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Engine won't turn over after positive battery clamp came off
Engine won't turn over after positive battery clamp came off
I just went down to start my 1995 Honda Civic Ex and first noticed that I
didn't hear the beeps from the alarm. When I was able to start the engine, I
opened the hood and realized the positive battery clamp completely came off
the positive terminal. I put it back on (it's still loose and the screw/nut
combo can't be tightened any more than it currently is) and while I heard
the ignition, the engine wouldn't turn over.
I see the battery and gas tank lights, along with the abs, etc. on the dash
panel.
The gas gauge is almost, but not quite on empty, which usually means I have a
few gallons left (the low gas warning light hadn't come on).
Is it possible that the battery is drained because the negative clamp was
still connected? After the positive clamp was reattached (but still not
tight), I was able to turn the alarm on and off. When I try to start the
car, the sound of the engine is much stronger than it sounds when one knows
the battery is completely drained.
I'm going to bring down my portable battery and see if I can start the car
that way. I just bought this Kirkland battery 2 months ago, and had my car
repair place install it.
I just went down to start my 1995 Honda Civic Ex and first noticed that I
didn't hear the beeps from the alarm. When I was able to start the engine, I
opened the hood and realized the positive battery clamp completely came off
the positive terminal. I put it back on (it's still loose and the screw/nut
combo can't be tightened any more than it currently is) and while I heard
the ignition, the engine wouldn't turn over.
I see the battery and gas tank lights, along with the abs, etc. on the dash
panel.
The gas gauge is almost, but not quite on empty, which usually means I have a
few gallons left (the low gas warning light hadn't come on).
Is it possible that the battery is drained because the negative clamp was
still connected? After the positive clamp was reattached (but still not
tight), I was able to turn the alarm on and off. When I try to start the
car, the sound of the engine is much stronger than it sounds when one knows
the battery is completely drained.
I'm going to bring down my portable battery and see if I can start the car
that way. I just bought this Kirkland battery 2 months ago, and had my car
repair place install it.
Re: Engine won't turn over after positive battery clamp came off
GasUsed2b35centspg wrote:
When I was able to start the engine, I
>opened the hood and realized the positive battery clamp completely came off
>the positive terminal.
Sorry - what I meant to write was "when I was able to look under the hood, I
ealized the positive battery clamp completely came off the positive terminal.
GasUsed2b35centspg wrote:
When I was able to start the engine, I
>opened the hood and realized the positive battery clamp completely came off
>the positive terminal.
Sorry - what I meant to write was "when I was able to look under the hood, I
ealized the positive battery clamp completely came off the positive terminal.
Re: Engine won't turn over after positive battery clamp came off
>
>Is it possible that the battery is drained because the negative clamp was
>still connected? After the positive clamp was reattached (but still not
>tight), I was able to turn the alarm on and off. When I try to start the
>car, the sound of the engine is much stronger than it sounds when one knows
>the battery is completely drained.
>
>I'm going to bring down my portable battery and see if I can start the car
>that way. I just bought this Kirkland battery 2 months ago, and had my car
>repair place install it.
It sounds like the engine is spinning it just doesn't start. Is this
correct?
If there are also other wires on the plosive clamp assembly make sure
they are all still connected and have a good connection. Unfortunately
the cable most likely came off when you were last driving the car.
The alternator can go kind of nuts when there is no battery connected
and it is possible that you have other damage now. Hopefully it is
limited to a fusible link or two.
If someone put this battery in for you I would be on the phone
tomorrow morning raising kane! No sense in that kind of shoddy work.
Steve B.
>
>Is it possible that the battery is drained because the negative clamp was
>still connected? After the positive clamp was reattached (but still not
>tight), I was able to turn the alarm on and off. When I try to start the
>car, the sound of the engine is much stronger than it sounds when one knows
>the battery is completely drained.
>
>I'm going to bring down my portable battery and see if I can start the car
>that way. I just bought this Kirkland battery 2 months ago, and had my car
>repair place install it.
