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AC Condenser leaks - how to repair?
Hi,
I'm a knucklehead DIYer. Last fall I successfully replaced the
radiator on my Toyota T100 pickup.
Now I'm trying to replace the AC condenser. After several years of
slow leaks & seaonal R134a refills, I began to notice shiny, neon
green around some of the condenser coils.
It's been quite a while since the last charge. I'm guessing there
isn't much refrigerant left.
Question(s): Can I unbolt the old condenser and pop on the new one?
Do I need new seals/gaskets? Do I need to somehow prime the new
condenser? Is there any chance there would be any refrigerant left?
Do I need to add oil into the system? Do I need other parts, or
tools?
I assume I'm in over my head, that's nothing new. But can I come out
the other side with all ten digits attached and possibly a working,
chilly AC? Summer's coming....
Oh, yeah. I bought a Silla condenser, new, that's supposed to be a
direct fit replacement, with a lifetime warranty.
b.
I'm a knucklehead DIYer. Last fall I successfully replaced the
radiator on my Toyota T100 pickup.
Now I'm trying to replace the AC condenser. After several years of
slow leaks & seaonal R134a refills, I began to notice shiny, neon
green around some of the condenser coils.
It's been quite a while since the last charge. I'm guessing there
isn't much refrigerant left.
Question(s): Can I unbolt the old condenser and pop on the new one?
Do I need new seals/gaskets? Do I need to somehow prime the new
condenser? Is there any chance there would be any refrigerant left?
Do I need to add oil into the system? Do I need other parts, or
tools?
I assume I'm in over my head, that's nothing new. But can I come out
the other side with all ten digits attached and possibly a working,
chilly AC? Summer's coming....
Oh, yeah. I bought a Silla condenser, new, that's supposed to be a
direct fit replacement, with a lifetime warranty.
b.
"Bardy" <bardiferous@gmail . com > wrote in message
news:d7b4cc4a-2581-4fcb-8765-41ef9594fa93@j22g2000hsf.googlegroups . com ...
> Hi,
>
> I'm a knucklehead DIYer. Last fall I successfully replaced the
> radiator on my Toyota T100 pickup.
>
> Now I'm trying to replace the AC condenser. After several years of
> slow leaks & seaonal R134a refills, I began to notice shiny, neon
> green around some of the condenser coils.
>
> It's been quite a while since the last charge. I'm guessing there
> isn't much refrigerant left.
>
> Question(s): Can I unbolt the old condenser and pop on the new one?
> Do I need new seals/gaskets? Do I need to somehow prime the new
> condenser? Is there any chance there would be any refrigerant left?
> Do I need to add oil into the system? Do I need other parts, or
> tools?
>
> I assume I'm in over my head, that's nothing new. But can I come out
> the other side with all ten digits attached and possibly a working,
> chilly AC? Summer's coming....
>
> Oh, yeah. I bought a Silla condenser, new, that's supposed to be a
> direct fit replacement, with a lifetime warranty.
>
> b.
I understand your situation..
You really need to be sure where the leak is occuring. This isnt easy to
do, sometimes,
without access to a modern electronic refrigerant detector.
Parts are expensive, and you can throw a ton of money at a problem that you
do not
diagnose properly.
When you open the sealed system, you have to think about (1) legal aspects
(discharge of
refrigerant), (2) making sure you are going to replace the leaky
component(s), (3) reassembly with new o-rings or seals, (4) replacement of
filter/dryer, (5) evacuation of the
system with a vacuum pump, and then (6) proper recharge.. (Did I miss
anything?)
Yes, I did, as a matter of fact...If you are losing a lot of refrigerant,
are you also losing
lubricant...Probably. You may have to add a little.
It is not rocket science, but to have a long life repair, you need to deal
with all these issues.
w w w .ackits . com is a good source that I have used a lot of times.
Read, ask questions, and LAST OF ALL, get with the program.
On Fri, 9 May 2008 14:10:30 -0700 (PDT), Bardy <bardiferous@gmail . com >
wrote:
>Hi,
>
>I'm a knucklehead DIYer. Last fall I successfully replaced the
>radiator on my Toyota T100 pickup.
You can do this, but you need to decide first if you want to learn how
and if you are planning to do it again. The tools to do the job right
will cost more than having it done, but you end up with the tools
which usually makes it worth it to me.
You should have a shop recover the 134a that is still in the system.
You can also just vent it, but that's not real legal or good for the
environment so at least pretend you had it recovered if you don't.
You will need new O-Rings at the connections for the new condenser
You need a new dryer.
You will loose oil in the old condenser and dryer. How much is a hard
guess. The FSM probably gives you a guesstimate. I usually just
drain the compressor, and flush the condenser (and I replace the
expansion device while I have it out). Then you can feel pretty safe
with putting back the factory fill amount.
After all that is done you have to use a Vacuum pump to pump down the
system and remove all the air. If you skip this step it doesn't cool
real well and the air and oil turn in to corrosive stew that eats
holes in everything else. Do a little research on how to use the
vacuum pump to pump down the system and check for leaks.
Now you are ready to fill it back up with refrigerant. Best to have a
good set of hoses so you can measure high and low pressure.
