2000 Concorde LXi - Replace Inner Control Rods or Just Bushings

My 2000 Chrysler Concorde LXi was found to need a right inner control
arm according to a repair shop yesterday. I was told the job requires
that the plenum be removed first. When I got home and plowed into my
factory service manual I bought from Chrysler, I found the repair
doesn=92t require the removal of the plenum. A 1995 Concorde I owned had
the same problem so I pulled my file and found the only parts I bought
were two #4695385 bushings.

Assuming there=92s been little ware on the knuckle into which this
bushings insert, can I be reasonably certain all I need to buy are two
bushings rather than complete inner control arms? Can I replace the
bushing without removing the arms themselves and, if so, is there any
trick to inserting the bushings since leaning over the car to mid-
firewall level seems to be a bit awkward for an old guy in his
60's.... like soaping the bushings with liquid detergent first?

jaygreg wrote:
> My 2000 Chrysler Concorde LXi was found to need a right inner control
> arm according to a repair shop yesterday. I was told the job requires
> that the plenum be removed first. When I got home and plowed into my
> factory service manual I bought from Chrysler, I found the repair
> doesn’t require the removal of the plenum. A 1995 Concorde I owned had
> the same problem so I pulled my file and found the only parts I bought
> were two #4695385 bushings.
>
> Assuming there’s been little ware on the knuckle into which this
> bushings insert, can I be reasonably certain all I need to buy are two
> bushings rather than complete inner control arms? Can I replace the
> bushing without removing the arms themselves and, if so, is there any
> trick to inserting the bushings since leaning over the car to mid-
> firewall level seems to be a bit awkward for an old guy in his
> 60's.... like soaping the bushings with liquid detergent first?

We may have a terminology problem here. I can't tell if you're talking
about the control arm bushing (there's no inner and outer on that), *OR*
if you're talking about the inner tie rod bushing. Both do go bad.

For the inner tie rod bushing, the cowling at the bottom of the
windshield needs to come off.

For the control arm (attaches the bottom of the front wheel to the
frame), nothing but the control arm needs to come off (with that corner
jacked up and on jack stands).

That's why I'm uncertain about which part you are talking about.

*IF* you're talking about the control arm bushing, I'd replace the whole
control arm because it's $40 to $60, and bh the time you pay the labor
of pressing the old bushing out and the new bushing in, you might as
well replace the whole thing. *AND* that way, you get a new ball joint
on the other end of the control arm - chances are it's about worn out
too, but even if not, why take the chance just to questionably save a
very few dollars.

*IF* you're talking about the inner tie rod bushings, then - yes - just
replace the bushings. Have them replaced on both right and left inner
tie rods at the same time since most of the labor is getting into the
area, and those bushings are known for wearing out. And you get
bushings for both in one set.

Re-reading your last paragraph, it seems to me that you are talking
about the inner tie rod bushings and not the control arm or control arm
bushing.

The aftermarket kits for those bushings are two-part bushings. No
grease necessary to install - one half pushes into one side of the hole,
the other half from the other side - no pressing needed.

I prefer to detach the outer tie rod from the strut bracket and pull the
whole inner and outer tie rod assembly out as an assembly. It can be
difficult to get things lined up perfectly to get the inner tie rod
bolts started back into the steering rack without cross-threading.
Having the other end detached makes that part easy. Then, getting the
outer tie rod stud into back into the strut bracket after the inner tie
rod bolt is in is very easy.

HTH!

