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Help me find these bike parts
Help me find these bike parts
I posted this at a sports bike thread last week but no takers, which
is no surprise since most sport bike riders ride new, shiny machines.
So I figure the dirt folk here ought to be a better bet since each of
you likely own at least 3 bikes and the oldest is at least a couple of
decades old. Meaning you likely visit bike wreckers more than anyone
else. Please help if you can. Spring is almost here and I gotta get
this project ready.
http :// tinyurl,com /43tn4y
Having a bit of a hard time locating a couple of parts for this oldie
(this is a pic off BikePics,com , my bike looks a lot worse for wear)
and wonder if you could inquire with your local bike wrecker next
time
you're hunting for parts for your old bike (c'mon everyone must have
an old bike in the collection). As seen in the pic I'm mainly after
the right side plastic cover and a gas tank in good condition, red as
in the pic and with the deco. My gas tank is in too rough a shape
(dents everywhere, deep rust everywhere) and it would be a lot easier
to replace than to paint. Also if I was to paint it, chances are I
wouldn't be able to find the deco to match. Or can I?
Since this is a learners bike for the wife (who's now upgrading to a
bike with gears) it is important that I beautify the thing for her,
even though she's bound to drop it a few times (which is exactly why
an old, small cc beater bike is the ideal learners bike).
Bike is a 83 Kawasaki GPz305, belt driven. In the US it is known as
the EX305. All year models of the bike from 83-89 are compatible.
I have tried a few of the ebay resellers with no luck and most won't
bother replying to your inquiries, as seem to be the case with
several
of the places I contacted via email. So I figured I asked here in the
event someone happens to spot this bike somewhere or wouldn't mind
inquiring with your local old bike parts guy on my behalf.
Thanks.
I posted this at a sports bike thread last week but no takers, which
is no surprise since most sport bike riders ride new, shiny machines.
So I figure the dirt folk here ought to be a better bet since each of
you likely own at least 3 bikes and the oldest is at least a couple of
decades old. Meaning you likely visit bike wreckers more than anyone
else. Please help if you can. Spring is almost here and I gotta get
this project ready.
http :// tinyurl,com /43tn4y
Having a bit of a hard time locating a couple of parts for this oldie
(this is a pic off BikePics,com , my bike looks a lot worse for wear)
and wonder if you could inquire with your local bike wrecker next
time
you're hunting for parts for your old bike (c'mon everyone must have
an old bike in the collection). As seen in the pic I'm mainly after
the right side plastic cover and a gas tank in good condition, red as
in the pic and with the deco. My gas tank is in too rough a shape
(dents everywhere, deep rust everywhere) and it would be a lot easier
to replace than to paint. Also if I was to paint it, chances are I
wouldn't be able to find the deco to match. Or can I?
Since this is a learners bike for the wife (who's now upgrading to a
bike with gears) it is important that I beautify the thing for her,
even though she's bound to drop it a few times (which is exactly why
an old, small cc beater bike is the ideal learners bike).
Bike is a 83 Kawasaki GPz305, belt driven. In the US it is known as
the EX305. All year models of the bike from 83-89 are compatible.
I have tried a few of the ebay resellers with no luck and most won't
bother replying to your inquiries, as seem to be the case with
several
of the places I contacted via email. So I figured I asked here in the
event someone happens to spot this bike somewhere or wouldn't mind
inquiring with your local old bike parts guy on my behalf.
Thanks.
Re: Help me find these bike parts
http :// cyclesrus,net /
is not too far from me
call them and find out if they have the bits you need...at a price you
like....
if you can work out a deal, i can go pick it up & ship it if you like.
john
"Eat Dirt" <eatdirt339@gmail,com > wrote in message
news:74d129c8-27c1-442e-89ae-99d8284cf40d@34g2000hsh.googlegroups,com ...
> I posted this at a sports bike thread last week but no takers, which
> is no surprise since most sport bike riders ride new, shiny machines.
> So I figure the dirt folk here ought to be a better bet since each of
> you likely own at least 3 bikes and the oldest is at least a couple of
> decades old. Meaning you likely visit bike wreckers more than anyone
> else. Please help if you can. Spring is almost here and I gotta get
> this project ready.
>
>
> http :// tinyurl,com /43tn4y
> Having a bit of a hard time locating a couple of parts for this oldie
> (this is a pic off BikePics,com , my bike looks a lot worse for wear)
> and wonder if you could inquire with your local bike wrecker next
> time
> you're hunting for parts for your old bike (c'mon everyone must have
> an old bike in the collection). As seen in the pic I'm mainly after
> the right side plastic cover and a gas tank in good condition, red as
> in the pic and with the deco. My gas tank is in too rough a shape
> (dents everywhere, deep rust everywhere) and it would be a lot easier
> to replace than to paint. Also if I was to paint it, chances are I
> wouldn't be able to find the deco to match. Or can I?
> Since this is a learners bike for the wife (who's now upgrading to a
> bike with gears) it is important that I beautify the thing for her,
> even though she's bound to drop it a few times (which is exactly why
> an old, small cc beater bike is the ideal learners bike).
> Bike is a 83 Kawasaki GPz305, belt driven. In the US it is known as
> the EX305. All year models of the bike from 83-89 are compatible.
> I have tried a few of the ebay resellers with no luck and most won't
> bother replying to your inquiries, as seem to be the case with
> several
> of the places I contacted via email. So I figured I asked here in the
> event someone happens to spot this bike somewhere or wouldn't mind
> inquiring with your local old bike parts guy on my behalf.
> Thanks.
http :// cyclesrus,net /
is not too far from me
call them and find out if they have the bits you need...at a price you
like....
if you can work out a deal, i can go pick it up & ship it if you like.
john
"Eat Dirt" <eatdirt339@gmail,com > wrote in message
news:74d129c8-27c1-442e-89ae-99d8284cf40d@34g2000hsh.googlegroups,com ...
> I posted this at a sports bike thread last week but no takers, which
> is no surprise since most sport bike riders ride new, shiny machines.
> So I figure the dirt folk here ought to be a better bet since each of
> you likely own at least 3 bikes and the oldest is at least a couple of
> decades old. Meaning you likely visit bike wreckers more than anyone
> else. Please help if you can. Spring is almost here and I gotta get
> this project ready.
>
>
> http :// tinyurl,com /43tn4y
> Having a bit of a hard time locating a couple of parts for this oldie
> (this is a pic off BikePics,com , my bike looks a lot worse for wear)
> and wonder if you could inquire with your local bike wrecker next
> time
> you're hunting for parts for your old bike (c'mon everyone must have
> an old bike in the collection). As seen in the pic I'm mainly after
> the right side plastic cover and a gas tank in good condition, red as
> in the pic and with the deco. My gas tank is in too rough a shape
> (dents everywhere, deep rust everywhere) and it would be a lot easier
> to replace than to paint. Also if I was to paint it, chances are I
> wouldn't be able to find the deco to match. Or can I?
> Since this is a learners bike for the wife (who's now upgrading to a
> bike with gears) it is important that I beautify the thing for her,
> even though she's bound to drop it a few times (which is exactly why
> an old, small cc beater bike is the ideal learners bike).
> Bike is a 83 Kawasaki GPz305, belt driven. In the US it is known as
> the EX305. All year models of the bike from 83-89 are compatible.
> I have tried a few of the ebay resellers with no luck and most won't
> bother replying to your inquiries, as seem to be the case with
> several
> of the places I contacted via email. So I figured I asked here in the
> event someone happens to spot this bike somewhere or wouldn't mind
> inquiring with your local old bike parts guy on my behalf.
> Thanks.
