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6" Kenwood speakers
6" Kenwood speakers
Hi all
My son bought some 6" Kenwood speakers from a local
shop, not cheapies, and we installed them on the rear
parcel shelf of his car on Sunday.
If we crank the volume (to around 75%) and bass up the
distortion is really severe.
You can see the cones bouncing up and down and they
make a vibrating sound which is very unpleasant so he
has to either lower the volume of reduce the bass to
eliminate this noise.
What I'd like to know is if this effect is just a
limitation of 6" speakers or whether the speakers
themselves aren't up to par or if there's any way of
reducing this distortion to acceptable levels.
Would housing the speakers in boxes placed above the
shelf help?
Thanks
Neil.
Hi all
My son bought some 6" Kenwood speakers from a local
shop, not cheapies, and we installed them on the rear
parcel shelf of his car on Sunday.
If we crank the volume (to around 75%) and bass up the
distortion is really severe.
You can see the cones bouncing up and down and they
make a vibrating sound which is very unpleasant so he
has to either lower the volume of reduce the bass to
eliminate this noise.
What I'd like to know is if this effect is just a
limitation of 6" speakers or whether the speakers
themselves aren't up to par or if there's any way of
reducing this distortion to acceptable levels.
Would housing the speakers in boxes placed above the
shelf help?
Thanks
Neil.
Re: 6" Kenwood speakers
Neil Green wrote:
> Hi all
> My son bought some 6" Kenwood speakers from a local
> shop, not cheapies, and we installed them on the rear
> parcel shelf of his car on Sunday.
> If we crank the volume (to around 75%) and bass up the
> distortion is really severe.
> You can see the cones bouncing up and down and they
> make a vibrating sound which is very unpleasant so he
> has to either lower the volume of reduce the bass to
> eliminate this noise.
> What I'd like to know is if this effect is just a
> limitation of 6" speakers or whether the speakers
> themselves aren't up to par or if there's any way of
> reducing this distortion to acceptable levels.
> Would housing the speakers in boxes placed above the
> shelf help?
> Thanks
> Neil.
What sort of car? What sort of parcel shelf? Without the speakers
being mounted in a solid baffle, you'll lose some bass production simply
through cancellation.
Most 6" speakers won't produce a lot of bass to begin with, but proper
mounting will produce a better bass response and you won't need to crank
the bass knob as much.
Neil Green wrote:
> Hi all
> My son bought some 6" Kenwood speakers from a local
> shop, not cheapies, and we installed them on the rear
> parcel shelf of his car on Sunday.
> If we crank the volume (to around 75%) and bass up the
> distortion is really severe.
> You can see the cones bouncing up and down and they
> make a vibrating sound which is very unpleasant so he
> has to either lower the volume of reduce the bass to
> eliminate this noise.
> What I'd like to know is if this effect is just a
> limitation of 6" speakers or whether the speakers
> themselves aren't up to par or if there's any way of
> reducing this distortion to acceptable levels.
> Would housing the speakers in boxes placed above the
> shelf help?
> Thanks
> Neil.
What sort of car? What sort of parcel shelf? Without the speakers
being mounted in a solid baffle, you'll lose some bass production simply
through cancellation.
Most 6" speakers won't produce a lot of bass to begin with, but proper
mounting will produce a better bass response and you won't need to crank
the bass knob as much.
Re: 6" Kenwood speakers
"Matt Ion" <soundy106@gmail,com > wrote in message
news:fvof11$8ee$1@registered.motzarella.org...
> Neil Green wrote:
>> Hi all
>> My son bought some 6" Kenwood speakers from a local
>> shop, not cheapies, and we installed them on the
>> rear parcel shelf of his car on Sunday.
>> If we crank the volume (to around 75%) and bass up
>> the distortion is really severe.
>> You can see the cones bouncing up and down and they
>> make a vibrating sound which is very unpleasant so
>> he has to either lower the volume of reduce the
>> bass to eliminate this noise.
>> What I'd like to know is if this effect is just a
>> limitation of 6" speakers or whether the speakers
>> themselves aren't up to par or if there's any way
>> of reducing this distortion to acceptable levels.
>> Would housing the speakers in boxes placed above
>> the shelf help?
>> Thanks
>> Neil.
>
> What sort of car? What sort of parcel shelf?
> Without the speakers being mounted in a solid
> baffle, you'll lose some bass production simply
> through cancellation.
It's a Nissan sedan, the parcel shelf has cutouts in
the steel for the original speakers which suit the 6"
Kenwoods.
It also has a fabric covered composite board insert
over the steel shelf.
I thouhjt I could make some MDF boxes and mount them
on top of the shelf, but if that doesn't reduce the
distortion it will be a waste of time.
>
> Most 6" speakers won't produce a lot of bass to
> begin with, but proper mounting will produce a
> better bass response and you won't need to crank the
> bass knob as much.
So is it worth making the boxes?
I was thinking 12mm MDF, and paint them matt black.
"Matt Ion" <soundy106@gmail,com > wrote in message
news:fvof11$8ee$1@registered.motzarella.org...
> Neil Green wrote:
>> Hi all
>> My son bought some 6" Kenwood speakers from a local
>> shop, not cheapies, and we installed them on the
>> rear parcel shelf of his car on Sunday.
>> If we crank the volume (to around 75%) and bass up
>> the distortion is really severe.
>> You can see the cones bouncing up and down and they
>> make a vibrating sound which is very unpleasant so
>> he has to either lower the volume of reduce the
>> bass to eliminate this noise.
>> What I'd like to know is if this effect is just a
>> limitation of 6" speakers or whether the speakers
>> themselves aren't up to par or if there's any way
>> of reducing this distortion to acceptable levels.
>> Would housing the speakers in boxes placed above
>> the shelf help?
>> Thanks
>> Neil.
>
> What sort of car? What sort of parcel shelf?
> Without the speakers being mounted in a solid
> baffle, you'll lose some bass production simply
> through cancellation.
It's a Nissan sedan, the parcel shelf has cutouts in
the steel for the original speakers which suit the 6"
Kenwoods.
It also has a fabric covered composite board insert
over the steel shelf.
I thouhjt I could make some MDF boxes and mount them
on top of the shelf, but if that doesn't reduce the
distortion it will be a waste of time.
>
> Most 6" speakers won't produce a lot of bass to
> begin with, but proper mounting will produce a
> better bass response and you won't need to crank the
> bass knob as much.
So is it worth making the boxes?
I was thinking 12mm MDF, and paint them matt black.
Re: 6" Kenwood speakers
Neil Green wrote:
> "Matt Ion" <soundy106@gmail,com > wrote in message
> news:fvof11$8ee$1@registered.motzarella.org...
>> Neil Green wrote:
>>> Hi all
>>> My son bought some 6" Kenwood speakers from a local
>>> shop, not cheapies, and we installed them on the
>>> rear parcel shelf of his car on Sunday.
>>> If we crank the volume (to around 75%) and bass up
>>> the distortion is really severe.
>>> You can see the cones bouncing up and down and they
>>> make a vibrating sound which is very unpleasant so
>>> he has to either lower the volume of reduce the
>>> bass to eliminate this noise.
>>> What I'd like to know is if this effect is just a
>>> limitation of 6" speakers or whether the speakers
>>> themselves aren't up to par or if there's any way
>>> of reducing this distortion to acceptable levels.
>>> Would housing the speakers in boxes placed above
>>> the shelf help?
>>> Thanks
>>> Neil.
>> What sort of car? What sort of parcel shelf?
>> Without the speakers being mounted in a solid
>> baffle, you'll lose some bass production simply
>> through cancellation.
>
> It's a Nissan sedan, the parcel shelf has cutouts in
> the steel for the original speakers which suit the 6"
> Kenwoods.
> It also has a fabric covered composite board insert
> over the steel shelf.
> I thouhjt I could make some MDF boxes and mount them
> on top of the shelf, but if that doesn't reduce the
> distortion it will be a waste of time.
>
>> Most 6" speakers won't produce a lot of bass to
>> begin with, but proper mounting will produce a
>> better bass response and you won't need to crank the
>> bass knob as much.
>
> So is it worth making the boxes?
> I was thinking 12mm MDF, and paint them matt black.
Those type of speakers are generally designed for an "infinite baffle"
type setup, meaning they're not intended to have a box behind them.
It'll work, and probably get rid of most of the "flapping" of the cones,
but it won't really give you much better bass response simply by the
lack of air behind the speakers. (see
http :// www .the12volt,com /caraudio/boxes1.asp)
The problem you have is that there are probably other cutouts in that
steel deck, and the cardboard panel (since that's really what it is,
just stiff cardboard) over it is effectively "transparent" to most of
the bass frequencies, so the mounting location has limited usefulness as
a baffle. The ideal solution for using those speakers would be to build
a more solid deck to replace or complement the cardboard insert. Even
1/4" (6mm) MDF would be a significant improvement.
One other thing you want to check is the speaker phase - make sure both
+ terminals in the wiring are connected to the appropriate + terminal on
each speaker. If the speakers are out of phase with each other (+/-
reversed), the two cones will be working against each other and
canceling bass that way.
Ultimately, you want a separate sub and amp to get any sort of decent
bass - 6" speakers like that simply aren't designed to move a lot of
air, and most decks don't produce the power to move them very much.
Neil Green wrote:
> "Matt Ion" <soundy106@gmail,com > wrote in message
> news:fvof11$8ee$1@registered.motzarella.org...
>> Neil Green wrote:
>>> Hi all
>>> My son bought some 6" Kenwood speakers from a local
>>> shop, not cheapies, and we installed them on the
>>> rear parcel shelf of his car on Sunday.
>>> If we crank the volume (to around 75%) and bass up
>>> the distortion is really severe.
