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Sticky throttle
Re: Sticky throttle
"Craig" <googlegroupmail@yahoo,com > wrote in message
news:6b58b89d-e0d0-42f8-9c8f-19db9443b675@d77g2000hsb.googlegroups,com ...
> It probably has only a few hundred miles on it as it was pulled for an
> aftermarket carb when the bike was still new. It's missing the pin for
> the float and the screws for the top. Otherwise I think it's all
> there.
Oooohhhh... Thanks man. No big rush. There's a ride for you if you're
ever in Colorado.
Wrestling the carb in and out of the 650L is one of my least favorite jobs.
-Jeff-
"Craig" <googlegroupmail@yahoo,com > wrote in message
news:6b58b89d-e0d0-42f8-9c8f-19db9443b675@d77g2000hsb.googlegroups,com ...
> It probably has only a few hundred miles on it as it was pulled for an
> aftermarket carb when the bike was still new. It's missing the pin for
> the float and the screws for the top. Otherwise I think it's all
> there.
Oooohhhh... Thanks man. No big rush. There's a ride for you if you're
ever in Colorado.
Wrestling the carb in and out of the 650L is one of my least favorite jobs.
-Jeff-
Re: Sticky throttle
On May 14, 5:44 pm, "HellSickle" <jldnospamee...@comcast.spammer,net >
wrote:
> "Craig" <googlegroupm...@yahoo,com > wrote in message
>
> news:6b58b89d-e0d0-42f8-9c8f-19db9443b675@d77g2000hsb.googlegroups,com ...
>
> > It probably has only a few hundred miles on it as it was pulled for an
> > aftermarket carb when the bike was still new. It's missing the pin for
> > the float and the screws for the top. Otherwise I think it's all
> > there.
>
> Oooohhhh... Thanks man. No big rush. There's a ride for you if you're
> ever in Colorado.
>
> Wrestling the carb in and out of the 650L is one of my least favorite jobs.
>
> -Jeff-
You mean, after you remove the hoses, the throttle cable holder, the
oil seperator canister, the rear master cyl resevoir, maybe the seat
and the tank, and the header-pipe guard, and loosen the airbox and
move it back a bit, its still a tight fit?
Dave
On May 14, 5:44 pm, "HellSickle" <jldnospamee...@comcast.spammer,net >
wrote:
> "Craig" <googlegroupm...@yahoo,com > wrote in message
>
> news:6b58b89d-e0d0-42f8-9c8f-19db9443b675@d77g2000hsb.googlegroups,com ...
>
> > It probably has only a few hundred miles on it as it was pulled for an
> > aftermarket carb when the bike was still new. It's missing the pin for
> > the float and the screws for the top. Otherwise I think it's all
> > there.
>
> Oooohhhh... Thanks man. No big rush. There's a ride for you if you're
> ever in Colorado.
>
> Wrestling the carb in and out of the 650L is one of my least favorite jobs.
>
> -Jeff-
You mean, after you remove the hoses, the throttle cable holder, the
oil seperator canister, the rear master cyl resevoir, maybe the seat
and the tank, and the header-pipe guard, and loosen the airbox and
move it back a bit, its still a tight fit?
Dave
Re: Sticky throttle
On May 14, 4:44 pm, "HellSickle" <jldnospamee...@comcast.spammer,net >
wrote:
> Oooohhhh... Thanks man. No big rush. There's a ride for you if you're
> ever in Colorado.
Just so you know, I'm planning on taking you up on that one of these
days.
I just boxed up the carb while enjoying one of Joe's helmet cam vids.
I'll drop it in the mail tomorrow.
> Wrestling the carb in and out of the 650L is one of my least favorite jobs.
Has Honda ever made a 4S single dirt/dualsport bike with a carb that's
easy to work with? At least it's not as bad as the old dual carb
setups.
Craig
On May 14, 4:44 pm, "HellSickle" <jldnospamee...@comcast.spammer,net >
wrote:
> Oooohhhh... Thanks man. No big rush. There's a ride for you if you're
> ever in Colorado.
Just so you know, I'm planning on taking you up on that one of these
days.