Re: Help me find these bike parts
On Apr 23, 9:47 pm, "john" <johnrSNI...@gmailTUCK.con> wrote:
> http :// cyclesrus,net /
> is not too far from me
> call them and find out if they have the bits you need...at a price you
> like....
Thanks for the offer. Unfortunately didn't like the price. For what's
his asking I'm better off going through the hassle of painting it.
I'm still looking around for one at a reasonable price/shape. I really
don't want to paint the tank and am wondering what possible options
are there to get away with hiding all that rust. A friend suggested
covering the tank with some sort of rubber thing. I even thought about
sticking some of my mx bike's stickers all over it when I realized
these are yellow and wouldn't go too well on red/rust. Open to ideas
on how to lazy my way around this. There has to be sort of clever
solution rather than painting or leaving as is.
On Apr 23, 9:47 pm, "john" <johnrSNI...@gmailTUCK.con> wrote:
> http :// cyclesrus,net /
> is not too far from me
> call them and find out if they have the bits you need...at a price you
> like....
Thanks for the offer. Unfortunately didn't like the price. For what's
his asking I'm better off going through the hassle of painting it.
I'm still looking around for one at a reasonable price/shape. I really
don't want to paint the tank and am wondering what possible options
are there to get away with hiding all that rust. A friend suggested
covering the tank with some sort of rubber thing. I even thought about
sticking some of my mx bike's stickers all over it when I realized
these are yellow and wouldn't go too well on red/rust. Open to ideas
on how to lazy my way around this. There has to be sort of clever
solution rather than painting or leaving as is.
Re: Help me find these bike parts
Eat Dirt wrote:
>
> Thanks for the offer. Unfortunately didn't like the price. For what's
> his asking I'm better off going through the hassle of painting it.
> I'm still looking around for one at a reasonable price/shape. I really
> don't want to paint the tank and am wondering what possible options
> are there to get away with hiding all that rust. A friend suggested
> covering the tank with some sort of rubber thing. I even thought about
> sticking some of my mx bike's stickers all over it when I realized
> these are yellow and wouldn't go too well on red/rust. Open to ideas
> on how to lazy my way around this. There has to be sort of clever
> solution rather than painting or leaving as is.
I have a little rust inside my tank. What I do is use an inline fuel
filter and change it often, it is cheap enough to change at least once
every two months, or once every oil change... I've seen folks using
car fuel filters with badly rusted tanks. Keep an eye on the screen
that there is on the petcock, more than once I've seen someone pull
the hairs out trying to figure out bike problems and turned out that
was the petcock screen plugged.
Rust spots on the exterior can be fixed with sandpaper and the paint
(or clearcoat, or primer, or fingernail polish) of your choice applyed
with a small brush.
good luck!
-- Tiago
Eat Dirt wrote:
>
> Thanks for the offer. Unfortunately didn't like the price. For what's
> his asking I'm better off going through the hassle of painting it.
> I'm still looking around for one at a reasonable price/shape. I really
> don't want to paint the tank and am wondering what possible options
> are there to get away with hiding all that rust. A friend suggested
> covering the tank with some sort of rubber thing. I even thought about
> sticking some of my mx bike's stickers all over it when I realized
> these are yellow and wouldn't go too well on red/rust. Open to ideas
> on how to lazy my way around this. There has to be sort of clever
> solution rather than painting or leaving as is.
I have a little rust inside my tank. What I do is use an inline fuel
filter and change it often, it is cheap enough to change at least once
every two months, or once every oil change... I've seen folks using
car fuel filters with badly rusted tanks. Keep an eye on the screen
that there is on the petcock, more than once I've seen someone pull
the hairs out trying to figure out bike problems and turned out that
was the petcock screen plugged.
Rust spots on the exterior can be fixed with sandpaper and the paint
(or clearcoat, or primer, or fingernail polish) of your choice applyed
with a small brush.
good luck!
-- Tiago
Re: Help me find these bike parts
On Apr 25, 5:24 am, Tiago Rocha <diariodastril...@gmail,com > wrote:
>
> I have a little rust inside my tank.
>
> -- Tiago
No rust inside, just on the outside as you can see in the link I just
posted. In fact I had the tank out and cleaned it nicely with
combustion chamber cleaner and rinsed it many times with small amounts
of gas, so all the little bits of dirt and crap came out. So tank
isn't bad due to a good interior.
On Apr 25, 5:24 am, Tiago Rocha <diariodastril...@gmail,com > wrote:
>
> I have a little rust inside my tank.
>
> -- Tiago
No rust inside, just on the outside as you can see in the link I just
posted. In fact I had the tank out and cleaned it nicely with
combustion chamber cleaner and rinsed it many times with small amounts
of gas, so all the little bits of dirt and crap came out. So tank
isn't bad due to a good interior.
Re: Help me find these bike parts
On Apr 25, 1:55 am, Eat Dirt <eatdirt...@gmail,com > wrote:
> On Apr 23, 9:47 pm, "john" <johnrSNI...@gmailTUCK.con> wrote:
>
> > http :// cyclesrus,net /
> > is not too far from me
> > call them and find out if they have the bits you need...at a price you
> > like....
>
> Thanks for the offer. Unfortunately didn't like the price. For what's
> his asking I'm better off going through the hassle of painting it.
> I'm still looking around for one at a reasonable price/shape. I really
> don't want to paint the tank and am wondering what possible options
> are there to get away with hiding all that rust. A friend suggested
> covering the tank with some sort of rubber thing. I even thought about
> sticking some of my mx bike's stickers all over it when I realized
> these are yellow and wouldn't go too well on red/rust. Open to ideas
> on how to lazy my way around this. There has to be sort of clever
> solution rather than painting or leaving as is.
Bedliner.
Dave
On Apr 25, 1:55 am, Eat Dirt <eatdirt...@gmail,com > wrote:
> On Apr 23, 9:47 pm, "john" <johnrSNI...@gmailTUCK.con> wrote:
>
> > http :// cyclesrus,net /
> > is not too far from me
> > call them and find out if they have the bits you need...at a price you
> > like....
>
> Thanks for the offer. Unfortunately didn't like the price. For what's
> his asking I'm better off going through the hassle of painting it.
> I'm still looking around for one at a reasonable price/shape. I really
> don't want to paint the tank and am wondering what possible options
> are there to get away with hiding all that rust. A friend suggested
> covering the tank with some sort of rubber thing. I even thought about
> sticking some of my mx bike's stickers all over it when I realized
> these are yellow and wouldn't go too well on red/rust. Open to ideas
> on how to lazy my way around this. There has to be sort of clever
> solution rather than painting or leaving as is.
Bedliner.
Dave
Re: Help me find these bike parts
On Apr 25, 6:50 am, XR650L Dave <spamTHIS...@yahoo,com > wrote:
> Bedliner.
>
> Dave
My gas tank/engine: http :// tinyurl,com /3glj6f
K, this is good - we're getting some ideas now. So here, in order to
help I took a few pics of the tank to give you an idea of what I have
to deal with. It ain't pretty. Doing a 'proper' paint job in this
thing isn't something I can do as I don't have the sprayer or even a
place to do it, not to mention it would be a waste of resources on
such an old bike. A friend who does decent painting is too busy to do
it. So I'm left with trying to find a way to make this look less of an
eye sore, short of locating a replacement tank, which is proving to be
hard and costly.
The other issue is, the tank has a few dings and nicks. Not sure if a
chip repair place would be able to easily 'suck' these out. Reason why
if someone has some ideas of how I can hide the tank with some clever
way that won't make it look silly, I'm all ears. One such idea was to
place a tank bag on it. A magnetic one would hide most of it but at
$150 it's a bit high. Not to mention it's something that would have to
be taken out and put back each time. No good.
