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Brazing questions (don't laugh)
Brazing questions (don't laugh)
So I've read that the best way to fill a small dent in my son's
bicycle frame is to braze in brass. Now, I've never done this before
but I'm also advised to use low heat to avoid weakening the structural
integrity of the frame's tubing.
Questions:
1) can I use my propane (v) torch to do this?
( * w w w .bernzomatic . com /bernzomatic/consumer/jhtml/detail.jhtml?prodId=BernzoProd100026)
2) what sort of brass should I look for and where?
3) is this beyond novice skill level?
4) anything else to know?
I've also heard that I could use lead, and I'm pretty sure I could
melt some fishing sinkers into the dent using my propane torch, but
brass is supposed to be better (should we ever want to have the frame
powder coated or chrome plated). So I'd like to use brass, but if it's
too difficult I'll probably just go with lead since our intention now
is just to prime and repaint.
Fred Bradford - CrashTestDummy
fjbradfordREMOVE@tx.rr . com
So I've read that the best way to fill a small dent in my son's
bicycle frame is to braze in brass. Now, I've never done this before
but I'm also advised to use low heat to avoid weakening the structural
integrity of the frame's tubing.
Questions:
1) can I use my propane (v) torch to do this?
( * w w w .bernzomatic . com /bernzomatic/consumer/jhtml/detail.jhtml?prodId=BernzoProd100026)
2) what sort of brass should I look for and where?
3) is this beyond novice skill level?
4) anything else to know?
I've also heard that I could use lead, and I'm pretty sure I could
melt some fishing sinkers into the dent using my propane torch, but
brass is supposed to be better (should we ever want to have the frame
powder coated or chrome plated). So I'd like to use brass, but if it's
too difficult I'll probably just go with lead since our intention now
is just to prime and repaint.
Fred Bradford - CrashTestDummy
fjbradfordREMOVE@tx.rr . com
Re: Brazing questions (don't laugh)
On Apr 28, 6:08 pm, CrashTestDummy <FBRADFORDrem...@tx.rr . com > wrote:
> So I've read that the best way to fill a small dent in my son's
> bicycle frame is to braze in brass. Now, I've never done this before
> but I'm also advised to use low heat to avoid weakening the structural
> integrity of the frame's tubing.
>
> Questions:
>
> 1) can I use my propane (v) torch to do this?
> ( * w w w .bernzomatic . com /bernzomatic/consumer/jhtml/detail.jhtml?pr...)=
>
> 2) what sort of brass should I look for and where?
>
> 3) is this beyond novice skill level?
>
> 4) anything else to know?
>
> I've also heard that I could use lead, and I'm pretty sure I could
> melt some fishing sinkers into the dent using my propane torch, but
> brass is supposed to be better (should we ever want to have the frame
> powder coated or chrome plated). So I'd like to use brass, but if it's
> too difficult I'll probably just go with lead since our intention now
> is just to prime and repaint.
>
> Fred Bradford - CrashTestDummy
> fjbradfordREM...@tx.rr . com
Use this with MAPP gas it burns considerably hotter. I don't think you
can get the plain jane propane model like you have hot enough.
* w w w .bernzomatic . com /bernzomatic/consumer/jhtml/detail.jhtml?prodId==
BernzoProd100025
I have brazed with it when a regular propane torch would not get hot
enough.
Practice on some junk stuff to get a feel of it then go for it. You
can find brass rod at any home depot type store.
-Dave-
On Apr 28, 6:08 pm, CrashTestDummy <FBRADFORDrem...@tx.rr . com > wrote:
> So I've read that the best way to fill a small dent in my son's
> bicycle frame is to braze in brass. Now, I've never done this before
> but I'm also advised to use low heat to avoid weakening the structural
> integrity of the frame's tubing.
>
> Questions:
>
> 1) can I use my propane (v) torch to do this?
> ( * w w w .bernzomatic . com /bernzomatic/consumer/jhtml/detail.jhtml?pr...)=
>
> 2) what sort of brass should I look for and where?
>
> 3) is this beyond novice skill level?
>
> 4) anything else to know?
>
> I've also heard that I could use lead, and I'm pretty sure I could
> melt some fishing sinkers into the dent using my propane torch, but
> brass is supposed to be better (should we ever want to have the frame
> powder coated or chrome plated). So I'd like to use brass, but if it's
> too difficult I'll probably just go with lead since our intention now
> is just to prime and repaint.