Bill Putney
(To reply by e-mail, replace the last letter of the alphabet in my
address with the letter 'x')

On Jun 28, 9:39 am, Bill Putney <b...@kinez . net > wrote:
> jaygreg wrote:
> > My 2000 Chrysler Concorde LXi was found to need a right inner control
> > arm according to a repair shop yesterday. I was told the job requires
> > that the plenum be removed first. When I got home and plowed into my
> > factory service manual I bought from Chrysler, I found the repair
> > doesn=92t require the removal of the plenum. A 1995 Concorde I owned ha=
d
> > the same problem so I pulled my file and found the only parts I bought
> > were two #4695385 bushings.
>
> > Assuming there=92s been little ware on the knuckle into which this
> > bushings insert, can I be reasonably certain all I need to buy are two
> > bushings rather than complete inner control arms? Can I replace the
> > bushing without removing the arms themselves and, if so, is there any
> > trick to inserting the bushings since leaning over the car to mid-
> > firewall level seems to be a bit awkward for an old guy in his
> > 60's.... like soaping the bushings with liquid detergent first?
>
> We may have a terminology problem here. I can't tell if you're talking
> about the control arm bushing (there's no inner and outer on that), *OR*
> if you're talking about the inner tie rod bushing. Both do go bad.
>
> For the inner tie rod bushing, the cowling at the bottom of the
> windshield needs to come off.
>
> For the control arm (attaches the bottom of the front wheel to the
> frame), nothing but the control arm needs to come off (with that corner
> jacked up and on jack stands).
>
> That's why I'm uncertain about which part you are talking about.
>
> *IF* you're talking about the control arm bushing, I'd replace the whole
> control arm because it's $40 to $60, and bh the time you pay the labor
> of pressing the old bushing out and the new bushing in, you might as
> well replace the whole thing. *AND* that way, you get a new ball joint
> on the other end of the control arm - chances are it's about worn out
> too, but even if not, why take the chance just to questionably save a
> very few dollars.
>
> *IF* you're talking about the inner tie rod bushings, then - yes - just
> replace the bushings. Have them replaced on both right and left inner
> tie rods at the same time since most of the labor is getting into the
> area, and those bushings are known for wearing out. And you get
> bushings for both in one set.
>
> Re-reading your last paragraph, it seems to me that you are talking
> about the inner tie rod bushings and not the control arm or control arm
> bushing.
>
> The aftermarket kits for those bushings are two-part bushings. No
> grease necessary to install - one half pushes into one side of the hole,
> the other half from the other side - no pressing needed.
>
> I prefer to detach the outer tie rod from the strut bracket and pull the
> whole inner and outer tie rod assembly out as an assembly. It can be
> difficult to get things lined up perfectly to get the inner tie rod
> bolts started back into the steering rack without cross-threading.
> Having the other end detached makes that part easy. Then, getting the
> outer tie rod stud into back into the strut bracket after the inner tie
> rod bolt is in is very easy.
>
> HTH!
>
> Bill Putney
> (To reply by e-mail, replace the last letter of the alphabet in my
> address with the letter 'x')

Thanks, Bill. It's the inner tie rod that's the issue. I bought the
1995 bushings from Chrysler but don't recall them being split. Perhaps
that's new. Or are you talking about third-party after market parts
(Advance Auto Parts etc.)? Recommend genuine Chrysler or whatever
third-party supplies? After all... this is the second Chrysler I've
owned and bout sets of bushings failed around 90000 miles.

jaygreg wrote:

> Thanks, Bill. It's the inner tie rod that's the issue. I bought the
> 1995 bushings from Chrysler but don't recall them being split. Perhaps
> that's new. Or are you talking about third-party after market parts
> (Advance Auto Parts etc.)? Recommend genuine Chrysler or whatever
> third-party supplies? After all... this is the second Chrysler I've
> owned and bout sets of bushings failed around 90000 miles.

You're welcome. The aftermarket bushings are as good as the OEM's on
this part, and yes - the aftermarkets are split. Not sure about the
replacement OEM's, but I doubt it. Come to think of it, what would be
bad about taking the one-piece bushing and cutting it thru the center
with a knife?

I replaced those on one of my Concordes - the one that just turned over
200k miles - about 4 years ago, and they're still good (aftermarkets).

Bill Putney
(To reply by e-mail, replace the last letter of the alphabet in my
address with the letter 'x')