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Breaks sticking 84 Honda Accord
Breaks sticking 84 Honda Accord
1984 Honda Accord, Automatic 1.8L 4cyl.
After driving the car long enough for the breaks to warm up, the front
breaks begin holding. The break pedal gets very firm with no travel
until the car wont go anymore. After the car sits and cools down, the
breaks release.
I have replaced the master cyl, break booster, front pads and
calipers. Bleed the entire system but the same thing still happens.
Any ideas? No fluid is leaking and the breaks work fine until they
heat up from stopping several times or going down a hill. Someone
suggested the proportioning valve. Can this valve cause this
problem? I have contacted all of the local auto parts stores and none
of them sell any proportioning valves 'dealer only'. I have looked up
used ones on ebay and they seem to all have the same connections mine
has, can I use one from any car as long as it has all of the
connections or does it have to be specifically for this car?
ANY suggestions/info will be greatly appreciated.
Thank you
1984 Honda Accord, Automatic 1.8L 4cyl.
After driving the car long enough for the breaks to warm up, the front
breaks begin holding. The break pedal gets very firm with no travel
until the car wont go anymore. After the car sits and cools down, the
breaks release.
I have replaced the master cyl, break booster, front pads and
calipers. Bleed the entire system but the same thing still happens.
Any ideas? No fluid is leaking and the breaks work fine until they
heat up from stopping several times or going down a hill. Someone
suggested the proportioning valve. Can this valve cause this
problem? I have contacted all of the local auto parts stores and none
of them sell any proportioning valves 'dealer only'. I have looked up
used ones on ebay and they seem to all have the same connections mine
has, can I use one from any car as long as it has all of the
connections or does it have to be specifically for this car?
ANY suggestions/info will be greatly appreciated.
Thank you
Re: Breaks sticking 84 Honda Accord
On Apr 30, 4:04 pm, mholst...@gmail . com wrote:
> 1984 Honda Accord, Automatic 1.8L 4cyl.
>
> After driving the car long enough for the breaks to warm up, the front
> breaks begin holding. The break pedal gets very firm with no travel
> until the car wont go anymore. After the car sits and cools down, the
> breaks release.
> I have replaced the master cyl, break booster, front pads and
> calipers. Bleed the entire system but the same thing still happens.
> Any ideas? No fluid is leaking and the breaks work fine until they
> heat up from stopping several times or going down a hill. Someone
> suggested the proportioning valve. Can this valve cause this
> problem? I have contacted all of the local auto parts stores and none
> of them sell any proportioning valves 'dealer only'. I have looked up
> used ones on ebay and they seem to all have the same connections mine
> has, can I use one from any car as long as it has all of the
> connections or does it have to be specifically for this car?
>
> ANY suggestions/info will be greatly appreciated.
>
> Thank you
I don't think the prop valve could be your problem, as that would
generally cause issues with the *rear* brakes - the fronts generally
run unproportioned straight from the master cylinder.
Have you ever replaced the brake hoses on this car? My first guesses
would either be simply old front hoses that are acting as check
valves, or else improper master cylinder pushrod adjustment (do you
have enough freeplay in the brake pedal?)
Also, are you sure that it is the front brakes? if they are dragging
badly, you should be able to feel the wheels and find them to be quite
warm. If it is actually the rears that are dragging, there are other
things to check,. like parking brake adjustment.
Finally, if you are sure that the front brakes are the problem, if you
have the ability, next time the brakes start dragging, immediately
jack the whole front of the car up and try to spin the wheels. I'm
assuming that you will find that they are in fact dragging. then
crack a bleeder screw on one wheel, If both free up your problem is
not at the caliper or hose, but in the master cylinder, pedal free
play, etc. If only one frees up then the problem is likely either the
hoses or else bad reman calipers. If they don't free up at all it's a
mechanical problem with the caliper or something in that area.
good luck
nate
On Apr 30, 4:04 pm, mholst...@gmail . com wrote:
> 1984 Honda Accord, Automatic 1.8L 4cyl.
>
> After driving the car long enough for the breaks to warm up, the front
> breaks begin holding. The break pedal gets very firm with no travel
> until the car wont go anymore. After the car sits and cools down, the
> breaks release.
