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How is the best way to purge brake lines
How is the best way to purge brake lines
I have to do a brake job on old Betsy and need to totally change the
brake fuid at the same time.
Is it best to totally drain the system, do repairs and then re-fill
eveything?
Or just undo what I have to and block the flow and then fill and bleed
until it is all done?
Or does it make any difference?
If it will not affect or cause issues, number 1 would be best I think
as I have to replace brake caliper seals in all 4 wheels. And I do
want to totally change the fluid as it has been years since it was
done - like 20 or so....
TIA...
I have to do a brake job on old Betsy and need to totally change the
brake fuid at the same time.
Is it best to totally drain the system, do repairs and then re-fill
eveything?
Or just undo what I have to and block the flow and then fill and bleed
until it is all done?
Or does it make any difference?
If it will not affect or cause issues, number 1 would be best I think
as I have to replace brake caliper seals in all 4 wheels. And I do
want to totally change the fluid as it has been years since it was
done - like 20 or so....
TIA...
Re: How is the best way to purge brake lines
BSAKing@hotmail . com wrote:
> I have to do a brake job on old Betsy and need to totally change the
> brake fuid at the same time.
>
> Is it best to totally drain the system, do repairs and then re-fill
> eveything?
>
> Or just undo what I have to and block the flow and then fill and bleed
> until it is all done?
>
> Or does it make any difference?
>
> If it will not affect or cause issues, number 1 would be best I think
> as I have to replace brake caliper seals in all 4 wheels. And I do
> want to totally change the fluid as it has been years since it was
> done - like 20 or so....
>
> TIA...
Depends on the vehicle.
BSAKing@hotmail . com wrote:
> I have to do a brake job on old Betsy and need to totally change the
> brake fuid at the same time.
>
> Is it best to totally drain the system, do repairs and then re-fill
> eveything?
>
> Or just undo what I have to and block the flow and then fill and bleed
> until it is all done?
>
> Or does it make any difference?
>
> If it will not affect or cause issues, number 1 would be best I think
> as I have to replace brake caliper seals in all 4 wheels. And I do
> want to totally change the fluid as it has been years since it was
> done - like 20 or so....
>
> TIA...
Depends on the vehicle.
Re: How is the best way to purge brake lines
BSAKing@hotmail . com wrote:
> I have to do a brake job on old Betsy and need to totally change the
> brake fuid at the same time.
>
> Is it best to totally drain the system, do repairs and then re-fill
> eveything?
>
> Or just undo what I have to and block the flow and then fill and bleed
> until it is all done?
>
> Or does it make any difference?
>
> If it will not affect or cause issues, number 1 would be best I think
> as I have to replace brake caliper seals in all 4 wheels. And I do
> want to totally change the fluid as it has been years since it was
> done - like 20 or so....
>
> TIA...
Do you have ABS?
nate
--
replace "roosters" with "cox" to reply.
* members.cox . net /njnagel
BSAKing@hotmail . com wrote:
> I have to do a brake job on old Betsy and need to totally change the
> brake fuid at the same time.
>
> Is it best to totally drain the system, do repairs and then re-fill
> eveything?
>
> Or just undo what I have to and block the flow and then fill and bleed
> until it is all done?
>
> Or does it make any difference?
>
> If it will not affect or cause issues, number 1 would be best I think
> as I have to replace brake caliper seals in all 4 wheels. And I do
> want to totally change the fluid as it has been years since it was
> done - like 20 or so....
>
> TIA...
Do you have ABS?
nate
--
replace "roosters" with "cox" to reply.
* members.cox . net /njnagel
Re: How is the best way to purge brake lines
On May 8, 7:21 pm, Nate Nagel <njna...@roosters . net > wrote:
> BSAK...@hotmail . com wrote:
> > I have to do a brake job on old Betsy and need to totally change the
> > brake fuid at the same time.
>
> > Is it best to totally drain the system, do repairs and then re-fill
> > eveything?
>
> > Or just undo what I have to and block the flow and then fill and bleed
> > until it is all done?