Educate yourself on how the systems work before you even think of
beginning. Once you understand how the system works it isn't all that
complicated. It can be damn aggravating though when you do all that
work and still have a leak and get to start all over again at step 1
Steve B.
wrote:
>Hi,
>
>I'm a knucklehead DIYer. Last fall I successfully replaced the
>radiator on my Toyota T100 pickup.
You can do this, but you need to decide first if you want to learn how
and if you are planning to do it again. The tools to do the job right
will cost more than having it done, but you end up with the tools
which usually makes it worth it to me.
You should have a shop recover the 134a that is still in the system.
You can also just vent it, but that's not real legal or good for the
environment so at least pretend you had it recovered if you don't.
You will need new O-Rings at the connections for the new condenser
You need a new dryer.
You will loose oil in the old condenser and dryer. How much is a hard
guess. The FSM probably gives you a guesstimate. I usually just
drain the compressor, and flush the condenser (and I replace the
expansion device while I have it out). Then you can feel pretty safe
with putting back the factory fill amount.
After all that is done you have to use a Vacuum pump to pump down the
system and remove all the air. If you skip this step it doesn't cool
real well and the air and oil turn in to corrosive stew that eats
holes in everything else. Do a little research on how to use the
vacuum pump to pump down the system and check for leaks.
Now you are ready to fill it back up with refrigerant. Best to have a
good set of hoses so you can measure high and low pressure.
Educate yourself on how the systems work before you even think of
beginning. Once you understand how the system works it isn't all that
complicated. It can be damn aggravating though when you do all that
work and still have a leak and get to start all over again at step 1
Steve B.
In article
<d7b4cc4a-2581-4fcb-8765-41ef9594fa93@j22g2000hsf.googlegroups . com >,
Bardy <bardiferous@gmail . com > wrote:
> Hi,
>
> I'm a knucklehead DIYer. Last fall I successfully replaced the
> radiator on my Toyota T100 pickup.
>
> Now I'm trying to replace the AC condenser. After several years of
> slow leaks & seaonal R134a refills, I began to notice shiny, neon
> green around some of the condenser coils.
Assuming that tracer dye has been added...
> It's been quite a while since the last charge. I'm guessing there
> isn't much refrigerant left.
Push on one of the service valves with a pocket screwdriver.
> Question(s): Can I unbolt the old condenser and pop on the new one?
Probably.
> Do I need new seals/gaskets?
Absolutely.
> Do I need to somehow prime the new
> condenser?
"Prime?" No. Do remove the shipping caps from the fittings though.
> Is there any chance there would be any refrigerant left?
Why would it matter?
> Do I need to add oil into the system?
Yes, the condenser (and all other components) has an oil capacity
specification.
Use the correct oil type and viscosity.
> Do I need other parts, or
> tools?
Replace the receiver/drier.
> I assume I'm in over my head, that's nothing new. But can I come out
> the other side with all ten digits attached and possibly a working,
> chilly AC? Summer's coming....
Cap off any open fittings while you work.
Best would be to flush the entire system and add back the correct amount
of oil to each component as specified by Toyota.
Too much oil = poor cooling, too little oil = seized compressor.
Pull a deep vacuum to 500-700 microns, shut off vacuum pump and isolate
and watch for a vacuum rise.
> Oh, yeah. I bought a Silla condenser, new, that's supposed to be a
> direct fit replacement, with a lifetime warranty.
Never heard of the brand. Hope it's not cheap Chinese knock off crap.
<d7b4cc4a-2581-4fcb-8765-41ef9594fa93@j22g2000hsf.googlegroups . com >,
Bardy <bardiferous@gmail . com > wrote:
> Hi,
>
> I'm a knucklehead DIYer. Last fall I successfully replaced the
> radiator on my Toyota T100 pickup.
>
> Now I'm trying to replace the AC condenser. After several years of
> slow leaks & seaonal R134a refills, I began to notice shiny, neon
> green around some of the condenser coils.
Assuming that tracer dye has been added...
> It's been quite a while since the last charge. I'm guessing there
> isn't much refrigerant left.
Push on one of the service valves with a pocket screwdriver.
> Question(s): Can I unbolt the old condenser and pop on the new one?
Probably.
> Do I need new seals/gaskets?
Absolutely.
> Do I need to somehow prime the new
> condenser?
"Prime?" No. Do remove the shipping caps from the fittings though.
> Is there any chance there would be any refrigerant left?
Why would it matter?
> Do I need to add oil into the system?
Yes, the condenser (and all other components) has an oil capacity
specification.
Use the correct oil type and viscosity.
> Do I need other parts, or
> tools?
Replace the receiver/drier.
> I assume I'm in over my head, that's nothing new. But can I come out
> the other side with all ten digits attached and possibly a working,
> chilly AC? Summer's coming....
Cap off any open fittings while you work.
Best would be to flush the entire system and add back the correct amount
of oil to each component as specified by Toyota.
Too much oil = poor cooling, too little oil = seized compressor.
Pull a deep vacuum to 500-700 microns, shut off vacuum pump and isolate
and watch for a vacuum rise.
> Oh, yeah. I bought a Silla condenser, new, that's supposed to be a
> direct fit replacement, with a lifetime warranty.
Never heard of the brand. Hope it's not cheap Chinese knock off crap.
