New Rider - New Bike: Engine Break-in questions.

New Rider - New Bike: Engine Break-in questions.

Good morning,

I'm a cycle noob. I've been riding for about a year and this season I
plan to upgrade from my Honda Rebel Buzzbomber to a brand-spanking-new
07 Kawasaki Vulcan 900 Custom. Before I go out and purchase the new
bike, I decided to research the break-in period for new engines. The
advice seems to run the gamut from the easy break-in (with no lugging)
to the hard/fast break-in.

I ran across a webpage; that on the face seems authoritative, but I
thought I'd seek some folks with more experience before I disregard my
manufacturers recommended procedure. The page that got me scratching
my noodle was: * w w w .mototuneusa . com /break in secrets.htm

I'd appreciate your thoughts, especially if you have experience
building, rebuilding, or repairing late model metric cruisers.

Thanks,

Jonathan

Re: New Rider - New Bike: Engine Break-in questions.


<salty_sohal@yahoo . com > wrote in message
news:1175574541.548283.233090@y80g2000hsf.googlegroups . com ...
> Good morning,
>
> I'm a cycle noob. I've been riding for about a year and this season I
> plan to upgrade from my Honda Rebel Buzzbomber to a brand-spanking-new
> 07 Kawasaki Vulcan 900 Custom. Before I go out and purchase the new
> bike, I decided to research the break-in period for new engines. The
> advice seems to run the gamut from the easy break-in (with no lugging)
> to the hard/fast break-in.
>
> I ran across a webpage; that on the face seems authoritative, but I
> thought I'd seek some folks with more experience before I disregard my
> manufacturers recommended procedure. The page that got me scratching
> my noodle was: * w w w .mototuneusa . com /break_in_secrets.htm
>
> I'd appreciate your thoughts, especially if you have experience
> building, rebuilding, or repairing late model metric cruisers.
>
> Thanks,
>
> Jonathan
>

The bike's owner's manual will describe the break in period. The
manufacturer knows more about their engines than anybody.

Bob

Re: New Rider - New Bike: Engine Break-in questions.


"Bob" <nimby_NEEDSPAM@roadrunner . com > wrote

> The bike's owner's manual will describe the break in period. The
> manufacturer knows more about their engines than anybody.

True. It's also true that they will give you pretty conservative advise in
order to protect their reputations and minimize the amount of future
warrantee work they might have to perform.

But if you understand that the very same conservative advise also protects
*you*, the customer, as well as your bike; the most intelligent course of
action should become obvious rather quickly.

Re: New Rider - New Bike: Engine Break-in questions.

"P.Roehling" <Pete.Roehling@CUTOUTeee.org> writes:

> "Bob" <nimby_NEEDSPAM@roadrunner . com > wrote
>
>> The bike's owner's manual will describe the break in period. The
>> manufacturer knows more about their engines than anybody.
>
> True. It's also true that they will give you pretty conservative advise in
> order to protect their reputations and minimize the amount of future
> warrantee work they might have to perform.
>
> But if you understand that the very same conservative advise also protects
> *you*, the customer, as well as your bike; the most intelligent course of
> action should become obvious rather quickly.

Even if warrantee work is free, it is still time out of your life. I
would lean very heavily towards following the manufacturer's advice.

--
This post uses 100% post consumer electrons and 100% virgin photons.

An ideal world is left as an excercise to the reader.
--- Paul Graham, On Lisp 8.1

At 2.6 miles per minute, you don't really have time to get bored.
--- Pete Roehling on rec.motorcycles

I bump into a lot of veteran riders in my travels.
--- David Hough: Proficient Motorcycling

Re: New Rider - New Bike: Engine Break-in questions.