>
> > Or does it make any difference?
>
> > If it will not affect or cause issues, number 1 would be best I think
> > as I have to replace brake caliper seals in all 4 wheels. And I do
> > want to totally change the fluid as it has been years since it was
> > done - like 20 or so....
>
> > TIA...
>
> Do you have ABS?
>
> nate
>
> --
> replace "roosters" with "cox" to reply. * members.cox . net /njnagel- Hid=
e quoted text -
>
> - Show quoted text -
No - the patient in question is a 1976 Corvette 350 smogger
(stingray)....
On May 8, 7:21 pm, Nate Nagel <njna...@roosters . net > wrote:
> BSAK...@hotmail . com wrote:
> > I have to do a brake job on old Betsy and need to totally change the
> > brake fuid at the same time.
>
> > Is it best to totally drain the system, do repairs and then re-fill
> > eveything?
>
> > Or just undo what I have to and block the flow and then fill and bleed
> > until it is all done?
>
> > Or does it make any difference?
>
> > If it will not affect or cause issues, number 1 would be best I think
> > as I have to replace brake caliper seals in all 4 wheels. And I do
> > want to totally change the fluid as it has been years since it was
> > done - like 20 or so....
>
> > TIA...
>
> Do you have ABS?
>
> nate
>
> --
> replace "roosters" with "cox" to reply. * members.cox . net /njnagel- Hid=
e quoted text -
>
> - Show quoted text -
No - the patient in question is a 1976 Corvette 350 smogger
(stingray)....
Re: How is the best way to purge brake lines
BSAKing@hotmail . com wrote:
> On May 8, 7:21 pm, Nate Nagel <njna...@roosters . net > wrote:
>
>>BSAK...@hotmail . com wrote:
>>
>>>I have to do a brake job on old Betsy and need to totally change the
>>>brake fuid at the same time.
>>
>>>Is it best to totally drain the system, do repairs and then re-fill
>>>eveything?
>>
>>>Or just undo what I have to and block the flow and then fill and bleed
>>>until it is all done?
>>
>>>Or does it make any difference?
>>
>>>If it will not affect or cause issues, number 1 would be best I think
>>>as I have to replace brake caliper seals in all 4 wheels. And I do
>>>want to totally change the fluid as it has been years since it was
>>>done - like 20 or so....
>>
>>>TIA...
>>
>>Do you have ABS?
>>
>>nate
>>
>>--
>>replace "roosters" with "cox" to reply. * members.cox . net /njnagel- Hide quoted text -
>>
>>- Show quoted text -
>
>
> No - the patient in question is a 1976 Corvette 350 smogger
> (stingray)....
then it really doesn't matter. I would probably replace the hoses while
I'm that far into it - if they're the original hoses the rubber may be
swollen and/or deteriorating.
nate
--
replace "roosters" with "cox" to reply.
* members.cox . net /njnagel
BSAKing@hotmail . com wrote:
> On May 8, 7:21 pm, Nate Nagel <njna...@roosters . net > wrote:
>
>>BSAK...@hotmail . com wrote:
>>
>>>I have to do a brake job on old Betsy and need to totally change the
>>>brake fuid at the same time.
>>
>>>Is it best to totally drain the system, do repairs and then re-fill
>>>eveything?
>>
>>>Or just undo what I have to and block the flow and then fill and bleed
>>>until it is all done?
>>
>>>Or does it make any difference?
>>
>>>If it will not affect or cause issues, number 1 would be best I think
>>>as I have to replace brake caliper seals in all 4 wheels. And I do
>>>want to totally change the fluid as it has been years since it was
>>>done - like 20 or so....
>>
>>>TIA...
>>
>>Do you have ABS?
>>
>>nate
>>
>>--
>>replace "roosters" with "cox" to reply. * members.cox . net /njnagel- Hide quoted text -
>>
>>- Show quoted text -
>
>
> No - the patient in question is a 1976 Corvette 350 smogger
> (stingray)....
then it really doesn't matter. I would probably replace the hoses while
I'm that far into it - if they're the original hoses the rubber may be
swollen and/or deteriorating.
nate
--
replace "roosters" with "cox" to reply.