> I have replaced the master cyl, break booster, front pads and
> calipers. Bleed the entire system but the same thing still happens.
> Any ideas? No fluid is leaking and the breaks work fine until they
> heat up from stopping several times or going down a hill. Someone
> suggested the proportioning valve. Can this valve cause this
> problem? I have contacted all of the local auto parts stores and none
> of them sell any proportioning valves 'dealer only'. I have looked up
> used ones on ebay and they seem to all have the same connections mine
> has, can I use one from any car as long as it has all of the
> connections or does it have to be specifically for this car?
>
> ANY suggestions/info will be greatly appreciated.
>
> Thank you
I don't think the prop valve could be your problem, as that would
generally cause issues with the *rear* brakes - the fronts generally
run unproportioned straight from the master cylinder.
Have you ever replaced the brake hoses on this car? My first guesses
would either be simply old front hoses that are acting as check
valves, or else improper master cylinder pushrod adjustment (do you
have enough freeplay in the brake pedal?)
Also, are you sure that it is the front brakes? if they are dragging
badly, you should be able to feel the wheels and find them to be quite
warm. If it is actually the rears that are dragging, there are other
things to check,. like parking brake adjustment.
Finally, if you are sure that the front brakes are the problem, if you
have the ability, next time the brakes start dragging, immediately
jack the whole front of the car up and try to spin the wheels. I'm
assuming that you will find that they are in fact dragging. then
crack a bleeder screw on one wheel, If both free up your problem is
not at the caliper or hose, but in the master cylinder, pedal free
play, etc. If only one frees up then the problem is likely either the
hoses or else bad reman calipers. If they don't free up at all it's a
mechanical problem with the caliper or something in that area.
good luck
nate
Re: Breaks sticking 84 Honda Accord
THANK YOU!!!!!! It was the master cylinder pushrod. Minor adjustment
and now the breaks are perfect!
After messing with this thing for over 4 months...
A million thanks!
mikey
On Apr 30, 4:19 pm, N8N <njna...@hotmail . com > wrote:
> On Apr 30, 4:04 pm, mholst...@gmail . com wrote:
>
>
>
> > 1984 Honda Accord, Automatic 1.8L 4cyl.
>
> > After driving the car long enough for the breaks to warm up, the front
> > breaks begin holding. The break pedal gets very firm with no travel
> > until the car wont go anymore. After the car sits and cools down, the
> > breaks release.
> > I have replaced the master cyl, break booster, front pads and
> > calipers. Bleed the entire system but the same thing still happens.
> > Any ideas? No fluid is leaking and the breaks work fine until they
> > heat up from stopping several times or going down a hill. Someone
> > suggested the proportioning valve. Can this valve cause this
> > problem? I have contacted all of the local auto parts stores and none
> > of them sell any proportioning valves 'dealer only'. I have looked up
> > used ones on ebay and they seem to all have the same connections mine
> > has, can I use one from any car as long as it has all of the
> > connections or does it have to be specifically for this car?
>
> > ANY suggestions/info will be greatly appreciated.
>
> > Thank you
>
> I don't think the prop valve could be your problem, as that would
> generally cause issues with the *rear* brakes - the fronts generally
> run unproportioned straight from the master cylinder.
>
> Have you ever replaced the brake hoses on this car? My first guesses
> would either be simply old front hoses that are acting as check
> valves, or else improper master cylinder pushrod adjustment (do you
> have enough freeplay in the brake pedal?)
>
> Also, are you sure that it is the front brakes? if they are dragging
> badly, you should be able to feel the wheels and find them to be quite
> warm. If it is actually the rears that are dragging, there are other
> things to check,. like parking brake adjustment.
>
> Finally, if you are sure that the front brakes are the problem, if you
> have the ability, next time the brakes start dragging, immediately
> jack the whole front of the car up and try to spin the wheels. I'm
> assuming that you will find that they are in fact dragging. then
> crack a bleeder screw on one wheel, If both free up your problem is
> not at the caliper or hose, but in the master cylinder, pedal free
> play, etc. If only one frees up then the problem is likely either the
> hoses or else bad reman calipers. If they don't free up at all it's a
> mechanical problem with the caliper or something in that area.