<salty_sohal@yahoo . com > wrote in message
news:1175574541.548283.233090@y80g2000hsf.googlegroups . com ...
> Good morning,
>
> I'm a cycle noob. I've been riding for about a year and this season I
> plan to upgrade from my Honda Rebel Buzzbomber to a brand-spanking-new
> 07 Kawasaki Vulcan 900 Custom. Before I go out and purchase the new
> bike, I decided to research the break-in period for new engines. The
> advice seems to run the gamut from the easy break-in (with no lugging)
> to the hard/fast break-in.
>
> I ran across a webpage; that on the face seems authoritative, but I
> thought I'd seek some folks with more experience before I disregard my
> manufacturers recommended procedure. The page that got me scratching
> my noodle was: * w w w .mototuneusa . com /break_in_secrets.htm
>
> I'd appreciate your thoughts, especially if you have experience
> building, rebuilding, or repairing late model metric cruisers.
>
> Thanks,
>
> Jonathan

Jonathan,

One answer... w w w .vroc.org

Visit and ask the same question in their newsgroup. There are dozens of 900
riders there who can tell you their exepreiences with that exact bike.

Joe in Northern, NJ - V#8013-R

Currently Riding The "Mother Ship"
* yunx . com /valk.htm

Ride a motorcycle in or near NJ?
* tinyurl . com /5apkg

Re: New Rider - New Bike: Engine Break-in questions.

On Apr 2, 11:29 pm, salty so...@yahoo . com wrote:
> Good morning,
>
> I'm a cycle noob. I've been riding for about a year and this season I
> plan to upgrade from my Honda Rebel Buzzbomber to a brand-spanking-new
> 07 Kawasaki Vulcan 900 Custom. Before I go out and purchase the new
> bike, I decided to research the break-in period for new engines. The
> advice seems to run the gamut from the easy break-in (with no lugging)
> to the hard/fast break-in.
>

>
> Thanks,
>
> Jonathan

Jonathan,
I bought a new 900 Vulcan last May. If I remember the first 500 miles
the factory suggested keeping it below 55 mph.
I purchased the extended warranty and free oil change package from the
dealer ( I am a capable mechanic but since I have severe arthritis
doing my own work isn't worth the pain). I rode the bike the way the
factory suggested that first 500 miles and as soon as I got that 500
miles on it I took it in for the first FREE 500 mile oil change and
checkup. I had the mechanic gather a sample of the used oil for me and
I take it to a good friend of mine who has access to all the lab
equipment to do a thorough oil analysis. Some dealers may have this
service and in my opinion it is money well spent to do this at 500
miles and at least every ten thousand miles after that.

After the 500 mile checkup I took the bike out on the Interstate and
put a hundred miles on it varying the speed from 55 to 90 mph in high
gear. My theory in doing this is that this seats in the rings and
valve seats better than riding at steady speeds. I keep the bike in my
garage when I am not riding and I always make it a practice of topping
off the fuel tank before I park it in cold weather. During this past
winter I was able to ride several times a week except for a two week
period when it was too icy. I now have just over 6,000 miles on it and
so far everything has been great. I am a pretty big guy and since I
don't like windshields my gas mileage isn't always the greatest
compared to that of smaller riders but so far my Vulcan does pretty
good on gas. My worst tankful was 27 mpg on a hot windy day when I was
pushing 90 mph on an Interstate run. A couple times, when I was on
leisurely rides on country roads where I didn't exceed 55-mph, I
managed close to 60 mpg. Overall mileage when riding around town
(Lincoln, NE) is about 40 to 55 mpg. YMMV. I am satisfied with that
mileage but for a smaller rider that may not be satisfactory.

Overall I like my Vulcan. One thing you might want to do is check out
the various options on handlebars. I got the big wide buckhorn type
and I love them. I understand they offer a drag type bar now. My
buckhorns are great but they sure are wide. Probably close to 36
inches and after riding a Honda Shadow that had narrow drag bars for
years the big wide bars took some getting used to. Last year the
dealers wouldn't negotiate since they had people waiting in line for
the NEW models. I see the MSRP is advertised at $7295.00 now and it
was $8295.00 last year IIRC. Even at the higher price I think I got a
good buy.

Dennis

Re: New Rider - New Bike: Engine Break-in questions.

Inline...

TwoGuns wrote:
> On Apr 2, 11:29 pm, salty so...@yahoo . com wrote:
>> Good morning,
>>
>> I'm a cycle noob. I've been riding for about a year and this season I
>> plan to upgrade from my Honda Rebel Buzzbomber to a brand-spanking-new
>> 07 Kawasaki Vulcan 900 Custom. Before I go out and purchase the new
>> bike, I decided to research the break-in period for new engines. The
>> advice seems to run the gamut from the easy break-in (with no lugging)
>> to the hard/fast break-in.