* members.cox . net /njnagel
Re: How is the best way to purge brake lines
On Thu, 8 May 2008 15:44:56 -0700 (PDT), "BSAKing@hotmail . com "
<BSAKing@hotmail . com > wrote:
>I have to do a brake job on old Betsy and need to totally change the
>brake fuid at the same time.
>
>Is it best to totally drain the system, do repairs and then re-fill
>eveything?
>
>Or just undo what I have to and block the flow and then fill and bleed
>until it is all done?
>
>Or does it make any difference?
>
>If it will not affect or cause issues, number 1 would be best I think
>as I have to replace brake caliper seals in all 4 wheels. And I do
>want to totally change the fluid as it has been years since it was
>done - like 20 or so....
>
>TIA...
It's best not to let the system drain.
If the system drains you will may have to pull the master cylinder and
re bench-bleed it. If the car in question has ABS you may have to
follow special procedures to bleed that.
If you are replacing the master cylinder too then don't worry about
it.
Steve B.
On Thu, 8 May 2008 15:44:56 -0700 (PDT), "BSAKing@hotmail . com "
<BSAKing@hotmail . com > wrote:
>I have to do a brake job on old Betsy and need to totally change the
>brake fuid at the same time.
>
>Is it best to totally drain the system, do repairs and then re-fill
>eveything?
>
>Or just undo what I have to and block the flow and then fill and bleed
>until it is all done?
>
>Or does it make any difference?
>
>If it will not affect or cause issues, number 1 would be best I think
>as I have to replace brake caliper seals in all 4 wheels. And I do
>want to totally change the fluid as it has been years since it was
>done - like 20 or so....
>
>TIA...
It's best not to let the system drain.
If the system drains you will may have to pull the master cylinder and
re bench-bleed it. If the car in question has ABS you may have to
follow special procedures to bleed that.
If you are replacing the master cylinder too then don't worry about
it.
Steve B.
Re: How is the best way to purge brake lines
On May 8, 8:26 pm, Steve B. <n...@none . com > wrote:
> On Thu, 8 May 2008 15:44:56 -0700 (PDT), "BSAK...@hotmail . com "
>
>
>
>
>
> <BSAK...@hotmail . com > wrote:
> >I have to do a brake job on old Betsy and need to totally change the
> >brake fuid at the same time.
>
> >Is it best to totally drain the system, do repairs and then re-fill
> >eveything?
>
> >Or just undo what I have to and block the flow and then fill and bleed
> >until it is all done?
>
> >Or does it make any difference?
>
> >If it will not affect or cause issues, number 1 would be best I think
> >as I have to replace brake caliper seals in all 4 wheels. And I do
> >want to totally change the fluid as it has been years since it was
> >done - like 20 or so....
>
> >TIA...
>
> It's best not to let the system drain.
>
> If the system drains you will may have to pull the master cylinder and
> re bench-bleed it. If the car in question has ABS you may have to
> follow special procedures to bleed that.
>
> If you are replacing the master cylinder too then don't worry about
> it.
>
> Steve B.- Hide quoted text -
>
> - Show quoted text -
I was not intending to do the master unless needed and I think it is
ok - it is mainly leaking seals on the calipers. I was going to check
out the brake hoses (probably replace) and lines as they are original.
On May 8, 8:26 pm, Steve B. <n...@none . com > wrote:
> On Thu, 8 May 2008 15:44:56 -0700 (PDT), "BSAK...@hotmail . com "
>
>
>
>
>
> <BSAK...@hotmail . com > wrote:
> >I have to do a brake job on old Betsy and need to totally change the
> >brake fuid at the same time.
>
> >Is it best to totally drain the system, do repairs and then re-fill
> >eveything?
>
> >Or just undo what I have to and block the flow and then fill and bleed
> >until it is all done?
>
> >Or does it make any difference?
