to look down the tops of the frets from the
> headstock to the bridge, and estimate where they would point to if the neck
> was straight. They should point at the top of the bridge. If they point much
> lower than this (like halfway down the bridge), the guitar has a low neck
> angle and you might run out of saddle for lowering under increased string
> tension either now or at some point in the future.
>
>
> Bellying of the top is not a good indicator to too-high string tension, IMO,
> because most guitars built light enough to have a decent tone will do this.
> It might look ugly, but it is part of the package.
>
> Tony D
sorry, I should have statedthe type... I play a Korean made ES 335
clone.
The brand is Crafter The label says it's a SEG480TM/VTG-V if that means
anything... . it can be seen on the manufacturers website
* w w w .crafterguitars . com /gallery acoustic/seg480tm vtg v.php
on 5/2/2008, Tony Done supposed :
> "ARLOWE" <ARLOWE@nose.picker . com > wrote in message
> news:mn.142e7d855a0682fa.90583@nose.picker . com ...
>>I want to change strings on my guitar from 10,13,17,30,42,52 to heavier
>> strings. My next set will be 11-54 gauge and I have been told that my
>> guitar will not have a problem with the string tension. ( I hope I can fair
>> as well :) )
>> Eventually I would like to try even heavier strings, but I'm a bit
>> concerned about maybe damaging my guitar....
>> Are there any early signs indicating excessive stress "before" I discover I
>> have a folding guitar?
>>
>> Cheers
>> Arlowe
>>
>>
>
> I take it you are talking about an acoustic. The great majority of modern
> acoustics are designed to take strings up to 13-56 at standard tuning.
> However, guitars tend to slowly go banana-shaped under string tension, so
> 13-56 may cause some guitars to reach a point where the saddle cannot be
> lowered enough to get a low action, over a period of years. The best
> insurance against this happen in the short term is to have a high neck angle
> to start with, which means plenty of saddle showing above the bridge. If your
> guitar has 1/8" or so of saddle showing at the treble side with the action
> set low, then putting on heavier strings shouldn't be a problem. - Even if
> the geometry does deteriorate, there will be enough saddle removable to
> compensate. A useful test is to look down the tops of the frets from the
> headstock to the bridge, and estimate where they would point to if the neck
> was straight. They should point at the top of the bridge. If they point much
> lower than this (like halfway down the bridge), the guitar has a low neck
> angle and you might run out of saddle for lowering under increased string
> tension either now or at some point in the future.
>
>
> Bellying of the top is not a good indicator to too-high string tension, IMO,
> because most guitars built light enough to have a decent tone will do this.
> It might look ugly, but it is part of the package.
>
> Tony D
sorry, I should have statedthe type... I play a Korean made ES 335
clone.
The brand is Crafter The label says it's a SEG480TM/VTG-V if that means
anything... . it can be seen on the manufacturers website
* w w w .crafterguitars . com /gallery acoustic/seg480tm vtg v.php
Re: Big String Stresses
"ARLOWE" <ARLOWE@nose.picker . com > wrote in message
news:mn.14597d8526e26ec7.90583@nose.picker . com ...
> on 5/2/2008, Tony Done supposed :
>> "ARLOWE" <ARLOWE@nose.picker . com > wrote in message
>> news:mn.142e7d855a0682fa.90583@nose.picker . com ...
>>>I want to change strings on my guitar from 10,13,17,30,42,52 to heavier
>>> strings. My next set will be 11-54 gauge and I have been told that my
>>> guitar will not have a problem with the string tension. ( I hope I can
>>> fair as well :) )
>>> Eventually I would like to try even heavier strings, but I'm a bit
>>> concerned about maybe damaging my guitar....
>>> Are there any early signs indicating excessive stress "before" I
>>> discover I have a folding guitar?
>>>
>>> Cheers
>>> Arlowe
>>>
>>>
>>
>> I take it you are talking about an acoustic. The great majority of modern
>> acoustics are designed to take strings up to 13-56 at standard tuning.
