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Adjustable pushrods ...
and hydraulic lifters are a combo I have no experience with . I seem to
recall reading here that they should be adjusted to about the middle of the
distance the plunger in the lifter moves . That is , if the lifter guts move
.200" , I should extend the pushrod about .100" past the point of initial
contact (with the lifter on the base circle of the cam , of course) . I gots
the lifters , and the pushrods . Just need to pick up the alignment tool and
make sure I have the correct 12 point socket .
It's ticking just a bit when hot , figger it can't be a bad thing to
replace 'em , since I have NO idee of how many miles they got . BSTS !
Shirley it's time for a drink ...
--
Snag
'90 Ultra "Strider"
'39 WLDD "Popcycle"
Buncha cars and a truck
recall reading here that they should be adjusted to about the middle of the
distance the plunger in the lifter moves . That is , if the lifter guts move
.200" , I should extend the pushrod about .100" past the point of initial
contact (with the lifter on the base circle of the cam , of course) . I gots
the lifters , and the pushrods . Just need to pick up the alignment tool and
make sure I have the correct 12 point socket .
It's ticking just a bit when hot , figger it can't be a bad thing to
replace 'em , since I have NO idee of how many miles they got . BSTS !
Shirley it's time for a drink ...
--
Snag
'90 Ultra "Strider"
'39 WLDD "Popcycle"
Buncha cars and a truck
Terry Coombs wrote:
> and hydraulic lifters are a combo I have no experience with . I seem to
> recall reading here that they should be adjusted to about the middle of the
> distance the plunger in the lifter moves . That is , if the lifter guts move
> .200" , I should extend the pushrod about .100" past the point of initial
> contact (with the lifter on the base circle of the cam , of course) . I gots
> the lifters , and the pushrods . Just need to pick up the alignment tool and
> make sure I have the correct 12 point socket .
> It's ticking just a bit when hot , figger it can't be a bad thing to
> replace 'em , since I have NO idee of how many miles they got . BSTS !
> Shirley it's time for a drink ...
Yep. Easiest way I've found to do that is to get the lifter on teh heel
of the cam and tighten the pushrod up until it won't move. Wander
around for a little while, come back and take up the slack that's
developed while the lifter bled down. Repeat as necessary until no slack
develops. The lifter is fully bled then. Back off the number of turns
you need to give back half of the travel (depending on the thread pitch
of the pushrod), lock it down and move on to the next one.
Haven't had to replace lifters in quite a while. Are the HD's still big
axle types and are they still under $30 apiece?
--
Spunky Hussein Tuna
radical ChristoIslamic fundamentalist Pescasupremacist...
but not at all bitter
> and hydraulic lifters are a combo I have no experience with . I seem to
> recall reading here that they should be adjusted to about the middle of the
> distance the plunger in the lifter moves . That is , if the lifter guts move
> .200" , I should extend the pushrod about .100" past the point of initial
> contact (with the lifter on the base circle of the cam , of course) . I gots
> the lifters , and the pushrods . Just need to pick up the alignment tool and
> make sure I have the correct 12 point socket .
> It's ticking just a bit when hot , figger it can't be a bad thing to
> replace 'em , since I have NO idee of how many miles they got . BSTS !
> Shirley it's time for a drink ...
Yep. Easiest way I've found to do that is to get the lifter on teh heel
of the cam and tighten the pushrod up until it won't move. Wander
around for a little while, come back and take up the slack that's
developed while the lifter bled down. Repeat as necessary until no slack
develops. The lifter is fully bled then. Back off the number of turns
you need to give back half of the travel (depending on the thread pitch
of the pushrod), lock it down and move on to the next one.
Haven't had to replace lifters in quite a while. Are the HD's still big
axle types and are they still under $30 apiece?