>
> >If it will not affect or cause issues, number 1 would be best I think
> >as I have to replace brake caliper seals in all 4 wheels. And I do
> >want to totally change the fluid as it has been years since it was
> >done - like 20 or so....
>
> >TIA...
>
> It's best not to let the system drain.
>
> If the system drains you will may have to pull the master cylinder and
> re bench-bleed it. If the car in question has ABS you may have to
> follow special procedures to bleed that.
>
> If you are replacing the master cylinder too then don't worry about
> it.
>
> Steve B.- Hide quoted text -
>
> - Show quoted text -
I was not intending to do the master unless needed and I think it is
ok - it is mainly leaking seals on the calipers. I was going to check
out the brake hoses (probably replace) and lines as they are original.
Re: How is the best way to purge brake lines
BSAKing@hotmail . com wrote:
> On May 8, 8:26 pm, Steve B. <n...@none . com > wrote:
>
>>On Thu, 8 May 2008 15:44:56 -0700 (PDT), "BSAK...@hotmail . com "
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>><BSAK...@hotmail . com > wrote:
>>
>>>I have to do a brake job on old Betsy and need to totally change the
>>>brake fuid at the same time.
>>
>>>Is it best to totally drain the system, do repairs and then re-fill
>>>eveything?
>>
>>>Or just undo what I have to and block the flow and then fill and bleed
>>>until it is all done?
>>
>>>Or does it make any difference?
>>
>>>If it will not affect or cause issues, number 1 would be best I think
>>>as I have to replace brake caliper seals in all 4 wheels. And I do
>>>want to totally change the fluid as it has been years since it was
>>>done - like 20 or so....
>>
>>>TIA...
>>
>>It's best not to let the system drain.
>>
>>If the system drains you will may have to pull the master cylinder and
>>re bench-bleed it. If the car in question has ABS you may have to
>>follow special procedures to bleed that.
>>
>>If you are replacing the master cylinder too then don't worry about
>>it.
>>
>> Steve B.- Hide quoted text -
>>
>>- Show quoted text -
>
>
> I was not intending to do the master unless needed and I think it is
> ok - it is mainly leaking seals on the calipers. I was going to check
> out the brake hoses (probably replace) and lines as they are original.
If you end up replacing the hard lines, they're easy enough to bend
yourself but for a 'vette you can probably get prebent ones from Classic
Tube, Vette Brakes, etc. Stainless is nice and you'll never do that
particular job again if you use it :)
If you're not replacing the MC I recommend either using a pressure
bleeder or else putting a scrap of 2x4 under the brake pedal when you
bleed so you don't wipe out the seals.
nate
--
replace "roosters" with "cox" to reply.
* members.cox . net /njnagel
BSAKing@hotmail . com wrote:
> On May 8, 8:26 pm, Steve B. <n...@none . com > wrote:
>
>>On Thu, 8 May 2008 15:44:56 -0700 (PDT), "BSAK...@hotmail . com "
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>><BSAK...@hotmail . com > wrote:
>>
>>>I have to do a brake job on old Betsy and need to totally change the
>>>brake fuid at the same time.
>>
>>>Is it best to totally drain the system, do repairs and then re-fill
>>>eveything?
>>
>>>Or just undo what I have to and block the flow and then fill and bleed
>>>until it is all done?
>>
>>>Or does it make any difference?
>>
>>>If it will not affect or cause issues, number 1 would be best I think
>>>as I have to replace brake caliper seals in all 4 wheels. And I do
>>>want to totally change the fluid as it has been years since it was
>>>done - like 20 or so....
>>
>>>TIA...
>>
>>It's best not to let the system drain.
>>
>>If the system drains you will may have to pull the master cylinder and
>>re bench-bleed it. If the car in question has ABS you may have to
>>follow special procedures to bleed that.
>>
>>If you are replacing the master cylinder too then don't worry about
>>it.
>>
>> Steve B.- Hide quoted text -
>>
>>- Show quoted text -
>
>
> I was not intending to do the master unless needed and I think it is
> ok - it is mainly leaking seals on the calipers. I was going to check
> out the brake hoses (probably replace) and lines as they are original.