I just followed the advice in the manual for my 06 Vulcan 900 Classic.
Its been working great for me.

> Jonathan,
> I bought a new 900 Vulcan last May. If I remember the first 500 miles
> the factory suggested keeping it below 55 mph.
> I purchased the extended warranty and free oil change package from the
> dealer ( I am a capable mechanic but since I have severe arthritis
> doing my own work isn't worth the pain). I rode the bike the way the
> factory suggested that first 500 miles and as soon as I got that 500
> miles on it I took it in for the first FREE 500 mile oil change and
> checkup.

They tell you to do this at 600 miles anyway, so a little bit early
won't hurt.

> I had the mechanic gather a sample of the used oil for me and
> I take it to a good friend of mine who has access to all the lab
> equipment to do a thorough oil analysis. Some dealers may have this
> service and in my opinion it is money well spent to do this at 500
> miles and at least every ten thousand miles after that.

Out of curiosity, what was the result?

> After the 500 mile checkup I took the bike out on the Interstate and
> put a hundred miles on it varying the speed from 55 to 90 mph in high
> gear. My theory in doing this is that this seats in the rings and
> valve seats better than riding at steady speeds.

They should be fairly seated after 500 miles...

> I keep the bike in my
> garage when I am not riding and I always make it a practice of topping
> off the fuel tank before I park it in cold weather. During this past
> winter I was able to ride several times a week except for a two week
> period when it was too icy. I now have just over 6,000 miles on it and
> so far everything has been great. I am a pretty big guy and since I
> don't like windshields my gas mileage isn't always the greatest
> compared to that of smaller riders but so far my Vulcan does pretty
> good on gas. My worst tankful was 27 mpg on a hot windy day when I was
> pushing 90 mph on an Interstate run. A couple times, when I was on
> leisurely rides on country roads where I didn't exceed 55-mph, I
> managed close to 60 mpg. Overall mileage when riding around town
> (Lincoln, NE) is about 40 to 55 mpg. YMMV. I am satisfied with that
> mileage but for a smaller rider that may not be satisfactory.

I'm averaging around 44-48. Mostly in-town commute not exceeding 45MPH,
but a lot of stops. About 20-25 minutes to go 6 miles.

> Overall I like my Vulcan. One thing you might want to do is check out
> the various options on handlebars. I got the big wide buckhorn type
> and I love them. I understand they offer a drag type bar now.

Yes, the OP's 900 Custom has the drag bars. I've seriously thought about
getting some for my classic. I love the look.

> My
> buckhorns are great but they sure are wide. Probably close to 36
> inches and after riding a Honda Shadow that had narrow drag bars for
> years the big wide bars took some getting used to. Last year the
> dealers wouldn't negotiate since they had people waiting in line for
> the NEW models. I see the MSRP is advertised at $7295.00 now and it
> was $8295.00 last year IIRC. Even at the higher price I think I got a
> good buy.

Where are you seeing these prices? Kawasaki's site shows MSRP of $7349
for both custom and classic, and $8549 for the Classic LT for the 2007
models. For 2006 the Classic was $7299 MSRP (which is what I got mine for).

Re: New Rider - New Bike: Engine Break-in questions.

Brandon Buckner wrote:
> Inline...
>
> TwoGuns wrote:
>> On Apr 2, 11:29 pm, salty so...@yahoo . com wrote:
>>> Good morning,
>>>
>>> I'm a cycle noob. I've been riding for about a year and this season I
>>> plan to upgrade from my Honda Rebel Buzzbomber to a brand-spanking-new
>>> 07 Kawasaki Vulcan 900 Custom. Before I go out and purchase the new
>>> bike, I decided to research the break-in period for new engines. The
>>> advice seems to run the gamut from the easy break-in (with no lugging)
>>> to the hard/fast break-in.
>
> I just followed the advice in the manual for my 06 Vulcan 900 Classic.
> Its been working great for me.

You say this as if there are 130,000 people all screaming, "I BROKE IN
MY BIKE ACCORDING TO THE MANUAL AND IT BROKE ON ME!"

Here's your sign....

Re: New Rider - New Bike: Engine Break-in questions.

