Re: 300B push pull amplifier
Andre Jute wrote:
>
> On Apr 6, 5:14 pm, Tube747 <Tube...@lycos . com > wrote:
> > Dear Patrick Turner,
> > Therefore, what is the PO from 4 pairs of 300B in push pull pure class
> > A configuration while the primary impedance of the output transformer
> > is 1.5K ohm?
> >
> > Thanks!
>
> First of all, Tube747, I have a lot of experience with 300B at all
> kinds of operating conditions, and in particular my favourite output
> transformers have a primary impedance of 5K6 which is very close to
> the effective 6K you're talking about per pair. Secondly, it is not
> bright to keep stacking 300B; you soon lose what it is that actually
> makes them 300B, which is clarity and delicacy; it would be smarter to
> go to 845 which have an even nicer tone and are much more powerful.
It depends a bit how much power is needed.
If you only need 5 watts most days and occasionally 10 watts max,
then a pair of 300B would be be fine, and the expense of using 8 x 300B
would not yield a vast improvement imho.
One NEEDS to know how much power one uses,
A peak and hold DVM can be left connected to a speaker running from an
amp
and after a few CDs the peak max voltage is recorded.
If the speaker Z is known power required = peak voltage squared / ( 2 x
speaker ohms ).
Nevertheless, Late last year I heard a VAC amp with a quad of 300B in PP
per channel.
There was no difference in the sound whether the 9dB of global NFB was
connected or not.
And frankly, the thing worked excellently for a class AB1 triode amp.
The guy was using VAF speakers, model I-66, rated at about 90dB/W/M,
and used maybe 2 watts average sometimes, but mainly less most days.
He'd never lisen to anything that wasn't being handled by the
class A region of the AB amp, good for over 55 watts AB.
This amp also blew a lotta smoke a couple of months back, and I have to
repair it.
I'll get the experience to improve it.
The 6k load per pair of 300B isn't all that bad a load, but it means
each tube sees
3k when in class A. To get a maximal amount of class A with the 6k load
the Ea must be lower and Ia higher than if you had a 10k load.
The lower the Ea, the lower tha amount of voltage swing at the anode
because of the
limitation of grid current; see the anode curve where Eg = 0V on the
tube data sheet,
and where a 3k load line cuts this curve.
The higher the load, and higher the Ea, the more swing is possible, so
efficiency
rises with Ea rise.
But the maximum Ea should NOT be much more than 430V.
Ia must be lower as Ea is increased, and if the tubes are run for pure
class A only,
then you can base the idle dissipation at 32 watts and NO MORE unless
you have special versions of 300B
such as those made by KRAudio in Prague. These special 300B are quite
happy with 40 watts at idle,
ie, 400V x 100mA.
> Thirdly, despite Patrick's attempts to help you, you really haven't
> given us enough information. For instance, is your 405V at the plate
> or on the plate --
"At" the plate, or "on" the plate would be confusing for many.
I prefer to say Ea for the tube's working voltage.
This means the Vdc at idle between anode and cathode regardless of
biasing method
or what the grid bias voltage is.
Ek is the cathode voltage where cathode bias with RC network is used.
B+ is the power supply voltage at the OPT, or wherever else on a voltage
rail
supplying any stage.
> i.e. does it include the drop over the cathode
> resistor for autobias, or is it all operating voltage with fixed bias
> being supplied from somewhere else? Fourthly, the 55mA you mention in
> another post is ludicrously low for a modern application. I know, I
> know, the GE tables and the WE tables all give operating points even
> lower. But 55mA is an invitation to distortion every time you turn the
> wick up. You'd do better to remember that a 300B is only a 450V tube,
> and to look at 65mA operating at a more reasonable operating voltage.
I agree, if you want huge PO levels then the more class A the better.
But where Ea = 400V, Ia of 55mA is OK for where PO wanted is low.
The difference to the sound when going from say 33mA to 80mA
is utterly negligible for most ppl because they only need few watts,
and the first few watts is class A even if Ia is only 33mA.
A pure class A1 triode amp using 300B, KT88, 6550, KT90, EL34 KT66 et
all
can be configured to make 1% THD at clipping with zero loop NFB.
This is with the highest safe bias, so 400V and 80mA would give 32 watts
absolute max.
Ratings are for 42W max, but its too risky, and 300B are expensive.
28 watts is often used, so 70mA is OK.
55mA or less will still give you a lot of class A where the first 5
watts
is little different in THD/IMD measurment or sound quality compared to
the higher Ia of say 70mA.
Suppose you have a load to give pure class A for say 400V x 70mA.
Then you re-bias to to 400V x 35mA.
The PO at clipping will slightly increase, and instead of 1% THD,
you may get 3%, because the PO has become class AB, not all pure class
A.
If the load RLa-a is raised say to twice the value then the amp reverts
back to being pure
class A with 1% THD at clipping but you get less total power.
The load can be tailored to the Ea and Ia and vice versa, hence it pays
to learn all about
load line analysis, because it may be needed to get the best using a
given PSU and available OPT
and speakers.
Tube amp building is about arrangeing tubes, PSU, OPT and speakers to
get the best sound and
enough of it.
But there will be little difference to sound for the first few watts of
"sweetzone"
as long as the amp has enough pure class A to cover the power needed
and tubes do not move into cut off.
> About 380/385/390 volts at the plate and 60-65-70V negative bias and
> 60-65-70mA current with autobias (a very attractive option with 300B
> because fixed bias bloats the bass -- YMMV, you may want bloated bass)
> will give you both a cleaner sound and tubes that will last better.