If you end up replacing the hard lines, they're easy enough to bend
yourself but for a 'vette you can probably get prebent ones from Classic
Tube, Vette Brakes, etc. Stainless is nice and you'll never do that
particular job again if you use it :)
If you're not replacing the MC I recommend either using a pressure
bleeder or else putting a scrap of 2x4 under the brake pedal when you
bleed so you don't wipe out the seals.
nate
--
replace "roosters" with "cox" to reply.
* members.cox . net /njnagel
Re: How is the best way to purge brake lines
On May 8, 9:37 pm, Nate Nagel <njna...@roosters . net > wrote:
> BSAK...@hotmail . com wrote:
> > On May 8, 8:26 pm, Steve B. <n...@none . com > wrote:
>
> >>On Thu, 8 May 2008 15:44:56 -0700 (PDT), "BSAK...@hotmail . com "
>
> >><BSAK...@hotmail . com > wrote:
>
> >>>I have to do a brake job on old Betsy and need to totally change the
> >>>brake fuid at the same time.
>
> >>>Is it best to totally drain the system, do repairs and then re-fill
> >>>eveything?
>
> >>>Or just undo what I have to and block the flow and then fill and bleed
> >>>until it is all done?
>
> >>>Or does it make any difference?
>
> >>>If it will not affect or cause issues, number 1 would be best I think
> >>>as I have to replace brake caliper seals in all 4 wheels. And I do
> >>>want to totally change the fluid as it has been years since it was
> >>>done - like 20 or so....
>
> >>>TIA...
>
> >>It's best not to let the system drain.
>
> >>If the system drains you will may have to pull the master cylinder and
> >>re bench-bleed it. If the car in question has ABS you may have to
> >>follow special procedures to bleed that.
>
> >>If you are replacing the master cylinder too then don't worry about
> >>it.
>
> >> Steve B.- Hide quoted text -
>
> >>- Show quoted text -
>
> > I was not intending to do the master unless needed and I think it is
> > ok - it is mainly leaking seals on the calipers. I was going to check
> > out the brake hoses (probably replace) and lines as they are original.
>
> If you end up replacing the hard lines, they're easy enough to bend
> yourself but for a 'vette you can probably get prebent ones from Classic
> Tube, Vette Brakes, etc. Stainless is nice and you'll never do that
> particular job again if you use it :)
>
> If you're not replacing the MC I recommend either using a pressure
> bleeder or else putting a scrap of 2x4 under the brake pedal when you
> bleed so you don't wipe out the seals.
>
> nate
>
> --
> replace "roosters" with "cox" to reply. * members.cox . net /njnagel- Hid=
e quoted text -
>
> - Show quoted text -
I notice vette brakes has a complete kit with s/s lined calipers,
master, lines and hoses. I may go for that and be done with it. Has
anyone every dealt with Vette brakes? THere prices seem pretty good....
On May 8, 9:37 pm, Nate Nagel <njna...@roosters . net > wrote:
> BSAK...@hotmail . com wrote:
> > On May 8, 8:26 pm, Steve B. <n...@none . com > wrote:
>
> >>On Thu, 8 May 2008 15:44:56 -0700 (PDT), "BSAK...@hotmail . com "
>
> >><BSAK...@hotmail . com > wrote:
>
> >>>I have to do a brake job on old Betsy and need to totally change the
> >>>brake fuid at the same time.
>
> >>>Is it best to totally drain the system, do repairs and then re-fill
> >>>eveything?
>
> >>>Or just undo what I have to and block the flow and then fill and bleed
> >>>until it is all done?
>
> >>>Or does it make any difference?
>
> >>>If it will not affect or cause issues, number 1 would be best I think
> >>>as I have to replace brake caliper seals in all 4 wheels. And I do
> >>>want to totally change the fluid as it has been years since it was
> >>>done - like 20 or so....
>
> >>>TIA...
>
> >>It's best not to let the system drain.
>
> >>If the system drains you will may have to pull the master cylinder and
> >>re bench-bleed it. If the car in question has ABS you may have to
> >>follow special procedures to bleed that.