Polarhound wrote:

> You say this as if there are 130,000 people all screaming, "I BROKE IN
> MY BIKE ACCORDING TO THE MANUAL AND IT BROKE ON ME!"
>
> Here's your sign....

If you're going to pull a "here's your sign" joke, you at least have to
get the context right. Its used in response to someone asking a question
they can obviously see the answer to.

He asked, I responded. My response was perfectly valid as he asked about
break-in procedures for a specific motorcycle, that I also happen to
have, and know the break-in procedure, even if the response was to
follow the manual, like others have said. I've had several products that
the owners manual was just plain wrong. At least I hopefully instilled
a sense of security about a sizable investment.

Re: New Rider - New Bike: Engine Break-in questions.


<salty_sohal@yahoo . com > wrote in message
news:1175574541.548283.233090@y80g2000hsf.googlegroups . com ...
> Good morning,
>
> I'm a cycle noob. I've been riding for about a year and this season I
> plan to upgrade from my Honda Rebel Buzzbomber to a brand-spanking-new
> 07 Kawasaki Vulcan 900 Custom. Before I go out and purchase the new
> bike, I decided to research the break-in period for new engines. The
> advice seems to run the gamut from the easy break-in (with no lugging)
> to the hard/fast break-in.
>
> I ran across a webpage; that on the face seems authoritative, but I
> thought I'd seek some folks with more experience before I disregard my
> manufacturers recommended procedure. The page that got me scratching
> my noodle was: * w w w .mototuneusa . com /break_in_secrets.htm
>
> I'd appreciate your thoughts, especially if you have experience
> building, rebuilding, or repairing late model metric cruisers.

Lots of people adhere to the "rev the bollocks off the thing from the first
crank of the engine" for some reason or other, usually related to oil
consumption.

I followed the manufacturers advice for my Z1000 and now, 13000+ miles
later, it's never burned a single drop of oil between oil/filter changes and
it's never leaked a drop either. Not a single top up and this engine will
pull me to 155mph when I want it to and it pulls me to over 100mph EVERY
time I take it out.

It also starts at the smell of an oily rag too, never misses a beat and has
proven top be 100% reliable.

I'll do the same when I change to my next bike: follow the manuf's advice on
running-in.


--
Beav

VN 750
Zed 1000
OMF# 19

Re: New Rider - New Bike: Engine Break-in questions.


"Beav" <beavis.original@ntlwoxorld . com > wrote in message
news:d%VQh.271$xT6.189@newsfe7-gui.ntli . net ...
>
> <salty_sohal@yahoo . com > wrote in message

...

>> I'd appreciate your thoughts, especially if you have experience
>> building, rebuilding, or repairing late model metric cruisers.
>
> Lots of people adhere to the "rev the bollocks off the thing from the
> first crank of the engine" for some reason or other, usually related to
> oil consumption.

Some rings come pre-seated... some require seating.
If your manual specifies a max RPM during break-
in, then this is what that refers to. If you *know*
what you're doing, you can seat the rings fairly
quickly... and my understanding is, the rings should
be seated in the conditions where they'll meet most
demand. I.E. if you are going to race, then rev
the piss out of the thing in short bursts, with plenty
of time to cool the cylinders down. I pretty much
followed the manufacturer's guidelines (slightly exceeded
in short bursts).

> I followed the manufacturers advice for my Z1000 and now, 13000+ miles
> later, it's never burned a single drop of oil between oil/filter changes
> and it's never leaked a drop either. Not a single top up and this engine
> will pull me to 155mph when I want it to and it pulls me to over 100mph
> EVERY time I take it out.

If you don't seat the rings, then you'll see oil
consumption. The folks that use synthetic
from the first day on a 0 miles bike are screwing
up (unless the factory seated the rings). My
buddy bought the same model, but with the
different front end (Wide Glide), same year,
and insisted on Mobil1 from the first. You
can see the white puff when he takes off now.
Another concern is the cross-hatch honing...
if you smooth out the honing before seating
the rings properly, you'll *never* seat the rings.
__
Steve
'06 FXDI
KI5YG
#0627
.

Re: New Rider - New Bike: Engine Break-in questions.