>> However, guitars tend to slowly go banana-shaped under string tension, so
>> 13-56 may cause some guitars to reach a point where the saddle cannot be
>> lowered enough to get a low action, over a period of years. The best
>> insurance against this happen in the short term is to have a high neck
>> angle to start with, which means plenty of saddle showing above the
>> bridge. If your guitar has 1/8" or so of saddle showing at the treble
>> side with the action set low, then putting on heavier strings shouldn't
>> be a problem. - Even if the geometry does deteriorate, there will be
>> enough saddle removable to compensate. A useful test is to look down the
>> tops of the frets from the headstock to the bridge, and estimate where
>> they would point to if the neck was straight. They should point at the
>> top of the bridge. If they point much lower than this (like halfway down
>> the bridge), the guitar has a low neck angle and you might run out of
>> saddle for lowering under increased string tension either now or at some
>> point in the future.
>>
>>
>> Bellying of the top is not a good indicator to too-high string tension,
>> IMO, because most guitars built light enough to have a decent tone will
>> do this. It might look ugly, but it is part of the package.
>>
>> Tony D
>
> sorry, I should have statedthe type... I play a Korean made ES 335 clone.
> The brand is Crafter The label says it's a SEG480TM/VTG-V if that means
> anything... . it can be seen on the manufacturers website
> * w w w .crafterguitars . com /gallery_acoustic/seg480tm_vtg_v.php
>
>
In that case I would be very surprised if heavy strings did any harm, but
the warning sign would be cracks appearing in the finish around the neck
joint and fretboard extension. I have a 335 knockoff, a 1984 Westone, that I
use with 13-56 strings, no problem.
Tony D
"ARLOWE" <ARLOWE@nose.picker . com > wrote in message
news:mn.14597d8526e26ec7.90583@nose.picker . com ...
> on 5/2/2008, Tony Done supposed :
>> "ARLOWE" <ARLOWE@nose.picker . com > wrote in message
>> news:mn.142e7d855a0682fa.90583@nose.picker . com ...
>>>I want to change strings on my guitar from 10,13,17,30,42,52 to heavier
>>> strings. My next set will be 11-54 gauge and I have been told that my
>>> guitar will not have a problem with the string tension. ( I hope I can
>>> fair as well :) )
>>> Eventually I would like to try even heavier strings, but I'm a bit
>>> concerned about maybe damaging my guitar....
>>> Are there any early signs indicating excessive stress "before" I
>>> discover I have a folding guitar?
>>>
>>> Cheers
>>> Arlowe
>>>
>>>
>>
>> I take it you are talking about an acoustic. The great majority of modern
>> acoustics are designed to take strings up to 13-56 at standard tuning.
>> However, guitars tend to slowly go banana-shaped under string tension, so
>> 13-56 may cause some guitars to reach a point where the saddle cannot be
>> lowered enough to get a low action, over a period of years. The best
>> insurance against this happen in the short term is to have a high neck
>> angle to start with, which means plenty of saddle showing above the
>> bridge. If your guitar has 1/8" or so of saddle showing at the treble
>> side with the action set low, then putting on heavier strings shouldn't
>> be a problem. - Even if the geometry does deteriorate, there will be
>> enough saddle removable to compensate. A useful test is to look down the
>> tops of the frets from the headstock to the bridge, and estimate where
>> they would point to if the neck was straight. They should point at the
>> top of the bridge. If they point much lower than this (like halfway down
>> the bridge), the guitar has a low neck angle and you might run out of
>> saddle for lowering under increased string tension either now or at some
>> point in the future.
>>
>>
>> Bellying of the top is not a good indicator to too-high string tension,
>> IMO, because most guitars built light enough to have a decent tone will
>> do this. It might look ugly, but it is part of the package.
>>
>> Tony D
>
> sorry, I should have statedthe type... I play a Korean made ES 335 clone.
> The brand is Crafter The label says it's a SEG480TM/VTG-V if that means
> anything... . it can be seen on the manufacturers website
> * w w w .crafterguitars . com /gallery_acoustic/seg480tm_vtg_v.php
>
>
In that case I would be very surprised if heavy strings did any harm, but
the warning sign would be cracks appearing in the finish around the neck
joint and fretboard extension. I have a 335 knockoff, a 1984 Westone, that I
use with 13-56 strings, no problem.