>
> >>If you are replacing the master cylinder too then don't worry about
> >>it.
>
> >> Steve B.- Hide quoted text -
>
> >>- Show quoted text -
>
> > I was not intending to do the master unless needed and I think it is
> > ok - it is mainly leaking seals on the calipers. I was going to check
> > out the brake hoses (probably replace) and lines as they are original.
>
> If you end up replacing the hard lines, they're easy enough to bend
> yourself but for a 'vette you can probably get prebent ones from Classic
> Tube, Vette Brakes, etc. Stainless is nice and you'll never do that
> particular job again if you use it :)
>
> If you're not replacing the MC I recommend either using a pressure
> bleeder or else putting a scrap of 2x4 under the brake pedal when you
> bleed so you don't wipe out the seals.
>
> nate
>
> --
> replace "roosters" with "cox" to reply. * members.cox . net /njnagel- Hid=
e quoted text -
>
> - Show quoted text -
I notice vette brakes has a complete kit with s/s lined calipers,
master, lines and hoses. I may go for that and be done with it. Has
anyone every dealt with Vette brakes? THere prices seem pretty good....
Re: How is the best way to purge brake lines
BSAKing@hotmail . com wrote:
> On May 8, 9:37 pm, Nate Nagel <njna...@roosters . net > wrote:
>
>>BSAK...@hotmail . com wrote:
>>
>>>On May 8, 8:26 pm, Steve B. <n...@none . com > wrote:
>>
>>>>On Thu, 8 May 2008 15:44:56 -0700 (PDT), "BSAK...@hotmail . com "
>>
>>>><BSAK...@hotmail . com > wrote:
>>
>>>>>I have to do a brake job on old Betsy and need to totally change the
>>>>>brake fuid at the same time.
>>
>>>>>Is it best to totally drain the system, do repairs and then re-fill
>>>>>eveything?
>>
>>>>>Or just undo what I have to and block the flow and then fill and bleed
>>>>>until it is all done?
>>
>>>>>Or does it make any difference?
>>
>>>>>If it will not affect or cause issues, number 1 would be best I think
>>>>>as I have to replace brake caliper seals in all 4 wheels. And I do
>>>>>want to totally change the fluid as it has been years since it was
>>>>>done - like 20 or so....
>>
>>>>>TIA...
>>
>>>>It's best not to let the system drain.
>>
>>>>If the system drains you will may have to pull the master cylinder and
>>>>re bench-bleed it. If the car in question has ABS you may have to
>>>>follow special procedures to bleed that.
>>
>>>>If you are replacing the master cylinder too then don't worry about
>>>>it.
>>
>>>> Steve B.- Hide quoted text -
>>
>>>>- Show quoted text -
>>
>>>I was not intending to do the master unless needed and I think it is
>>>ok - it is mainly leaking seals on the calipers. I was going to check
>>>out the brake hoses (probably replace) and lines as they are original.
>>
>>If you end up replacing the hard lines, they're easy enough to bend
>>yourself but for a 'vette you can probably get prebent ones from Classic
>>Tube, Vette Brakes, etc. Stainless is nice and you'll never do that
>>particular job again if you use it :)
>>
>>If you're not replacing the MC I recommend either using a pressure
>>bleeder or else putting a scrap of 2x4 under the brake pedal when you
>>bleed so you don't wipe out the seals.
>>
>>nate
>>
>>--
>>replace "roosters" with "cox" to reply. * members.cox . net /njnagel- Hide quoted text -
>>
>>- Show quoted text -
>
>
> I notice vette brakes has a complete kit with s/s lined calipers,
> master, lines and hoses. I may go for that and be done with it. Has
> anyone every dealt with Vette brakes? THere prices seem pretty good....
I personally haven't, but they've been around for years. I remember
getting a catalog from them before I ever had internet access. Must
have been when I was still in high school and working on my '49 Chevy
project.
nate
--
replace "roosters" with "cox" to reply.