It sounds like the engine is spinning it just doesn't start. Is this
correct?
If there are also other wires on the plosive clamp assembly make sure
they are all still connected and have a good connection. Unfortunately
the cable most likely came off when you were last driving the car.
The alternator can go kind of nuts when there is no battery connected
and it is possible that you have other damage now. Hopefully it is
limited to a fusible link or two.
If someone put this battery in for you I would be on the phone
tomorrow morning raising kane! No sense in that kind of shoddy work.
Steve B.
Re: Engine won't turn over after positive battery clamp came off
If the clamp is loose you won't be able to draw the 250 amps the starter
needs to turn over the engine. Shim the clamp and tighten it then see if
there is a problem.
"GasUsed2b35centspg" <u43225@uwe> wrote in message news:8353a27065811@uwe...
>I just went down to start my 1995 Honda Civic Ex and first noticed that I
> didn't hear the beeps from the alarm. When I was able to start the
> engine, I
> opened the hood and realized the positive battery clamp completely came
> off
> the positive terminal. I put it back on (it's still loose and the
> screw/nut
> combo can't be tightened any more than it currently is) and while I heard
> the ignition, the engine wouldn't turn over.
> I see the battery and gas tank lights, along with the abs, etc. on the
> dash
> panel.
>
> The gas gauge is almost, but not quite on empty, which usually means I
> have a
> few gallons left (the low gas warning light hadn't come on).
>
> Is it possible that the battery is drained because the negative clamp was
> still connected? After the positive clamp was reattached (but still not
> tight), I was able to turn the alarm on and off. When I try to start the
> car, the sound of the engine is much stronger than it sounds when one
> knows
> the battery is completely drained.
>
> I'm going to bring down my portable battery and see if I can start the car
> that way. I just bought this Kirkland battery 2 months ago, and had my
> car
> repair place install it.
>
If the clamp is loose you won't be able to draw the 250 amps the starter
needs to turn over the engine. Shim the clamp and tighten it then see if
there is a problem.
"GasUsed2b35centspg" <u43225@uwe> wrote in message news:8353a27065811@uwe...
>I just went down to start my 1995 Honda Civic Ex and first noticed that I
> didn't hear the beeps from the alarm. When I was able to start the
> engine, I
> opened the hood and realized the positive battery clamp completely came
> off
> the positive terminal. I put it back on (it's still loose and the
> screw/nut
> combo can't be tightened any more than it currently is) and while I heard
> the ignition, the engine wouldn't turn over.
> I see the battery and gas tank lights, along with the abs, etc. on the
> dash
> panel.
>
> The gas gauge is almost, but not quite on empty, which usually means I
> have a
> few gallons left (the low gas warning light hadn't come on).
>
> Is it possible that the battery is drained because the negative clamp was
> still connected? After the positive clamp was reattached (but still not
> tight), I was able to turn the alarm on and off. When I try to start the
> car, the sound of the engine is much stronger than it sounds when one
> knows
> the battery is completely drained.
>
> I'm going to bring down my portable battery and see if I can start the car
> that way. I just bought this Kirkland battery 2 months ago, and had my
> car
> repair place install it.
>
Re: Engine won't turn over after positive battery clamp came off
> I just went down to start my 1995 Honda Civic Ex and first noticed that I
> didn't hear the beeps from the alarm. When I was able to start the engine, I
> opened the hood and realized the positive battery clamp completely came off
> the positive terminal. I put it back on (it's still loose and the screw/nut
> combo can't be tightened any more than it currently is) and while I heard
> the ignition, the engine wouldn't turn over.
The starter needs a LOT of power to turn the engine over properly. As
long as that clamp is loose, it won't start.
You can do one of two things... Buy a replacement clamp and repair the
positive wire, OR they make lead post covers that make the post larger
and then you can clamp over that.
I vote for replacing the clamp.