Now, if I was to paint this thing I'd do it the quick and easy way.
I'm pretty handy with a small roller and would opt to roll it out
instead of spraying. Sanding this won't be a fun job. May have to find
some kind of attachment for the drill. Then prime and roll it out with
some sort of paint, hopefully one that is close. Then clearcoat too
suppose. Is clearcoating necessary or would it look too dull without
it?
But there's yet another issue: the decos. I've seen these bikes
repainted and without the decos and they look like street fighters,
not a look the wife is crazy about. No one seems to sell these,
although I've seen a few Kawasaki decos for sale on ebay. But if
painting I'd like to get the blue/gray stripe going. Anyone knows if
this is something I can find somewhere or even print at some large
print store if I was to draw it up myself?
And lastly... I also want to paint the engine's fins. The other side
looks fine but this side was exposed to the sun for several years.
What paint can I use for this? Obviously it should be heat resistant
like the one I got for the pipes as in the last pic (not currently on
as they're drying). The paint I got for the pipes is flat but the
engine should have a bit of shin to it, in order to match the rest of
it. Anyone knows what to use or can I go with the Tremclad paint sold
at Walmart? I suppose I could buy a small can of semi gloss and mix it
with the flat to achieve something similar to what's on the bike.
Opinions?
Funny how I'm getting all the help from dirt riders for this street
bike. Guess the snobs at the sport bike ng feel that such an old thing
isn't worthy of their time.
On Apr 25, 6:50 am, XR650L Dave <spamTHIS...@yahoo,com > wrote:
> Bedliner.
>
> Dave
My gas tank/engine: http :// tinyurl,com /3glj6f
K, this is good - we're getting some ideas now. So here, in order to
help I took a few pics of the tank to give you an idea of what I have
to deal with. It ain't pretty. Doing a 'proper' paint job in this
thing isn't something I can do as I don't have the sprayer or even a
place to do it, not to mention it would be a waste of resources on
such an old bike. A friend who does decent painting is too busy to do
it. So I'm left with trying to find a way to make this look less of an
eye sore, short of locating a replacement tank, which is proving to be
hard and costly.
The other issue is, the tank has a few dings and nicks. Not sure if a
chip repair place would be able to easily 'suck' these out. Reason why
if someone has some ideas of how I can hide the tank with some clever
way that won't make it look silly, I'm all ears. One such idea was to
place a tank bag on it. A magnetic one would hide most of it but at
$150 it's a bit high. Not to mention it's something that would have to
be taken out and put back each time. No good.
Now, if I was to paint this thing I'd do it the quick and easy way.
I'm pretty handy with a small roller and would opt to roll it out
instead of spraying. Sanding this won't be a fun job. May have to find
some kind of attachment for the drill. Then prime and roll it out with
some sort of paint, hopefully one that is close. Then clearcoat too
suppose. Is clearcoating necessary or would it look too dull without
it?
But there's yet another issue: the decos. I've seen these bikes
repainted and without the decos and they look like street fighters,
not a look the wife is crazy about. No one seems to sell these,
although I've seen a few Kawasaki decos for sale on ebay. But if
painting I'd like to get the blue/gray stripe going. Anyone knows if
this is something I can find somewhere or even print at some large
print store if I was to draw it up myself?
And lastly... I also want to paint the engine's fins. The other side
looks fine but this side was exposed to the sun for several years.
What paint can I use for this? Obviously it should be heat resistant
like the one I got for the pipes as in the last pic (not currently on
as they're drying). The paint I got for the pipes is flat but the
engine should have a bit of shin to it, in order to match the rest of
it. Anyone knows what to use or can I go with the Tremclad paint sold
at Walmart? I suppose I could buy a small can of semi gloss and mix it
with the flat to achieve something similar to what's on the bike.
Opinions?
Funny how I'm getting all the help from dirt riders for this street
bike. Guess the snobs at the sport bike ng feel that such an old thing
isn't worthy of their time.
Re: Help me find these bike parts
Just an idea:
Go to a local sign shop, sign supply house, or plastic supply house and get
some pressure sensitive vinyl in two or three colors she likes that will
look good together. Then do a random or not so random geometric design on
the bodywork for a cool custom look. With practice and patience, the stuff
is pretty good at wrapping compound curves, especially if the design works
towards that end. A hair dryer used very gently adds just a little stretch
for those tough wraps. Sand and spray prime any rust spots first. Textures
will show right through the vinyl.
I'd let you try some from my selection but you are on the arctic circle or
something right? Let me know if you can't find it.
HTH,
Dean
"Eat Dirt" <eatdirt339@gmail,com > wrote in message
news:1214934e-316f-47e6-b18f-ab4760678c96@e39g2000hsf.googlegroups,com ...
On Apr 25, 6:50 am, XR650L_Dave <spamTHIS...@yahoo,com > wrote:
> Bedliner.
>
> Dave
My gas tank/engine: http :// tinyurl,com /3glj6f
K, this is good - we're getting some ideas now. So here, in order to
help I took a few pics of the tank to give you an idea of what I have
to deal with. It ain't pretty. Doing a 'proper' paint job in this
thing isn't something I can do as I don't have the sprayer or even a
place to do it, not to mention it would be a waste of resources on
such an old bike. A friend who does decent painting is too busy to do
it. So I'm left with trying to find a way to make this look less of an
eye sore, short of locating a replacement tank, which is proving to be
hard and costly.
The other issue is, the tank has a few dings and nicks. Not sure if a
chip repair place would be able to easily 'suck' these out. Reason why
if someone has some ideas of how I can hide the tank with some clever
way that won't make it look silly, I'm all ears. One such idea was to
place a tank bag on it. A magnetic one would hide most of it but at
$150 it's a bit high. Not to mention it's something that would have to
be taken out and put back each time. No good.
Now, if I was to paint this thing I'd do it the quick and easy way.
I'm pretty handy with a small roller and would opt to roll it out
instead of spraying. Sanding this won't be a fun job. May have to find
some kind of attachment for the drill. Then prime and roll it out with
some sort of paint, hopefully one that is close. Then clearcoat too
suppose. Is clearcoating necessary or would it look too dull without
it?
But there's yet another issue: the decos. I've seen these bikes
repainted and without the decos and they look like street fighters,
not a look the wife is crazy about. No one seems to sell these,
although I've seen a few Kawasaki decos for sale on ebay. But if
painting I'd like to get the blue/gray stripe going. Anyone knows if
this is something I can find somewhere or even print at some large
print store if I was to draw it up myself?
And lastly... I also want to paint the engine's fins. The other side
looks fine but this side was exposed to the sun for several years.
What paint can I use for this? Obviously it should be heat resistant
like the one I got for the pipes as in the last pic (not currently on
as they're drying). The paint I got for the pipes is flat but the
engine should have a bit of shin to it, in order to match the rest of
it. Anyone knows what to use or can I go with the Tremclad paint sold
at Walmart? I suppose I could buy a small can of semi gloss and mix it
with the flat to achieve something similar to what's on the bike.
Opinions?
Funny how I'm getting all the help from dirt riders for this street
bike. Guess the snobs at the sport bike ng feel that such an old thing
isn't worthy of their time.
Just an idea:
Go to a local sign shop, sign supply house, or plastic supply house and get
some pressure sensitive vinyl in two or three colors she likes that will
look good together. Then do a random or not so random geometric design on
the bodywork for a cool custom look. With practice and patience, the stuff
is pretty good at wrapping compound curves, especially if the design works
towards that end. A hair dryer used very gently adds just a little stretch
for those tough wraps. Sand and spray prime any rust spots first. Textures
will show right through the vinyl.