Tony D
Re: Big String Stresses
Tony Done expressed precisely :
> "ARLOWE" <ARLOWE@nose.picker . com > wrote in message
> news:mn.14597d8526e26ec7.90583@nose.picker . com ...
>> on 5/2/2008, Tony Done supposed :
>>> "ARLOWE" <ARLOWE@nose.picker . com > wrote in message
>>> news:mn.142e7d855a0682fa.90583@nose.picker . com ...
>>>>I want to change strings on my guitar from 10,13,17,30,42,52 to heavier
>>>> strings. My next set will be 11-54 gauge and I have been told that my
>>>> guitar will not have a problem with the string tension. ( I hope I can
>>>> fair as well :) )
>>>> Eventually I would like to try even heavier strings, but I'm a bit
>>>> concerned about maybe damaging my guitar....
>>>> Are there any early signs indicating excessive stress "before" I discover
>>>> I have a folding guitar?
>>>>
>>>> Cheers
>>>> Arlowe
>>>>
>>>>
>>>
>>> I take it you are talking about an acoustic. The great majority of modern
>>> acoustics are designed to take strings up to 13-56 at standard tuning.
>>> However, guitars tend to slowly go banana-shaped under string tension, so
>>> 13-56 may cause some guitars to reach a point where the saddle cannot be
>>> lowered enough to get a low action, over a period of years. The best
>>> insurance against this happen in the short term is to have a high neck
>>> angle to start with, which means plenty of saddle showing above the
>>> bridge. If your guitar has 1/8" or so of saddle showing at the treble side
>>> with the action set low, then putting on heavier strings shouldn't be a
>>> problem. - Even if the geometry does deteriorate, there will be enough
>>> saddle removable to compensate. A useful test is to look down the tops of
>>> the frets from the headstock to the bridge, and estimate where they would
>>> point to if the neck was straight. They should point at the top of the
>>> bridge. If they point much lower than this (like halfway down the bridge),
>>> the guitar has a low neck angle and you might run out of saddle for
>>> lowering under increased string tension either now or at some point in the
>>> future.
>>>
>>>
>>> Bellying of the top is not a good indicator to too-high string tension,
>>> IMO, because most guitars built light enough to have a decent tone will do
>>> this. It might look ugly, but it is part of the package.
>>>
>>> Tony D
>>
>> sorry, I should have statedthe type... I play a Korean made ES 335 clone.
>> The brand is Crafter The label says it's a SEG480TM/VTG-V if that means
>> anything... . it can be seen on the manufacturers website
>> * w w w .crafterguitars . com /gallery acoustic/seg480tm vtg v.php
>>
>>
>
> In that case I would be very surprised if heavy strings did any harm, but the
> warning sign would be cracks appearing in the finish around the neck joint
> and fretboard extension. I have a 335 knockoff, a 1984 Westone, that I use
> with 13-56 strings, no problem.
>
>
>
> Tony D
Thanks Tony.
Tony Done expressed precisely :
> "ARLOWE" <ARLOWE@nose.picker . com > wrote in message
> news:mn.14597d8526e26ec7.90583@nose.picker . com ...
>> on 5/2/2008, Tony Done supposed :
>>> "ARLOWE" <ARLOWE@nose.picker . com > wrote in message
>>> news:mn.142e7d855a0682fa.90583@nose.picker . com ...
>>>>I want to change strings on my guitar from 10,13,17,30,42,52 to heavier
>>>> strings. My next set will be 11-54 gauge and I have been told that my
>>>> guitar will not have a problem with the string tension. ( I hope I can
>>>> fair as well :) )
>>>> Eventually I would like to try even heavier strings, but I'm a bit
>>>> concerned about maybe damaging my guitar....
>>>> Are there any early signs indicating excessive stress "before" I discover
>>>> I have a folding guitar?
>>>>
>>>> Cheers
>>>> Arlowe
>>>>
>>>>
>>>
>>> I take it you are talking about an acoustic. The great majority of modern
>>> acoustics are designed to take strings up to 13-56 at standard tuning.