>>> You can see the cones bouncing up and down and they
>>> make a vibrating sound which is very unpleasant so
>>> he has to either lower the volume of reduce the
>>> bass to eliminate this noise.
>>> What I'd like to know is if this effect is just a
>>> limitation of 6" speakers or whether the speakers
>>> themselves aren't up to par or if there's any way
>>> of reducing this distortion to acceptable levels.
>>> Would housing the speakers in boxes placed above
>>> the shelf help?
>>> Thanks
>>> Neil.
>> What sort of car? What sort of parcel shelf?
>> Without the speakers being mounted in a solid
>> baffle, you'll lose some bass production simply
>> through cancellation.
>
> It's a Nissan sedan, the parcel shelf has cutouts in
> the steel for the original speakers which suit the 6"
> Kenwoods.
> It also has a fabric covered composite board insert
> over the steel shelf.
> I thouhjt I could make some MDF boxes and mount them
> on top of the shelf, but if that doesn't reduce the
> distortion it will be a waste of time.
>
>> Most 6" speakers won't produce a lot of bass to
>> begin with, but proper mounting will produce a
>> better bass response and you won't need to crank the
>> bass knob as much.
>
> So is it worth making the boxes?
> I was thinking 12mm MDF, and paint them matt black.
Those type of speakers are generally designed for an "infinite baffle"
type setup, meaning they're not intended to have a box behind them.
It'll work, and probably get rid of most of the "flapping" of the cones,
but it won't really give you much better bass response simply by the
lack of air behind the speakers. (see
http :// www .the12volt,com /caraudio/boxes1.asp)
The problem you have is that there are probably other cutouts in that
steel deck, and the cardboard panel (since that's really what it is,
just stiff cardboard) over it is effectively "transparent" to most of
the bass frequencies, so the mounting location has limited usefulness as
a baffle. The ideal solution for using those speakers would be to build
a more solid deck to replace or complement the cardboard insert. Even
1/4" (6mm) MDF would be a significant improvement.
One other thing you want to check is the speaker phase - make sure both
+ terminals in the wiring are connected to the appropriate + terminal on
each speaker. If the speakers are out of phase with each other (+/-
reversed), the two cones will be working against each other and
canceling bass that way.
Ultimately, you want a separate sub and amp to get any sort of decent
bass - 6" speakers like that simply aren't designed to move a lot of
air, and most decks don't produce the power to move them very much.
Re: 6" Kenwood speakers
"Matt Ion" <soundy106@gmail,com > wrote in message
news:fvohu4$ion$1@registered.motzarella.org...
> Neil Green wrote:
>> "Matt Ion" <soundy106@gmail,com > wrote in message
>> news:fvof11$8ee$1@registered.motzarella.org...
>>> Neil Green wrote:
>>>> Hi all
>>>> My son bought some 6" Kenwood speakers from a
>>>> local shop, not cheapies, and we installed them
>>>> on the rear parcel shelf of his car on Sunday.
>>>> If we crank the volume (to around 75%) and bass
>>>> up the distortion is really severe.
>>>> You can see the cones bouncing up and down and
>>>> they make a vibrating sound which is very
>>>> unpleasant so he has to either lower the volume
>>>> of reduce the bass to eliminate this noise.
>>>> What I'd like to know is if this effect is just a
>>>> limitation of 6" speakers or whether the speakers
>>>> themselves aren't up to par or if there's any way
>>>> of reducing this distortion to acceptable levels.
>>>> Would housing the speakers in boxes placed above
>>>> the shelf help?
>>>> Thanks
>>>> Neil.
>>> What sort of car? What sort of parcel shelf?
>>> Without the speakers being mounted in a solid
>>> baffle, you'll lose some bass production simply
>>> through cancellation.
>>
>> It's a Nissan sedan, the parcel shelf has cutouts
>> in the steel for the original speakers which suit
>> the 6" Kenwoods.
>> It also has a fabric covered composite board insert
>> over the steel shelf.
>> I thouhjt I could make some MDF boxes and mount
>> them on top of the shelf, but if that doesn't
>> reduce the distortion it will be a waste of time.
>>
>>> Most 6" speakers won't produce a lot of bass to
>>> begin with, but proper mounting will produce a
>>> better bass response and you won't need to crank
>>> the bass knob as much.
>>
>> So is it worth making the boxes?
>> I was thinking 12mm MDF, and paint them matt black.
>
> Those type of speakers are generally designed for an
> "infinite baffle" type setup, meaning they're not
> intended to have a box behind them. It'll work, and
> probably get rid of most of the "flapping" of the
> cones, but it won't really give you much better bass
> response simply by the lack of air behind the
> speakers. (see
> http :// www .the12volt,com /caraudio/boxes1.asp)
It's the "flapping" as you call it that's the major
concern for my son, and not the bass response as such.
I could leave the bootom of the box open and place it
over the cutout with some cloth or similar to restrict
the air flow to the back of the cones.
Would that work?
>
> The problem you have is that there are probably
> other cutouts in that steel deck, and the cardboard
> panel (since that's really what it is, just stiff
> cardboard) over it is effectively "transparent" to
> most of the bass frequencies, so the mounting
> location has limited usefulness as a baffle. The
> ideal solution for using those speakers would be to
> build a more solid deck to replace or complement the
> cardboard insert. Even 1/4" (6mm) MDF would be a
> significant improvement.
Easily done.
>
> One other thing you want to check is the speaker
> phase - make sure both + terminals in the wiring are
> connected to the appropriate + terminal on each
> speaker. If the speakers are out of phase with each
> other (+/- reversed), the two cones will be working
> against each other and canceling bass that way.
Checked that with a meter, all OK.
>
> Ultimately, you want a separate sub and amp to get
> any sort of decent bass - 6" speakers like that
> simply aren't designed to move a lot of air, and
> most decks don't produce the power to move them very
> much.
I thought as much, but all he really wants is a nice
clean sound without the rumbling.
"Matt Ion" <soundy106@gmail,com > wrote in message
news:fvohu4$ion$1@registered.motzarella.org...
> Neil Green wrote:
>> "Matt Ion" <soundy106@gmail,com > wrote in message
>> news:fvof11$8ee$1@registered.motzarella.org...
>>> Neil Green wrote:
>>>> Hi all
>>>> My son bought some 6" Kenwood speakers from a
>>>> local shop, not cheapies, and we installed them
>>>> on the rear parcel shelf of his car on Sunday.
>>>> If we crank the volume (to around 75%) and bass
>>>> up the distortion is really severe.
>>>> You can see the cones bouncing up and down and
>>>> they make a vibrating sound which is very
>>>> unpleasant so he has to either lower the volume
>>>> of reduce the bass to eliminate this noise.
>>>> What I'd like to know is if this effect is just a
>>>> limitation of 6" speakers or whether the speakers
>>>> themselves aren't up to par or if there's any way
>>>> of reducing this distortion to acceptable levels.
>>>> Would housing the speakers in boxes placed above
>>>> the shelf help?
>>>> Thanks
>>>> Neil.
>>> What sort of car? What sort of parcel shelf?
>>> Without the speakers being mounted in a solid
>>> baffle, you'll lose some bass production simply
>>> through cancellation.
>>
>> It's a Nissan sedan, the parcel shelf has cutouts
>> in the steel for the original speakers which suit
>> the 6" Kenwoods.
>> It also has a fabric covered composite board insert
>> over the steel shelf.
>> I thouhjt I could make some MDF boxes and mount
>> them on top of the shelf, but if that doesn't
>> reduce the distortion it will be a waste of time.
>>
>>> Most 6" speakers won't produce a lot of bass to
>>> begin with, but proper mounting will produce a
>>> better bass response and you won't need to crank
>>> the bass knob as much.
>>
>> So is it worth making the boxes?
>> I was thinking 12mm MDF, and paint them matt black.
>
> Those type of speakers are generally designed for an
> "infinite baffle" type setup, meaning they're not
> intended to have a box behind them. It'll work, and
> probably get rid of most of the "flapping" of the
> cones, but it won't really give you much better bass
> response simply by the lack of air behind the
> speakers. (see
> http :// www .the12volt,com /caraudio/boxes1.asp)
It's the "flapping" as you call it that's the major
concern for my son, and not the bass response as such.
I could leave the bootom of the box open and place it
over the cutout with some cloth or similar to restrict
the air flow to the back of the cones.
Would that work?
>
> The problem you have is that there are probably
> other cutouts in that steel deck, and the cardboard
> panel (since that's really what it is, just stiff
> cardboard) over it is effectively "transparent" to
> most of the bass frequencies, so the mounting
> location has limited usefulness as a baffle. The
> ideal solution for using those speakers would be to
> build a more solid deck to replace or complement the
> cardboard insert. Even 1/4" (6mm) MDF would be a
> significant improvement.
Easily done.
>
> One other thing you want to check is the speaker
> phase - make sure both + terminals in the wiring are
> connected to the appropriate + terminal on each
> speaker. If the speakers are out of phase with each
> other (+/- reversed), the two cones will be working
> against each other and canceling bass that way.
Checked that with a meter, all OK.
>
> Ultimately, you want a separate sub and amp to get
> any sort of decent bass - 6" speakers like that
> simply aren't designed to move a lot of air, and
> most decks don't produce the power to move them very
> much.
I thought as much, but all he really wants is a nice
clean sound without the rumbling.
Re: 6" Kenwood speakers
Neil Green wrote:
> "Matt Ion" <soundy106@gmail,com > wrote in message
> news:fvohu4$ion$1@registered.motzarella.org...
>> Neil Green wrote:
>>> "Matt Ion" <soundy106@gmail,com > wrote in message
>>> news:fvof11$8ee$1@registered.motzarella.org...
>>>> Neil Green wrote:
>>>>> Hi all
>>>>> My son bought some 6" Kenwood speakers from a
>>>>> local shop, not cheapies, and we installed them
>>>>> on the rear parcel shelf of his car on Sunday.