>
> Fred Bradford - CrashTestDummy
> fjbradfordREM...@tx.rr . com
Use this with MAPP gas it burns considerably hotter. I don't think you
can get the plain jane propane model like you have hot enough.
* w w w .bernzomatic . com /bernzomatic/consumer/jhtml/detail.jhtml?prodId==
BernzoProd100025
I have brazed with it when a regular propane torch would not get hot
enough.
Practice on some junk stuff to get a feel of it then go for it. You
can find brass rod at any home depot type store.
-Dave-
Re: Brazing questions (don't laugh)
On Apr 28, 8:27 pm, Dave Spark...@msn . com wrote:
> On Apr 28, 6:08 pm, CrashTestDummy <FBRADFORDrem...@tx.rr . com > wrote:
>
>
>
>
>
> > So I've read that the best way to fill a small dent in my son's
> > bicycle frame is to braze in brass. Now, I've never done this before
> > but I'm also advised to use low heat to avoid weakening the structural
> > integrity of the frame's tubing.
>
> > Questions:
>
> > 1) can I use my propane (v) torch to do this?
> > ( * w w w .bernzomatic . com /bernzomatic/consumer/jhtml/detail.jhtml?pr..=
.)
>
> > 2) what sort of brass should I look for and where?
>
> > 3) is this beyond novice skill level?
>
> > 4) anything else to know?
>
> > I've also heard that I could use lead, and I'm pretty sure I coul=
d
> > melt some fishing sinkers into the dent using my propane torch, but
> > brass is supposed to be better (should we ever want to have the frame
> > powder coated or chrome plated). So I'd like to use brass, but if it's
> > too difficult I'll probably just go with lead since our intention now
> > is just to prime and repaint.
>
> > Fred Bradford - CrashTestDummy
> > fjbradfordREM...@tx.rr . com
>
> Use this with MAPP gas it burns considerably hotter. I don't think you
> can get the plain jane propane model like you have hot enough.
>
> * w w w .bernzomatic . com /bernzomatic/consumer/jhtml/detail.jhtml?pr...
>
> I have brazed with it when a regular propane torch would not get hot
> enough.
>
> Practice on some junk stuff to get a feel of it then go for it. You
> can find brass rod at any home depot type store.
>
> -Dave-- Hide quoted text -
>
> - Show quoted text -
What about silver soilder (kind of like lead I guess)?
On Apr 28, 8:27 pm, Dave Spark...@msn . com wrote:
> On Apr 28, 6:08 pm, CrashTestDummy <FBRADFORDrem...@tx.rr . com > wrote:
>
>
>
>
>
> > So I've read that the best way to fill a small dent in my son's
> > bicycle frame is to braze in brass. Now, I've never done this before
> > but I'm also advised to use low heat to avoid weakening the structural
> > integrity of the frame's tubing.
>
> > Questions:
>
> > 1) can I use my propane (v) torch to do this?
> > ( * w w w .bernzomatic . com /bernzomatic/consumer/jhtml/detail.jhtml?pr..=
.)
>
> > 2) what sort of brass should I look for and where?
>
> > 3) is this beyond novice skill level?
>
> > 4) anything else to know?
>
> > I've also heard that I could use lead, and I'm pretty sure I coul=
d
> > melt some fishing sinkers into the dent using my propane torch, but
> > brass is supposed to be better (should we ever want to have the frame
> > powder coated or chrome plated). So I'd like to use brass, but if it's
> > too difficult I'll probably just go with lead since our intention now
> > is just to prime and repaint.
>
> > Fred Bradford - CrashTestDummy
> > fjbradfordREM...@tx.rr . com
>
> Use this with MAPP gas it burns considerably hotter. I don't think you
> can get the plain jane propane model like you have hot enough.
>
> * w w w .bernzomatic . com /bernzomatic/consumer/jhtml/detail.jhtml?pr...
>
> I have brazed with it when a regular propane torch would not get hot
> enough.
>
> Practice on some junk stuff to get a feel of it then go for it. You
> can find brass rod at any home depot type store.
>
> -Dave-- Hide quoted text -
>
> - Show quoted text -
What about silver soilder (kind of like lead I guess)?
Re: Brazing questions (don't laugh)
>
> What about silver soilder (kind of like lead I guess)?
What about bondo?
Or just paint over the dent?
--
Charles
'99 YZ250
>
> What about silver soilder (kind of like lead I guess)?
What about bondo?