--
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> I just went down to start my 1995 Honda Civic Ex and first noticed that I
> didn't hear the beeps from the alarm. When I was able to start the engine, I
> opened the hood and realized the positive battery clamp completely came off
> the positive terminal. I put it back on (it's still loose and the screw/nut
> combo can't be tightened any more than it currently is) and while I heard
> the ignition, the engine wouldn't turn over.
The starter needs a LOT of power to turn the engine over properly. As
long as that clamp is loose, it won't start.
You can do one of two things... Buy a replacement clamp and repair the
positive wire, OR they make lead post covers that make the post larger
and then you can clamp over that.
I vote for replacing the clamp.
--
Fight Usenet Spam!!! - * improve-usenet.org:80/
Want a good newsgroup reader that will filter out GoogleGroups spam?
Try MesNews - * w w w .mesnews . net /gb/
If you want your posts to be seen, DON'T USE GOOGLE GROUPS!
Re: Engine won't turn over after positive battery clamp came off
Calab wrote:
>
>You can do one of two things... Buy a replacement clamp and repair the
>positive wire, OR they make lead post covers that make the post larger
>and then you can clamp over that.
>
>I vote for replacing the clamp.
>
Thanks for your responses.
Should I have any problem starting the car with my Prestone jumper battery,
which has never failed before (even when prior batteries were completely
drained)? As I said, I just noticed that the clamp was off this afternoon,
and I hadn't driven the car in a day and a half. At the very least, I'd
like to drive the car back to the service station and let them fix or replace
the clamp at no charge
If I pull off the loose positive clamp, should I take off the negative one
too, before I use a wrench to tighten the clamp nut?
I read another post here stating that the negative post of the battery
controls the rest of the car (alarm, lights, etc.). If that's true, can this
battery recharge itself or will I need to replace the battery?
Calab wrote:
>
>You can do one of two things... Buy a replacement clamp and repair the
>positive wire, OR they make lead post covers that make the post larger
>and then you can clamp over that.
>
>I vote for replacing the clamp.
>
Thanks for your responses.
Should I have any problem starting the car with my Prestone jumper battery,
which has never failed before (even when prior batteries were completely
drained)? As I said, I just noticed that the clamp was off this afternoon,
and I hadn't driven the car in a day and a half. At the very least, I'd
like to drive the car back to the service station and let them fix or replace
the clamp at no charge
If I pull off the loose positive clamp, should I take off the negative one
too, before I use a wrench to tighten the clamp nut?
I read another post here stating that the negative post of the battery
controls the rest of the car (alarm, lights, etc.). If that's true, can this
battery recharge itself or will I need to replace the battery?
Re: Engine won't turn over after positive battery clamp came off
In article <83563e079323e@uwe>, "GasUsed2b35centspg" <u43225@uwe>
wrote:
> Calab wrote:
> >
> >You can do one of two things... Buy a replacement clamp and repair the
> >positive wire, OR they make lead post covers that make the post larger
> >and then you can clamp over that.
> >
> >I vote for replacing the clamp.
> >
>
>
> Thanks for your responses.
>
> Should I have any problem starting the car with my Prestone jumper battery,
> which has never failed before (even when prior batteries were completely
> drained)? As I said, I just noticed that the clamp was off this afternoon,
> and I hadn't driven the car in a day and a half. At the very least, I'd
> like to drive the car back to the service station and let them fix or replace
> the clamp at no charge
>
> If I pull off the loose positive clamp, should I take off the negative one
> too, before I use a wrench to tighten the clamp nut?
>
> I read another post here stating that the negative post of the battery
> controls the rest of the car (alarm, lights, etc.). If that's true, can this
> battery recharge itself or will I need to replace the battery?
