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Home Studio Sound treatment/Sound Proofing Question

Reply from: GarageGuitar
Date: 29 Feb 2008, 04:39
Home Studio Sound treatment/Sound Proofing Question

HI everyone.

My home studio is almost idiotically small (approx 7ft x 8ft x 7.5ft
LxWxH), but provides a dedicated space for a desk (with eqpt rack,
nearfield monitors, computer monitor, etc), a couple of mic stands
and a stool to sit on while I play mainly acoustic guitar and record
vocals.

Currently the "sound treatment" consists of wall to wall carpet (no
underpad) and ten 12"x 48" panels of 3/4" styrofoam onto which I've
glued panels of roughly 1-1/2" thick convoluted foam mattress pad (hi-
tech, eh?). Eight of these panels are hung vertically on the walls,
centered vertically, and laid out about 4 inches apart on the two
walls at the mic stand end of the room. There are 2 more panels hung
horizontally behind the desk at the opposite end of the space behind
the nearfields. I also hang a blanket across the doorway while
recording to cut down on reflections off the smooth door surface,.

All of this helps immensely, but the room still suffers from flutter
echo/tin can reverb, which is mucking up my vocal takes, especially
when I get loud. My question is how best to deal with the situation in
a cost-effective manner. How mich of the drywall should I be trying to
cover with absorptive materials? What about bass traps? Should I treat
the ceiling?

On one hand, I feel like I should treat the entire space as a vocal
booth (it's not much bigger!) and glue foam on every inch of surface
area. On the other hand, I dont want a totally dead room.

I'd appreciate your thoughts, suggestions for treatment mateials, war
stories or any other advice you care to offer.

Thanks in advance!

Reply from: Chris Hornbeck
Date: 29 Feb 2008, 05:30
Re: Home Studio Sound treatment/Sound Proofing Question

On Thu, 28 Feb 2008 19:39:13 -0800 (PST), GarageGuitar
<charleslemon@sympatico.ca> wrote:

>HI everyone.
>
>My home studio is almost idiotically small (approx 7ft x 8ft x 7.5ft
>LxWxH), but provides a dedicated space for a desk (with eqpt rack,
>nearfield monitors, computer monitor, etc), a couple of mic stands
>and a stool to sit on while I play mainly acoustic guitar and record
>vocals.

>I'd appreciate your thoughts, suggestions for treatment materials, war
>stories or any other advice you care to offer.

It's either a very quiet evening at home or everyone's still
replaying "Survivor" for subtle details. Spoiler alert: no
pretty girls were voted out.

But seriously, how long can you make a pair of microphone cables?
What else do you have available, room-wise? The current lack of
responses is at least partly because the you're asking the old joke
question "Doctor, when I hit my head with this hammer it hurts".

Of course you know that, and I don't want this post to come off
wrong, so maybe a better way to respond is "Is this little room
really the only alternative?"

If so, it'll take someone much smarter than me to help. Fortunately,
they abound.

All good fortune,

Chris Hornbeck
"It's 90% boilerplate, 1% real work, 9% WTF?"
-Les Cargill

Reply from: Laurence Payne
Date: 29 Feb 2008, 11:32
Re: Home Studio Sound treatment/Sound Proofing Question

On Thu, 28 Feb 2008 19:39:13 -0800 (PST), GarageGuitar
<charleslemon@sympatico.ca> wrote:

>My home studio is almost idiotically small (approx 7ft x 8ft x 7.5ft
>LxWxH),

<snip>

>On one hand, I feel like I should treat the entire space as a vocal
>booth (it's not much bigger!) and glue foam on every inch of surface
>area. On the other hand, I dont want a totally dead room.

I think that's your only option. Deaden the room, mic close and add
some artificial life to the recording. Or, as already suggested,
treat it as a control room and run cables to somewhere better. Not
very convenient if you're a one-man operation, I admit!

Reply from: GarageGuitar
Date: 29 Feb 2008, 14:04
Re: Home Studio Sound treatment/Sound Proofing Question

LP:

Don't I wish I had another (larger) space available! The irony is that
my room is adjacent to a huge open basement space whch I'd love to
carve a chunk out of, but I've been vetoed by The Spouse. :(

So I guess I'll be looking onto lots of foam..... Any ideas on how to
neatly foam a ceiling with pot lights in it? Maybe a checkerboard of
12x12 squares with lights in opne spaces......

Thanks for the input.