Or just paint over the dent?
--
Charles
'99 YZ250
Re: Brazing questions (don't laugh)
On Mon, 28 Apr 2008 19:19:18 -0700, HardWorkingDog <harvey@mush.man>
wrote:
>
>>
>> What about silver soilder (kind of like lead I guess)?
>
>What about bondo?
>
>Or just paint over the dent?
D'oh!!!
(Charles has no appreciation of BMX bikes. He'll scrub the spoke
nipples on his YZ though ;-)
Fred Bradford - CrashTestDummy
fjbradfordREMOVE@tx.rr . com
On Mon, 28 Apr 2008 19:19:18 -0700, HardWorkingDog <harvey@mush.man>
wrote:
>
>>
>> What about silver soilder (kind of like lead I guess)?
>
>What about bondo?
>
>Or just paint over the dent?
D'oh!!!
(Charles has no appreciation of BMX bikes. He'll scrub the spoke
nipples on his YZ though ;-)
Fred Bradford - CrashTestDummy
fjbradfordREMOVE@tx.rr . com
Re: Brazing questions (don't laugh)
On Mon, 28 Apr 2008 19:12:51 -0700 (PDT), dsc-ky
<Dudley.Cornman@eku.edu> wrote:
>What about silver soilder (kind of like lead I guess)?
Excellent idea, Dudley! Why is it so excellent, you ask? Well,
because I already have some silver solder that I inherited when my dad
passed away! Dunno why I didn't think of that! Thanks!
Fred Bradford - CrashTestDummy
fjbradfordREMOVE@tx.rr . com
On Mon, 28 Apr 2008 19:12:51 -0700 (PDT), dsc-ky
<Dudley.Cornman@eku.edu> wrote:
>What about silver soilder (kind of like lead I guess)?
Excellent idea, Dudley! Why is it so excellent, you ask? Well,
because I already have some silver solder that I inherited when my dad
passed away! Dunno why I didn't think of that! Thanks!
Fred Bradford - CrashTestDummy
fjbradfordREMOVE@tx.rr . com
Re: Brazing questions (don't laugh)
On Mon, 28 Apr 2008 17:27:05 -0700 (PDT), Dave_Sparkman@msn . com wrote:
>Use this with MAPP gas it burns considerably hotter. I don't think you
>can get the plain jane propane model like you have hot enough.
>
> * w w w .bernzomatic . com /bernzomatic/consumer/jhtml/detail.jhtml?prodId=BernzoProd100025
>
>I have brazed with it when a regular propane torch would not get hot
>enough.
>
>Practice on some junk stuff to get a feel of it then go for it. You
>can find brass rod at any home depot type store.
>
>-Dave-
Thanks Dave. I couldn't get the link to work (even copying and
pasting it), but I saw the MAPP torches at Home Depot. Question
though: can I just buy a MAPP (the yellow bottle) cylinder and use my
existing propane trigger/nozzle assembly on it?
Fred Bradford - CrashTestDummy
fjbradfordREMOVE@tx.rr . com
On Mon, 28 Apr 2008 17:27:05 -0700 (PDT), Dave_Sparkman@msn . com wrote:
>Use this with MAPP gas it burns considerably hotter. I don't think you
>can get the plain jane propane model like you have hot enough.
>
> * w w w .bernzomatic . com /bernzomatic/consumer/jhtml/detail.jhtml?prodId=BernzoProd100025
>
>I have brazed with it when a regular propane torch would not get hot
>enough.
>
>Practice on some junk stuff to get a feel of it then go for it. You
>can find brass rod at any home depot type store.
>
>-Dave-
Thanks Dave. I couldn't get the link to work (even copying and
pasting it), but I saw the MAPP torches at Home Depot. Question
though: can I just buy a MAPP (the yellow bottle) cylinder and use my
existing propane trigger/nozzle assembly on it?
Fred Bradford - CrashTestDummy
fjbradfordREMOVE@tx.rr . com
Re: Brazing questions (don't laugh)
fred,
you can call me tomorrow when i'm @ work...
we're in the middle of a brazing job at the shop right now for some
newclearair stuff the goberment wants... yep they wanted the fancy filler
stuff with the silver in it... yep i'm putting an additional 10k into the
job that normally isn't required... basically get the parts clean, then hot
then melt some softer (lower melting temp metal into the spot you want
filled) soldering is <800 deg, brazing is >800 deg but still lower than the
melting point of the metals you're joining. brass is a good filler for most
stuff... lead (old school plumbers solder) is good for thinner metal you
might melt by mistake...
be sure to get the flux off after you braze... it will eat away at the metal
if left on...
usually after brazing you hit it with a hose or dunk it to help get the flux
residue off. then brush the remaining flakes off.. next you can pickle it
(acid wash) then rinse
hangon.. searching...