When wrenching on the battery, it's generally a *REALLY* good idea to
pull the negative clamp before doing anything on the positive side -
When the negative side is hooked up, any contact between the positive
post and the body of the car equals "dead short" - The level of
"interesting" that results from creating such a short can vary from
"look at all the pretty sparks" to "Wow... I didn't know a wrench could
be turned into a puddle of glowing hot liquid so quickly. Boy, it really
sucks having a wrench turn to liquid and dribble through your
fingers..." or a near infinite number of variations between those
extremes. So yes, it's a good idea to disconnect the negative side
before you put a wrench n the positive side. Since the negative post is
already connected to the rest of the car, it doesn't matter if you bang
the wrench against the body while tightening (or loosening) the bolt on
that side.
As far as the "negative side controls the rest of the car" - I don't
recall seeing that post, but if that's what got said, whoever wrote it
was talking out his ass about something he clearly knows *ABSOLUTELY
NOTHING* about.
As for the rest of your trouble, like others have said, get that clamp
tight. And don't be horribly surprised if the alternator is toast - As
stated elsewhere, the alternator can do some really odd things when the
load presented by the battery isn't in the circuit like it should be. As
an example, I had a cable shake loose on a washboard road one night
while doing my paper route. Within a matter of seconds, I lost every
light bulb that was powered up at the time - Both headlights and all of
the marker lights fried, the dome light popped, the bulb in the radio
puked, and I had to replace every one of the "light up the instrument
panel" bulbs. Fortunately, the vehicle was an older rig with no computer
to be fried by the massive over-voltage, so I was able to drive it home
once daylight came and I could see to drive, but I have little doubt
that if it had a computer module in it, that would probably have cooked
off and outright killed the vehicle.
--
Don Bruder - dakidd@sonic . net - If your "From:" address isn't on my whitelist,
or the subject of the message doesn't contain the exact text "PopperAndShadow"
somewhere, any message sent to this address will go in the garbage without my
ever knowing it arrived. Sorry... < * w w w .sonic . net /~dakidd> for more info
In article <83563e079323e@uwe>, "GasUsed2b35centspg" <u43225@uwe>
wrote:
> Calab wrote:
> >
> >You can do one of two things... Buy a replacement clamp and repair the
> >positive wire, OR they make lead post covers that make the post larger
> >and then you can clamp over that.
> >
> >I vote for replacing the clamp.
> >
>
>
> Thanks for your responses.
>
> Should I have any problem starting the car with my Prestone jumper battery,
> which has never failed before (even when prior batteries were completely
> drained)? As I said, I just noticed that the clamp was off this afternoon,
> and I hadn't driven the car in a day and a half. At the very least, I'd
> like to drive the car back to the service station and let them fix or replace
> the clamp at no charge
>
> If I pull off the loose positive clamp, should I take off the negative one
> too, before I use a wrench to tighten the clamp nut?
>
> I read another post here stating that the negative post of the battery
> controls the rest of the car (alarm, lights, etc.). If that's true, can this
> battery recharge itself or will I need to replace the battery?
When wrenching on the battery, it's generally a *REALLY* good idea to
pull the negative clamp before doing anything on the positive side -
When the negative side is hooked up, any contact between the positive
post and the body of the car equals "dead short" - The level of
"interesting" that results from creating such a short can vary from
"look at all the pretty sparks" to "Wow... I didn't know a wrench could
be turned into a puddle of glowing hot liquid so quickly. Boy, it really
sucks having a wrench turn to liquid and dribble through your
fingers..." or a near infinite number of variations between those
extremes. So yes, it's a good idea to disconnect the negative side
before you put a wrench n the positive side. Since the negative post is
already connected to the rest of the car, it doesn't matter if you bang
the wrench against the body while tightening (or loosening) the bolt on
that side.
As far as the "negative side controls the rest of the car" - I don't
recall seeing that post, but if that's what got said, whoever wrote it
was talking out his ass about something he clearly knows *ABSOLUTELY
NOTHING* about.