I'd let you try some from my selection but you are on the arctic circle or
something right? Let me know if you can't find it.
HTH,
Dean
"Eat Dirt" <eatdirt339@gmail,com > wrote in message
news:1214934e-316f-47e6-b18f-ab4760678c96@e39g2000hsf.googlegroups,com ...
On Apr 25, 6:50 am, XR650L_Dave <spamTHIS...@yahoo,com > wrote:
> Bedliner.
>
> Dave
My gas tank/engine: http :// tinyurl,com /3glj6f
K, this is good - we're getting some ideas now. So here, in order to
help I took a few pics of the tank to give you an idea of what I have
to deal with. It ain't pretty. Doing a 'proper' paint job in this
thing isn't something I can do as I don't have the sprayer or even a
place to do it, not to mention it would be a waste of resources on
such an old bike. A friend who does decent painting is too busy to do
it. So I'm left with trying to find a way to make this look less of an
eye sore, short of locating a replacement tank, which is proving to be
hard and costly.
The other issue is, the tank has a few dings and nicks. Not sure if a
chip repair place would be able to easily 'suck' these out. Reason why
if someone has some ideas of how I can hide the tank with some clever
way that won't make it look silly, I'm all ears. One such idea was to
place a tank bag on it. A magnetic one would hide most of it but at
$150 it's a bit high. Not to mention it's something that would have to
be taken out and put back each time. No good.
Now, if I was to paint this thing I'd do it the quick and easy way.
I'm pretty handy with a small roller and would opt to roll it out
instead of spraying. Sanding this won't be a fun job. May have to find
some kind of attachment for the drill. Then prime and roll it out with
some sort of paint, hopefully one that is close. Then clearcoat too
suppose. Is clearcoating necessary or would it look too dull without
it?
But there's yet another issue: the decos. I've seen these bikes
repainted and without the decos and they look like street fighters,
not a look the wife is crazy about. No one seems to sell these,
although I've seen a few Kawasaki decos for sale on ebay. But if
painting I'd like to get the blue/gray stripe going. Anyone knows if
this is something I can find somewhere or even print at some large
print store if I was to draw it up myself?
And lastly... I also want to paint the engine's fins. The other side
looks fine but this side was exposed to the sun for several years.
What paint can I use for this? Obviously it should be heat resistant
like the one I got for the pipes as in the last pic (not currently on
as they're drying). The paint I got for the pipes is flat but the
engine should have a bit of shin to it, in order to match the rest of
it. Anyone knows what to use or can I go with the Tremclad paint sold
at Walmart? I suppose I could buy a small can of semi gloss and mix it
with the flat to achieve something similar to what's on the bike.
Opinions?
Funny how I'm getting all the help from dirt riders for this street
bike. Guess the snobs at the sport bike ng feel that such an old thing
isn't worthy of their time.
Re: Help me find these bike parts
On Apr 25, 7:49 pm, Eat Dirt <eatdirt...@gmail,com > wrote:
> On Apr 25, 6:50 am, XR650L Dave <spamTHIS...@yahoo,com > wrote:
>
> > Bedliner.
>
> > Dave
>
> My gas tank/engine: http :// tinyurl,com /3glj6f
ED, I've painted an entire motorcycle with those thingies that spray
poison, old style pumps
http :// photos1.blogger,com /blogger/7133/1356/1600/flit01.jpg
You'll have to dilute the paint with paint thinner...
The dents can be filled with epoxy, shops that specialize in car
painting carry a stuff that is gray-ish yellow-ish and comes with a
catalyzer, this bonds to the metal and all you have to do is sand it
smooth. Then primer and paint. Labor intensive, yes, but cheap enough.
If you use PU paint, no need to clearcoat. Btw, the primear and
clearcoat, if needed, can be "sprayed" with the pump of the picture
above...
-- Tiago
On Apr 25, 7:49 pm, Eat Dirt <eatdirt...@gmail,com > wrote:
> On Apr 25, 6:50 am, XR650L Dave <spamTHIS...@yahoo,com > wrote:
>
> > Bedliner.
>
> > Dave
>
> My gas tank/engine: http :// tinyurl,com /3glj6f
ED, I've painted an entire motorcycle with those thingies that spray
poison, old style pumps
http :// photos1.blogger,com /blogger/7133/1356/1600/flit01.jpg
You'll have to dilute the paint with paint thinner...
The dents can be filled with epoxy, shops that specialize in car
painting carry a stuff that is gray-ish yellow-ish and comes with a
catalyzer, this bonds to the metal and all you have to do is sand it
smooth. Then primer and paint. Labor intensive, yes, but cheap enough.
If you use PU paint, no need to clearcoat. Btw, the primear and
clearcoat, if needed, can be "sprayed" with the pump of the picture
above...
-- Tiago
Re: Help me find these bike parts
On Apr 28, 5:42 am, Tiago Rocha <diariodastril...@gmail,com > wrote:
> On Apr 25, 7:49 pm, Eat Dirt <eatdirt...@gmail,com > wrote:
>
> > On Apr 25, 6:50 am, XR650L Dave <spamTHIS...@yahoo,com > wrote:
>
> > > Bedliner.
>
> > > Dave
>
> > My gas tank/engine: http :// tinyurl,com /3glj6f
>
> ED, I've painted an entire motorcycle with those thingies that spray
> poison, old style pumps http :// photos1.blogger,com /blogger/7133/1356/1600/flit01.jpg
> You'll have to dilute the paint with paint thinner...
>
> The dents can be filled with epoxy, shops that specialize in car
> painting carry a stuff that is gray-ish yellow-ish and comes with a
> catalyzer, this bonds to the metal and all you have to do is sand it
> smooth. Then primer and paint. Labor intensive, yes, but cheap enough.
> If you use PU paint, no need to clearcoat. Btw, the primear and
> clearcoat, if needed, can be "sprayed" with the pump of the picture
> above...
>
> -- Tiago
Thanks Tiago, you have just prompted me to look more into this it
helped me find a possible solution to cut back on the labour: using a
rust converter. I didn't know these existed till now but apparently it
will convert rust into a black, paintable surface. Meaning I wouldn't
have to go through the horrible process of sanding the tank to bare
metal. It would just mean (based on what I gather, someone please
correct me if I'm wrong) sanding off the thick, lose rust and applying
the converter to the rusted areas. After it cures, remove the excess
with a damp cloth. Then just paint with an oil base paint. Seeing how
the tank has a nice organic shape, I should be able to do my magic
with a small roller, thus not having to scare the poor flies and
mosquitos around here with threat of annihilation by packing one of
those old style bug killers.
Will this work? I don't know but the cost is right and the process is
a lot quicker than doing it the "proper way".
- I figure I'd spend some 20 min cleaning/removing the thick rust out
with some sandpaper.
- Spray the rust converter (some $7 at Walmart) on the rusted areas.
Repeat then wait 2 days for it to cure (half hour tops).
- Fill the dents with a body filler like you suggested and sand (1
hour or so)
- Apply primer to the tank (may skip this if I decide not to use body
filler) (20 min)
- Have my local paint shop match the paint in the tank (underside of
the tank looks clean and paint there isn't faded) and just buy a 250ml
can (less than $10 and some 30 min for driving there twice).
- Apply a couple of coats of the matching red paint using a small
roller (about 1 hour).
- Wait till it dries then apply the deco, which I'm sure I can find a
store around here to reproduce (cost unknown). Apply these to the tank
with some spray-on glue. Also buy on ebay the Kawasaki proper deco
(around $15 bux)
- Then apply a few coats of clearcoat (not sure if this should be
sprayed on or rolled on, could use advice here).