* w w w .aws.org/wj/amwelder/9-00/fundamentals.html
this looks good a welder site talking about brazing...
john
---
°¿°
V
"CrashTestDummy" <FBRADFORDremove@tx.rr . com > wrote in message
news:aroc149svhqe60abmsf8kotvh22hn758js@4ax . com ...
>
> So I've read that the best way to fill a small dent in my son's
> bicycle frame is to braze in brass. Now, I've never done this before
> but I'm also advised to use low heat to avoid weakening the structural
> integrity of the frame's tubing.
>
> Questions:
>
> 1) can I use my propane (v) torch to do this?
>
( * w w w .bernzomatic . com /bernzomatic/consumer/jhtml/detail.jhtml?prodId=B
ernzoProd100026)
>
> 2) what sort of brass should I look for and where?
>
> 3) is this beyond novice skill level?
>
> 4) anything else to know?
>
> I've also heard that I could use lead, and I'm pretty sure I could
> melt some fishing sinkers into the dent using my propane torch, but
> brass is supposed to be better (should we ever want to have the frame
> powder coated or chrome plated). So I'd like to use brass, but if it's
> too difficult I'll probably just go with lead since our intention now
> is just to prime and repaint.
>
>
> Fred Bradford - CrashTestDummy
> fjbradfordREMOVE@tx.rr . com
fred,
you can call me tomorrow when i'm @ work...
we're in the middle of a brazing job at the shop right now for some
newclearair stuff the goberment wants... yep they wanted the fancy filler
stuff with the silver in it... yep i'm putting an additional 10k into the
job that normally isn't required... basically get the parts clean, then hot
then melt some softer (lower melting temp metal into the spot you want
filled) soldering is <800 deg, brazing is >800 deg but still lower than the
melting point of the metals you're joining. brass is a good filler for most
stuff... lead (old school plumbers solder) is good for thinner metal you
might melt by mistake...
be sure to get the flux off after you braze... it will eat away at the metal
if left on...
usually after brazing you hit it with a hose or dunk it to help get the flux
residue off. then brush the remaining flakes off.. next you can pickle it
(acid wash) then rinse
hangon.. searching...
* w w w .aws.org/wj/amwelder/9-00/fundamentals.html
this looks good a welder site talking about brazing...
john
---
°¿°
V
"CrashTestDummy" <FBRADFORDremove@tx.rr . com > wrote in message
news:aroc149svhqe60abmsf8kotvh22hn758js@4ax . com ...
>
> So I've read that the best way to fill a small dent in my son's
> bicycle frame is to braze in brass. Now, I've never done this before
> but I'm also advised to use low heat to avoid weakening the structural
> integrity of the frame's tubing.
>
> Questions:
>
> 1) can I use my propane (v) torch to do this?
>
( * w w w .bernzomatic . com /bernzomatic/consumer/jhtml/detail.jhtml?prodId=B
ernzoProd100026)
>
> 2) what sort of brass should I look for and where?
>
> 3) is this beyond novice skill level?
>
> 4) anything else to know?
>
> I've also heard that I could use lead, and I'm pretty sure I could
> melt some fishing sinkers into the dent using my propane torch, but
> brass is supposed to be better (should we ever want to have the frame
> powder coated or chrome plated). So I'd like to use brass, but if it's
> too difficult I'll probably just go with lead since our intention now
> is just to prime and repaint.
>
>
> Fred Bradford - CrashTestDummy
> fjbradfordREMOVE@tx.rr . com
Re: Brazing questions (don't laugh)
On Tue, 29 Apr 2008 02:54:53 GMT, "john" <johnrSNIPmd@gmailTUCK.con>
wrote:
>fred,
>you can call me tomorrow when i'm @ work...
>we're in the middle of a brazing job at the shop right now for some
>newclearair stuff the goberment wants... yep they wanted the fancy filler
>stuff with the silver in it... yep i'm putting an additional 10k into the
>job that normally isn't required... basically get the parts clean, then hot
>then melt some softer (lower melting temp metal into the spot you want
>filled) soldering is <800 deg, brazing is >800 deg but still lower than the
>melting point of the metals you're joining. brass is a good filler for most
>stuff... lead (old school plumbers solder) is good for thinner metal you
>might melt by mistake...