As for the rest of your trouble, like others have said, get that clamp
tight. And don't be horribly surprised if the alternator is toast - As
stated elsewhere, the alternator can do some really odd things when the
load presented by the battery isn't in the circuit like it should be. As
an example, I had a cable shake loose on a washboard road one night
while doing my paper route. Within a matter of seconds, I lost every
light bulb that was powered up at the time - Both headlights and all of
the marker lights fried, the dome light popped, the bulb in the radio
puked, and I had to replace every one of the "light up the instrument
panel" bulbs. Fortunately, the vehicle was an older rig with no computer
to be fried by the massive over-voltage, so I was able to drive it home
once daylight came and I could see to drive, but I have little doubt
that if it had a computer module in it, that would probably have cooked
off and outright killed the vehicle.
--
Don Bruder - dakidd@sonic . net - If your "From:" address isn't on my whitelist,
or the subject of the message doesn't contain the exact text "PopperAndShadow"
somewhere, any message sent to this address will go in the garbage without my
ever knowing it arrived. Sorry... < * w w w .sonic . net /~dakidd> for more info
Re: Engine won't turn over after positive battery clamp came off
Don Bruder4/28/08 1:11J7idnaL8bagdwYjVnZ2dnUVZ_tKinZ2d@comcast . com
>> If I pull off the loose positive clamp, should I take off the negative one
>> too, before I use a wrench to tighten the clamp nut?
>>
>> I read another post here stating that the negative post of the battery
>> controls the rest of the car (alarm, lights, etc.). If that's true, can this
>> battery recharge itself or will I need to replace the battery?
>
> When wrenching on the battery, it's generally a *REALLY* good idea to
> pull the negative clamp before doing anything on the positive side -
> When the negative side is hooked up, any contact between the positive
> post and the body of the car equals "dead short" - The level of
> "interesting" that results from creating such a short can vary from
> "look at all the pretty sparks" to "Wow... I didn't know a wrench could
> be turned into a puddle of glowing hot liquid so quickly. Boy, it really
> sucks having a wrench turn to liquid and dribble through your
> fingers..." or a near infinite number of variations between those
> extremes. So yes, it's a good idea to disconnect the negative side
> before you put a wrench n the positive side. Since the negative post is
> already connected to the rest of the car, it doesn't matter if you bang
> the wrench against the body while tightening (or loosening) the bolt on
> that side.
<snip>
Dan, what a great sense of humor. I would like to add another caveat about
working on batteries. Whenever working on batteries, always wear a good pair
of wrap around safety goggles. During normal charging processes, the battery
generates hydrogen gas which mixes with the oxygen inside the battery.
During some conditions (like a dead short with a wrench or an internal
short) it is possible for that gas mixture to ignite (read explode). When it
does, the battery literally blows up and sprays sulfuric acid all over
everything. Your eyesight is too precious to play fast and loose with. Never
jump start a car without protecting your eyes. You should also make the
final connection to a grounded body part well away from the battery so if
there is a spark it won't occur near a battery. Read up on proper jump start
procedure before you need it to get all the details. Do it right.
--
Pickleman
halfsour@roadyourpantsrunner . com
Please remove "yourpants" to reply
1998 Civic HX MT with 142K
2000 CRV EX MT with 98K
Don Bruder4/28/08 1:11J7idnaL8bagdwYjVnZ2dnUVZ_tKinZ2d@comcast . com
>> If I pull off the loose positive clamp, should I take off the negative one
>> too, before I use a wrench to tighten the clamp nut?
>>
>> I read another post here stating that the negative post of the battery
>> controls the rest of the car (alarm, lights, etc.). If that's true, can this
>> battery recharge itself or will I need to replace the battery?
>
> When wrenching on the battery, it's generally a *REALLY* good idea to
> pull the negative clamp before doing anything on the positive side -
> When the negative side is hooked up, any contact between the positive
> post and the body of the car equals "dead short" - The level of
> "interesting" that results from creating such a short can vary from
> "look at all the pretty sparks" to "Wow... I didn't know a wrench could
> be turned into a puddle of glowing hot liquid so quickly. Boy, it really
> sucks having a wrench turn to liquid and dribble through your
> fingers..." or a near infinite number of variations between those
> extremes. So yes, it's a good idea to disconnect the negative side
> before you put a wrench n the positive side. Since the negative post is
> already connected to the rest of the car, it doesn't matter if you bang
> the wrench against the body while tightening (or loosening) the bolt on
> that side.