What do you think? I like the idea of keeping my own tank since I know
it works well and is the original tank, versus taking a chance at
buying a used one that could be rusted on the inside or have other
issues.
On Apr 28, 5:42 am, Tiago Rocha <diariodastril...@gmail,com > wrote:
> On Apr 25, 7:49 pm, Eat Dirt <eatdirt...@gmail,com > wrote:
>
> > On Apr 25, 6:50 am, XR650L Dave <spamTHIS...@yahoo,com > wrote:
>
> > > Bedliner.
>
> > > Dave
>
> > My gas tank/engine: http :// tinyurl,com /3glj6f
>
> ED, I've painted an entire motorcycle with those thingies that spray
> poison, old style pumps http :// photos1.blogger,com /blogger/7133/1356/1600/flit01.jpg
> You'll have to dilute the paint with paint thinner...
>
> The dents can be filled with epoxy, shops that specialize in car
> painting carry a stuff that is gray-ish yellow-ish and comes with a
> catalyzer, this bonds to the metal and all you have to do is sand it
> smooth. Then primer and paint. Labor intensive, yes, but cheap enough.
> If you use PU paint, no need to clearcoat. Btw, the primear and
> clearcoat, if needed, can be "sprayed" with the pump of the picture
> above...
>
> -- Tiago
Thanks Tiago, you have just prompted me to look more into this it
helped me find a possible solution to cut back on the labour: using a
rust converter. I didn't know these existed till now but apparently it
will convert rust into a black, paintable surface. Meaning I wouldn't
have to go through the horrible process of sanding the tank to bare
metal. It would just mean (based on what I gather, someone please
correct me if I'm wrong) sanding off the thick, lose rust and applying
the converter to the rusted areas. After it cures, remove the excess
with a damp cloth. Then just paint with an oil base paint. Seeing how
the tank has a nice organic shape, I should be able to do my magic
with a small roller, thus not having to scare the poor flies and
mosquitos around here with threat of annihilation by packing one of
those old style bug killers.
Will this work? I don't know but the cost is right and the process is
a lot quicker than doing it the "proper way".
- I figure I'd spend some 20 min cleaning/removing the thick rust out
with some sandpaper.
- Spray the rust converter (some $7 at Walmart) on the rusted areas.
Repeat then wait 2 days for it to cure (half hour tops).
- Fill the dents with a body filler like you suggested and sand (1
hour or so)
- Apply primer to the tank (may skip this if I decide not to use body
filler) (20 min)
- Have my local paint shop match the paint in the tank (underside of
the tank looks clean and paint there isn't faded) and just buy a 250ml
can (less than $10 and some 30 min for driving there twice).
- Apply a couple of coats of the matching red paint using a small
roller (about 1 hour).
- Wait till it dries then apply the deco, which I'm sure I can find a
store around here to reproduce (cost unknown). Apply these to the tank
with some spray-on glue. Also buy on ebay the Kawasaki proper deco
(around $15 bux)
- Then apply a few coats of clearcoat (not sure if this should be
sprayed on or rolled on, could use advice here).
What do you think? I like the idea of keeping my own tank since I know
it works well and is the original tank, versus taking a chance at
buying a used one that could be rusted on the inside or have other
issues.
Re: Help me find these bike parts
Hi!
On Mon, 28 Apr 2008 09:26:22 -0700 (PDT), Eat Dirt wrote:
> find a possible solution to cut back on the labour: using a
> rust converter. [...] Meaning I wouldn't
> have to go through the horrible process of sanding the tank to bare
> metal. [instead] sanding off the thick, lose rust and applying
> the converter to the rusted areas. [...]
That's the theory. In fact, rust converters don't "know" how thick the
rusted surface is. So you still risk nests where the paint probably won't
stick and come off if there is shear and the area is too large. When you
say, you're intending to use "oil based" paint, I hope you mean acrylic
paint, preferrably a system that has paint plus hardener plus thinner
(2-component-systems). Epoxy based systems usually don't get as hard as
necessary, fuel resistancy and gloss suffers and there might also be
incompatibilities with existing paint and/or clear coat that you might or
might not want to apply.
> Will this work? I don't know but the cost is right and the process is
> a lot quicker than doing it the "proper way".
The proper way would probably be using paint stripper/heat and a
sandblasting tool. If you're going the rust-converter way, please be sure
to test that the paint will stick to the converter. In my experience this
is not always the case, especially if you don't correctly remove the excess
converter.
> - Fill the dents with a body filler like you suggested and sand (1
> hour or so)
> - Apply primer to the tank (may skip this if I decide not to use body
> filler) (20 min)
> - Have my local paint shop match the paint in the tank (underside of
> the tank looks clean and paint there isn't faded) and just buy a 250ml
> can (less than $10 and some 30 min for driving there twice).
> - Apply a couple of coats of the matching red paint using a small
> roller (about 1 hour).
That's indeed the way to go. If you don't mind a little texture, a roller
is fine for the paint. If you apply (acrylic) clear coat ontop of the
paint, do this with a brush designed for such a job if you don't have
access to a paint gun. Hint: For all layers (except the clear coat): As
thin as possible, as thick as necessary. Don't overdo - especially the
primer/filler.
> - Wait till it dries then apply the deco, which I'm sure I can find a
> store around here to reproduce (cost unknown). Apply these to the tank
> with some spray-on glue.
Normally you won't need glue. Most deco-kits comes with adhesive surface.
If you go to a foil shop that has a cutting-plotter, you might be able to
give them a CorelDraw/EPS/PDF/...-file and they'll cut anything you want
in any foil you want. Just make sure that the foil (incl. the adhesive)
will survive the clear coat.
> Also buy on ebay the Kawasaki proper deco
Beware the quality. Some of then can't be coated.
> - Then apply a few coats of clearcoat (not sure if this should be
> sprayed on or rolled on, could use advice here).
Spray or brush.
> What do you think? I like the idea of keeping my own tank since I know
> it works well and is the original tank, versus taking a chance at
> buying a used one that could be rusted on the inside or have other
> issues.
If you tank is clean on the inside, that sure is a plus. And: You can learn
something after all.
Cheers,
Volker
--
@: I N F O at B A R T H E L D dot N E T
3W: www .bartheld,net
Hi!
On Mon, 28 Apr 2008 09:26:22 -0700 (PDT), Eat Dirt wrote:
> find a possible solution to cut back on the labour: using a
> rust converter. [...] Meaning I wouldn't
> have to go through the horrible process of sanding the tank to bare
> metal. [instead] sanding off the thick, lose rust and applying
> the converter to the rusted areas. [...]
That's the theory. In fact, rust converters don't "know" how thick the
rusted surface is. So you still risk nests where the paint probably won't
stick and come off if there is shear and the area is too large. When you
say, you're intending to use "oil based" paint, I hope you mean acrylic
paint, preferrably a system that has paint plus hardener plus thinner
(2-component-systems). Epoxy based systems usually don't get as hard as
necessary, fuel resistancy and gloss suffers and there might also be
incompatibilities with existing paint and/or clear coat that you might or
might not want to apply.
> Will this work? I don't know but the cost is right and the process is
> a lot quicker than doing it the "proper way".
The proper way would probably be using paint stripper/heat and a
sandblasting tool. If you're going the rust-converter way, please be sure
to test that the paint will stick to the converter. In my experience this
is not always the case, especially if you don't correctly remove the excess
converter.
> - Fill the dents with a body filler like you suggested and sand (1
> hour or so)
> - Apply primer to the tank (may skip this if I decide not to use body
> filler) (20 min)
> - Have my local paint shop match the paint in the tank (underside of
> the tank looks clean and paint there isn't faded) and just buy a 250ml
> can (less than $10 and some 30 min for driving there twice).