>>>>> If we crank the volume (to around 75%) and bass
>>>>> up the distortion is really severe.
>>>>> You can see the cones bouncing up and down and
>>>>> they make a vibrating sound which is very
>>>>> unpleasant so he has to either lower the volume
>>>>> of reduce the bass to eliminate this noise.
>>>>> What I'd like to know is if this effect is just a
>>>>> limitation of 6" speakers or whether the speakers
>>>>> themselves aren't up to par or if there's any way
>>>>> of reducing this distortion to acceptable levels.
>>>>> Would housing the speakers in boxes placed above
>>>>> the shelf help?
>>>>> Thanks
>>>>> Neil.
>>>> What sort of car? What sort of parcel shelf?
>>>> Without the speakers being mounted in a solid
>>>> baffle, you'll lose some bass production simply
>>>> through cancellation.
>>> It's a Nissan sedan, the parcel shelf has cutouts
>>> in the steel for the original speakers which suit
>>> the 6" Kenwoods.
>>> It also has a fabric covered composite board insert
>>> over the steel shelf.
>>> I thouhjt I could make some MDF boxes and mount
>>> them on top of the shelf, but if that doesn't
>>> reduce the distortion it will be a waste of time.
>>>
>>>> Most 6" speakers won't produce a lot of bass to
>>>> begin with, but proper mounting will produce a
>>>> better bass response and you won't need to crank
>>>> the bass knob as much.
>>> So is it worth making the boxes?
>>> I was thinking 12mm MDF, and paint them matt black.
>> Those type of speakers are generally designed for an
>> "infinite baffle" type setup, meaning they're not
>> intended to have a box behind them. It'll work, and
>> probably get rid of most of the "flapping" of the
>> cones, but it won't really give you much better bass
>> response simply by the lack of air behind the
>> speakers. (see
>> http :// www .the12volt,com /caraudio/boxes1.asp)
>
> It's the "flapping" as you call it that's the major
> concern for my son, and not the bass response as such.
> I could leave the bootom of the box open and place it
> over the cutout with some cloth or similar to restrict
> the air flow to the back of the cones.
> Would that work?
Well the "flapping" is likely a result of attempting to get more bass
out of the speakers... solve the bass issue, and the flapping should
take care of itself :) A backless box over the cutout really doesn't
help the problem, as you still get the "leakage" through other cutouts
in the metal.
>> The problem you have is that there are probably
>> other cutouts in that steel deck, and the cardboard
>> panel (since that's really what it is, just stiff
>> cardboard) over it is effectively "transparent" to
>> most of the bass frequencies, so the mounting
>> location has limited usefulness as a baffle. The
>> ideal solution for using those speakers would be to
>> build a more solid deck to replace or complement the
>> cardboard insert. Even 1/4" (6mm) MDF would be a
>> significant improvement.
>
> Easily done.
I'd say that's your first stop then. If possible, use the cardboard
insert as a template to ensure your new insert covers the entire rear
deck - remember, the ultimate goal is no places for air movement between
the top and bottom of the shelf.
>> One other thing you want to check is the speaker
>> phase - make sure both + terminals in the wiring are
>> connected to the appropriate + terminal on each
>> speaker. If the speakers are out of phase with each
>> other (+/- reversed), the two cones will be working
>> against each other and canceling bass that way.
>
> Checked that with a meter, all OK.
A meter won't tell you if the polarity is right. The speakers will be
labeled, the positive terminal probably marked with red and maybe wider
than the other. If you're using the factory wiring, one will PROBABLY
have a larger/wider terminal lug on it. However, if they're the same
size or have had new connectors spliced on to them, you may need to dig
a little deeper.
Is this car running the stock deck as well, or is it an aftermarket deck?
>> Ultimately, you want a separate sub and amp to get
>> any sort of decent bass - 6" speakers like that
>> simply aren't designed to move a lot of air, and
>> most decks don't produce the power to move them very
>> much.
>
> I thought as much, but all he really wants is a nice
> clean sound without the rumbling.
A basic sealed box with an 8" sub will give him nice clean bottom end
without need of massive amounts of amp power. The bass can then be
filtered out of the 6s.
Neil Green wrote:
> "Matt Ion" <soundy106@gmail,com > wrote in message
> news:fvohu4$ion$1@registered.motzarella.org...
>> Neil Green wrote:
>>> "Matt Ion" <soundy106@gmail,com > wrote in message
>>> news:fvof11$8ee$1@registered.motzarella.org...
>>>> Neil Green wrote:
>>>>> Hi all
>>>>> My son bought some 6" Kenwood speakers from a
>>>>> local shop, not cheapies, and we installed them
>>>>> on the rear parcel shelf of his car on Sunday.
>>>>> If we crank the volume (to around 75%) and bass
>>>>> up the distortion is really severe.
>>>>> You can see the cones bouncing up and down and
>>>>> they make a vibrating sound which is very
>>>>> unpleasant so he has to either lower the volume
>>>>> of reduce the bass to eliminate this noise.
>>>>> What I'd like to know is if this effect is just a
>>>>> limitation of 6" speakers or whether the speakers
>>>>> themselves aren't up to par or if there's any way
>>>>> of reducing this distortion to acceptable levels.
>>>>> Would housing the speakers in boxes placed above
>>>>> the shelf help?
>>>>> Thanks
>>>>> Neil.
>>>> What sort of car? What sort of parcel shelf?
>>>> Without the speakers being mounted in a solid
>>>> baffle, you'll lose some bass production simply
>>>> through cancellation.
>>> It's a Nissan sedan, the parcel shelf has cutouts
>>> in the steel for the original speakers which suit
>>> the 6" Kenwoods.
>>> It also has a fabric covered composite board insert
>>> over the steel shelf.
>>> I thouhjt I could make some MDF boxes and mount
>>> them on top of the shelf, but if that doesn't
>>> reduce the distortion it will be a waste of time.
>>>
>>>> Most 6" speakers won't produce a lot of bass to
>>>> begin with, but proper mounting will produce a
>>>> better bass response and you won't need to crank
>>>> the bass knob as much.
>>> So is it worth making the boxes?
>>> I was thinking 12mm MDF, and paint them matt black.
>> Those type of speakers are generally designed for an
>> "infinite baffle" type setup, meaning they're not
>> intended to have a box behind them. It'll work, and
>> probably get rid of most of the "flapping" of the
>> cones, but it won't really give you much better bass
>> response simply by the lack of air behind the
>> speakers. (see
>> http :// www .the12volt,com /caraudio/boxes1.asp)
>
> It's the "flapping" as you call it that's the major
> concern for my son, and not the bass response as such.
> I could leave the bootom of the box open and place it
> over the cutout with some cloth or similar to restrict
> the air flow to the back of the cones.
> Would that work?
Well the "flapping" is likely a result of attempting to get more bass
out of the speakers... solve the bass issue, and the flapping should
take care of itself :) A backless box over the cutout really doesn't
help the problem, as you still get the "leakage" through other cutouts
in the metal.
>> The problem you have is that there are probably
>> other cutouts in that steel deck, and the cardboard
>> panel (since that's really what it is, just stiff
>> cardboard) over it is effectively "transparent" to
>> most of the bass frequencies, so the mounting
>> location has limited usefulness as a baffle. The
>> ideal solution for using those speakers would be to
>> build a more solid deck to replace or complement the
>> cardboard insert. Even 1/4" (6mm) MDF would be a
>> significant improvement.
>
> Easily done.
I'd say that's your first stop then. If possible, use the cardboard
insert as a template to ensure your new insert covers the entire rear
deck - remember, the ultimate goal is no places for air movement between
the top and bottom of the shelf.
>> One other thing you want to check is the speaker
>> phase - make sure both + terminals in the wiring are
>> connected to the appropriate + terminal on each
>> speaker. If the speakers are out of phase with each
>> other (+/- reversed), the two cones will be working
>> against each other and canceling bass that way.
>
> Checked that with a meter, all OK.
A meter won't tell you if the polarity is right. The speakers will be
labeled, the positive terminal probably marked with red and maybe wider
than the other. If you're using the factory wiring, one will PROBABLY
have a larger/wider terminal lug on it. However, if they're the same
size or have had new connectors spliced on to them, you may need to dig
a little deeper.
Is this car running the stock deck as well, or is it an aftermarket deck?
>> Ultimately, you want a separate sub and amp to get
>> any sort of decent bass - 6" speakers like that
>> simply aren't designed to move a lot of air, and
>> most decks don't produce the power to move them very
>> much.
>
> I thought as much, but all he really wants is a nice
> clean sound without the rumbling.
A basic sealed box with an 8" sub will give him nice clean bottom end
without need of massive amounts of amp power. The bass can then be
filtered out of the 6s.
Re: 6" Kenwood speakers
"Matt Ion" <soundy106@gmail,com > wrote in message
news:fvp0di$crg$1@registered.motzarella.org...
> Neil Green wrote:
>> "Matt Ion" <soundy106@gmail,com > wrote in message
>> news:fvohu4$ion$1@registered.motzarella.org...
>>> Neil Green wrote:
>>>> "Matt Ion" <soundy106@gmail,com > wrote in message
>>>> news:fvof11$8ee$1@registered.motzarella.org...
>>>>> Neil Green wrote:
>>>>>> Hi all
>>>>>> My son bought some 6" Kenwood speakers from a
>>>>>> local shop, not cheapies, and we installed them
>>>>>> on the rear parcel shelf of his car on Sunday.
>>>>>> If we crank the volume (to around 75%) and bass
>>>>>> up the distortion is really severe.
>>>>>> You can see the cones bouncing up and down and
>>>>>> they make a vibrating sound which is very
>>>>>> unpleasant so he has to either lower the volume
>>>>>> of reduce the bass to eliminate this noise.
