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Marantz PM-94 question
Marantz PM-94 question
I just got a Marantz PM-94. I have a question about the speaker
connections. The binding posts are unusual, sort of like an enclosed
version of the first generation Adcom GFA-555 posts. There's a plastic
collar around the screw post, which from what I can see has a hole
drilled through it. You back out the nut (which doesn't back out far
enough to clear the plastic collar), insert the speaker wire through a
channel in the collar and the hole in the post, then tighten the nut.
The hole looks to be big enough for 12 gauge wire (not at home, haven't
tried yet) but there's no way to attach a spade lug or a banana plug.
The top cover of the amp is attached with tamper proof screws and I don't
have the right tool to open it, so I can't tell how the binding posts are
affixed to the amp.
I'm not opposed to connecting the bare wire ends, it's just that all the
speaker cable I have is terminated with spade lugs. I'd have to cut all
the lugs off, strip the insulation back, maybe tin the wires, you get the
idea.
Any thoughts on whether I should even consider replacing the existing
binding posts with "standard" posts, or just bite the bullet and cut the
lugs off the cable? Anyone know how they're connected inside?
Anyone have any experience with the amp? Would be curious about your
impressions... I know it runs hot due to the way it's biased, so I got a
couple of noiseless computer fans from S-Flex which I intend to place
over the heatsinks.
I just got a Marantz PM-94. I have a question about the speaker
connections. The binding posts are unusual, sort of like an enclosed
version of the first generation Adcom GFA-555 posts. There's a plastic
collar around the screw post, which from what I can see has a hole
drilled through it. You back out the nut (which doesn't back out far
enough to clear the plastic collar), insert the speaker wire through a
channel in the collar and the hole in the post, then tighten the nut.
The hole looks to be big enough for 12 gauge wire (not at home, haven't
tried yet) but there's no way to attach a spade lug or a banana plug.
The top cover of the amp is attached with tamper proof screws and I don't
have the right tool to open it, so I can't tell how the binding posts are
affixed to the amp.
I'm not opposed to connecting the bare wire ends, it's just that all the
speaker cable I have is terminated with spade lugs. I'd have to cut all
the lugs off, strip the insulation back, maybe tin the wires, you get the
idea.
Any thoughts on whether I should even consider replacing the existing
binding posts with "standard" posts, or just bite the bullet and cut the
lugs off the cable? Anyone know how they're connected inside?
Anyone have any experience with the amp? Would be curious about your
impressions... I know it runs hot due to the way it's biased, so I got a
couple of noiseless computer fans from S-Flex which I intend to place
over the heatsinks.
Re: Marantz PM-94 question
On Mar 17, 7:13 pm, Ray Garrison <r...@freshnex . com > wrote:
> I just got a Marantz PM-94. I have a question about the speaker
> connections. The binding posts are unusual, sort of like an enclosed
> version of the first generation Adcom GFA-555 posts. There's a plastic
> collar around the screw post, which from what I can see has a hole
> drilled through it. You back out the nut (which doesn't back out far
> enough to clear the plastic collar), insert the speaker wire through a
> channel in the collar and the hole in the post, then tighten the nut.
>
> The hole looks to be big enough for 12 gauge wire (not at home, haven't
> tried yet) but there's no way to attach a spade lug or a banana plug.
> The top cover of the amp is attached with tamper proof screws and I don't
> have the right tool to open it, so I can't tell how the binding posts are
> affixed to the amp.
>
> I'm not opposed to connecting the bare wire ends, it's just that all the
> speaker cable I have is terminated with spade lugs. I'd have to cut all
> the lugs off, strip the insulation back, maybe tin the wires, you get the
> idea.
>
> Any thoughts on whether I should even consider replacing the existing
> binding posts with "standard" posts, or just bite the bullet and cut the
> lugs off the cable? Anyone know how they're connected inside?
>
> Anyone have any experience with the amp? Would be curious about your
> impressions... I know it runs hot due to the way it's biased, so I got a
> couple of noiseless computer fans from S-Flex which I intend to place
> over the heatsinks.
I would refrain from making modifications to the unit. It will reduce
it's value considerably on the secondary market. Cut the ends off
your speaker wires.
It was one of the early mosfet amps and also supposedly runs as a
class a up to 25% of the output power. That would explain the heat.
I doubt you need the fans if you provide suitable natural
ventalation. Don't pile stuff on top of it and if you put it inside
an enclosed cabinet you might consider putting your computer fans in
the back of the cabinet.
On Mar 17, 7:13 pm, Ray Garrison <r...@freshnex . com > wrote:
> I just got a Marantz PM-94. I have a question about the speaker
> connections. The binding posts are unusual, sort of like an enclosed
> version of the first generation Adcom GFA-555 posts. There's a plastic
> collar around the screw post, which from what I can see has a hole
> drilled through it. You back out the nut (which doesn't back out far
> enough to clear the plastic collar), insert the speaker wire through a
> channel in the collar and the hole in the post, then tighten the nut.
>
> The hole looks to be big enough for 12 gauge wire (not at home, haven't
> tried yet) but there's no way to attach a spade lug or a banana plug.
> The top cover of the amp is attached with tamper proof screws and I don't
> have the right tool to open it, so I can't tell how the binding posts are
> affixed to the amp.
>
> I'm not opposed to connecting the bare wire ends, it's just that all the
> speaker cable I have is terminated with spade lugs. I'd have to cut all
> the lugs off, strip the insulation back, maybe tin the wires, you get the
> idea.
>
> Any thoughts on whether I should even consider replacing the existing
> binding posts with "standard" posts, or just bite the bullet and cut the
> lugs off the cable? Anyone know how they're connected inside?
>
> Anyone have any experience with the amp? Would be curious about your
> impressions... I know it runs hot due to the way it's biased, so I got a
> couple of noiseless computer fans from S-Flex which I intend to place
> over the heatsinks.
I would refrain from making modifications to the unit. It will reduce
it's value considerably on the secondary market. Cut the ends off
your speaker wires.
It was one of the early mosfet amps and also supposedly runs as a
class a up to 25% of the output power. That would explain the heat.
I doubt you need the fans if you provide suitable natural
ventalation. Don't pile stuff on top of it and if you put it inside
an enclosed cabinet you might consider putting your computer fans in
the back of the cabinet.
Re: Marantz PM-94 question
"Ray Garrison" <ray@freshnex . com > wrote in message
news:frmtuq02q6d@news2.newsguy . com ...
(snip) I'd have to cut all
> the lugs off, strip the insulation back, maybe tin the wires, you get the
> idea.
> (Snip)
>
Can't help with the specifics of the amp, however don't tin the wires if you
elect to use the existing binding posts. The connection will be degraded
over time because soldering causes the wire to lose its springiness and this
is required to maintain a low resistance mechanical connection over time.
Soldered wires will "flow" eventually resulting in a loose connection.
Cheers
Dave
"Ray Garrison" <ray@freshnex . com > wrote in message
news:frmtuq02q6d@news2.newsguy . com ...
(snip) I'd have to cut all
> the lugs off, strip the insulation back, maybe tin the wires, you get the
> idea.
> (Snip)
>
Can't help with the specifics of the amp, however don't tin the wires if you
elect to use the existing binding posts. The connection will be degraded
over time because soldering causes the wire to lose its springiness and this
is required to maintain a low resistance mechanical connection over time.
Soldered wires will "flow" eventually resulting in a loose connection.
Cheers
Dave