I just boxed up the carb while enjoying one of Joe's helmet cam vids.
I'll drop it in the mail tomorrow.
> Wrestling the carb in and out of the 650L is one of my least favorite jobs.
Has Honda ever made a 4S single dirt/dualsport bike with a carb that's
easy to work with? At least it's not as bad as the old dual carb
setups.
Craig
Re: Sticky throttle
Hi!
On Wed, 14 May 2008 11:47:19 -0600, HellSickle wrote:
> Tore it down last night. Could not get it to stick. No debris in the slide
> or carb. The control end looks fine. The only thing suspicious is that the
> outer cable is degrading where it goes into the throttle end ferrule.
Replace the throttle cable (you have a "pull-only" version, no dual
"pull-push"-setup, right?) ASAP. Look for possible chances to kink/stress
the ferrule and its outer cable when routing it. Hint: If you can't twist
the ferrule clockwise and counterclockwise without the slightest
resistance, there's a chance for internal damage like frayed wires etc.
Throw it away in that case.
Use zip-ties to set the route but don't tie them too tight to allow for
some movement. Sometimes theres stuff underneath the throttle grip tube,
the plastic wears out and snatches between the handlebar and the outer tube
or the grip rubber sticks. There are aftermarket parts made out of aluminum
and even have ball bearings for nearly maintenance-free operation.
Check the carb slide for damage - sometimes the chrome-plating comes off in
microscopic parts and catches between carb body & slide. Also the needle
could be bent slightly (for older KTMs, it's anyhow a good idea to replace
needle and emulsifier tube in regular intervals (at least with my Dellorto
carb - it helps idle operation a great deal). Keihins sometimes have a
problem with worn slide rails (check the r.m.d. archive for Rowdie's and my
posts), which could aid in sticking.
It could also be just a vaccum issue - but that seldom results in sticking
but more in a problem rolling open the throttle when RPMs are high and the
slide was closed.
> I can
> see where the spiral steel outer core has been stressed & partially come
> apart. [...] $15 for a new cable from MotionPro ($32 from KTM).
Good idea!
> Checking the service manual, KTM says to replace the slide and needle after
> 100 hours.
I can see a reason for the needle (also remember to change its counterpart
if it's changeable).
> The carb should be replaced after 200 hours.
If it's a Keihin FCR-MX, there's probably a good reason to do so. The body
wears out where the nylon slide rollers go up and down. A $1000 item to
replace. My Dellorto also shows some signs of wear (after 8 years and about
50'000km of use), but the slide made out of chrome plated brass and can
therefore withstand shear abrasion much better.
> I think the lawyers were heavily involved with determination of the service
> schedule.
They take into account heavy offroad and competition use. If you really
race such bikes as a MX pro, then it's more or less toast after a year or
two. I've seen Honda CRF450s that had 2cm more of wheelbase after 50 hours
of aggressive MX riding. This bike also wore out two sets of valves during
that time. So it all depends on your riding style. If you're a hobbyist
like me, you could probably add a factor of ten to those deadlines.
Yet, such bikes still need regular maintenance (oil/airfilter changes,
valve freeplay adjustment, chain slack adjustment, ...) - even if you don't
overrev and otherwise abuse them.
> I agree that carbs eventually wear out. My XRL carb is probably
> kaput, but Honda can't deliver a needle and needle seat (BO'd for almost a
> year now).
Probably time for a Mikuni? ;-) Probably, you get those parts somwhere in
the aftermarket. Shouldn't be too hard, IMHO.
> My ATK worked amazingly well when I replaced the carb after 6
> years.
Yup. I went through a carb cleaning, gasket/rubber-manifold/jet
needle/needle jet replacement project with my 1998 KTM 620 SC. Cost me
about 50 Bucks (EUR, that is) but was well worth the money. Purrs like a
kitten now.
Good luck & happy wrenching,
Volker
--
@: I N F O at B A R T H E L D dot N E T
3W: www .bartheld,net
Hi!