>>>>>> What I'd like to know is if this effect is just
>>>>>> a limitation of 6" speakers or whether the
>>>>>> speakers themselves aren't up to par or if
>>>>>> there's any way of reducing this distortion to
>>>>>> acceptable levels.
>>>>>> Would housing the speakers in boxes placed
>>>>>> above the shelf help?
>>>>>> Thanks
>>>>>> Neil.
>>>>> What sort of car? What sort of parcel shelf?
>>>>> Without the speakers being mounted in a solid
>>>>> baffle, you'll lose some bass production simply
>>>>> through cancellation.
>>>> It's a Nissan sedan, the parcel shelf has cutouts
>>>> in the steel for the original speakers which suit
>>>> the 6" Kenwoods.
>>>> It also has a fabric covered composite board
>>>> insert over the steel shelf.
>>>> I thouhjt I could make some MDF boxes and mount
>>>> them on top of the shelf, but if that doesn't
>>>> reduce the distortion it will be a waste of time.
>>>>
>>>>> Most 6" speakers won't produce a lot of bass to
>>>>> begin with, but proper mounting will produce a
>>>>> better bass response and you won't need to crank
>>>>> the bass knob as much.
>>>> So is it worth making the boxes?
>>>> I was thinking 12mm MDF, and paint them matt
>>>> black.
>>> Those type of speakers are generally designed for
>>> an "infinite baffle" type setup, meaning they're
>>> not intended to have a box behind them. It'll
>>> work, and probably get rid of most of the
>>> "flapping" of the cones, but it won't really give
>>> you much better bass response simply by the lack
>>> of air behind the speakers. (see
>>> http :// www .the12volt,com /caraudio/boxes1.asp)
>>
>> It's the "flapping" as you call it that's the major
>> concern for my son, and not the bass response as
>> such.
>> I could leave the bootom of the box open and place
>> it over the cutout with some cloth or similar to
>> restrict the air flow to the back of the cones.
>> Would that work?
>
> Well the "flapping" is likely a result of attempting
> to get more bass out of the speakers... solve the
> bass issue, and the flapping should take care of
> itself :) A backless box over the cutout really
> doesn't help the problem, as you still get the
> "leakage" through other cutouts in the metal.
I follow.
>
>>> The problem you have is that there are probably
>>> other cutouts in that steel deck, and the
>>> cardboard panel (since that's really what it is,
>>> just stiff cardboard) over it is effectively
>>> "transparent" to most of the bass frequencies, so
>>> the mounting location has limited usefulness as a
>>> baffle. The ideal solution for using those
>>> speakers would be to build a more solid deck to
>>> replace or complement the cardboard insert. Even
>>> 1/4" (6mm) MDF would be a significant improvement.
>>
>> Easily done.
>
> I'd say that's your first stop then. If possible,
> use the cardboard insert as a template to ensure
> your new insert covers the entire rear deck -
> remember, the ultimate goal is no places for air
> movement between the top and bottom of the shelf.
A job for the weekend, thanks for the advice.
>
>>> One other thing you want to check is the speaker
>>> phase - make sure both + terminals in the wiring
>>> are connected to the appropriate + terminal on
>>> each speaker. If the speakers are out of phase
>>> with each other (+/- reversed), the two cones will
>>> be working against each other and canceling bass
>>> that way.
>>
>> Checked that with a meter, all OK.
>
> A meter won't tell you if the polarity is right.
Mine does.
A minus sign displays if the polarity is wrong as you
measure the voltage.
All OK.
<The speakers will be
> labeled, the positive terminal probably marked with
> red and maybe wider than the other. If you're using
> the factory wiring, one will PROBABLY have a
> larger/wider terminal lug on it. However, if
> they're the same size or have had new connectors
> spliced on to them, you may need to dig a little
> deeper.
>
> Is this car running the stock deck as well, or is it
> an aftermarket deck?
The stock deck was a cassette player (it's a '92 model
car).
We put a Pioneer head unit in, can't remember the
model but all the reviews were good.
>
>>> Ultimately, you want a separate sub and amp to get
>>> any sort of decent bass - 6" speakers like that
>>> simply aren't designed to move a lot of air, and
>>> most decks don't produce the power to move them
>>> very much.
>>
>> I thought as much, but all he really wants is a
>> nice clean sound without the rumbling.
>
> A basic sealed box with an 8" sub will give him nice
> clean bottom end without need of massive amounts of
> amp power. The bass can then be filtered out of the
> 6s.
No room for a sub I'm afraid, he'll have to live with
less bass or maybe beef up the 7 x 5's in the front
doors and fade more to the front.
Either way he'll have to live with the limitations of
the system.
Thanks very much for your time.
"Matt Ion" <soundy106@gmail,com > wrote in message
news:fvp0di$crg$1@registered.motzarella.org...
> Neil Green wrote:
>> "Matt Ion" <soundy106@gmail,com > wrote in message
>> news:fvohu4$ion$1@registered.motzarella.org...
>>> Neil Green wrote:
>>>> "Matt Ion" <soundy106@gmail,com > wrote in message
>>>> news:fvof11$8ee$1@registered.motzarella.org...
>>>>> Neil Green wrote:
>>>>>> Hi all
>>>>>> My son bought some 6" Kenwood speakers from a
>>>>>> local shop, not cheapies, and we installed them
>>>>>> on the rear parcel shelf of his car on Sunday.
>>>>>> If we crank the volume (to around 75%) and bass
>>>>>> up the distortion is really severe.
>>>>>> You can see the cones bouncing up and down and
>>>>>> they make a vibrating sound which is very
>>>>>> unpleasant so he has to either lower the volume
>>>>>> of reduce the bass to eliminate this noise.
>>>>>> What I'd like to know is if this effect is just
>>>>>> a limitation of 6" speakers or whether the
>>>>>> speakers themselves aren't up to par or if
>>>>>> there's any way of reducing this distortion to
>>>>>> acceptable levels.
>>>>>> Would housing the speakers in boxes placed
>>>>>> above the shelf help?
>>>>>> Thanks
>>>>>> Neil.
>>>>> What sort of car? What sort of parcel shelf?
>>>>> Without the speakers being mounted in a solid
>>>>> baffle, you'll lose some bass production simply
>>>>> through cancellation.
>>>> It's a Nissan sedan, the parcel shelf has cutouts
>>>> in the steel for the original speakers which suit
>>>> the 6" Kenwoods.
>>>> It also has a fabric covered composite board
>>>> insert over the steel shelf.
>>>> I thouhjt I could make some MDF boxes and mount
>>>> them on top of the shelf, but if that doesn't
>>>> reduce the distortion it will be a waste of time.
>>>>
>>>>> Most 6" speakers won't produce a lot of bass to
>>>>> begin with, but proper mounting will produce a
>>>>> better bass response and you won't need to crank
>>>>> the bass knob as much.
>>>> So is it worth making the boxes?
>>>> I was thinking 12mm MDF, and paint them matt
>>>> black.
>>> Those type of speakers are generally designed for
>>> an "infinite baffle" type setup, meaning they're
>>> not intended to have a box behind them. It'll
>>> work, and probably get rid of most of the
>>> "flapping" of the cones, but it won't really give
>>> you much better bass response simply by the lack
>>> of air behind the speakers. (see
>>> http :// www .the12volt,com /caraudio/boxes1.asp)
>>
>> It's the "flapping" as you call it that's the major
>> concern for my son, and not the bass response as
>> such.
>> I could leave the bootom of the box open and place
>> it over the cutout with some cloth or similar to
>> restrict the air flow to the back of the cones.
>> Would that work?
>
> Well the "flapping" is likely a result of attempting
> to get more bass out of the speakers... solve the
> bass issue, and the flapping should take care of
> itself :) A backless box over the cutout really
> doesn't help the problem, as you still get the
> "leakage" through other cutouts in the metal.
I follow.
>
>>> The problem you have is that there are probably
>>> other cutouts in that steel deck, and the
>>> cardboard panel (since that's really what it is,
>>> just stiff cardboard) over it is effectively
>>> "transparent" to most of the bass frequencies, so
>>> the mounting location has limited usefulness as a
>>> baffle. The ideal solution for using those
>>> speakers would be to build a more solid deck to
>>> replace or complement the cardboard insert. Even
>>> 1/4" (6mm) MDF would be a significant improvement.
>>
>> Easily done.
>
> I'd say that's your first stop then. If possible,
> use the cardboard insert as a template to ensure
> your new insert covers the entire rear deck -
> remember, the ultimate goal is no places for air
> movement between the top and bottom of the shelf.
A job for the weekend, thanks for the advice.
>
>>> One other thing you want to check is the speaker
>>> phase - make sure both + terminals in the wiring
>>> are connected to the appropriate + terminal on
>>> each speaker. If the speakers are out of phase
>>> with each other (+/- reversed), the two cones will
>>> be working against each other and canceling bass
>>> that way.
>>
>> Checked that with a meter, all OK.
>
> A meter won't tell you if the polarity is right.
Mine does.
A minus sign displays if the polarity is wrong as you
measure the voltage.
All OK.
<The speakers will be
> labeled, the positive terminal probably marked with
> red and maybe wider than the other. If you're using
> the factory wiring, one will PROBABLY have a
> larger/wider terminal lug on it. However, if
> they're the same size or have had new connectors
> spliced on to them, you may need to dig a little
> deeper.
>
> Is this car running the stock deck as well, or is it
> an aftermarket deck?
The stock deck was a cassette player (it's a '92 model
car).
We put a Pioneer head unit in, can't remember the
model but all the reviews were good.
>
>>> Ultimately, you want a separate sub and amp to get
>>> any sort of decent bass - 6" speakers like that
>>> simply aren't designed to move a lot of air, and
>>> most decks don't produce the power to move them
>>> very much.