--
Spunky Hussein Tuna
radical ChristoIslamic fundamentalist Pescasupremacist...
but not at all bitter
Spunky Hussein Tuna wrote:
> Terry Coombs wrote:
>> and hydraulic lifters are a combo I have no experience with . I seem
>> to recall reading here that they should be adjusted to about the
>> middle of the distance the plunger in the lifter moves . That is ,
>> if the lifter guts move .200" , I should extend the pushrod about
>> .100" past the point of initial contact (with the lifter on the base
>> circle of the cam , of course) . I gots the lifters , and the
>> pushrods . Just need to pick up the alignment tool and make sure I
>> have the correct 12 point socket . It's ticking just a bit when
>> hot , figger it can't be a bad thing to replace 'em , since I have
>> NO idee of how many miles they got . BSTS ! Shirley it's time for
>> a drink ...
>
> Yep. Easiest way I've found to do that is to get the lifter on teh
> heel of the cam and tighten the pushrod up until it won't move. Wander
> around for a little while, come back and take up the slack
> that's developed while the lifter bled down. Repeat as necessary
> until no slack develops. The lifter is fully bled then. Back off
> the number of turns you need to give back half of the travel
> (depending on the thread pitch of the pushrod), lock it down and move
> on to the next one.
> Haven't had to replace lifters in quite a while. Are the HD's still
> big axle types and are they still under $30 apiece?
I picked up a set of supposedly hi perf lifters on ebay . Finish is nice
and they look beefy , that's for sure . I did contact another purchaser
before I ordered these , feedback was they looked good enough he was using
them in a 117 inch build . Seems they were like 50 bucks the set . Nope , 65
bucks including shipping .
These are new in the plastic bags , so it'll be easy to adjust them - no
wait to bleed down . Also one helluva racket when it's first fired up .
Gotta remember to borrow the bolt cutter from work ... and get these soaking
in a can of oil the day before the install .
--
Snag
'90 Ultra "Strider"
'39 WLDD "Popcycle"
Buncha cars and a truck
> Terry Coombs wrote:
>> and hydraulic lifters are a combo I have no experience with . I seem
>> to recall reading here that they should be adjusted to about the
>> middle of the distance the plunger in the lifter moves . That is ,
>> if the lifter guts move .200" , I should extend the pushrod about
>> .100" past the point of initial contact (with the lifter on the base
>> circle of the cam , of course) . I gots the lifters , and the
>> pushrods . Just need to pick up the alignment tool and make sure I
>> have the correct 12 point socket . It's ticking just a bit when
>> hot , figger it can't be a bad thing to replace 'em , since I have
>> NO idee of how many miles they got . BSTS ! Shirley it's time for
>> a drink ...
>
> Yep. Easiest way I've found to do that is to get the lifter on teh
> heel of the cam and tighten the pushrod up until it won't move. Wander
> around for a little while, come back and take up the slack
> that's developed while the lifter bled down. Repeat as necessary
> until no slack develops. The lifter is fully bled then. Back off
> the number of turns you need to give back half of the travel
> (depending on the thread pitch of the pushrod), lock it down and move
> on to the next one.
> Haven't had to replace lifters in quite a while. Are the HD's still
> big axle types and are they still under $30 apiece?
I picked up a set of supposedly hi perf lifters on ebay . Finish is nice
and they look beefy , that's for sure . I did contact another purchaser
before I ordered these , feedback was they looked good enough he was using
them in a 117 inch build . Seems they were like 50 bucks the set . Nope , 65
bucks including shipping .
These are new in the plastic bags , so it'll be easy to adjust them - no
wait to bleed down . Also one helluva racket when it's first fired up .
Gotta remember to borrow the bolt cutter from work ... and get these soaking
in a can of oil the day before the install .
--
Snag
'90 Ultra "Strider"
'39 WLDD "Popcycle"
Buncha cars and a truck
Spunky Hussein Tuna wrote:
> Terry Coombs wrote:
>> and hydraulic lifters are a combo I have no experience with . I seem to
>> recall reading here that they should be adjusted to about the middle of
>> the distance the plunger in the lifter moves . That is , if the lifter
>> guts move .200" , I should extend the pushrod about .100" past the point
>> of initial contact (with the lifter on the base circle of the cam , of
>> course) . I gots the lifters , and the pushrods . Just need to pick up
>> the alignment tool and make sure I have the correct 12 point socket .
>> It's ticking just a bit when hot , figger it can't be a bad thing to
>> replace 'em , since I have NO idee of how many miles they got . BSTS !
>> Shirley it's time for a drink ...