<snip>
Dan, what a great sense of humor. I would like to add another caveat about
working on batteries. Whenever working on batteries, always wear a good pair
of wrap around safety goggles. During normal charging processes, the battery
generates hydrogen gas which mixes with the oxygen inside the battery.
During some conditions (like a dead short with a wrench or an internal
short) it is possible for that gas mixture to ignite (read explode). When it
does, the battery literally blows up and sprays sulfuric acid all over
everything. Your eyesight is too precious to play fast and loose with. Never
jump start a car without protecting your eyes. You should also make the
final connection to a grounded body part well away from the battery so if
there is a spark it won't occur near a battery. Read up on proper jump start
procedure before you need it to get all the details. Do it right.
--
Pickleman
halfsour@roadyourpantsrunner . com
Please remove "yourpants" to reply
1998 Civic HX MT with 142K
2000 CRV EX MT with 98K
Re: Engine won't turn over after positive battery clamp came off
On Apr 28, 12:38 am, "GasUsed2b35centspg" <u43225@uwe> wrote:
> Calab wrote:
>
> >You can do one of two things... Buy a replacement clamp and repair the
> >positive wire, OR they make lead post covers that make the post larger
> >and then you can clamp over that.
>
> >I vote for replacing the clamp.
>
> Thanks for your responses.
>
> Should I have any problem starting the car with my Prestone jumper battery=
,
> which has never failed before (even when prior batteries were completely
> drained)?
Not if you attached the jumper battery to the clamps directly. If it
still doesn't start, or at least try to (the jumper battery may not be
quite strong enough to start the car all by itself) you may have more
issues than just the clamp.
nate
On Apr 28, 12:38 am, "GasUsed2b35centspg" <u43225@uwe> wrote:
> Calab wrote:
>
> >You can do one of two things... Buy a replacement clamp and repair the
> >positive wire, OR they make lead post covers that make the post larger
> >and then you can clamp over that.
>
> >I vote for replacing the clamp.
>
> Thanks for your responses.
>
> Should I have any problem starting the car with my Prestone jumper battery=
,
> which has never failed before (even when prior batteries were completely
> drained)?
Not if you attached the jumper battery to the clamps directly. If it
still doesn't start, or at least try to (the jumper battery may not be
quite strong enough to start the car all by itself) you may have more
issues than just the clamp.
nate
Re: Engine won't turn over after positive battery clamp came off
On Apr 27, 9:14 pm, Calab <mys...@csd.ca> wrote:
> > I just went down to start my 1995 Honda Civic Ex and first noticed that =
I
> > didn't hear the beeps from the alarm. When I was able to start the en=
gine, I
> > opened the hood and realized the positive battery clamp completely came =
off
> > the positive terminal. I put it back on (it's still loose and the scr=
ew/nut
> > combo can't be tightened any more than it currently is) and while I h=
eard
> > the ignition, the engine wouldn't turn over.
>
> The starter needs a LOT of power to turn the engine over properly. As
> long as that clamp is loose, it won't start.
>
> You can do one of two things... Buy a replacement clamp and repair the
> positive wire, OR they make lead post covers that make the post larger
> and then you can clamp over that.
>
> I vote for replacing the clamp.