>>
>> I thought as much, but all he really wants is a
>> nice clean sound without the rumbling.
>
> A basic sealed box with an 8" sub will give him nice
> clean bottom end without need of massive amounts of
> amp power. The bass can then be filtered out of the
> 6s.
No room for a sub I'm afraid, he'll have to live with
less bass or maybe beef up the 7 x 5's in the front
doors and fade more to the front.
Either way he'll have to live with the limitations of
the system.
Thanks very much for your time.
Re: 6" Kenwood speakers
Neil Green wrote:
>>>> One other thing you want to check is the speaker
>>>> phase - make sure both + terminals in the wiring
>>>> are connected to the appropriate + terminal on
>>>> each speaker. If the speakers are out of phase
>>>> with each other (+/- reversed), the two cones will
>>>> be working against each other and canceling bass
>>>> that way.
>>> Checked that with a meter, all OK.
>> A meter won't tell you if the polarity is right.
>
> Mine does.
> A minus sign displays if the polarity is wrong as you
> measure the voltage.
> All OK.
Umm... what voltage are you measuring?
The signal coming out of the deck is AC; the signal phase has to be the
same in both speakers. There is no "right" or "wrong" polarity as such,
they just have to be the same. A DC meter won't give you a meaningful
reading.
>> Is this car running the stock deck as well, or is it
>> an aftermarket deck?
>
> The stock deck was a cassette player (it's a '92 model
> car).
> We put a Pioneer head unit in, can't remember the
> model but all the reviews were good.
That makes it a little easier then, because you can check the polarity
of the connections to the deck, then confirm them at the speaker end.
If you used the factory speaker wiring, just follow the wiring color
codes and make sure the + and - outputs on the deck properly match the
terminals on the speakers.
>> A basic sealed box with an 8" sub will give him nice
>> clean bottom end without need of massive amounts of
>> amp power. The bass can then be filtered out of the
>> 6s.
>
> No room for a sub I'm afraid, he'll have to live with
> less bass or maybe beef up the 7 x 5's in the front
> doors and fade more to the front.
> Either way he'll have to live with the limitations of
> the system.
> Thanks very much for your time.
There's always room for a sub :) Build a baffle out of 3/4" MDF, put it
behind the back seat, and mount a freeair sub in it, no box required :)
5x7s won't give you significantly more bass than 6" rounds, BTW. Bass
response is a factor of the amount of air moved, and that has two
factors when it comes to the speakers: cone surface area, and excursion.
Not accounting for the tapered shape of the cone itself or differences
in surround width, a 5x7 speaker nominally has about 27.5 sq. in. of
surface area; a 6.5" round speaker has 44 sq. in. of surface area. In
other words, excursion notwithstanding, a 6.5" round speaker moves
almost twice as much as a 5x7.
Neil Green wrote:
>>>> One other thing you want to check is the speaker
>>>> phase - make sure both + terminals in the wiring
>>>> are connected to the appropriate + terminal on
>>>> each speaker. If the speakers are out of phase
>>>> with each other (+/- reversed), the two cones will
>>>> be working against each other and canceling bass
>>>> that way.
>>> Checked that with a meter, all OK.
>> A meter won't tell you if the polarity is right.
>
> Mine does.
> A minus sign displays if the polarity is wrong as you
> measure the voltage.
> All OK.
Umm... what voltage are you measuring?
The signal coming out of the deck is AC; the signal phase has to be the
same in both speakers. There is no "right" or "wrong" polarity as such,
they just have to be the same. A DC meter won't give you a meaningful
reading.
>> Is this car running the stock deck as well, or is it
>> an aftermarket deck?
>
> The stock deck was a cassette player (it's a '92 model
> car).
> We put a Pioneer head unit in, can't remember the
> model but all the reviews were good.
That makes it a little easier then, because you can check the polarity
of the connections to the deck, then confirm them at the speaker end.
If you used the factory speaker wiring, just follow the wiring color
codes and make sure the + and - outputs on the deck properly match the
terminals on the speakers.
>> A basic sealed box with an 8" sub will give him nice
>> clean bottom end without need of massive amounts of
>> amp power. The bass can then be filtered out of the
>> 6s.
>
> No room for a sub I'm afraid, he'll have to live with
> less bass or maybe beef up the 7 x 5's in the front
> doors and fade more to the front.
> Either way he'll have to live with the limitations of
> the system.
> Thanks very much for your time.
There's always room for a sub :) Build a baffle out of 3/4" MDF, put it
behind the back seat, and mount a freeair sub in it, no box required :)
5x7s won't give you significantly more bass than 6" rounds, BTW. Bass
response is a factor of the amount of air moved, and that has two
factors when it comes to the speakers: cone surface area, and excursion.
Not accounting for the tapered shape of the cone itself or differences
in surround width, a 5x7 speaker nominally has about 27.5 sq. in. of
surface area; a 6.5" round speaker has 44 sq. in. of surface area. In
other words, excursion notwithstanding, a 6.5" round speaker moves
almost twice as much as a 5x7.
Re: 6" Kenwood speakers
"Matt Ion" <soundy106@gmail,com > wrote in message
news:fvr4ku$nlr$1@registered.motzarella.org...
> Neil Green wrote:
>
>>>>> One other thing you want to check is the speaker
>>>>> phase - make sure both + terminals in the wiring
>>>>> are connected to the appropriate + terminal on
>>>>> each speaker. If the speakers are out of phase
>>>>> with each other (+/- reversed), the two cones
>>>>> will be working against each other and canceling
>>>>> bass that way.
>>>> Checked that with a meter, all OK.
>>> A meter won't tell you if the polarity is right.
>>
>> Mine does.
>> A minus sign displays if the polarity is wrong as
>> you measure the voltage.
>> All OK.
>
> Umm... what voltage are you measuring?
>
> The signal coming out of the deck is AC; the signal
> phase has to be the same in both speakers. There is
> no "right" or "wrong" polarity as such, they just
> have to be the same. A DC meter won't give you a
> meaningful reading.
The AC bit is news to me, I was under the impression
that the current to the speakers was DC, but as you
can probably tell I'm more or less ignorant in these
matters.
Anyway, the meter showed a minus sign one way and not
the other, and I connected the two speakers
accordingly. (The connectors on the loom of the car
were both the same size so that was no help, replaced
one of them at each speaker with a smaller one)
>
>>> Is this car running the stock deck as well, or is
>>> it an aftermarket deck?
>>
>> The stock deck was a cassette player (it's a '92
>> model car).
>> We put a Pioneer head unit in, can't remember the
>> model but all the reviews were good.
>
> That makes it a little easier then, because you can
> check the polarity of the connections to the deck,
> then confirm them at the speaker end. If you used
> the factory speaker wiring, just follow the wiring
> color codes and make sure the + and - outputs on the
> deck properly match the terminals on the speakers.
My son actually had them written down (good boy!) and
they tallied with how we had the speakers wired so
it's all good as far as that goes.
>
>>> A basic sealed box with an 8" sub will give him
>>> nice clean bottom end without need of massive
>>> amounts of amp power. The bass can then be
>>> filtered out of the 6s.
>>
>> No room for a sub I'm afraid, he'll have to live
>> with less bass or maybe beef up the 7 x 5's in the
>> front doors and fade more to the front.
>> Either way he'll have to live with the limitations
>> of the system.
>> Thanks very much for your time.
>
> There's always room for a sub :) Build a baffle out
> of 3/4" MDF, put it behind the back seat, and mount
> a freeair sub in it, no box required :)
The rear seats fold forward so there's nothing to
mount a sub on, and my son needs the folding seats to
stow golf clubs..
>
> 5x7s won't give you significantly more bass than 6"
> rounds, BTW. Bass response is a factor of the
> amount of air moved, and that has two factors when
> it comes to the speakers: cone surface area, and
> excursion. Not accounting for the tapered shape of
> the cone itself or differences in surround width, a
> 5x7 speaker nominally has about 27.5 sq. in. of
> surface area; a 6.5" round speaker has 44 sq. in. of
> surface area. In other words, excursion
> notwithstanding, a 6.5" round speaker moves almost
> twice as much as a 5x7.
OK, so we make up an MDF parcel shelf and kill a
little of the bass, that's OK.
The system sounds fine apart from the bass distortion
so I'll tell him to go easy.
Once again, thanks very much for your time and
patience.
"Matt Ion" <soundy106@gmail,com > wrote in message
news:fvr4ku$nlr$1@registered.motzarella.org...
> Neil Green wrote:
>
>>>>> One other thing you want to check is the speaker
>>>>> phase - make sure both + terminals in the wiring
>>>>> are connected to the appropriate + terminal on
>>>>> each speaker. If the speakers are out of phase
>>>>> with each other (+/- reversed), the two cones
>>>>> will be working against each other and canceling
>>>>> bass that way.
>>>> Checked that with a meter, all OK.
>>> A meter won't tell you if the polarity is right.
>>
>> Mine does.
>> A minus sign displays if the polarity is wrong as
>> you measure the voltage.
>> All OK.
>
> Umm... what voltage are you measuring?
>
> The signal coming out of the deck is AC; the signal
> phase has to be the same in both speakers. There is
> no "right" or "wrong" polarity as such, they just
> have to be the same. A DC meter won't give you a
> meaningful reading.
The AC bit is news to me, I was under the impression
that the current to the speakers was DC, but as you
can probably tell I'm more or less ignorant in these
matters.
Anyway, the meter showed a minus sign one way and not
the other, and I connected the two speakers
accordingly. (The connectors on the loom of the car
were both the same size so that was no help, replaced
one of them at each speaker with a smaller one)
>
>>> Is this car running the stock deck as well, or is
>>> it an aftermarket deck?