>
> Yep. Easiest way I've found to do that is to get the lifter on teh heel
> of the cam and tighten the pushrod up until it won't move. Wander
> around for a little while, come back and take up the slack that's
> developed while the lifter bled down. Repeat as necessary until no slack
> develops. The lifter is fully bled then. Back off the number of turns
> you need to give back half of the travel (depending on the thread pitch
> of the pushrod), lock it down and move on to the next one.
>
> Haven't had to replace lifters in quite a while. Are the HD's still big
> axle types and are they still under $30 apiece?
>
I don't know if they are "large axle", but the stock ones I got about a
month back were 29.95 per, less whatever loyalty discount your beloved
dealer offers. (I get 10 off everything for having spent over $300 there)
The spec for the SE adjustables is to go to zero lash, then 2.5 full turns
more. Mine is running quieter that they have for quite a while. I once
tried the Bleed-em-down-all-the-way-then-back method and it did not go
well, but then I'm not a real mechanic, so that doesn't mean much.
--
you will be assimilated
> Terry Coombs wrote:
>> and hydraulic lifters are a combo I have no experience with . I seem to
>> recall reading here that they should be adjusted to about the middle of
>> the distance the plunger in the lifter moves . That is , if the lifter
>> guts move .200" , I should extend the pushrod about .100" past the point
>> of initial contact (with the lifter on the base circle of the cam , of
>> course) . I gots the lifters , and the pushrods . Just need to pick up
>> the alignment tool and make sure I have the correct 12 point socket .
>> It's ticking just a bit when hot , figger it can't be a bad thing to
>> replace 'em , since I have NO idee of how many miles they got . BSTS !
>> Shirley it's time for a drink ...
>
> Yep. Easiest way I've found to do that is to get the lifter on teh heel
> of the cam and tighten the pushrod up until it won't move. Wander
> around for a little while, come back and take up the slack that's
> developed while the lifter bled down. Repeat as necessary until no slack
> develops. The lifter is fully bled then. Back off the number of turns
> you need to give back half of the travel (depending on the thread pitch
> of the pushrod), lock it down and move on to the next one.
>
> Haven't had to replace lifters in quite a while. Are the HD's still big
> axle types and are they still under $30 apiece?
>
I don't know if they are "large axle", but the stock ones I got about a
month back were 29.95 per, less whatever loyalty discount your beloved
dealer offers. (I get 10 off everything for having spent over $300 there)
The spec for the SE adjustables is to go to zero lash, then 2.5 full turns
more. Mine is running quieter that they have for quite a while. I once
tried the Bleed-em-down-all-the-way-then-back method and it did not go
well, but then I'm not a real mechanic, so that doesn't mean much.
--
you will be assimilated
On Thu, 1 May 2008 18:08:24 -0500, "Terry Coombs" <snagone@bellsouth . net > wrote:
>and hydraulic lifters are a combo I have no experience with . I seem to
>recall reading here that they should be adjusted to about the middle of the
>distance the plunger in the lifter moves . That is , if the lifter guts move
>.200" , I should extend the pushrod about .100" past the point of initial
>contact (with the lifter on the base circle of the cam , of course) . I gots
>the lifters , and the pushrods . Just need to pick up the alignment tool and
>make sure I have the correct 12 point socket .
> It's ticking just a bit when hot , figger it can't be a bad thing to
>replace 'em , since I have NO idee of how many miles they got . BSTS !
> Shirley it's time for a drink ...
Don gave you the easy version of how to adjust push rods. If you don't
know the thread pitch, or like some of us are too lazy to do the math, backin'
off 11/2 turns will give you enough room for hydraulic pump up & plenty of
cushion.
If you have just a little ticking you might want to ask what the push
rods are made of. In EVO days the aluminum stock push rods were pretty quiet.
Then we'd change to some cool adjustables that were made of a harder material &
add some ramp & duration to the bump stick. It left us wonderin' why we
couldn't get all the noise out of the valve train...............Duh!