I vote for replacing the whole cable, unless the OP is equipped to use
one of those solder-filled marine type replacement clamps. The
regular parts store ones are good in a pinch, but that's about it.
nate
On Apr 27, 9:14 pm, Calab <mys...@csd.ca> wrote:
> > I just went down to start my 1995 Honda Civic Ex and first noticed that =
I
> > didn't hear the beeps from the alarm. When I was able to start the en=
gine, I
> > opened the hood and realized the positive battery clamp completely came =
off
> > the positive terminal. I put it back on (it's still loose and the scr=
ew/nut
> > combo can't be tightened any more than it currently is) and while I h=
eard
> > the ignition, the engine wouldn't turn over.
>
> The starter needs a LOT of power to turn the engine over properly. As
> long as that clamp is loose, it won't start.
>
> You can do one of two things... Buy a replacement clamp and repair the
> positive wire, OR they make lead post covers that make the post larger
> and then you can clamp over that.
>
> I vote for replacing the clamp.
I vote for replacing the whole cable, unless the OP is equipped to use
one of those solder-filled marine type replacement clamps. The
regular parts store ones are good in a pinch, but that's about it.
nate
Re: Engine won't turn over after positive battery clamp came off
Well, I just spent a whole day with the car. First I tried to use my jumper
battery and after that didn't work, I went for a gallon of gas, thinking the
tank was near empty. That was also no help, so it was time to call for a
tow to the repair station. Once I got it in for repair, the first
diagnosis was the distributor went because there wasn't a spark when trying
to start the car. Remember that there wasn't a problem with the battery as
the lights, radio, and engine were cranking. The engine just wouldn't start.
After I came home, I received a call from the tech who said that upon further
inspection, it wasn't the distributor. When he looked under the dashboard,
he noticed my computer was missing!
That's probably why I saw the positive battery clamp off the terminal last
night. When someone broke in to steal the computer, to shut the alarm they
disengaged the positive clamp from the battery.
Why would anyone want a 1995 Civic Ex computer? Is this common?
I don't know how a thief into the car so easily. There's a Chapman lock for
the hood, and there's no sign of forced entry.
Anyone know where to get a new one? I see that RockAuto has one that has to
be ordered.
--
Message posted via CarKB . com
* w w w .carkb . com /Uwe/Forums.aspx/car-maintenance/200804/1
Well, I just spent a whole day with the car. First I tried to use my jumper
battery and after that didn't work, I went for a gallon of gas, thinking the
tank was near empty. That was also no help, so it was time to call for a
tow to the repair station. Once I got it in for repair, the first
diagnosis was the distributor went because there wasn't a spark when trying
to start the car. Remember that there wasn't a problem with the battery as
the lights, radio, and engine were cranking. The engine just wouldn't start.
After I came home, I received a call from the tech who said that upon further
inspection, it wasn't the distributor. When he looked under the dashboard,
he noticed my computer was missing!
That's probably why I saw the positive battery clamp off the terminal last
night. When someone broke in to steal the computer, to shut the alarm they
disengaged the positive clamp from the battery.
Why would anyone want a 1995 Civic Ex computer? Is this common?
I don't know how a thief into the car so easily. There's a Chapman lock for
the hood, and there's no sign of forced entry.
Anyone know where to get a new one? I see that RockAuto has one that has to
be ordered.
--
Message posted via CarKB . com
* w w w .carkb . com /Uwe/Forums.aspx/car-maintenance/200804/1
Re: Engine won't turn over after positive battery clamp came off
GasUsed2b35centspg via CarKB . com wrote:
> After I came home, I received a call from the tech who said that upon further
> inspection, it wasn't the distributor. When he looked under the dashboard,
> he noticed my computer was missing!
> That's probably why I saw the positive battery clamp off the terminal last
> night. When someone broke in to steal the computer, to shut the alarm they
> disengaged the positive clamp from the battery.
> Why would anyone want a 1995 Civic Ex computer? Is this common?
>
> I don't know how a thief into the car so easily. There's a Chapman lock for
> the hood, and there's no sign of forced entry.
Probably one of the local "tuner crowd" stole it because they blew up
theirs doing the latest mod.
--
Steve W.