>
> good luck
>
> nate
THANK YOU!!!!!! It was the master cylinder pushrod. Minor adjustment
and now the breaks are perfect!
After messing with this thing for over 4 months...
A million thanks!
mikey
On Apr 30, 4:19 pm, N8N <njna...@hotmail . com > wrote:
> On Apr 30, 4:04 pm, mholst...@gmail . com wrote:
>
>
>
> > 1984 Honda Accord, Automatic 1.8L 4cyl.
>
> > After driving the car long enough for the breaks to warm up, the front
> > breaks begin holding. The break pedal gets very firm with no travel
> > until the car wont go anymore. After the car sits and cools down, the
> > breaks release.
> > I have replaced the master cyl, break booster, front pads and
> > calipers. Bleed the entire system but the same thing still happens.
> > Any ideas? No fluid is leaking and the breaks work fine until they
> > heat up from stopping several times or going down a hill. Someone
> > suggested the proportioning valve. Can this valve cause this
> > problem? I have contacted all of the local auto parts stores and none
> > of them sell any proportioning valves 'dealer only'. I have looked up
> > used ones on ebay and they seem to all have the same connections mine
> > has, can I use one from any car as long as it has all of the
> > connections or does it have to be specifically for this car?
>
> > ANY suggestions/info will be greatly appreciated.
>
> > Thank you
>
> I don't think the prop valve could be your problem, as that would
> generally cause issues with the *rear* brakes - the fronts generally
> run unproportioned straight from the master cylinder.
>
> Have you ever replaced the brake hoses on this car? My first guesses
> would either be simply old front hoses that are acting as check
> valves, or else improper master cylinder pushrod adjustment (do you
> have enough freeplay in the brake pedal?)
>
> Also, are you sure that it is the front brakes? if they are dragging
> badly, you should be able to feel the wheels and find them to be quite
> warm. If it is actually the rears that are dragging, there are other
> things to check,. like parking brake adjustment.
>
> Finally, if you are sure that the front brakes are the problem, if you
> have the ability, next time the brakes start dragging, immediately
> jack the whole front of the car up and try to spin the wheels. I'm
> assuming that you will find that they are in fact dragging. then
> crack a bleeder screw on one wheel, If both free up your problem is
> not at the caliper or hose, but in the master cylinder, pedal free
> play, etc. If only one frees up then the problem is likely either the
> hoses or else bad reman calipers. If they don't free up at all it's a
> mechanical problem with the caliper or something in that area.
>
> good luck
>
> nate
Re: Breaks sticking 84 Honda Accord
Great! glad to hear you fixed it and thanks for the feedback.
nate
On May 1, 6:33 pm, mholst...@gmail . com wrote:
> THANK YOU!!!!!! It was the master cylinder pushrod. Minor adjustment=
> and now the breaks are perfect!
> After messing with this thing for over 4 months...
>
> A million thanks!
>
> mikey
>
> On Apr 30, 4:19 pm, N8N <njna...@hotmail . com > wrote:
>
>
>
> > On Apr 30, 4:04 pm, mholst...@gmail . com wrote:
>
> > > 1984 Honda Accord, Automatic 1.8L 4cyl.
>
> > > After driving the car long enough for the breaks to warm up, the front=
> > > breaks begin holding. The break pedal gets very firm with no travel=
> > > until the car wont go anymore. After the car sits and cools down, t=
he
> > > breaks release.
> > > I have replaced the master cyl, break booster, front pads and
> > > calipers. Bleed the entire system but the same thing still happens.=
> > > Any ideas? No fluid is leaking and the breaks work fine until they
> > > heat up from stopping several times or going down a hill. Someone
> > > suggested the proportioning valve. Can this valve cause this
> > > problem? I have contacted all of the local auto parts stores and no=
ne
> > > of them sell any proportioning valves 'dealer only'. I have looked =
up
> > > used ones on ebay and they seem to all have the same connections mine
> > > has, can I use one from any car as long as it has all of the
> > > connections or does it have to be specifically for this car?
>
> > > ANY suggestions/info will be greatly appreciated.