Reply from: Don Pearce
Date: 29 Feb 2008, 14:16
Re: Home Studio Sound treatment/Sound Proofing Question

On Fri, 29 Feb 2008 05:04:13 -0800 (PST), GarageGuitar
<charleslemon@sympatico.ca> wrote:

>LP:
>
>Don't I wish I had another (larger) space available! The irony is that
>my room is adjacent to a huge open basement space whch I'd love to
>carve a chunk out of, but I've been vetoed by The Spouse. :(
>
>So I guess I'll be looking onto lots of foam..... Any ideas on how to
>neatly foam a ceiling with pot lights in it? Maybe a checkerboard of
>12x12 squares with lights in opne spaces......
>
>Thanks for the input.

Have a look at www .soundservice.co.uk

I know they aren't local to you, but the sort of products they have
must be available there. You will end up with much better (and
spouse-acceptable) ideas than simply gluing up foam.

d

--
Pearce Consulting
http :// www .pearce.uk,com

Reply from: -- messaggio eliminato --
Date: 29 Feb 2008, 14:29
-- deleted messages --
Reply from: RobertH
Date: 20 Mar 2008, 00:34
Re: Home Studio Sound treatment/Sound Proofing Question

Good strategy for the ceiling. That's probably where the original
poster is getting all his echo from. In my old house I had a cathedral
ceiling and I always got great acoustics in that room.

Reply from: Anahata
Date: 29 Feb 2008, 14:41
Re: Home Studio Sound treatment/Sound Proofing Question

GarageGuitar wrote:

> So I guess I'll be looking onto lots of foam..... Any ideas on how to
> neatly foam a ceiling with pot lights in it? Maybe a checkerboard of
> 12x12 squares with lights in opne spaces......

To reduce the bass problems you need *depth* of absorbing material. Put
as much thickness as you can on the ceiling without hitting your head on
the bottom of it, leaving gaps where the lights are.

You should easily be able to add 8 inches thickness of absorbing
material, or possible save money by having a 4" gap and 4" of absorbent
material below that on a false ceiling framework. Dense fibre glass is
better than foam.

On the walls you've covered with foam, instead of covering the whole
wall with foam, cover half the wall with double the thickness. Try to
get bare parts of the wall facing treated parts, so there's no place
where sound can bounce back and forth between them.

It won't be perfect but you'll get less bass resonance and less
"deadness" at the same time.

Anahata

Reply from: Ken Winokur
Date: 29 Feb 2008, 15:49
Re: Home Studio Sound treatment/Sound Proofing Question

On Feb 29, 8:41 am, Anahata <anah...@treewind.co.uk> wrote:
> GarageGuitar wrote:
> > So I guess I'll be looking onto lots of foam..... Any ideas on how to
> > neatly foam a ceiling with pot lights in it? Maybe a checkerboard of
> > 12x12 squares with lights in opne spaces......
>
> To reduce the bass problems you need *depth* of absorbing material. Put
> as much thickness as you can on the ceiling without hitting your head on
> the bottom of it, leaving gaps where the lights are.
>
> You should easily be able to add 8 inches thickness of absorbing
> material, or possible save money by having a 4" gap and 4" of absorbent
> material below that on a false ceiling framework. Dense fibre glass is
> better than foam.
>
> On the walls you've covered with foam, instead of covering the whole
> wall with foam, cover half the wall with double the thickness. Try to
> get bare parts of the wall facing treated parts, so there's no place
> where sound can bounce back and forth between them.
>
> It won't be perfect but you'll get less bass resonance and less
> "deadness" at the same time.
>
> Anahata

Ethan Winer's bass traps (which I have been planning to build but have
not yet done) use somewhat thin amounts of rigid fiberglass. From
what I gather, the designs he has are quite scientific and use a small
amount of deadening material coupled with a resonant membrane (just a
piece of plywood cut to a specific size and mounted at a specific
depth) to do what we all have mostly done with huge amounts of
absorptive materials. Even the deep bass traps are only 4" deep. So
they would easily fit in your small room (on the walls or ceiling).

There are three slightly different designs that alternately trap deep
bass, high bass and mid/high sounds. Using some of each you get a
nicely balanced sound.

Ethan you out there? Why do your thin panels work?

Here's the website for his designs:

http :// www .ethanwiner,com /basstrap.html

Reply from: RC_Moonpie
Date: 29 Feb 2008, 16:39
Re: Home Studio Sound treatment/Sound Proofing Question

On Fri, 29 Feb 2008 06:49:47 -0800 (PST), Ken Winokur
<alloyo@verizon,net > wrote:


>
>Here's the website for his designs:
>
> http :// www .ethanwiner,com /basstrap.html


great site, thanks

now i see why mine didnt work ;-)



Reply from: Arny Krueger
Date: 29 Feb 2008, 14:33
Re: Home Studio Sound treatment/Sound Proofing Question

"GarageGuitar" <charleslemon@sympatico.ca> wrote in message
news:576ef24a-f5f1-46a9-839d-5a92fe3b82f0@e6g2000prf.googlegroups,com
> HI everyone.
>
> My home studio is almost idiotically small (approx 7ft x
> 8ft x 7.5ft LxWxH), but provides a dedicated space for a
> desk (with eqpt rack, nearfield monitors, computer
> monitor, etc), a couple of mic stands and a stool to sit
> on while I play mainly acoustic guitar and record vocals.
>
> Currently the "sound treatment" consists of wall to wall
> carpet (no underpad)

Padded carpet usually sounds a little bit better.