>be sure to get the flux off after you braze... it will eat away at the metal
>if left on...
>usually after brazing you hit it with a hose or dunk it to help get the flux
>residue off. then brush the remaining flakes off.. next you can pickle it
>(acid wash) then rinse
>
>hangon.. searching...
> * w w w .aws.org/wj/amwelder/9-00/fundamentals.html
>this looks good a welder site talking about brazing...
>john
>---
Awesome, thanks for the info, John. I read that entire article and
I think I have a pretty good idea now. But when you say "acid wash,"
what sort of acid are we talking about? Anything that the typical home
user might have laying around? Hand sanding won't remove the flux
residue?
Fred Bradford - CrashTestDummy
fjbradfordREMOVE@tx.rr . com
On Tue, 29 Apr 2008 02:54:53 GMT, "john" <johnrSNIPmd@gmailTUCK.con>
wrote:
>fred,
>you can call me tomorrow when i'm @ work...
>we're in the middle of a brazing job at the shop right now for some
>newclearair stuff the goberment wants... yep they wanted the fancy filler
>stuff with the silver in it... yep i'm putting an additional 10k into the
>job that normally isn't required... basically get the parts clean, then hot
>then melt some softer (lower melting temp metal into the spot you want
>filled) soldering is <800 deg, brazing is >800 deg but still lower than the
>melting point of the metals you're joining. brass is a good filler for most
>stuff... lead (old school plumbers solder) is good for thinner metal you
>might melt by mistake...
>be sure to get the flux off after you braze... it will eat away at the metal
>if left on...
>usually after brazing you hit it with a hose or dunk it to help get the flux
>residue off. then brush the remaining flakes off.. next you can pickle it
>(acid wash) then rinse
>
>hangon.. searching...
> * w w w .aws.org/wj/amwelder/9-00/fundamentals.html
>this looks good a welder site talking about brazing...
>john
>---
Awesome, thanks for the info, John. I read that entire article and
I think I have a pretty good idea now. But when you say "acid wash,"
what sort of acid are we talking about? Anything that the typical home
user might have laying around? Hand sanding won't remove the flux
residue?
Fred Bradford - CrashTestDummy
fjbradfordREMOVE@tx.rr . com
Re: Brazing questions (don't laugh)
nitric acid is cheep.... 10% solution
hydrofluoric is a bit more of a hassle we use 2-3% nasty stuff
the sanding off will work fine, heck you could probably use an orange to
clean it with, then rinse... the idea is to get all the flux off the part
after your done and also use the acid to eat away any fresh exposed iron so
as to eliminate the quick rusting if you sand the area smooth then wash it
then paint it you should be fine.
silver solder is pretty gosh darn strong... that might flow easier & you
won't have the icky chemical/metals to deal with...
"CrashTestDummy" <FBRADFORDremove@tx.rr . com > wrote in message
news:f25d14t4ebaobsdl5e3d10asbpum56rm7m@4ax . com ...
> On Tue, 29 Apr 2008 02:54:53 GMT, "john" <johnrSNIPmd@gmailTUCK.con>
> wrote:
>
>>fred,
>>you can call me tomorrow when i'm @ work...
>>we're in the middle of a brazing job at the shop right now for some
>>newclearair stuff the goberment wants... yep they wanted the fancy filler
>>stuff with the silver in it... yep i'm putting an additional 10k into the
>>job that normally isn't required... basically get the parts clean, then
>>hot
>>then melt some softer (lower melting temp metal into the spot you want
>>filled) soldering is <800 deg, brazing is >800 deg but still lower than
>>the
>>melting point of the metals you're joining. brass is a good filler for
>>most
>>stuff... lead (old school plumbers solder) is good for thinner metal you
>>might melt by mistake...
>>be sure to get the flux off after you braze... it will eat away at the
>>metal
>>if left on...
>>usually after brazing you hit it with a hose or dunk it to help get the
>>flux
>>residue off. then brush the remaining flakes off.. next you can pickle it
>>(acid wash) then rinse
>>
>>hangon.. searching...
>> * w w w .aws.org/wj/amwelder/9-00/fundamentals.html
>>this looks good a welder site talking about brazing...