>>> However, guitars tend to slowly go banana-shaped under string tension, so
>>> 13-56 may cause some guitars to reach a point where the saddle cannot be
>>> lowered enough to get a low action, over a period of years. The best
>>> insurance against this happen in the short term is to have a high neck
>>> angle to start with, which means plenty of saddle showing above the
>>> bridge. If your guitar has 1/8" or so of saddle showing at the treble side
>>> with the action set low, then putting on heavier strings shouldn't be a
>>> problem. - Even if the geometry does deteriorate, there will be enough
>>> saddle removable to compensate. A useful test is to look down the tops of
>>> the frets from the headstock to the bridge, and estimate where they would
>>> point to if the neck was straight. They should point at the top of the
>>> bridge. If they point much lower than this (like halfway down the bridge),
>>> the guitar has a low neck angle and you might run out of saddle for
>>> lowering under increased string tension either now or at some point in the
>>> future.
>>>
>>>
>>> Bellying of the top is not a good indicator to too-high string tension,
>>> IMO, because most guitars built light enough to have a decent tone will do
>>> this. It might look ugly, but it is part of the package.
>>>
>>> Tony D
>>
>> sorry, I should have statedthe type... I play a Korean made ES 335 clone.
>> The brand is Crafter The label says it's a SEG480TM/VTG-V if that means
>> anything... . it can be seen on the manufacturers website
>> * w w w .crafterguitars . com /gallery acoustic/seg480tm vtg v.php
>>
>>
>
> In that case I would be very surprised if heavy strings did any harm, but the
> warning sign would be cracks appearing in the finish around the neck joint
> and fretboard extension. I have a 335 knockoff, a 1984 Westone, that I use
> with 13-56 strings, no problem.
>
>
>
> Tony D
Thanks Tony.
Re: Big String Stresses
ARLOWE wrote:
> ...I play a Korean made ES 335 clone.
You could put 18s on a 335 with no problems.
If it has a trem you could put 24s on it
if you wanted.
Lumpy
In Your Ears for 40 Years
w w w .LumpyMusic . com
ARLOWE wrote:
> ...I play a Korean made ES 335 clone.
You could put 18s on a 335 with no problems.
If it has a trem you could put 24s on it
if you wanted.
Lumpy
In Your Ears for 40 Years
w w w .LumpyMusic . com
Re: Big String Stresses
On May 2, 8:52 am, "Lumpy" <lu...@digitalcartography . com > wrote:
> ARLOWE wrote:
> > ...I play a Korean made ES 335 clone.
>
> You could put 18s on a 335 with no problems.
> If it has a trem you could put 24s on it
> if you wanted.
>
> Lumpy
>
> In Your Ears for 40 Years
> w w w .LumpyMusic . com
Um...whats a trem got to do with it? Tried balancing a floyd rose with
an 18 high E have you?
On May 2, 8:52 am, "Lumpy" <lu...@digitalcartography . com > wrote:
> ARLOWE wrote:
> > ...I play a Korean made ES 335 clone.
>
> You could put 18s on a 335 with no problems.
> If it has a trem you could put 24s on it
> if you wanted.
>
> Lumpy
>
> In Your Ears for 40 Years
> w w w .LumpyMusic . com
Um...whats a trem got to do with it? Tried balancing a floyd rose with
an 18 high E have you?
Re: Big String Stresses
Lump:
> > You could put 18s on a 335 with no problems.
> > If it has a trem you could put 24s on it
> > if you wanted.
boardjunkie wrote:
> Um...whats a trem got to do with it?
> Tried balancing a floyd rose with
> an 18 high E have you?
Yes, I certainly have.
With a trem, the stress of the big wires
is stretched over the butt edge of the guitar,
via the tailpiece.
It's more stable than a hardtail, even though
a semihollow has a block of big wood under the
bridge.
Lumpy
In Your Ears for 40 Years
w w w .LumpyMusic . com
Lump:
> > You could put 18s on a 335 with no problems.
> > If it has a trem you could put 24s on it
> > if you wanted.
boardjunkie wrote:
> Um...whats a trem got to do with it?
> Tried balancing a floyd rose with
> an 18 high E have you?
Yes, I certainly have.
With a trem, the stress of the big wires
is stretched over the butt edge of the guitar,
via the tailpiece.