>>
>> The stock deck was a cassette player (it's a '92
>> model car).
>> We put a Pioneer head unit in, can't remember the
>> model but all the reviews were good.
>
> That makes it a little easier then, because you can
> check the polarity of the connections to the deck,
> then confirm them at the speaker end. If you used
> the factory speaker wiring, just follow the wiring
> color codes and make sure the + and - outputs on the
> deck properly match the terminals on the speakers.
My son actually had them written down (good boy!) and
they tallied with how we had the speakers wired so
it's all good as far as that goes.
>
>>> A basic sealed box with an 8" sub will give him
>>> nice clean bottom end without need of massive
>>> amounts of amp power. The bass can then be
>>> filtered out of the 6s.
>>
>> No room for a sub I'm afraid, he'll have to live
>> with less bass or maybe beef up the 7 x 5's in the
>> front doors and fade more to the front.
>> Either way he'll have to live with the limitations
>> of the system.
>> Thanks very much for your time.
>
> There's always room for a sub :) Build a baffle out
> of 3/4" MDF, put it behind the back seat, and mount
> a freeair sub in it, no box required :)
The rear seats fold forward so there's nothing to
mount a sub on, and my son needs the folding seats to
stow golf clubs..
>
> 5x7s won't give you significantly more bass than 6"
> rounds, BTW. Bass response is a factor of the
> amount of air moved, and that has two factors when
> it comes to the speakers: cone surface area, and
> excursion. Not accounting for the tapered shape of
> the cone itself or differences in surround width, a
> 5x7 speaker nominally has about 27.5 sq. in. of
> surface area; a 6.5" round speaker has 44 sq. in. of
> surface area. In other words, excursion
> notwithstanding, a 6.5" round speaker moves almost
> twice as much as a 5x7.
OK, so we make up an MDF parcel shelf and kill a
little of the bass, that's OK.
The system sounds fine apart from the bass distortion
so I'll tell him to go easy.
Once again, thanks very much for your time and
patience.
Re: 6" Kenwood speakers
Neil Green wrote:
>> The signal coming out of the deck is AC; the signal
>> phase has to be the same in both speakers. There is
>> no "right" or "wrong" polarity as such, they just
>> have to be the same. A DC meter won't give you a
>> meaningful reading.
>
> The AC bit is news to me, I was under the impression
> that the current to the speakers was DC, but as you
> can probably tell I'm more or less ignorant in these
> matters.
Not really... just a little n00bish. That's okay, it's always good to
learn something new!
If you feel inspired to understand it a little better, take a browse of
http :// www .bcae1,com ("Basic Car Audio Electronics"), specifically
section 21 on "Audio Output".
> Anyway, the meter showed a minus sign one way and not
> the other, and I connected the two speakers
> accordingly.
It's not unusual for an amplifier's output to have a slight DC offset,
which is probably what you were measuring, but there's no guarantee it
will be the same offset on both channels and thus not a valid indicator
of phase.
(Hmm, it's strange there's not actually a section on "phase" on BCAE...
it's a little crude, but there's a diagram and brief explanation at
http :// www .classictruckshop,com /clubs/earlyburbs/projects/stereo/systems.htm
- scroll down to "speaker phase")
>> That makes it a little easier then, because you can
>> check the polarity of the connections to the deck,
>> then confirm them at the speaker end. If you used
>> the factory speaker wiring, just follow the wiring
>> color codes and make sure the + and - outputs on the
>> deck properly match the terminals on the speakers.
>
> My son actually had them written down (good boy!) and
> they tallied with how we had the speakers wired so
> it's all good as far as that goes.
Excellent!
> The rear seats fold forward so there's nothing to
> mount a sub on, and my son needs the folding seats to
> stow golf clubs..
Ah. Of course, folding the seats down also introduces the acoustic
leakage problem we've been battling thus far, though hopefully not as
severely. He'll have to remember that he'll probably see reduced bass
output from the rear speakers with the seats down, and remember NOT to
try to compensate by cranking the bass control.
> OK, so we make up an MDF parcel shelf and kill a
> little of the bass, that's OK.
> The system sounds fine apart from the bass distortion
> so I'll tell him to go easy.
Turning down the bass control is the actual "fix" for the problem... the
rest of the exercise is intended to improve the speakers' own bass
response, so he doesn't NEED to turn up the knob.
> Once again, thanks very much for your time and
> patience.
No worries!
Neil Green wrote:
>> The signal coming out of the deck is AC; the signal
>> phase has to be the same in both speakers. There is
>> no "right" or "wrong" polarity as such, they just
>> have to be the same. A DC meter won't give you a
>> meaningful reading.
>
> The AC bit is news to me, I was under the impression
> that the current to the speakers was DC, but as you
> can probably tell I'm more or less ignorant in these
> matters.
Not really... just a little n00bish. That's okay, it's always good to
learn something new!
If you feel inspired to understand it a little better, take a browse of
http :// www .bcae1,com ("Basic Car Audio Electronics"), specifically
section 21 on "Audio Output".
> Anyway, the meter showed a minus sign one way and not
> the other, and I connected the two speakers
> accordingly.
It's not unusual for an amplifier's output to have a slight DC offset,
which is probably what you were measuring, but there's no guarantee it
will be the same offset on both channels and thus not a valid indicator
of phase.
(Hmm, it's strange there's not actually a section on "phase" on BCAE...
it's a little crude, but there's a diagram and brief explanation at
http :// www .classictruckshop,com /clubs/earlyburbs/projects/stereo/systems.htm
- scroll down to "speaker phase")
>> That makes it a little easier then, because you can
>> check the polarity of the connections to the deck,
>> then confirm them at the speaker end. If you used
>> the factory speaker wiring, just follow the wiring
>> color codes and make sure the + and - outputs on the
>> deck properly match the terminals on the speakers.
>
> My son actually had them written down (good boy!) and
> they tallied with how we had the speakers wired so
> it's all good as far as that goes.
Excellent!
> The rear seats fold forward so there's nothing to
> mount a sub on, and my son needs the folding seats to
> stow golf clubs..
Ah. Of course, folding the seats down also introduces the acoustic
leakage problem we've been battling thus far, though hopefully not as
severely. He'll have to remember that he'll probably see reduced bass
output from the rear speakers with the seats down, and remember NOT to
try to compensate by cranking the bass control.
> OK, so we make up an MDF parcel shelf and kill a
> little of the bass, that's OK.
> The system sounds fine apart from the bass distortion
> so I'll tell him to go easy.
Turning down the bass control is the actual "fix" for the problem... the
rest of the exercise is intended to improve the speakers' own bass
response, so he doesn't NEED to turn up the knob.
> Once again, thanks very much for your time and
> patience.
No worries!
Re: 6" Kenwood speakers
"Matt Ion" <soundy106@gmail,com > wrote in message
news:fvsfhp$sju$1@registered.motzarella.org...
> Neil Green wrote:
>
>>> The signal coming out of the deck is AC; the
>>> signal phase has to be the same in both speakers.
>>> There is no "right" or "wrong" polarity as such,
>>> they just have to be the same. A DC meter won't
>>> give you a meaningful reading.
>>
>> The AC bit is news to me, I was under the
>> impression that the current to the speakers was DC,
>> but as you can probably tell I'm more or less
>> ignorant in these matters.
>
> Not really... just a little n00bish. That's okay,
> it's always good to learn something new!
I try to do that at least once a day.
So far so good.
>
> If you feel inspired to understand it a little
> better, take a browse of http :// www .bcae1,com
> ("Basic Car Audio Electronics"), specifically
> section 21 on "Audio Output".
Will do.
>
>> Anyway, the meter showed a minus sign one way and
>> not the other, and I connected the two speakers
>> accordingly.
>
> It's not unusual for an amplifier's output to have a
> slight DC offset, which is probably what you were
> measuring, but there's no guarantee it will be the
> same offset on both channels and thus not a valid
> indicator of phase.
Looks like we fluked it then.
1 in 4 chance I guess.
>
> (Hmm, it's strange there's not actually a section on
> "phase" on BCAE... it's a little crude, but there's
> a diagram and brief explanation at
> http :// www .classictruckshop,com /clubs/earlyburbs/projects/stereo/systems.htm -
> scroll down to "speaker phase")
>
>>> That makes it a little easier then, because you
>>> can check the polarity of the connections to the
>>> deck, then confirm them at the speaker end. If you
>>> used the factory speaker wiring, just follow the
>>> wiring color codes and make sure the + and -
>>> outputs on the deck properly match the terminals
>>> on the speakers.
>>
>> My son actually had them written down (good boy!)
>> and they tallied with how we had the speakers wired
>> so it's all good as far as that goes.
>
> Excellent!
He's a good lad.
A chemist by profession, so very thorough and
everything gets documented.
>
>> The rear seats fold forward so there's nothing to
>> mount a sub on, and my son needs the folding seats
>> to stow golf clubs..
>
> Ah. Of course, folding the seats down also
> introduces the acoustic leakage problem we've been
> battling thus far, though hopefully not as severely.
> He'll have to remember that he'll probably see
> reduced bass output from the rear speakers with the
> seats down, and remember NOT to try to compensate by
> cranking the bass control.
>
>> OK, so we make up an MDF parcel shelf and kill a
>> little of the bass, that's OK.
>> The system sounds fine apart from the bass
>> distortion so I'll tell him to go easy.
>
> Turning down the bass control is the actual "fix"
> for the problem... the rest of the exercise is
> intended to improve the speakers' own bass response,
> so he doesn't NEED to turn up the knob.
>
>> Once again, thanks very much for your time and
>> patience.
>
> No worries!
The internet is indeed a wonderful place, people
willing to help just because they can.
I'm a carpenter by trade, and a year or so ago needed
to cut some radius rafters for an old fashioned house.