>>john
>>---
>
> Awesome, thanks for the info, John. I read that entire article and
> I think I have a pretty good idea now. But when you say "acid wash,"
> what sort of acid are we talking about? Anything that the typical home
> user might have laying around? Hand sanding won't remove the flux
> residue?
>
>
> Fred Bradford - CrashTestDummy
> fjbradfordREMOVE@tx.rr . com
nitric acid is cheep.... 10% solution
hydrofluoric is a bit more of a hassle we use 2-3% nasty stuff
the sanding off will work fine, heck you could probably use an orange to
clean it with, then rinse... the idea is to get all the flux off the part
after your done and also use the acid to eat away any fresh exposed iron so
as to eliminate the quick rusting if you sand the area smooth then wash it
then paint it you should be fine.
silver solder is pretty gosh darn strong... that might flow easier & you
won't have the icky chemical/metals to deal with...
"CrashTestDummy" <FBRADFORDremove@tx.rr . com > wrote in message
news:f25d14t4ebaobsdl5e3d10asbpum56rm7m@4ax . com ...
> On Tue, 29 Apr 2008 02:54:53 GMT, "john" <johnrSNIPmd@gmailTUCK.con>
> wrote:
>
>>fred,
>>you can call me tomorrow when i'm @ work...
>>we're in the middle of a brazing job at the shop right now for some
>>newclearair stuff the goberment wants... yep they wanted the fancy filler
>>stuff with the silver in it... yep i'm putting an additional 10k into the
>>job that normally isn't required... basically get the parts clean, then
>>hot
>>then melt some softer (lower melting temp metal into the spot you want
>>filled) soldering is <800 deg, brazing is >800 deg but still lower than
>>the
>>melting point of the metals you're joining. brass is a good filler for
>>most
>>stuff... lead (old school plumbers solder) is good for thinner metal you
>>might melt by mistake...
>>be sure to get the flux off after you braze... it will eat away at the
>>metal
>>if left on...
>>usually after brazing you hit it with a hose or dunk it to help get the
>>flux
>>residue off. then brush the remaining flakes off.. next you can pickle it
>>(acid wash) then rinse
>>
>>hangon.. searching...
>> * w w w .aws.org/wj/amwelder/9-00/fundamentals.html
>>this looks good a welder site talking about brazing...
>>john
>>---
>
> Awesome, thanks for the info, John. I read that entire article and
> I think I have a pretty good idea now. But when you say "acid wash,"
> what sort of acid are we talking about? Anything that the typical home
> user might have laying around? Hand sanding won't remove the flux
> residue?
>
>
> Fred Bradford - CrashTestDummy
> fjbradfordREMOVE@tx.rr . com
Re: Brazing questions (don't laugh)
On Mon, 28 Apr 2008 19:08:22 -0500, CrashTestDummy
<FBRADFORDremove@tx.rr . com > wrote:
>
> So I've read that the best way to fill a small dent in my son's
>bicycle frame is to braze in brass. Now, I've never done this before
>but I'm also advised to use low heat to avoid weakening the structural
>integrity of the frame's tubing.
>
>Questions:
>
>1) can I use my propane (v) torch to do this?
>( * w w w .bernzomatic . com /bernzomatic/consumer/jhtml/detail.jhtml?prodId=BernzoProd100026)
>
>2) what sort of brass should I look for and where?
>
>3) is this beyond novice skill level?
>
>4) anything else to know?
>
> I've also heard that I could use lead, and I'm pretty sure I could
>melt some fishing sinkers into the dent using my propane torch, but
>brass is supposed to be better (should we ever want to have the frame
>powder coated or chrome plated). So I'd like to use brass, but if it's
>too difficult I'll probably just go with lead since our intention now
>is just to prime and repaint.
>
>
>Fred Bradford - CrashTestDummy
>fjbradfordREMOVE@tx.rr . com
In that case, just fill it with epoxy.
Mike Baxter
On Mon, 28 Apr 2008 19:08:22 -0500, CrashTestDummy
<FBRADFORDremove@tx.rr . com > wrote:
>
> So I've read that the best way to fill a small dent in my son's
>bicycle frame is to braze in brass. Now, I've never done this before
>but I'm also advised to use low heat to avoid weakening the structural
>integrity of the frame's tubing.
>
>Questions:
>
>1) can I use my propane (v) torch to do this?
>( * w w w .bernzomatic . com /bernzomatic/consumer/jhtml/detail.jhtml?prodId=BernzoProd100026)
>
>2) what sort of brass should I look for and where?