It's more stable than a hardtail, even though
a semihollow has a block of big wood under the
bridge.
Lumpy
In Your Ears for 40 Years
w w w .LumpyMusic . com
Re: Big String Stresses
"Lumpy" <lumpy@digitalcartography . com > wrote in message
news:681fa7F2qh2lhU1@mid.individual . net ...
> Lump:
>> > You could put 18s on a 335 with no problems.
>> > If it has a trem you could put 24s on it
>> > if you wanted.
>
> boardjunkie wrote:
>> Um...whats a trem got to do with it?
>> Tried balancing a floyd rose with
>> an 18 high E have you?
>
> Yes, I certainly have.
>
> With a trem, the stress of the big wires
> is stretched over the butt edge of the guitar,
> via the tailpiece.
>
> It's more stable than a hardtail, even though
> a semihollow has a block of big wood under the
> bridge.
>
>
> Lumpy
>
> In Your Ears for 40 Years
> w w w .LumpyMusic . com
>
>
>
Ahh, you're talking about a tailpiece-style Bigsby. I've sometimes wondered
how well a stop tailpiece or wraparound bridge takes the tension of heavy
strings. In fact, I asked about that when I bought a used LP Special
recently, the dealer said 13-56 wouldn't be a problem at standard tuning.
That's something else for the OP - look for finish cracking or movement
around the tailpiece bushes as another sign of undue stress - that is a
possibility because your Crafter might be using softer timber than Gibson.
Tony D
"Lumpy" <lumpy@digitalcartography . com > wrote in message
news:681fa7F2qh2lhU1@mid.individual . net ...
> Lump:
>> > You could put 18s on a 335 with no problems.
>> > If it has a trem you could put 24s on it
>> > if you wanted.
>
> boardjunkie wrote:
>> Um...whats a trem got to do with it?
>> Tried balancing a floyd rose with
>> an 18 high E have you?
>
> Yes, I certainly have.
>
> With a trem, the stress of the big wires
> is stretched over the butt edge of the guitar,
> via the tailpiece.
>
> It's more stable than a hardtail, even though
> a semihollow has a block of big wood under the
> bridge.
>
>
> Lumpy
>
> In Your Ears for 40 Years
> w w w .LumpyMusic . com
>
>
>
Ahh, you're talking about a tailpiece-style Bigsby. I've sometimes wondered
how well a stop tailpiece or wraparound bridge takes the tension of heavy
strings. In fact, I asked about that when I bought a used LP Special
recently, the dealer said 13-56 wouldn't be a problem at standard tuning.
That's something else for the OP - look for finish cracking or movement
around the tailpiece bushes as another sign of undue stress - that is a
possibility because your Crafter might be using softer timber than Gibson.
Tony D
Re: Big String Stresses
Tony Done wrote:
> Ahh, you're talking about a tailpiece-style Bigsby...
Even a bolt on trem spreads the anchor point out
over a larger area, more screws/bolts/anchors.
Lumpy
In Your Ears for 40 Years
w w w .LumpyMusic . com
Tony Done wrote:
> Ahh, you're talking about a tailpiece-style Bigsby...
Even a bolt on trem spreads the anchor point out
over a larger area, more screws/bolts/anchors.
Lumpy
In Your Ears for 40 Years
w w w .LumpyMusic . com
Re: Big String Stresses
"Lumpy" <lumpy@digitalcartography . com > wrote in message
news:681hbjF2quihrU1@mid.individual . net ...
> Tony Done wrote:
>> Ahh, you're talking about a tailpiece-style Bigsby...
>
> Even a bolt on trem spreads the anchor point out
> over a larger area, more screws/bolts/anchors.
>
>
> Lumpy
>
> In Your Ears for 40 Years
> w w w .LumpyMusic . com
>
>
>
True. Plus the fact that the screws go down tight to the wood, so there is
much less leverage than on the posts of a typical stop tailpiece, where they
are often set with a gap between the body and the tailpiece. There's another
thought for the OP. - If you use heavy strings, use the tailpiece in
"wraparound" mode, so that strings load from the front and come over the top
of the tailpiece, then screw the tailpiece down tight against the body (if
it doesn't make too much break angle over the saddles) for less leverage on
the posts. I realised I should have done this after I put new strings on my
LP Special, and cut them too short to reinstall. I'll do it when I put a new
set on.