> and ten 12"x 48" panels of 3/4"
> styrofoam onto which I've glued panels of roughly 1-1/2"
> thick convoluted foam mattress pad (hi- tech, eh?).

You ought to find your nearest professional insulation contractor and pick
up a 6-pack of Dow Corning 703 or its equivalent. It comes as 2' x 4' x 2"
blankets. Cut each one in half lengthwise and add it to the sandwich, above.

However, you might want to get a 12 pack, and disperse the other 7 pieces on
walls around your little room.

Use it in separated areas, don't butt the pieces together.



Reply from: Ethan Winer
Date: 29 Feb 2008, 16:01
Re: Home Studio Sound treatment/Sound Proofing Question

> Currently the "sound treatment" consists of wall to wall carpet

Have a look at my Acoustics FAQ for the right way to do this:

http :// www .ethanwiner,com /acoustics.html

A cube shaped room needs much more than foam.

--Ethan


Reply from: Powell
Date: 29 Feb 2008, 19:24
Re: Home Studio Sound treatment/Sound Proofing Question


"Ethan Winer" <ethanw at ethanwiner dot com> wrote

> Have a look at my Acoustics FAQ for the right way to do this:
>
> http :// www .ethanwiner,com /acoustics.html
>
Are you aware of any books or links which describe the
specific methodology used to measure actual room
resonances for the Dolby studio facility certification?





Reply from: Scott Dorsey
Date: 29 Feb 2008, 19:35
Re: Home Studio Sound treatment/Sound Proofing Question

In article <y6Yxj.24$AL1.7@newsfe06.lga>, Powell <nospam@noquacking,com > wrote:
>"Ethan Winer" <ethanw at ethanwiner dot com> wrote
>
>> Have a look at my Acoustics FAQ for the right way to do this:
>>
>> http :// www .ethanwiner,com /acoustics.html
>>
>Are you aware of any books or links which describe the
>specific methodology used to measure actual room
>resonances for the Dolby studio facility certification?

The information is public. You could contact the Production
Services Group in Wootton Bassett and you should be able to get a
manual and a fancy calculator for figuring room modes.

Almost certainly they have isolation and noise floor standards and
some basic rough room mode numbers. Remember, of course, that these
are intended for soundstages and mixing theatres, and the required
acoustics are very, very different than for music recording or for
performance halls. So I would _bet_ that they would have a fairly narrow
range of allowable RT60s for a soundstage, for instance, and I'd bet
those numbers are way too short for a music studio.

Not available in the US, of course.
--scott
--
"C'est un Nagra. C'est suisse, et tres, tres precis."

Reply from: Powell
Date: 29 Feb 2008, 19:45
Re: Home Studio Sound treatment/Sound Proofing Question


"Scott Dorsey" <kludge@panix,com > wrote

>>> Have a look at my Acoustics FAQ for the right way to do this:
>>>
>>> http :// www .ethanwiner,com /acoustics.html
>>>
>>Are you aware of any books or links which describe the
>>specific methodology used to measure actual room
>>resonances for the Dolby studio facility certification?
>
> The information is public. You could contact the Production
> Services Group in Wootton Bassett and you should be able to get a
> manual and a fancy calculator for figuring room modes.
>
> Almost certainly they have isolation and noise floor standards and
> some basic rough room mode numbers. Remember, of course, that these
> are intended for soundstages and mixing theatres, and the required
> acoustics are very, very different than for music recording or for
> performance halls. So I would _bet_ that they would have a fairly narrow
> range of allowable RT60s for a soundstage, for instance, and I'd bet
> those numbers are way too short for a music studio.
>
> Not available in the US, of course.
>
I think your information is incorrect. A facility does not submit
theoretical paperwork to get certified. It is based on actual
measurements by company (Dolby) representatives.
*THX Professional Facility certification,* for example.




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Thread:
    Don Pearce
     RobertH
    Anahata
     Ken Winokur
      RC_Moonpie
   Powell
    Scott Dorsey
     Powell
      Scott Dorsey
       Powell
        Scott Dorsey
      Richard Crowley
       Powell
        Richard Crowley