-
Jinks ('86FXRS, '07 FLTR)
#64
Remember, "No good deed goes unpunished"
>and hydraulic lifters are a combo I have no experience with . I seem to
>recall reading here that they should be adjusted to about the middle of the
>distance the plunger in the lifter moves . That is , if the lifter guts move
>.200" , I should extend the pushrod about .100" past the point of initial
>contact (with the lifter on the base circle of the cam , of course) . I gots
>the lifters , and the pushrods . Just need to pick up the alignment tool and
>make sure I have the correct 12 point socket .
> It's ticking just a bit when hot , figger it can't be a bad thing to
>replace 'em , since I have NO idee of how many miles they got . BSTS !
> Shirley it's time for a drink ...
Don gave you the easy version of how to adjust push rods. If you don't
know the thread pitch, or like some of us are too lazy to do the math, backin'
off 11/2 turns will give you enough room for hydraulic pump up & plenty of
cushion.
If you have just a little ticking you might want to ask what the push
rods are made of. In EVO days the aluminum stock push rods were pretty quiet.
Then we'd change to some cool adjustables that were made of a harder material &
add some ramp & duration to the bump stick. It left us wonderin' why we
couldn't get all the noise out of the valve train...............Duh!
-
Jinks ('86FXRS, '07 FLTR)
#64
Remember, "No good deed goes unpunished"
Jinks wrote:
> On Thu, 1 May 2008 18:08:24 -0500, "Terry Coombs"
> <snagone@bellsouth . net > wrote:
>
>> and hydraulic lifters are a combo I have no experience with . I seem
>> to recall reading here that they should be adjusted to about the
>> middle of the distance the plunger in the lifter moves . That is ,
>> if the lifter guts move .200" , I should extend the pushrod about
>> .100" past the point of initial contact (with the lifter on the base
>> circle of the cam , of course) . I gots the lifters , and the
>> pushrods . Just need to pick up the alignment tool and make sure I
>> have the correct 12 point socket . It's ticking just a bit when hot
>> , figger it can't be a bad thing to replace 'em , since I have NO
>> idee of how many miles they got . BSTS ! Shirley it's time for a
>> drink ...
>
> Don gave you the easy version of how to adjust push rods. If you
> don't
> know the thread pitch, or like some of us are too lazy to do the
> math, backin' off 11/2 turns will give you enough room for hydraulic
> pump up & plenty of cushion.
> If you have just a little ticking you might want to ask what the push
> rods are made of. In EVO days the aluminum stock push rods were
> pretty quiet. Then we'd change to some cool adjustables that were
> made of a harder material & add some ramp & duration to the bump
> stick. It left us wonderin' why we couldn't get all the noise out of
> the valve train...............Duh! -
>
> Jinks ('86FXRS, '07 FLTR)
> #64
> Remember, "No good deed goes unpunished"
Dem bad boys are exactly .025 per turn . I had to source a 3/8-40 tap to
make a locknut that was missing (bored and retapped a gr5 5/16-24 since the
others were 1/2" on the flats). These came from an opened package from a
dealer on ebay (Harley dealer in Pa. IIRC) for a very reasonable price .
There's no tick when cold , and it's not loud when hot . I'll just feel
better KNOWING that I ain't about to spew needle bearings throughout my
motor . The PO kept a lot of records for parts and work , lifters ain't on
any of them ... and at 70k+ it's due for a second replacement set anyway .
Shirley , get Jinks and Spunky whatever they want offa the top shelf .
--
Snag
'90 Ultra "Strider"
'39 WLDD "Popcycle"
Buncha cars and a truck
> On Thu, 1 May 2008 18:08:24 -0500, "Terry Coombs"
> <snagone@bellsouth . net > wrote:
>
>> and hydraulic lifters are a combo I have no experience with . I seem
>> to recall reading here that they should be adjusted to about the
>> middle of the distance the plunger in the lifter moves . That is ,
>> if the lifter guts move .200" , I should extend the pushrod about
>> .100" past the point of initial contact (with the lifter on the base
>> circle of the cam , of course) . I gots the lifters , and the
>> pushrods . Just need to pick up the alignment tool and make sure I
>> have the correct 12 point socket . It's ticking just a bit when hot
>> , figger it can't be a bad thing to replace 'em , since I have NO
>> idee of how many miles they got . BSTS ! Shirley it's time for a
>> drink ...