The common rafters weren't a problem but the two hips
had me stumped so I left a message on a mathematics
newsgroup and had the answer within a day.
Emailed the guy some pictures of the finished article,
he was very happy to see a practical application for
his theoretical knowledge.
So thanks again, and if you need any advice on
building feel free to ask.
Neil.
"Matt Ion" <soundy106@gmail,com > wrote in message
news:fvsfhp$sju$1@registered.motzarella.org...
> Neil Green wrote:
>
>>> The signal coming out of the deck is AC; the
>>> signal phase has to be the same in both speakers.
>>> There is no "right" or "wrong" polarity as such,
>>> they just have to be the same. A DC meter won't
>>> give you a meaningful reading.
>>
>> The AC bit is news to me, I was under the
>> impression that the current to the speakers was DC,
>> but as you can probably tell I'm more or less
>> ignorant in these matters.
>
> Not really... just a little n00bish. That's okay,
> it's always good to learn something new!
I try to do that at least once a day.
So far so good.
>
> If you feel inspired to understand it a little
> better, take a browse of http :// www .bcae1,com
> ("Basic Car Audio Electronics"), specifically
> section 21 on "Audio Output".
Will do.
>
>> Anyway, the meter showed a minus sign one way and
>> not the other, and I connected the two speakers
>> accordingly.
>
> It's not unusual for an amplifier's output to have a
> slight DC offset, which is probably what you were
> measuring, but there's no guarantee it will be the
> same offset on both channels and thus not a valid
> indicator of phase.
Looks like we fluked it then.
1 in 4 chance I guess.
>
> (Hmm, it's strange there's not actually a section on
> "phase" on BCAE... it's a little crude, but there's
> a diagram and brief explanation at
> http :// www .classictruckshop,com /clubs/earlyburbs/projects/stereo/systems.htm -
> scroll down to "speaker phase")
>
>>> That makes it a little easier then, because you
>>> can check the polarity of the connections to the
>>> deck, then confirm them at the speaker end. If you
>>> used the factory speaker wiring, just follow the
>>> wiring color codes and make sure the + and -
>>> outputs on the deck properly match the terminals
>>> on the speakers.
>>
>> My son actually had them written down (good boy!)
>> and they tallied with how we had the speakers wired
>> so it's all good as far as that goes.
>
> Excellent!
He's a good lad.
A chemist by profession, so very thorough and
everything gets documented.
>
>> The rear seats fold forward so there's nothing to
>> mount a sub on, and my son needs the folding seats
>> to stow golf clubs..
>
> Ah. Of course, folding the seats down also
> introduces the acoustic leakage problem we've been
> battling thus far, though hopefully not as severely.
> He'll have to remember that he'll probably see
> reduced bass output from the rear speakers with the
> seats down, and remember NOT to try to compensate by
> cranking the bass control.
>
>> OK, so we make up an MDF parcel shelf and kill a
>> little of the bass, that's OK.
>> The system sounds fine apart from the bass
>> distortion so I'll tell him to go easy.
>
> Turning down the bass control is the actual "fix"
> for the problem... the rest of the exercise is
> intended to improve the speakers' own bass response,
> so he doesn't NEED to turn up the knob.
>
>> Once again, thanks very much for your time and
>> patience.
>
> No worries!
The internet is indeed a wonderful place, people
willing to help just because they can.
I'm a carpenter by trade, and a year or so ago needed
to cut some radius rafters for an old fashioned house.
The common rafters weren't a problem but the two hips
had me stumped so I left a message on a mathematics
newsgroup and had the answer within a day.
Emailed the guy some pictures of the finished article,
he was very happy to see a practical application for
his theoretical knowledge.
So thanks again, and if you need any advice on
building feel free to ask.
Neil.
Re: 6" Kenwood speakers
"Neil Green" <nrgreenNOT@optusnet,com .au> wrote in message
news:481f9e14$0$17508$afc38c87@news.optusnet,com .au
> My son bought some 6" Kenwood speakers from a local
> shop, not cheapies, and we installed them on the rear
> parcel shelf of his car on Sunday.
A sort of a classic kind of installation.
> If we crank the volume (to around 75%) and bass up the
> distortion is really severe.
Either the amplifier is clipping or the speakers are running out of stroke,
or there is some kind of parasitic vibration.
What can you tell us that will help us decide which one it is?
> You can see the cones bouncing up and down
That's normal, to a point.
> and they
> make a vibrating sound which is very unpleasant so he
> has to either lower the volume of reduce the bass to
> eliminate this noise.
Sounds like a parasitic vibration, possibly caused by bad mechanical
installation.
> What I'd like to know is if this effect is just a
> limitation of 6" speakers
While 6" speakers are not the be-all or end-all, a pair of good ones can be
pretty impressive in the small confines of a car. BTW, they are probably 6
1/2", as that is a near standard size.
> or whether the speakers themselves aren't up to par
Without more details, how would anybody know? Model number????
> or if there's any way of
> reducing this distortion to acceptable levels.
Turn them down. ;-)
> Would housing the speakers in boxes placed above the
> shelf help?
Probably not. The trunk makes up a wonderful large enclosure for trapping
the back wave of the right speaker drivers. With the right speakers, it can
work very well.
"Neil Green" <nrgreenNOT@optusnet,com .au> wrote in message
news:481f9e14$0$17508$afc38c87@news.optusnet,com .au
> My son bought some 6" Kenwood speakers from a local
> shop, not cheapies, and we installed them on the rear
> parcel shelf of his car on Sunday.
A sort of a classic kind of installation.
> If we crank the volume (to around 75%) and bass up the
> distortion is really severe.
Either the amplifier is clipping or the speakers are running out of stroke,
or there is some kind of parasitic vibration.
What can you tell us that will help us decide which one it is?
> You can see the cones bouncing up and down
That's normal, to a point.
> and they
> make a vibrating sound which is very unpleasant so he
> has to either lower the volume of reduce the bass to
> eliminate this noise.
Sounds like a parasitic vibration, possibly caused by bad mechanical
installation.
> What I'd like to know is if this effect is just a
> limitation of 6" speakers
While 6" speakers are not the be-all or end-all, a pair of good ones can be
pretty impressive in the small confines of a car. BTW, they are probably 6
1/2", as that is a near standard size.
> or whether the speakers themselves aren't up to par
Without more details, how would anybody know? Model number????
> or if there's any way of
> reducing this distortion to acceptable levels.
Turn them down. ;-)
> Would housing the speakers in boxes placed above the
> shelf help?
Probably not. The trunk makes up a wonderful large enclosure for trapping
the back wave of the right speaker drivers. With the right speakers, it can
work very well.
Re: 6" Kenwood speakers
"Arny Krueger" <arnyk@hotpop,com > wrote in message
news:Gc2dnWSGua6_1b3VnZ2dnUVZ_q-jnZ2d@comcast,com ...
> "Neil Green" <nrgreenNOT@optusnet,com .au> wrote in
> message
> news:481f9e14$0$17508$afc38c87@news.optusnet,com .au
>
>> My son bought some 6" Kenwood speakers from a local
>> shop, not cheapies, and we installed them on the
>> rear
>> parcel shelf of his car on Sunday.
>
> A sort of a classic kind of installation.
>
>> If we crank the volume (to around 75%) and bass up
>> the
>> distortion is really severe.
>
>
> Either the amplifier is clipping or the speakers are
> running out of stroke, or there is some kind of
> parasitic vibration.
>
> What can you tell us that will help us decide which
> one it is?
Nothing really, I have little knowledge of these
things, but the distortion is coming from the speakers
themselves in the form of a coarse vibration so I
doubt it has anything to do with the amplifier.
>
>> You can see the cones bouncing up and down
>
> That's normal, to a point.
>
>> and they
>> make a vibrating sound which is very unpleasant so
>> he
>> has to either lower the volume of reduce the bass
>> to
>> eliminate this noise.
>
> Sounds like a parasitic vibration, possibly caused
> by bad mechanical installation.
They are screwed down tight to the steel parcel shelf
using a small amount of 1.6mm double sided tape at
each fixing point, or which there are four for each
speaker.
I can't see how they could vibrate against the body.
>
>> What I'd like to know is if this effect is just a
>> limitation of 6" speakers
>
> While 6" speakers are not the be-all or end-all, a
> pair of good ones can be pretty impressive in the
> small confines of a car. BTW, they are probably 6
> 1/2", as that is a near standard size.
>
>> or whether the speakers themselves aren't up to par
>
> Without more details, how would anybody know? Model
> number????
Kenwood KFC - M1628A
Not top of the range, but not rubbish, or so the
salesman assured my son.
>
>> or if there's any way of
>> reducing this distortion to acceptable levels.
>
> Turn them down. ;-)
Looks like he will.
>
>> Would housing the speakers in boxes placed above
>> the
>> shelf help?
>
> Probably not. The trunk makes up a wonderful large
> enclosure for trapping the back wave of the right
> speaker drivers. With the right speakers, it can
> work very well.
>
>
"Arny Krueger" <arnyk@hotpop,com > wrote in message
news:Gc2dnWSGua6_1b3VnZ2dnUVZ_q-jnZ2d@comcast,com ...
> "Neil Green" <nrgreenNOT@optusnet,com .au> wrote in
> message
> news:481f9e14$0$17508$afc38c87@news.optusnet,com .au
>
>> My son bought some 6" Kenwood speakers from a local
>> shop, not cheapies, and we installed them on the
>> rear
>> parcel shelf of his car on Sunday.
>
> A sort of a classic kind of installation.
>
>> If we crank the volume (to around 75%) and bass up
>> the
>> distortion is really severe.
>
>
> Either the amplifier is clipping or the speakers are
> running out of stroke, or there is some kind of
> parasitic vibration.
>
> What can you tell us that will help us decide which
> one it is?