> - Apply a couple of coats of the matching red paint using a small
> roller (about 1 hour).
That's indeed the way to go. If you don't mind a little texture, a roller
is fine for the paint. If you apply (acrylic) clear coat ontop of the
paint, do this with a brush designed for such a job if you don't have
access to a paint gun. Hint: For all layers (except the clear coat): As
thin as possible, as thick as necessary. Don't overdo - especially the
primer/filler.
> - Wait till it dries then apply the deco, which I'm sure I can find a
> store around here to reproduce (cost unknown). Apply these to the tank
> with some spray-on glue.
Normally you won't need glue. Most deco-kits comes with adhesive surface.
If you go to a foil shop that has a cutting-plotter, you might be able to
give them a CorelDraw/EPS/PDF/...-file and they'll cut anything you want
in any foil you want. Just make sure that the foil (incl. the adhesive)
will survive the clear coat.
> Also buy on ebay the Kawasaki proper deco
Beware the quality. Some of then can't be coated.
> - Then apply a few coats of clearcoat (not sure if this should be
> sprayed on or rolled on, could use advice here).
Spray or brush.
> What do you think? I like the idea of keeping my own tank since I know
> it works well and is the original tank, versus taking a chance at
> buying a used one that could be rusted on the inside or have other
> issues.
If you tank is clean on the inside, that sure is a plus. And: You can learn
something after all.
Cheers,
Volker
--
@: I N F O at B A R T H E L D dot N E T
3W: www .bartheld,net
Re: Help me find these bike parts
On Apr 29, 1:43 am, Volker Bartheld <dr vers...@freenet.de> In fact,
rust converters don't "know" how thick the
> rusted surface is. So you still risk nests where the paint probably won't
> stick and come off if there is shear and the area is too large.
Good, so you have used it. The part about the paint not sticking to
the black end result worries me (converter). Do you suppose that it
would solve any potential problems if I was to completely prime the
tank after applying the rust converter? As you can see in the link
http :// tinyurl,com /3glj6f I have a considerable amount of rust to
deal with. Is it true that I'm better off leaving most of the rust in
place so that the converter has more material to work with by just
using a wire brush instead of say, a 200 grit sandpaper? This part
isn't clear to me.
If this was your project how would you treat the rust? Naturally I'm
hoping to achieve a fairly even finish. Meaning I may have to sand the
black end result in order to smooth it out (I suppose).
Btw I went to the printers today and they do print to order in a self
adhesive material that is ideal for creating decos with, which is also
clear coat resistant. Also, a store here has spray cans of clearcoat
for just 9 bux. I'd like to apply some 3 coats of it once the decos
are on but how do I do this? Do I just wait for the previous coat to
dry and repeat or do I need lightly buff in between application? How
light do you apply the clearcoat?
Yes, I do enjoy learning from those that have had the experience and
I'm not afraid to admit to it. Otherwise what's the point in being
here?
On Apr 29, 1:43 am, Volker Bartheld <dr vers...@freenet.de> In fact,
rust converters don't "know" how thick the
> rusted surface is. So you still risk nests where the paint probably won't
> stick and come off if there is shear and the area is too large.
Good, so you have used it. The part about the paint not sticking to
the black end result worries me (converter). Do you suppose that it
would solve any potential problems if I was to completely prime the
tank after applying the rust converter? As you can see in the link
http :// tinyurl,com /3glj6f I have a considerable amount of rust to
deal with. Is it true that I'm better off leaving most of the rust in
place so that the converter has more material to work with by just
using a wire brush instead of say, a 200 grit sandpaper? This part
isn't clear to me.
If this was your project how would you treat the rust? Naturally I'm
hoping to achieve a fairly even finish. Meaning I may have to sand the
black end result in order to smooth it out (I suppose).
Btw I went to the printers today and they do print to order in a self
adhesive material that is ideal for creating decos with, which is also
clear coat resistant. Also, a store here has spray cans of clearcoat
for just 9 bux. I'd like to apply some 3 coats of it once the decos
are on but how do I do this? Do I just wait for the previous coat to
dry and repeat or do I need lightly buff in between application? How
light do you apply the clearcoat?
Yes, I do enjoy learning from those that have had the experience and
I'm not afraid to admit to it. Otherwise what's the point in being
here?
Re: Help me find these bike parts
Hi!
> On Apr 29, 1:43 am, Volker Bartheld <dr vers...@freenet.de>
>> In fact, rust converters don't "know" how thick the
>> rusted surface is. So you still risk nests where the paint probably won't
>> stick and come off if there is shear and the area is too large.
> Good, so you have used it. The part about the paint not sticking to
> the black end result worries me (converter).
I used a product called "BOB" with relatively good results. I also used
"Fertan" for the instide of my Yam YZ426F's frame (where there was no need
to paint over the converter). Fertan-manual says, you should just rinse off
the excess product and let dry. So it's water-soluble and you'll probably
have to sand it lightly to get a good surface for the primer (who hopefully
won't dissolve/eat away the converter). You'll have to test the
combinations. I found that a combination of expoxy primer with acrylate
paint didn't work to my satisfactio. The two chemistries seem to be
incompatible.
> Do you suppose that it
> would solve any potential problems if I was to completely prime the
> tank after applying the rust converter?
I would do this in any case. Only a complete priming guarantees a good
surface for the paint that is to follow.
> As you can see in the link
> http :// tinyurl,com /3glj6f I have a considerable amount of rust to
> deal with. Is it true that I'm better off leaving most of the rust in
> place so that the converter has more material to work with by just
> using a wire brush instead of say, a 200 grit sandpaper?
I wouldn't do so. Actually, I would remove the rust as good as possible and
leave a surface as smooth as possible. All water based rust converters will
also work on naked metal (since there always is a thin layer of oxide or it
will develop in the watery environment), so the less rust the better I'd
say.
> If this was your project how would you treat the rust?
I would first scrub off the big parts with a brush. Then 200/320/400 grit
sandpaper. And probably a sandblasting unit.
> Naturally I'm
> hoping to achieve a fairly even finish. Meaning I may have to sand the
> black end result in order to smooth it out (I suppose).
Take care. The rust converter (at least the products I kown of) don't leave
a very hard surface. So you can easily sand through the layer (which is not
a big problem if you do your priming soon after).
> Btw I went to the printers today and they do print to order in a self
> adhesive material that is ideal for creating decos with, which is also
> clear coat resistant.
Perfect!
> Also, a store here has spray cans of clearcoat
> for just 9 bux.
Is it a "ready-to-go" can? In my experience, those don't get a hard and
scratch-resistant as the bottles you mix with hardener and thinner. I
always use a 2K-system, the litre of clear coat is arount 50-60EUR (30USD)
plus hardener (should be mixed 1:2) for 10EUR or so. That works fine, can
be applied using a spray gun or paint prush (compatible with acrylic
paints) and relieably hardens even with lower temperatures (below 15°C all
1K systems take ages until the finally get hard). Try it out on some sheet
metal to get a feeling how those cans work. There are good and bad ones.
> I'd like to apply some 3 coats of it once the decos
> are on but how do I do this? Do I just wait for the previous coat to
> dry and repeat or do I need lightly buff in between application?
Don't buff. The timing depends on the way you apply the coat. If you use a
spray gun/can (close to no mechanic force on the previous layer) you'll
only have to wait until the earlier layer doesn't run anymore but still is
a bit sticky. Hint: In that state, it will still accept fingerprints (gets
dull where you touch it) but you won't be able to move it or wash it away
with compressed air. That way, the layers will stick to each other best.