Tony D
"Lumpy" <lumpy@digitalcartography . com > wrote in message
news:681hbjF2quihrU1@mid.individual . net ...
> Tony Done wrote:
>> Ahh, you're talking about a tailpiece-style Bigsby...
>
> Even a bolt on trem spreads the anchor point out
> over a larger area, more screws/bolts/anchors.
>
>
> Lumpy
>
> In Your Ears for 40 Years
> w w w .LumpyMusic . com
>
>
>
True. Plus the fact that the screws go down tight to the wood, so there is
much less leverage than on the posts of a typical stop tailpiece, where they
are often set with a gap between the body and the tailpiece. There's another
thought for the OP. - If you use heavy strings, use the tailpiece in
"wraparound" mode, so that strings load from the front and come over the top
of the tailpiece, then screw the tailpiece down tight against the body (if
it doesn't make too much break angle over the saddles) for less leverage on
the posts. I realised I should have done this after I put new strings on my
LP Special, and cut them too short to reinstall. I'll do it when I put a new
set on.
Tony D
Re: Big String Stresses
Tony Done used his keyboard to write :
> "Lumpy" <lumpy@digitalcartography . com > wrote in message
> news:681hbjF2quihrU1@mid.individual . net ...
>> Tony Done wrote:
>>> Ahh, you're talking about a tailpiece-style Bigsby...
>>
>> Even a bolt on trem spreads the anchor point out
>> over a larger area, more screws/bolts/anchors.
>>
>>
>> Lumpy
>>
>> In Your Ears for 40 Years
>> w w w .LumpyMusic . com
>>
>>
>>
>
> True. Plus the fact that the screws go down tight to the wood, so there is
> much less leverage than on the posts of a typical stop tailpiece, where they
> are often set with a gap between the body and the tailpiece. There's another
> thought for the OP. - If you use heavy strings, use the tailpiece in
> "wraparound" mode, so that strings load from the front and come over the top
> of the tailpiece, then screw the tailpiece down tight against the body (if it
> doesn't make too much break angle over the saddles) for less leverage on the
> posts. I realised I should have done this after I put new strings on my LP
> Special, and cut them too short to reinstall. I'll do it when I put a new set
> on.
>
> Tony D
The OP's guitar is a hardtail and will stay that way.....maybe someday
if i am a good boy and I practice really hard my missus will let me buy
myself an L-5 or a super-400....
Hopefully I'll get to try your advice in a few years :)
Tony Done used his keyboard to write :
> "Lumpy" <lumpy@digitalcartography . com > wrote in message
> news:681hbjF2quihrU1@mid.individual . net ...
>> Tony Done wrote:
>>> Ahh, you're talking about a tailpiece-style Bigsby...
>>
>> Even a bolt on trem spreads the anchor point out
>> over a larger area, more screws/bolts/anchors.
>>
>>
>> Lumpy
>>
>> In Your Ears for 40 Years
>> w w w .LumpyMusic . com
>>
>>
>>
>
> True. Plus the fact that the screws go down tight to the wood, so there is
> much less leverage than on the posts of a typical stop tailpiece, where they
> are often set with a gap between the body and the tailpiece. There's another
> thought for the OP. - If you use heavy strings, use the tailpiece in
> "wraparound" mode, so that strings load from the front and come over the top
> of the tailpiece, then screw the tailpiece down tight against the body (if it
> doesn't make too much break angle over the saddles) for less leverage on the
> posts. I realised I should have done this after I put new strings on my LP
> Special, and cut them too short to reinstall. I'll do it when I put a new set
> on.
>
> Tony D
The OP's guitar is a hardtail and will stay that way.....maybe someday
if i am a good boy and I practice really hard my missus will let me buy
myself an L-5 or a super-400....
Hopefully I'll get to try your advice in a few years :)
Re: Big String Stresses
"ARLOWE" <ARLOWE@nose.picker . com > wrote in message
news:mn.1a227d8585094a18.90583@nose.picker . com ...