"Stephen Cowell" <scowell@sbcglobal . net > wrote in message
news:S09Rh.1656$Q23.1367@newssvr17.news.prodigy . net ...
>
> "Beav" <beavis.original@ntlwoxorld . com > wrote in message
> news:d%VQh.271$xT6.189@newsfe7-gui.ntli . net ...
>>
>> <salty_sohal@yahoo . com > wrote in message
>
> ...
>
>>> I'd appreciate your thoughts, especially if you have experience
>>> building, rebuilding, or repairing late model metric cruisers.
>>
>> Lots of people adhere to the "rev the bollocks off the thing from the
>> first crank of the engine" for some reason or other, usually related to
>> oil consumption.
>
> Some rings come pre-seated... some require seating.
> If your manual specifies a max RPM during break-
> in, then this is what that refers to. If you *know*
> what you're doing, you can seat the rings fairly
> quickly... and my understanding is, the rings should
> be seated in the conditions where they'll meet most
> demand. I.E. if you are going to race, then rev
> the piss out of the thing in short bursts, with plenty
> of time to cool the cylinders down. I pretty much
> followed the manufacturer's guidelines (slightly exceeded
> in short bursts).
>
>> I followed the manufacturers advice for my Z1000 and now, 13000+ miles
>> later, it's never burned a single drop of oil between oil/filter changes
>> and it's never leaked a drop either. Not a single top up and this engine
>> will pull me to 155mph when I want it to and it pulls me to over 100mph
>> EVERY time I take it out.
>
> If you don't seat the rings, then you'll see oil
> consumption. The folks that use synthetic
> from the first day on a 0 miles bike are screwing
> up (unless the factory seated the rings). My
> buddy bought the same model, but with the
> different front end (Wide Glide), same year,
> and insisted on Mobil1 from the first. You
> can see the white puff when he takes off now.
> Another concern is the cross-hatch honing...
> if you smooth out the honing before seating
> the rings properly, you'll *never* seat the rings.

But your mention of "if you know what you're doing" says it all. If people
ask about how to run an engine in, they DON'T know and for those, following
the manufacturers recommended procedure is favourite.


--
Beav

VN 750
Zed 1000
OMF# 19

Re: New Rider - New Bike: Engine Break-in questions.

On Apr 2, 11:29 pm, salty so...@yahoo . com wrote:
> I ran across a webpage; that on the face seems authoritative, but I
> thought I'd seek some folks with more experience before I disregard my
> manufacturers recommended procedure. The page that got me scratching
> my noodle was: * w w w .mototuneusa . com /break in secrets.htm

This method is very similar to how I break in all my bikes. Keep in
mind that your motor was run to redline at the factory already, and
that most newer motorcycle engines fully seat and otherwise break in
after about 40 miles.

Back in 1999, when I bought my 2000 ZX6R, I was astounded to read that
Kawasaki didn't want me to exceed 4,000 RPM for the first 600 miles. I
literally laughed out loud with the manual in my hand. 4K didn't even
constitute one third of the rev range and would've made a normal
freeway commute impossible.

I guess the moral of the story is that your owners manual likely takes
the "noob" factor into its recommendations, advising a gentle first
500 miles for rider orientation as much as anything else. Just use
your best judgement and don't worry about it too much.

The only thing I would add to your above link is that heating/cooling
cycles are also important. Go ride until the bike is up to
temperature, then go home and park it until it cools down again. Do
this repeatedly for the first 50 to 100 miles, combine it with what
Motoman recommends in the article, and your engine is broken-in.

Tim Kreitz
2003 ZX7R
2000 ZX6R
* w w w .timkreitz . com

Re: New Rider - New Bike: Engine Break-in questions.

seat the rings soon as possible. at low moderate speed in high gear,
hold at W.O.T. to 75mph then, W.C.T..
engine brake back down to low moderate speed. repeat at lease six
times.
now, follow manufacture's recommendations. g-luck with your bike and
ride safe.

Re: New Rider - New Bike: Engine Break-in questions.

Hey James, who bought your old Magna? There's a slight chance that I now have
it. Red 94 Magna, bought in Columbus a couple of years ago. I got it from a
guy who has a garage full of V65 Sabres. Lived near Indianola Avenue.

--
Jack