>
>3) is this beyond novice skill level?
>
>4) anything else to know?
>
> I've also heard that I could use lead, and I'm pretty sure I could
>melt some fishing sinkers into the dent using my propane torch, but
>brass is supposed to be better (should we ever want to have the frame
>powder coated or chrome plated). So I'd like to use brass, but if it's
>too difficult I'll probably just go with lead since our intention now
>is just to prime and repaint.
>
>
>Fred Bradford - CrashTestDummy
>fjbradfordREMOVE@tx.rr . com
In that case, just fill it with epoxy.
Mike Baxter
Re: Brazing questions (don't laugh)
> In that case, just fill it with epoxy.
Bingo. Sounds like a perfect job for a blob of JB Weld. And WD40.
Mmmm, getting hungry just thinking about it...
JayC
> In that case, just fill it with epoxy.
Bingo. Sounds like a perfect job for a blob of JB Weld. And WD40.
Mmmm, getting hungry just thinking about it...
JayC
Re: Brazing questions (don't laugh)
On Apr 28, 7:08=EF=BF=BDpm, CrashTestDummy <FBRADFORDrem...@tx.rr . com > wrote=
:
> =EF=BF=BD =EF=BF=BDSo I've read that the best way to fill a small dent in =
my son's
> bicycle frame is to braze in brass. Now, I've never done this before
> but I'm also advised to use low heat to avoid weakening the structural
> integrity of the frame's tubing.
>
> Questions:
>
> 1) can I use my propane (v) torch to do this?
> ( * w w w .bernzomatic . com /bernzomatic/consumer/jhtml/detail.jhtml?pr...)=
>
> 2) what sort of brass should I look for and where?
>
> 3) is this beyond novice skill level?
>
> 4) anything else to know?
>
> =EF=BF=BD =EF=BF=BDI've also heard that I could use lead, and I'm pretty s=
ure I could
> melt some fishing sinkers into the dent using my propane torch, but
> brass is supposed to be better (should we ever want to have the frame
> powder coated or chrome plated). So I'd like to use brass, but if it's
> too difficult I'll probably just go with lead since our intention now
> is just to prime and repaint.
>
> Fred Bradford - CrashTestDummy
> fjbradfordREM...@tx.rr . com
On Apr 28, 7:08=EF=BF=BDpm, CrashTestDummy <FBRADFORDrem...@tx.rr . com > wrote=
:
> =EF=BF=BD =EF=BF=BDSo I've read that the best way to fill a small dent in =
my son's
> bicycle frame is to braze in brass. Now, I've never done this before
> but I'm also advised to use low heat to avoid weakening the structural
> integrity of the frame's tubing.
>
> Questions:
>
> 1) can I use my propane (v) torch to do this?
> ( * w w w .bernzomatic . com /bernzomatic/consumer/jhtml/detail.jhtml?pr...)=
>
> 2) what sort of brass should I look for and where?
>
> 3) is this beyond novice skill level?
>
> 4) anything else to know?
>
> =EF=BF=BD =EF=BF=BDI've also heard that I could use lead, and I'm pretty s=
ure I could
> melt some fishing sinkers into the dent using my propane torch, but
> brass is supposed to be better (should we ever want to have the frame
> powder coated or chrome plated). So I'd like to use brass, but if it's
> too difficult I'll probably just go with lead since our intention now
> is just to prime and repaint.
>
> Fred Bradford - CrashTestDummy
> fjbradfordREM...@tx.rr . com
Re: Brazing questions (don't laugh)
On Apr 28, 7:08=EF=BF=BDpm, CrashTestDummy <FBRADFORDrem...@tx.rr . com > wrote=
:
> =EF=BF=BD =EF=BF=BDSo I've read that the best way to fill a small dent in =
my son's
> bicycle frame is to braze in brass. Now, I've never done this before
> but I'm also advised to use low heat to avoid weakening the structural
> integrity of the frame's tubing.
>
> Questions:
>
> 1) can I use my propane (v) torch to do this?
> ( * w w w .bernzomatic . com /bernzomatic/consumer/jhtml/detail.jhtml?pr...)=
>
> 2) what sort of brass should I look for and where?
>
> 3) is this beyond novice skill level?
>
> 4) anything else to know?