* members.cox . net /njnagel
BSAKing@hotmail . com wrote:
> On May 8, 9:37 pm, Nate Nagel <njna...@roosters . net > wrote:
>
>>BSAK...@hotmail . com wrote:
>>
>>>On May 8, 8:26 pm, Steve B. <n...@none . com > wrote:
>>
>>>>On Thu, 8 May 2008 15:44:56 -0700 (PDT), "BSAK...@hotmail . com "
>>
>>>><BSAK...@hotmail . com > wrote:
>>
>>>>>I have to do a brake job on old Betsy and need to totally change the
>>>>>brake fuid at the same time.
>>
>>>>>Is it best to totally drain the system, do repairs and then re-fill
>>>>>eveything?
>>
>>>>>Or just undo what I have to and block the flow and then fill and bleed
>>>>>until it is all done?
>>
>>>>>Or does it make any difference?
>>
>>>>>If it will not affect or cause issues, number 1 would be best I think
>>>>>as I have to replace brake caliper seals in all 4 wheels. And I do
>>>>>want to totally change the fluid as it has been years since it was
>>>>>done - like 20 or so....
>>
>>>>>TIA...
>>
>>>>It's best not to let the system drain.
>>
>>>>If the system drains you will may have to pull the master cylinder and
>>>>re bench-bleed it. If the car in question has ABS you may have to
>>>>follow special procedures to bleed that.
>>
>>>>If you are replacing the master cylinder too then don't worry about
>>>>it.
>>
>>>> Steve B.- Hide quoted text -
>>
>>>>- Show quoted text -
>>
>>>I was not intending to do the master unless needed and I think it is
>>>ok - it is mainly leaking seals on the calipers. I was going to check
>>>out the brake hoses (probably replace) and lines as they are original.
>>
>>If you end up replacing the hard lines, they're easy enough to bend
>>yourself but for a 'vette you can probably get prebent ones from Classic
>>Tube, Vette Brakes, etc. Stainless is nice and you'll never do that
>>particular job again if you use it :)
>>
>>If you're not replacing the MC I recommend either using a pressure
>>bleeder or else putting a scrap of 2x4 under the brake pedal when you
>>bleed so you don't wipe out the seals.
>>
>>nate
>>
>>--
>>replace "roosters" with "cox" to reply. * members.cox . net /njnagel- Hide quoted text -
>>
>>- Show quoted text -
>
>
> I notice vette brakes has a complete kit with s/s lined calipers,
> master, lines and hoses. I may go for that and be done with it. Has
> anyone every dealt with Vette brakes? THere prices seem pretty good....
I personally haven't, but they've been around for years. I remember
getting a catalog from them before I ever had internet access. Must
have been when I was still in high school and working on my '49 Chevy
project.
nate
--
replace "roosters" with "cox" to reply.
* members.cox . net /njnagel
Re: How is the best way to purge brake lines
<BSAKing@hotmail . com > wrote in message
news:19af89eb-d6d5-4be4-9064-499678c0787b@25g2000hsx.googlegroups . com ...
On May 8, 9:37 pm, Nate Nagel <njna...@roosters . net > wrote:
> BSAK...@hotmail . com wrote:
> > On May 8, 8:26 pm, Steve B. <n...@none . com > wrote:
>
> >>On Thu, 8 May 2008 15:44:56 -0700 (PDT), "BSAK...@hotmail . com "
>
> >><BSAK...@hotmail . com > wrote:
>
> >>>I have to do a brake job on old Betsy and need to totally change the
> >>>brake fuid at the same time.
>
> >>>Is it best to totally drain the system, do repairs and then re-fill
> >>>eveything?
>
> >>>Or just undo what I have to and block the flow and then fill and bleed
> >>>until it is all done?
>
> >>>Or does it make any difference?
>
> >>>If it will not affect or cause issues, number 1 would be best I think
> >>>as I have to replace brake caliper seals in all 4 wheels. And I do
> >>>want to totally change the fluid as it has been years since it was
> >>>done - like 20 or so....
>
> >>>TIA...
>
> >>It's best not to let the system drain.