Nothing really, I have little knowledge of these
things, but the distortion is coming from the speakers
themselves in the form of a coarse vibration so I
doubt it has anything to do with the amplifier.
>
>> You can see the cones bouncing up and down
>
> That's normal, to a point.
>
>> and they
>> make a vibrating sound which is very unpleasant so
>> he
>> has to either lower the volume of reduce the bass
>> to
>> eliminate this noise.
>
> Sounds like a parasitic vibration, possibly caused
> by bad mechanical installation.
They are screwed down tight to the steel parcel shelf
using a small amount of 1.6mm double sided tape at
each fixing point, or which there are four for each
speaker.
I can't see how they could vibrate against the body.
>
>> What I'd like to know is if this effect is just a
>> limitation of 6" speakers
>
> While 6" speakers are not the be-all or end-all, a
> pair of good ones can be pretty impressive in the
> small confines of a car. BTW, they are probably 6
> 1/2", as that is a near standard size.
>
>> or whether the speakers themselves aren't up to par
>
> Without more details, how would anybody know? Model
> number????
Kenwood KFC - M1628A
Not top of the range, but not rubbish, or so the
salesman assured my son.
>
>> or if there's any way of
>> reducing this distortion to acceptable levels.
>
> Turn them down. ;-)
Looks like he will.
>
>> Would housing the speakers in boxes placed above
>> the
>> shelf help?
>
> Probably not. The trunk makes up a wonderful large
> enclosure for trapping the back wave of the right
> speaker drivers. With the right speakers, it can
> work very well.
>
>
Re: 6" Kenwood speakers
"Neil Green" <nrgreenNOT@optusnet,com .au> wrote in message
news:48215c65$0$1021$afc38c87@news.optusnet,com .au
> "Arny Krueger" <arnyk@hotpop,com > wrote in message
> news:Gc2dnWSGua6_1b3VnZ2dnUVZ_q-jnZ2d@comcast,com ...
>> "Neil Green" <nrgreenNOT@optusnet,com .au> wrote in
>> message
>> news:481f9e14$0$17508$afc38c87@news.optusnet,com .au
>>
>>> My son bought some 6" Kenwood speakers from a local
>>> shop, not cheapies, and we installed them on the
>>> rear
>>> parcel shelf of his car on Sunday.
>>
>> A sort of a classic kind of installation.
>>
>>> If we crank the volume (to around 75%) and bass up
>>> the
>>> distortion is really severe.
>>
>>
>> Either the amplifier is clipping or the speakers are
>> running out of stroke, or there is some kind of
>> parasitic vibration.
>>
>> What can you tell us that will help us decide which
>> one it is?
>
> Nothing really, I have little knowledge of these
> things, but the distortion is coming from the speakers
> themselves in the form of a coarse vibration so I
> doubt it has anything to do with the amplifier.
>
>>
>>> You can see the cones bouncing up and down
>>
>> That's normal, to a point.
>>
>>> and they
>>> make a vibrating sound which is very unpleasant so
>>> he
>>> has to either lower the volume of reduce the bass
>>> to
>>> eliminate this noise.
>>
>> Sounds like a parasitic vibration, possibly caused
>> by bad mechanical installation.
>
> They are screwed down tight to the steel parcel shelf
> using a small amount of 1.6mm double sided tape at
> each fixing point, or which there are four for each
> speaker.
You mean screw + tape, right?
> I can't see how they could vibrate against the body.
Maybe the shelf itself, or a stiff covering...
>>> What I'd like to know is if this effect is just a
>>> limitation of 6" speakers
>> While 6" speakers are not the be-all or end-all, a
>> pair of good ones can be pretty impressive in the
>> small confines of a car. BTW, they are probably 6
>> 1/2", as that is a near standard size.
>>
>>> or whether the speakers themselves aren't up to par
>>
>> Without more details, how would anybody know? Model
>> number????
> Kenwood KFC - M1628A
I get 6.25 inch nominal diameter.
They are a $50/pair class 3-way, which I would not expect too much of.
> Not top of the range, but not rubbish, or so the
> salesman assured my son.
I would say, towards the bottom of the market segment.
>>> or if there's any way of
>>> reducing this distortion to acceptable levels.
>>
>> Turn them down. ;-)
> Looks like he will.
Rarely fails! ;-)
>>> Would housing the speakers in boxes placed above
>>> the
>>> shelf help?
>> Probably not. The trunk makes up a wonderful large
>> enclosure for trapping the back wave of the right
>> speaker drivers. With the right speakers, it can
>> work very well.
I notice that Kenwood recommends using an angled adaptor with these
speakers, in a rear parcel shelf application:
http :// india.kenwood,com /products/car/speakers/kfc-m1628a/features.html
"Neil Green" <nrgreenNOT@optusnet,com .au> wrote in message
news:48215c65$0$1021$afc38c87@news.optusnet,com .au
> "Arny Krueger" <arnyk@hotpop,com > wrote in message
> news:Gc2dnWSGua6_1b3VnZ2dnUVZ_q-jnZ2d@comcast,com ...
>> "Neil Green" <nrgreenNOT@optusnet,com .au> wrote in
>> message
>> news:481f9e14$0$17508$afc38c87@news.optusnet,com .au
>>
>>> My son bought some 6" Kenwood speakers from a local
>>> shop, not cheapies, and we installed them on the
>>> rear
>>> parcel shelf of his car on Sunday.
>>
>> A sort of a classic kind of installation.
>>
>>> If we crank the volume (to around 75%) and bass up
>>> the
>>> distortion is really severe.
>>
>>
>> Either the amplifier is clipping or the speakers are
>> running out of stroke, or there is some kind of
>> parasitic vibration.
>>
>> What can you tell us that will help us decide which
>> one it is?
>
> Nothing really, I have little knowledge of these
> things, but the distortion is coming from the speakers
> themselves in the form of a coarse vibration so I
> doubt it has anything to do with the amplifier.
>
>>
>>> You can see the cones bouncing up and down
>>
>> That's normal, to a point.
>>
>>> and they
>>> make a vibrating sound which is very unpleasant so
>>> he
>>> has to either lower the volume of reduce the bass
>>> to
>>> eliminate this noise.
>>
>> Sounds like a parasitic vibration, possibly caused
>> by bad mechanical installation.
>
> They are screwed down tight to the steel parcel shelf
> using a small amount of 1.6mm double sided tape at
> each fixing point, or which there are four for each
> speaker.
You mean screw + tape, right?
> I can't see how they could vibrate against the body.
Maybe the shelf itself, or a stiff covering...
>>> What I'd like to know is if this effect is just a
>>> limitation of 6" speakers
>> While 6" speakers are not the be-all or end-all, a
>> pair of good ones can be pretty impressive in the
>> small confines of a car. BTW, they are probably 6
>> 1/2", as that is a near standard size.
>>
>>> or whether the speakers themselves aren't up to par
>>
>> Without more details, how would anybody know? Model
>> number????
> Kenwood KFC - M1628A
I get 6.25 inch nominal diameter.
They are a $50/pair class 3-way, which I would not expect too much of.
> Not top of the range, but not rubbish, or so the
> salesman assured my son.
I would say, towards the bottom of the market segment.
>>> or if there's any way of
>>> reducing this distortion to acceptable levels.
>>
>> Turn them down. ;-)
> Looks like he will.
Rarely fails! ;-)
>>> Would housing the speakers in boxes placed above
>>> the
>>> shelf help?
>> Probably not. The trunk makes up a wonderful large
>> enclosure for trapping the back wave of the right
>> speaker drivers. With the right speakers, it can
>> work very well.
I notice that Kenwood recommends using an angled adaptor with these
speakers, in a rear parcel shelf application:
http :// india.kenwood,com /products/car/speakers/kfc-m1628a/features.html
Re: 6" Kenwood speakers
Arny Krueger wrote:
>> They are screwed down tight to the steel parcel shelf
>> using a small amount of 1.6mm double sided tape at
>> each fixing point, or which there are four for each
>> speaker.
>
> You mean screw + tape, right?
Ugh... there's half the problem there as well... the tape will be
creating a gap between the speaker frame and the mounting points, which
only serves to exacerbate the "leakage" problem. If you have to use
something to physically isolate the speaker from the deck, use a "solid"
foam, and use it all the way around. I've used "RV foam" before, a
stick-on strip that seals up nicely (aka "weatherstripping tape"), when
such a tactic is required. See an example here: http :// tinyurl,com /4mddxs
Building a solid wood deck and just attaching the speakers directly to
that will be more effective, though.
> I notice that Kenwood recommends using an angled adaptor with these
> speakers, in a rear parcel shelf application:
>
> http :// india.kenwood,com /products/car/speakers/kfc-m1628a/features.html
That's just to "aim" the mids and highs. Won't help this issue at all.
Arny Krueger wrote:
>> They are screwed down tight to the steel parcel shelf
>> using a small amount of 1.6mm double sided tape at
>> each fixing point, or which there are four for each
>> speaker.
>
> You mean screw + tape, right?
Ugh... there's half the problem there as well... the tape will be
creating a gap between the speaker frame and the mounting points, which
only serves to exacerbate the "leakage" problem. If you have to use
something to physically isolate the speaker from the deck, use a "solid"
foam, and use it all the way around. I've used "RV foam" before, a
stick-on strip that seals up nicely (aka "weatherstripping tape"), when
such a tactic is required. See an example here: http :// tinyurl,com /4mddxs
Building a solid wood deck and just attaching the speakers directly to
that will be more effective, though.
> I notice that Kenwood recommends using an angled adaptor with these
> speakers, in a rear parcel shelf application:
>
> http :// india.kenwood,com /products/car/speakers/kfc-m1628a/features.html
That's just to "aim" the mids and highs. Won't help this issue at all.