> Tony Done used his keyboard to write :
>> "Lumpy" <lumpy@digitalcartography . com > wrote in message
>> news:681hbjF2quihrU1@mid.individual . net ...
>>> Tony Done wrote:
>>>> Ahh, you're talking about a tailpiece-style Bigsby...
>>>
>>> Even a bolt on trem spreads the anchor point out
>>> over a larger area, more screws/bolts/anchors.
>>>
>>>
>>> Lumpy
>>>
>>> In Your Ears for 40 Years
>>> w w w .LumpyMusic . com
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>
>> True. Plus the fact that the screws go down tight to the wood, so there
>> is much less leverage than on the posts of a typical stop tailpiece,
>> where they are often set with a gap between the body and the tailpiece.
>> There's another thought for the OP. - If you use heavy strings, use the
>> tailpiece in "wraparound" mode, so that strings load from the front and
>> come over the top of the tailpiece, then screw the tailpiece down tight
>> against the body (if it doesn't make too much break angle over the
>> saddles) for less leverage on the posts. I realised I should have done
>> this after I put new strings on my LP Special, and cut them too short to
>> reinstall. I'll do it when I put a new set on.
>>
>> Tony D
>
> The OP's guitar is a hardtail and will stay that way.....maybe someday if
> i am a good boy and I practice really hard my missus will let me buy
> myself an L-5 or a super-400....
> Hopefully I'll get to try your advice in a few years :)
>
>
Oh, I'm not suggesting fitting a trem, I'm suggesting that you lower the
stop tailpiece and use it as a wraparound to reduce leverage on the
tailpiece posts.
Tony D
"ARLOWE" <ARLOWE@nose.picker . com > wrote in message
news:mn.1a227d8585094a18.90583@nose.picker . com ...
> Tony Done used his keyboard to write :
>> "Lumpy" <lumpy@digitalcartography . com > wrote in message
>> news:681hbjF2quihrU1@mid.individual . net ...
>>> Tony Done wrote:
>>>> Ahh, you're talking about a tailpiece-style Bigsby...
>>>
>>> Even a bolt on trem spreads the anchor point out
>>> over a larger area, more screws/bolts/anchors.
>>>
>>>
>>> Lumpy
>>>
>>> In Your Ears for 40 Years
>>> w w w .LumpyMusic . com
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>
>> True. Plus the fact that the screws go down tight to the wood, so there
>> is much less leverage than on the posts of a typical stop tailpiece,
>> where they are often set with a gap between the body and the tailpiece.
>> There's another thought for the OP. - If you use heavy strings, use the
>> tailpiece in "wraparound" mode, so that strings load from the front and
>> come over the top of the tailpiece, then screw the tailpiece down tight
>> against the body (if it doesn't make too much break angle over the
>> saddles) for less leverage on the posts. I realised I should have done
>> this after I put new strings on my LP Special, and cut them too short to
>> reinstall. I'll do it when I put a new set on.
>>
>> Tony D
>
> The OP's guitar is a hardtail and will stay that way.....maybe someday if
> i am a good boy and I practice really hard my missus will let me buy
> myself an L-5 or a super-400....
> Hopefully I'll get to try your advice in a few years :)
>
>
Oh, I'm not suggesting fitting a trem, I'm suggesting that you lower the
stop tailpiece and use it as a wraparound to reduce leverage on the
tailpiece posts.
Tony D
Re: Big String Stresses
Lumpy laid this down on his screen :
> ARLOWE wrote:
>> ...I play a Korean made ES 335 clone.
>
> You could put 18s on a 335 with no problems.
> If it has a trem you could put 24s on it
> if you wanted.
>
>
> Lumpy
>
> In Your Ears for 40 Years
> w w w .LumpyMusic . com
I don't think I'll try anything that big....
jeezus...and I was intimidated by 12s......
Lumpy laid this down on his screen :
> ARLOWE wrote:
>> ...I play a Korean made ES 335 clone.
>
> You could put 18s on a 335 with no problems.
> If it has a trem you could put 24s on it
> if you wanted.
>
>
> Lumpy
>
> In Your Ears for 40 Years
> w w w .LumpyMusic . com
I don't think I'll try anything that big....
jeezus...and I was intimidated by 12s......