Don't overdo, stop spraying as soon as there is some gloss.
For paint rolling or brushing, you need to wait longer because you actually
touch the surface. Rolling (I don't recommend that for clear coat) will
mean almost a complete cure time (a day or so) for brushing few hours would
be OK (normal room temperature).
> How light do you apply the clearcoat?
Very light. Hint: More thin layers are better as one thick layer.
> Yes, I do enjoy learning from those that have had the experience and
> I'm not afraid to admit to it. Otherwise what's the point in being
> here?
Yup. Exactly. Probably you should first try your methods somewhere where
the learning curve won't hurt. Getting access to a spray gun (even if it is
a very cheap thing for around 40-50 bucks) and an air-compressor is an
invaluable thing. It will allow to apply much thinner layers, reducing cure
time and costs. Also there is less danger that you get ugly noses because
the paint was too thin or the amount too high.
In my opinion you should do a spray painting of clear coat as soon as you
plan to have stickers under it. It will simply give you a much flusher,
nicer surface. If you spray, you should pay great attention to a dust-free
room/location. I also did "outdoor stuff" and there seems to always be a
fly wanting to sit on fresh paint...
Good luck!
--
@: I N F O at B A R T H E L D dot N E T
3W: www .bartheld,net
Hi!
> On Apr 29, 1:43 am, Volker Bartheld <dr vers...@freenet.de>
>> In fact, rust converters don't "know" how thick the
>> rusted surface is. So you still risk nests where the paint probably won't
>> stick and come off if there is shear and the area is too large.
> Good, so you have used it. The part about the paint not sticking to
> the black end result worries me (converter).
I used a product called "BOB" with relatively good results. I also used
"Fertan" for the instide of my Yam YZ426F's frame (where there was no need
to paint over the converter). Fertan-manual says, you should just rinse off
the excess product and let dry. So it's water-soluble and you'll probably
have to sand it lightly to get a good surface for the primer (who hopefully
won't dissolve/eat away the converter). You'll have to test the
combinations. I found that a combination of expoxy primer with acrylate
paint didn't work to my satisfactio. The two chemistries seem to be
incompatible.
> Do you suppose that it
> would solve any potential problems if I was to completely prime the
> tank after applying the rust converter?
I would do this in any case. Only a complete priming guarantees a good
surface for the paint that is to follow.
> As you can see in the link
> http :// tinyurl,com /3glj6f I have a considerable amount of rust to
> deal with. Is it true that I'm better off leaving most of the rust in
> place so that the converter has more material to work with by just
> using a wire brush instead of say, a 200 grit sandpaper?
I wouldn't do so. Actually, I would remove the rust as good as possible and
leave a surface as smooth as possible. All water based rust converters will
also work on naked metal (since there always is a thin layer of oxide or it
will develop in the watery environment), so the less rust the better I'd
say.
> If this was your project how would you treat the rust?
I would first scrub off the big parts with a brush. Then 200/320/400 grit
sandpaper. And probably a sandblasting unit.
> Naturally I'm
> hoping to achieve a fairly even finish. Meaning I may have to sand the
> black end result in order to smooth it out (I suppose).
Take care. The rust converter (at least the products I kown of) don't leave
a very hard surface. So you can easily sand through the layer (which is not
a big problem if you do your priming soon after).
> Btw I went to the printers today and they do print to order in a self
> adhesive material that is ideal for creating decos with, which is also
> clear coat resistant.
Perfect!
> Also, a store here has spray cans of clearcoat
> for just 9 bux.
Is it a "ready-to-go" can? In my experience, those don't get a hard and
scratch-resistant as the bottles you mix with hardener and thinner. I
always use a 2K-system, the litre of clear coat is arount 50-60EUR (30USD)
plus hardener (should be mixed 1:2) for 10EUR or so. That works fine, can
be applied using a spray gun or paint prush (compatible with acrylic
paints) and relieably hardens even with lower temperatures (below 15°C all
1K systems take ages until the finally get hard). Try it out on some sheet
metal to get a feeling how those cans work. There are good and bad ones.
> I'd like to apply some 3 coats of it once the decos
> are on but how do I do this? Do I just wait for the previous coat to
> dry and repeat or do I need lightly buff in between application?
Don't buff. The timing depends on the way you apply the coat. If you use a
spray gun/can (close to no mechanic force on the previous layer) you'll
only have to wait until the earlier layer doesn't run anymore but still is
a bit sticky. Hint: In that state, it will still accept fingerprints (gets
dull where you touch it) but you won't be able to move it or wash it away
with compressed air. That way, the layers will stick to each other best.
Don't overdo, stop spraying as soon as there is some gloss.
For paint rolling or brushing, you need to wait longer because you actually
touch the surface. Rolling (I don't recommend that for clear coat) will
mean almost a complete cure time (a day or so) for brushing few hours would
be OK (normal room temperature).
> How light do you apply the clearcoat?
Very light. Hint: More thin layers are better as one thick layer.
> Yes, I do enjoy learning from those that have had the experience and
> I'm not afraid to admit to it. Otherwise what's the point in being
> here?
Yup. Exactly. Probably you should first try your methods somewhere where
the learning curve won't hurt. Getting access to a spray gun (even if it is
a very cheap thing for around 40-50 bucks) and an air-compressor is an
invaluable thing. It will allow to apply much thinner layers, reducing cure
time and costs. Also there is less danger that you get ugly noses because
the paint was too thin or the amount too high.
In my opinion you should do a spray painting of clear coat as soon as you
plan to have stickers under it. It will simply give you a much flusher,
nicer surface. If you spray, you should pay great attention to a dust-free
room/location. I also did "outdoor stuff" and there seems to always be a
fly wanting to sit on fresh paint...
Good luck!
--
@: I N F O at B A R T H E L D dot N E T
3W: www .bartheld,net
Re: Help me find these bike parts
On Apr 30, 1:51 am, Volker Bartheld <dr vers...@freenet.de> >Fertan-
manual says, you should just rinse off
> the excess product and let dry.
How many times should the converter be applied? I read on some sites
that it works best if applied twice but not more than that. What do
you find works best?
>Actually, I would remove the rust as good as possible and
> leave a surface as smooth as possible. All water based rust converters will
> also work on naked metal
K, that's good to know even if it means a bit more elbow grease. As
you can see sanding that tank will require a lot of said grease. The
other part I'd like advice on is with the body filler and how it
should be applied along with the rust converter. I'm thinking that I'd
first sand it as best as possible and apply the converter. Then add
the body filler on top of it or should I apply the primer first and
then the body filler? Just wondering how well (or not so well) the
body filler would adhere to the converter. How would you go about
this?
>the litre of clear coat is arount 50-60EUR (30USD)
I wish. 50 Eur is US$80 and about the same in Can$. So I'm definitely
sticking to the Can$9 spray can. It may not harden as well but keeping
in mind that this is an old bike that will be happy to have a paint
job even if a half-assed one, it will more than suffice, even if it
scratches soon after. Seeing how the bike will be parked in a heated
underground parking garage I would hope that this would help it
harden. I could also (if it helps) heat it up a few times with a blow
dryer, like I did with the exhaust pipes and it seems to have cured
the paint a lot faster.
>Getting access to a spray gun (even if it is
> a very cheap thing for around 40-50 bucks) and an air compressor is an
> invaluable thing.
Not an option since I live in an apartment. Thankfully it has a
balcony so I should be able to spray it with the spray cans and bring
it inside to dry shortly after, as to avoid those bugs. This is the
reason why I can't do a proper job and need to find ways to work
within my (limited) environment. Even sanding it with a power tool
could prove to be a problem in my case due to the lack of a proper
work space.