>
> > > Thank you
>
> > I don't think the prop valve could be your problem, as that would
> > generally cause issues with the *rear* brakes - the fronts generally
> > run unproportioned straight from the master cylinder.
>
> > Have you ever replaced the brake hoses on this car? My first guesses
> > would either be simply old front hoses that are acting as check
> > valves, or else improper master cylinder pushrod adjustment (do you
> > have enough freeplay in the brake pedal?)
>
> > Also, are you sure that it is the front brakes? if they are dragging
> > badly, you should be able to feel the wheels and find them to be quite
> > warm. If it is actually the rears that are dragging, there are other
> > things to check,. like parking brake adjustment.
>
> > Finally, if you are sure that the front brakes are the problem, if you
> > have the ability, next time the brakes start dragging, immediately
> > jack the whole front of the car up and try to spin the wheels. I'm
> > assuming that you will find that they are in fact dragging. then
> > crack a bleeder screw on one wheel, If both free up your problem is
> > not at the caliper or hose, but in the master cylinder, pedal free
> > play, etc. If only one frees up then the problem is likely either the=
> > hoses or else bad reman calipers. If they don't free up at all it's a=
> > mechanical problem with the caliper or something in that area.
>
> > good luck
>
> > nate- Hide quoted text -
>
> - Show quoted text -
Great! glad to hear you fixed it and thanks for the feedback.
nate
On May 1, 6:33 pm, mholst...@gmail . com wrote:
> THANK YOU!!!!!! It was the master cylinder pushrod. Minor adjustment=
> and now the breaks are perfect!
> After messing with this thing for over 4 months...
>
> A million thanks!
>
> mikey
>
> On Apr 30, 4:19 pm, N8N <njna...@hotmail . com > wrote:
>
>
>
> > On Apr 30, 4:04 pm, mholst...@gmail . com wrote:
>
> > > 1984 Honda Accord, Automatic 1.8L 4cyl.
>
> > > After driving the car long enough for the breaks to warm up, the front=
> > > breaks begin holding. The break pedal gets very firm with no travel=
> > > until the car wont go anymore. After the car sits and cools down, t=
he
> > > breaks release.
> > > I have replaced the master cyl, break booster, front pads and
> > > calipers. Bleed the entire system but the same thing still happens.=
> > > Any ideas? No fluid is leaking and the breaks work fine until they
> > > heat up from stopping several times or going down a hill. Someone
> > > suggested the proportioning valve. Can this valve cause this
> > > problem? I have contacted all of the local auto parts stores and no=
ne
> > > of them sell any proportioning valves 'dealer only'. I have looked =
up
> > > used ones on ebay and they seem to all have the same connections mine
> > > has, can I use one from any car as long as it has all of the
> > > connections or does it have to be specifically for this car?
>
> > > ANY suggestions/info will be greatly appreciated.
>
> > > Thank you
>
> > I don't think the prop valve could be your problem, as that would
> > generally cause issues with the *rear* brakes - the fronts generally
> > run unproportioned straight from the master cylinder.
>
> > Have you ever replaced the brake hoses on this car? My first guesses
> > would either be simply old front hoses that are acting as check
> > valves, or else improper master cylinder pushrod adjustment (do you
> > have enough freeplay in the brake pedal?)
>
> > Also, are you sure that it is the front brakes? if they are dragging
> > badly, you should be able to feel the wheels and find them to be quite
> > warm. If it is actually the rears that are dragging, there are other
> > things to check,. like parking brake adjustment.
>
> > Finally, if you are sure that the front brakes are the problem, if you
> > have the ability, next time the brakes start dragging, immediately
> > jack the whole front of the car up and try to spin the wheels. I'm
> > assuming that you will find that they are in fact dragging. then
> > crack a bleeder screw on one wheel, If both free up your problem is
> > not at the caliper or hose, but in the master cylinder, pedal free
> > play, etc. If only one frees up then the problem is likely either the=
> > hoses or else bad reman calipers. If they don't free up at all it's a=
> > mechanical problem with the caliper or something in that area.
>
> > good luck
>
> > nate- Hide quoted text -
>
> - Show quoted text -
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