I cannot see why bass is bloated with fixed bias.
If anything, the reverse might be true; bass could become less
well controlled with low Ra because the Ck across the Rk goes to high Z
at LF.
What is bloat anyway? LF intermodulation?
The answer to good performance with cathode bias is to use a large C
value across Rk,
and not the values used 60 years ago. Use 470uF instead of 47uF.
Fixed bias is fine, but you need to fiddle with adjustments
and there isn't any self regulation.
For pure class A the cathode bias is the best because the tube is set to
work hard even at idle
and you don't want to tempt fate and have a tube thermally run away
because of
bias failure. Shite does happen.
A spontaneous increase in Ia causes the Rk to develop more Ek,
so grid is effectively more negative, so Ia increase is opposed.
In class AB the tubes never have the same high Ia levels so fixed bias
is less risky.
> Fifth: In Class A1 that will give you a minimum of 30W of the cleanest
> power you ever heard.
How many 300B tubes would be used for this? a quad?
30W from 8 x 300B means only 7.5W per pair....
> If you want or need more power, go to a steeper
> loadline i.e. a *lower* impedance, even down to 1K actual or 4K
> effective.
With a fixed Ea & Ia reducing octet 300B RLa-a from say 1k5 to 1k
would reduce class A and threshold of class A to AB, so you'd get more
AB.
> Sixth: There is in my mind very little point in running
> 300B in any configuration outside Class A1; that's the sound that you
> pay for; running 300B in A/B is a waste, because you can get the same
> sound with KT88 or something.
KT90 is probably the best "something."
I am never sure what makes the best triode. Is is a real one, like a
300B or 2A3, 45 etc,
or a multigrid?
The tests I have done with 6550 show they make just as good a triode as
a 300B.
> The same in fact applies to 845; running
> in class A1, 845 always sound better than 211 which reach for the same
> power by driving the signal across the 0V bias line into the positive
> area.
That perception would seem driven my the technicals.
845 have 1/2 the Ra of the 211, so 845 have twice the damping factor.
Ie, Rout of the amp is lower with 845.
The use of Class A2 for 211 poses the problem of driving the tube
without the added distortions of the driver. The driver circuit becomes
more complex
and hence after the threshold for A1 to A1 is passed, the 211 amp
can't give the low THD offered by the 845 amp.
I would have to say that for most ppl this is a negligible concern,
because
a PP amp using either 845 or 211 can be respectively a 60W A1 amp ot A2
amp.
There will be plenty of PO to cover 99% of music before A2 op begins in
the 211.
I'm using 2 x 845 in parallel SET, and get 60W with some slight A2
even though its id RC coupled.
I'm also using KR Audio 845, with oxide cathodes, which don't permit
Ea over 1,100Vdc.
So PP op does not allow a huge AB PO amount.
The Chinese 845 with tungsten cathodes would take maybe 1.5kV at the OPT
CT
and thus the tube does not have so much A2 operation.
Hi-fi is NOT an eternal chase for watts though, we need enough PO and no
more.
> Finally, still on the subject of the fewer 300B the better, and the
> simpler the better, the best amp I ever built, and one which sounds
> better in blind tests to classical musicians playing their own disks,
> is PP EL34 Class A. I respect your ambition but I fear the outcome of
> 4x pairs of 300B will fall short of 4x the pleasure of one pair
> properly implemented -- with the rest of the money spent on sensitive
> speakers better suited to what is best about 300B.
Unless someone is running ATC floor stander speakers rated at 80dB/W/M,
I doubt there is any need to have 8 x 300B per channel.
It does look very nice, it WILL atract a monumental carbon tax when they
make us pay in future.
Distortion at a watt will be slightly lower with 8 tubes instead of 2.
>
> One final note. I am always vastly irritated when I hear manufacturers
> talk about 10W from 300B. It is bullshit. Even Patrick's casual talk
> of 8W per single 300B is still an overstatement.
Most 300B set up for 32 watts of Pd at idle can easily make 8W
at some RL. Some make 10W at 3%. Depends how serious you consider THD.
> 7.6W is the best I
> ever got out of a single 300B not on shortterm test (I've run WE 300B
> briefly at 450V with no ill effects but I wouldn't advise you try that
> with Chinese tubes -- nor 405V, for that matter).
With Ea at 450V, the trouble is that the grid bias has to be very
negative to hold the
Ia down, and the tube is near the region where the grid is running out
of control.
> In the scheme I've
> laid out for you above, at the low end the tubes won't even be
> averaging 4W each or 8W per pair -- they will last forever; I have a
> pair of 300B that lasted 14K hours. And of course the sound will be
> totally linear, with a hugely advantageous distribution of harmonic
> distortion.
A customer of mine has EL34 in PP triode and with Ea = 270V and
maybe it makes 10W max. He's had the same tubes since 1962.
>
> So, in summary, if you really need that much power, 300B are not the
> right tube, and if you decided you want to marry 300B, the answer is
> to use them right and get more sensitive speakers instead of stacking
> up 300B so far that you will lose all their special benefits.
It depends what speakers the man already may have and wish to keep.
But its hard work building for a total of 16 output tubes.
I've tried using 12 x 6550 per channel for UL which sounded pretty well
at a watt.
I've yet to complete the change to CFB for these which I think is better
than triode or UL to my ears.
But its very difficult to make a terrible sounding triode amp
providing its not overdriven.
Patrick Turner.
>
> Sorry to be a drag on a bright dream.
>
> Andre Jute
> Visit Jute on Amps at * members.lycos.co.uk/fiultra/
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