I'm treating this project as a small challenge and I'm enjoying every
bit of it, especially as the bike looks so much better and also runs
so well now. I picked up this bike for very cheap as a trainer for the
wife, which is ideal seeing how it's a rare small bike for north
america. Part of the incentive is to keep costs down as I'd hate to
sink too much money on such an old bike. So cutting corners is way to
go, even if it means compromising on the end result. After all the
goal is to give the wife a bike that she doesn't have to be too
ashamed or seeing riding. So even a quick paint job to the tank would
mean a big improvement overall, as this is the sorest part of the
bike.
On Apr 30, 1:51 am, Volker Bartheld <dr vers...@freenet.de> >Fertan-
manual says, you should just rinse off
> the excess product and let dry.
How many times should the converter be applied? I read on some sites
that it works best if applied twice but not more than that. What do
you find works best?
>Actually, I would remove the rust as good as possible and
> leave a surface as smooth as possible. All water based rust converters will
> also work on naked metal
K, that's good to know even if it means a bit more elbow grease. As
you can see sanding that tank will require a lot of said grease. The
other part I'd like advice on is with the body filler and how it
should be applied along with the rust converter. I'm thinking that I'd
first sand it as best as possible and apply the converter. Then add
the body filler on top of it or should I apply the primer first and
then the body filler? Just wondering how well (or not so well) the
body filler would adhere to the converter. How would you go about
this?
>the litre of clear coat is arount 50-60EUR (30USD)
I wish. 50 Eur is US$80 and about the same in Can$. So I'm definitely
sticking to the Can$9 spray can. It may not harden as well but keeping
in mind that this is an old bike that will be happy to have a paint
job even if a half-assed one, it will more than suffice, even if it
scratches soon after. Seeing how the bike will be parked in a heated
underground parking garage I would hope that this would help it
harden. I could also (if it helps) heat it up a few times with a blow
dryer, like I did with the exhaust pipes and it seems to have cured
the paint a lot faster.
>Getting access to a spray gun (even if it is
> a very cheap thing for around 40-50 bucks) and an air compressor is an
> invaluable thing.
Not an option since I live in an apartment. Thankfully it has a
balcony so I should be able to spray it with the spray cans and bring
it inside to dry shortly after, as to avoid those bugs. This is the
reason why I can't do a proper job and need to find ways to work
within my (limited) environment. Even sanding it with a power tool
could prove to be a problem in my case due to the lack of a proper
work space.
I'm treating this project as a small challenge and I'm enjoying every
bit of it, especially as the bike looks so much better and also runs
so well now. I picked up this bike for very cheap as a trainer for the
wife, which is ideal seeing how it's a rare small bike for north
america. Part of the incentive is to keep costs down as I'd hate to
sink too much money on such an old bike. So cutting corners is way to
go, even if it means compromising on the end result. After all the
goal is to give the wife a bike that she doesn't have to be too
ashamed or seeing riding. So even a quick paint job to the tank would
mean a big improvement overall, as this is the sorest part of the
bike.
Re: Help me find these bike parts
Hi!
> How many times should the converter be applied?
I would say: As often as necessary (and until the rusted surface will have
an even black colour). Normally two thin layers are sufficient.
> the body filler and how it
> should be applied along with the rust converter. I'm thinking that I'd
> first sand it as best as possible and apply the converter. Then add
> the body filler on top of it or should I apply the primer first and
> then the body filler?
IMHO filler and primer are more or less the same chemistry, the filler is
just thicker (or even contains particles) to smooth scratches and stuff.
You should check the manual here. If the primer should go on the naked
metal (to aid in adhesion), then the primer should go first. I would
suggest, you ask the guy who sells you the stuff.
> Just wondering how well (or not so well) the
> body filler would adhere to the converter. How would you go about
> this?
Hrrrm. That's always the point. Sand or not sand the converter, how long to
wait until spraying the primer, take or not take filler, sand with what
grit afterwards, etc., etc. There's a lot of trial and error possibility
here and you should probably try with some demo part first.
> keeping
> in mind that this is an old bike that will be happy to have a paint
> job even if a half-assed one, it will more than suffice, even if it
> scratches soon after.
OK.
> Seeing how the bike will be parked in a heated
> underground parking garage I would hope that this would help it
> harden.
It sure will (heating chambers go up to 60°C!). There are also
possibilities to aid hardening with ultraviolet light. But of course the
chemistry must be prepared for this.
> I could also (if it helps) heat it up a few times with a blow
> dryer, like I did with the exhaust pipes and it seems to have cured
> the paint a lot faster.
But wait until the surface is dry. Otherwise it will get dull and probably
grow crinkles/dots/etc. That would suck.
> Not an option since I live in an apartment. Thankfully it has a
> balcony so I should be able to spray it with the spray cans and bring
> it inside to dry shortly after, as to avoid those bugs.
Well, I don't envy your neighbours... ;-) Everytime I did a paint job (n
the garage) the smell was pretty obvious.
> After all the goal is to give the wife a bike that she doesn't have to be
> too ashamed or seeing riding. So even a quick paint job to the tank
> would mean a big improvement overall, as this is the sorest part of the
> bike.
*LOL* But probably worth every second if you see the happy face (in case of
a success) of your wife aferwards! :-)
Good luck!
Volker
--
@: I N F O at B A R T H E L D dot N E T
3W: www .bartheld,net
Hi!
> How many times should the converter be applied?
I would say: As often as necessary (and until the rusted surface will have
an even black colour). Normally two thin layers are sufficient.
> the body filler and how it
> should be applied along with the rust converter. I'm thinking that I'd
> first sand it as best as possible and apply the converter. Then add
> the body filler on top of it or should I apply the primer first and
> then the body filler?
IMHO filler and primer are more or less the same chemistry, the filler is
just thicker (or even contains particles) to smooth scratches and stuff.
You should check the manual here. If the primer should go on the naked
metal (to aid in adhesion), then the primer should go first. I would
suggest, you ask the guy who sells you the stuff.
> Just wondering how well (or not so well) the
> body filler would adhere to the converter. How would you go about
> this?
Hrrrm. That's always the point. Sand or not sand the converter, how long to
wait until spraying the primer, take or not take filler, sand with what
grit afterwards, etc., etc. There's a lot of trial and error possibility
here and you should probably try with some demo part first.
> keeping
> in mind that this is an old bike that will be happy to have a paint
> job even if a half-assed one, it will more than suffice, even if it
> scratches soon after.
OK.
> Seeing how the bike will be parked in a heated
> underground parking garage I would hope that this would help it
> harden.
It sure will (heating chambers go up to 60°C!). There are also
possibilities to aid hardening with ultraviolet light. But of course the
chemistry must be prepared for this.
> I could also (if it helps) heat it up a few times with a blow
> dryer, like I did with the exhaust pipes and it seems to have cured
> the paint a lot faster.
But wait until the surface is dry. Otherwise it will get dull and probably
grow crinkles/dots/etc. That would suck.
> Not an option since I live in an apartment. Thankfully it has a
> balcony so I should be able to spray it with the spray cans and bring
> it inside to dry shortly after, as to avoid those bugs.
Well, I don't envy your neighbours... ;-) Everytime I did a paint job (n
the garage) the smell was pretty obvious.
> After all the goal is to give the wife a bike that she doesn't have to be
> too ashamed or seeing riding. So even a quick paint job to the tank
> would mean a big improvement overall, as this is the sorest part of the
> bike.
*LOL* But probably worth every second if you see the happy face (in case of
a success) of your wife aferwards! :-)
Good luck!
Volker
--
@: I N F O at B A R T H E L D dot N E T
3W: www .bartheld,net