>
> =EF=BF=BD =EF=BF=BDI've also heard that I could use lead, and I'm pretty s=
ure I could
> melt some fishing sinkers into the dent using my propane torch, but
> brass is supposed to be better (should we ever want to have the frame
> powder coated or chrome plated). So I'd like to use brass, but if it's
> too difficult I'll probably just go with lead since our intention now
> is just to prime and repaint.
>
> Fred Bradford - CrashTestDummy
> fjbradfordREM...@tx.rr . com
By the time you learn to braze, the cost to go buy a MAPP set and
rods, you could find a guy locally (think muffler shop) to do it for
you if you have it all prepped ( paint removed, cleaned and such).
Then take it home and file. grind or whatever to get it flush/even/
level. He'll probably do a better job anyway.
And I thought I was a tight-ass. :-)
Hank <~~~Can't braze either
On Apr 28, 7:08=EF=BF=BDpm, CrashTestDummy <FBRADFORDrem...@tx.rr . com > wrote=
:
> =EF=BF=BD =EF=BF=BDSo I've read that the best way to fill a small dent in =
my son's
> bicycle frame is to braze in brass. Now, I've never done this before
> but I'm also advised to use low heat to avoid weakening the structural
> integrity of the frame's tubing.
>
> Questions:
>
> 1) can I use my propane (v) torch to do this?
> ( * w w w .bernzomatic . com /bernzomatic/consumer/jhtml/detail.jhtml?pr...)=
>
> 2) what sort of brass should I look for and where?
>
> 3) is this beyond novice skill level?
>
> 4) anything else to know?
>
> =EF=BF=BD =EF=BF=BDI've also heard that I could use lead, and I'm pretty s=
ure I could
> melt some fishing sinkers into the dent using my propane torch, but
> brass is supposed to be better (should we ever want to have the frame
> powder coated or chrome plated). So I'd like to use brass, but if it's
> too difficult I'll probably just go with lead since our intention now
> is just to prime and repaint.
>
> Fred Bradford - CrashTestDummy
> fjbradfordREM...@tx.rr . com
By the time you learn to braze, the cost to go buy a MAPP set and
rods, you could find a guy locally (think muffler shop) to do it for
you if you have it all prepped ( paint removed, cleaned and such).
Then take it home and file. grind or whatever to get it flush/even/
level. He'll probably do a better job anyway.
And I thought I was a tight-ass. :-)
Hank <~~~Can't braze either
Re: Brazing questions (don't laugh)
On Tue, 29 Apr 2008 03:20:17 -0700 (PDT), "Hustlin' Hank"
<ninebal310@aol . com > wrote:
>
>By the time you learn to braze, the cost to go buy a MAPP set and
>rods, you could find a guy locally (think muffler shop) to do it for
>you if you have it all prepped ( paint removed, cleaned and such).
>Then take it home and file. grind or whatever to get it flush/even/
>level. He'll probably do a better job anyway.
>
>And I thought I was a tight-ass. :-)
>
>Hank <~~~Can't braze either
Bwhahaha! In this instance it's probably as much about wanting to
learn something new as saving a dollar. I mean, my brother could
probably turn the heat down on his mig and just fill the dent with
weld for me if I wanted him to, but I like being independent. Being
equipped for, and learning to, braze a small project now may allow me
to be more independant in the future. I don't plan to do a *bunch* of
brazing though, so buying a big torch is impractical. A MAPP cylinder
isn't too radical though.
Fred Bradford - CrashTestDummy
fjbradfordREMOVE@tx.rr . com
On Tue, 29 Apr 2008 03:20:17 -0700 (PDT), "Hustlin' Hank"
<ninebal310@aol . com > wrote:
>
>By the time you learn to braze, the cost to go buy a MAPP set and
>rods, you could find a guy locally (think muffler shop) to do it for
>you if you have it all prepped ( paint removed, cleaned and such).
>Then take it home and file. grind or whatever to get it flush/even/
>level. He'll probably do a better job anyway.
>
>And I thought I was a tight-ass. :-)
>
>Hank <~~~Can't braze either
Bwhahaha! In this instance it's probably as much about wanting to
learn something new as saving a dollar. I mean, my brother could
probably turn the heat down on his mig and just fill the dent with
weld for me if I wanted him to, but I like being independent. Being
equipped for, and learning to, braze a small project now may allow me
to be more independant in the future. I don't plan to do a *bunch* of
brazing though, so buying a big torch is impractical. A MAPP cylinder
isn't too radical though.
Fred Bradford - CrashTestDummy
fjbradfordREMOVE@tx.rr . com