GasUsed2b35centspg via CarKB . com wrote:
> After I came home, I received a call from the tech who said that upon further
> inspection, it wasn't the distributor. When he looked under the dashboard,
> he noticed my computer was missing!
> That's probably why I saw the positive battery clamp off the terminal last
> night. When someone broke in to steal the computer, to shut the alarm they
> disengaged the positive clamp from the battery.
> Why would anyone want a 1995 Civic Ex computer? Is this common?
>
> I don't know how a thief into the car so easily. There's a Chapman lock for
> the hood, and there's no sign of forced entry.
Probably one of the local "tuner crowd" stole it because they blew up
theirs doing the latest mod.
--
Steve W.
Re: Engine won't turn over after positive battery clamp came off
Steve W. wrote:
>Probably one of the local "tuner crowd" stole it because they blew up
>theirs doing the latest mod.
>
What model years would this computer fit and does anyone know of good online
sites for replacement ones?
--
Message posted via * w w w .carkb . com
Steve W. wrote:
>Probably one of the local "tuner crowd" stole it because they blew up
>theirs doing the latest mod.
>
What model years would this computer fit and does anyone know of good online
sites for replacement ones?
--
Message posted via * w w w .carkb . com
Re: Engine won't turn over after positive battery clamp came off
GasUsed2b35centspg via CarKB . com wrote:
> Steve W. wrote:
>
>> Probably one of the local "tuner crowd" stole it because they blew up
>> theirs doing the latest mod.
>>
>
>
> What model years would this computer fit and does anyone know of good online
> sites for replacement ones?
>
Well from the book it looks like they use the same base computer in a
LOT of different vehicles, Toyota, Honda, Nissan, Ford, Mercury, Mazda,
Infinity, Lexus all have it listed. Years from 1982-1995. They are then
programmed with a unit to match what your vehicle needs.
Rock Auto doesn't sell the one you need, They offer a rebuild and return
but you need a unit to send them first.
37820 P28 A52 seems to be the OEM part you need. About $500.00 new.
Try here for more info.
* w w w .honda-ecu . com
--
Steve W.
GasUsed2b35centspg via CarKB . com wrote:
> Steve W. wrote:
>
>> Probably one of the local "tuner crowd" stole it because they blew up
>> theirs doing the latest mod.
>>
>
>
> What model years would this computer fit and does anyone know of good online
> sites for replacement ones?
>
Well from the book it looks like they use the same base computer in a
LOT of different vehicles, Toyota, Honda, Nissan, Ford, Mercury, Mazda,
Infinity, Lexus all have it listed. Years from 1982-1995. They are then
programmed with a unit to match what your vehicle needs.
Rock Auto doesn't sell the one you need, They offer a rebuild and return
but you need a unit to send them first.
37820 P28 A52 seems to be the OEM part you need. About $500.00 new.
Try here for more info.
* w w w .honda-ecu . com
--
Steve W.
Re: Engine won't turn over after positive battery clamp came off
"GasUsed2b35centspg via CarKB . com " <u43225@uwe> wrote in message
news:836249dcb0862@uwe...
> Steve W. wrote:
>
>>Probably one of the local "tuner crowd" stole it because they blew up
>>theirs doing the latest mod.
>>
>
>
> What model years would this computer fit and does anyone know of good online
> sites for replacement ones?
>
> --
> Message posted via * w w w .carkb . com
>
Try this place, I haven't used them but they allow you to search the entire
USA.
* w w w .car-part . com /index.htm
"GasUsed2b35centspg via CarKB . com " <u43225@uwe> wrote in message
news:836249dcb0862@uwe...
> Steve W. wrote:
>
>>Probably one of the local "tuner crowd" stole it because they blew up
>>theirs doing the latest mod.
>>
>
>
> What model years would this computer fit and does anyone know of good online
> sites for replacement ones?
>
> --
> Message posted via * w w w .carkb . com
>
Try this place, I haven't used them but they allow you to search the entire
USA.
* w w w .car-part . com /index.htm
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