On Wed, 14 May 2008 11:47:19 -0600, HellSickle wrote:
> Tore it down last night. Could not get it to stick. No debris in the slide
> or carb. The control end looks fine. The only thing suspicious is that the
> outer cable is degrading where it goes into the throttle end ferrule.
Replace the throttle cable (you have a "pull-only" version, no dual
"pull-push"-setup, right?) ASAP. Look for possible chances to kink/stress
the ferrule and its outer cable when routing it. Hint: If you can't twist
the ferrule clockwise and counterclockwise without the slightest
resistance, there's a chance for internal damage like frayed wires etc.
Throw it away in that case.
Use zip-ties to set the route but don't tie them too tight to allow for
some movement. Sometimes theres stuff underneath the throttle grip tube,
the plastic wears out and snatches between the handlebar and the outer tube
or the grip rubber sticks. There are aftermarket parts made out of aluminum
and even have ball bearings for nearly maintenance-free operation.
Check the carb slide for damage - sometimes the chrome-plating comes off in
microscopic parts and catches between carb body & slide. Also the needle
could be bent slightly (for older KTMs, it's anyhow a good idea to replace
needle and emulsifier tube in regular intervals (at least with my Dellorto
carb - it helps idle operation a great deal). Keihins sometimes have a
problem with worn slide rails (check the r.m.d. archive for Rowdie's and my
posts), which could aid in sticking.
It could also be just a vaccum issue - but that seldom results in sticking
but more in a problem rolling open the throttle when RPMs are high and the
slide was closed.
> I can
> see where the spiral steel outer core has been stressed & partially come
> apart. [...] $15 for a new cable from MotionPro ($32 from KTM).
Good idea!
> Checking the service manual, KTM says to replace the slide and needle after
> 100 hours.
I can see a reason for the needle (also remember to change its counterpart
if it's changeable).
> The carb should be replaced after 200 hours.
If it's a Keihin FCR-MX, there's probably a good reason to do so. The body
wears out where the nylon slide rollers go up and down. A $1000 item to
replace. My Dellorto also shows some signs of wear (after 8 years and about
50'000km of use), but the slide made out of chrome plated brass and can
therefore withstand shear abrasion much better.
> I think the lawyers were heavily involved with determination of the service
> schedule.
They take into account heavy offroad and competition use. If you really
race such bikes as a MX pro, then it's more or less toast after a year or
two. I've seen Honda CRF450s that had 2cm more of wheelbase after 50 hours
of aggressive MX riding. This bike also wore out two sets of valves during
that time. So it all depends on your riding style. If you're a hobbyist
like me, you could probably add a factor of ten to those deadlines.
Yet, such bikes still need regular maintenance (oil/airfilter changes,
valve freeplay adjustment, chain slack adjustment, ...) - even if you don't
overrev and otherwise abuse them.
> I agree that carbs eventually wear out. My XRL carb is probably
> kaput, but Honda can't deliver a needle and needle seat (BO'd for almost a
> year now).
Probably time for a Mikuni? ;-) Probably, you get those parts somwhere in
the aftermarket. Shouldn't be too hard, IMHO.
> My ATK worked amazingly well when I replaced the carb after 6
> years.
Yup. I went through a carb cleaning, gasket/rubber-manifold/jet
needle/needle jet replacement project with my 1998 KTM 620 SC. Cost me
about 50 Bucks (EUR, that is) but was well worth the money. Purrs like a
kitten now.
Good luck & happy wrenching,
Volker
--
@: I N F O at B A R T H E L D dot N E T
3W: www .bartheld,net
Re: Sticky throttle
> I've never been sold on the auto clutches. I don't think I would have
> bought one myself, but this bike came with one installed. After the Utah
> trip, I was leaning more toward the auto clutch. This has set back my
> expectations.
Yep, I hear ya. See post 15:
http :// tinyurl,com /6hys7d
-Whelan
> I've never been sold on the auto clutches. I don't think I would have
> bought one myself, but this bike came with one installed. After the Utah
> trip, I was leaning more toward the auto clutch. This has set back my
> expectations.
Yep, I hear ya. See post 15:
http :// tinyurl,com /6hys7d
-Whelan