>
> >>If the system drains you will may have to pull the master cylinder and
> >>re bench-bleed it. If the car in question has ABS you may have to
> >>follow special procedures to bleed that.
>
> >>If you are replacing the master cylinder too then don't worry about
> >>it.
>
> >> Steve B.- Hide quoted text -
>
> >>- Show quoted text -
>
> > I was not intending to do the master unless needed and I think it is
> > ok - it is mainly leaking seals on the calipers. I was going to check
> > out the brake hoses (probably replace) and lines as they are original.
>
> If you end up replacing the hard lines, they're easy enough to bend
> yourself but for a 'vette you can probably get prebent ones from Classic
> Tube, Vette Brakes, etc. Stainless is nice and you'll never do that
> particular job again if you use it :)
>
> If you're not replacing the MC I recommend either using a pressure
> bleeder or else putting a scrap of 2x4 under the brake pedal when you
> bleed so you don't wipe out the seals.
>
> nate
>
> --
> replace "roosters" with "cox" to reply. * members.cox . net /njnagel- Hide
> quoted text -
>
> - Show quoted text -
I notice vette brakes has a complete kit with s/s lined calipers,
master, lines and hoses. I may go for that and be done with it. Has
anyone every dealt with Vette brakes? THere prices seem pretty good....
----------------------------------------------------------------------------------
I have never dealt with them but I have installed some of their calipers
before and they seem to be a very high quality product.
<BSAKing@hotmail . com > wrote in message
news:19af89eb-d6d5-4be4-9064-499678c0787b@25g2000hsx.googlegroups . com ...
On May 8, 9:37 pm, Nate Nagel <njna...@roosters . net > wrote:
> BSAK...@hotmail . com wrote:
> > On May 8, 8:26 pm, Steve B. <n...@none . com > wrote:
>
> >>On Thu, 8 May 2008 15:44:56 -0700 (PDT), "BSAK...@hotmail . com "
>
> >><BSAK...@hotmail . com > wrote:
>
> >>>I have to do a brake job on old Betsy and need to totally change the
> >>>brake fuid at the same time.
>
> >>>Is it best to totally drain the system, do repairs and then re-fill
> >>>eveything?
>
> >>>Or just undo what I have to and block the flow and then fill and bleed
> >>>until it is all done?
>
> >>>Or does it make any difference?
>
> >>>If it will not affect or cause issues, number 1 would be best I think
> >>>as I have to replace brake caliper seals in all 4 wheels. And I do
> >>>want to totally change the fluid as it has been years since it was
> >>>done - like 20 or so....
>
> >>>TIA...
>
> >>It's best not to let the system drain.
>
> >>If the system drains you will may have to pull the master cylinder and
> >>re bench-bleed it. If the car in question has ABS you may have to
> >>follow special procedures to bleed that.
>
> >>If you are replacing the master cylinder too then don't worry about
> >>it.
>
> >> Steve B.- Hide quoted text -
>
> >>- Show quoted text -
>
> > I was not intending to do the master unless needed and I think it is
> > ok - it is mainly leaking seals on the calipers. I was going to check
> > out the brake hoses (probably replace) and lines as they are original.
>
> If you end up replacing the hard lines, they're easy enough to bend
> yourself but for a 'vette you can probably get prebent ones from Classic
> Tube, Vette Brakes, etc. Stainless is nice and you'll never do that
> particular job again if you use it :)
>
> If you're not replacing the MC I recommend either using a pressure
> bleeder or else putting a scrap of 2x4 under the brake pedal when you
> bleed so you don't wipe out the seals.
>
> nate
>
> --
> replace "roosters" with "cox" to reply. * members.cox . net /njnagel- Hide
> quoted text -
>
> - Show quoted text -
I notice vette brakes has a complete kit with s/s lined calipers,
master, lines and hoses. I may go for that and be done with it. Has
anyone every dealt with Vette brakes? THere prices seem pretty good....
----------------------------------------------------------------------------------
I have never dealt with them but I have installed some of their calipers
before and they seem to be a very high quality product.