>
> Don gave you the easy version of how to adjust push rods. If you
> don't
> know the thread pitch, or like some of us are too lazy to do the
> math, backin' off 11/2 turns will give you enough room for hydraulic
> pump up & plenty of cushion.
> If you have just a little ticking you might want to ask what the push
> rods are made of. In EVO days the aluminum stock push rods were
> pretty quiet. Then we'd change to some cool adjustables that were
> made of a harder material & add some ramp & duration to the bump
> stick. It left us wonderin' why we couldn't get all the noise out of
> the valve train...............Duh! -
>
> Jinks ('86FXRS, '07 FLTR)
> #64
> Remember, "No good deed goes unpunished"
Dem bad boys are exactly .025 per turn . I had to source a 3/8-40 tap to
make a locknut that was missing (bored and retapped a gr5 5/16-24 since the
others were 1/2" on the flats). These came from an opened package from a
dealer on ebay (Harley dealer in Pa. IIRC) for a very reasonable price .
There's no tick when cold , and it's not loud when hot . I'll just feel
better KNOWING that I ain't about to spew needle bearings throughout my
motor . The PO kept a lot of records for parts and work , lifters ain't on
any of them ... and at 70k+ it's due for a second replacement set anyway .
Shirley , get Jinks and Spunky whatever they want offa the top shelf .
--
Snag
'90 Ultra "Strider"
'39 WLDD "Popcycle"
Buncha cars and a truck
Jinks wrote:
> Don gave you the easy version of how to adjust push rods. If you don't
> know the thread pitch, or like some of us are too lazy to do the math, backin'
> off 11/2 turns will give you enough room for hydraulic pump up & plenty of
> cushion.
> If you have just a little ticking you might want to ask what the push
> rods are made of. In EVO days the aluminum stock push rods were pretty quiet.
> Then we'd change to some cool adjustables that were made of a harder material &
> add some ramp & duration to the bump stick. It left us wonderin' why we
> couldn't get all the noise out of the valve train...............Duh!
Good point. I hadn't even thought of that.
--
Spunky Hussein Tuna
radical ChristoIslamic fundamentalist Pescasupremacist...
but not at all bitter
> Don gave you the easy version of how to adjust push rods. If you don't
> know the thread pitch, or like some of us are too lazy to do the math, backin'
> off 11/2 turns will give you enough room for hydraulic pump up & plenty of
> cushion.
> If you have just a little ticking you might want to ask what the push
> rods are made of. In EVO days the aluminum stock push rods were pretty quiet.
> Then we'd change to some cool adjustables that were made of a harder material &
> add some ramp & duration to the bump stick. It left us wonderin' why we
> couldn't get all the noise out of the valve train...............Duh!
Good point. I hadn't even thought of that.
--
Spunky Hussein Tuna
radical ChristoIslamic fundamentalist Pescasupremacist...
but not at all bitter
Terry Coombs wrote:
> and hydraulic lifters are a combo I have no experience with . I seem
> to recall reading here that they should be adjusted to about the
> middle of the distance the plunger in the lifter moves . That is , if
> the lifter guts move .200" , I should extend the pushrod about .100"
> past the point of initial contact (with the lifter on the base circle
> of the cam , of course) . I gots the lifters , and the pushrods .
> Just need to pick up the alignment tool and make sure I have the
> correct 12 point socket . It's ticking just a bit when hot , figger
> it can't be a bad thing to replace 'em , since I have NO idee of how
> many miles they got . BSTS ! Shirley it's time for a drink ...
Not sure about the EVO, but on the TC there's a tool you can use to keep the
tubes outta the way while adjuting them pushrods. An old fashioned clothes
pin, the kind with the spring now have a place in my toolbox.
--
Bill C. "I am NOT lost... I'm *exploring*"
'01 FXDXT
'94 Shadow VLX
yank "yercrank" to email
spacecriter (Bill C) wrote:
> Terry Coombs wrote:
>> and hydraulic lifters are a combo I have no experience with . I seem
>> to recall reading here that they should be adjusted to about the
>> middle of the distance the plunger in the lifter moves . That is , if
>> the lifter guts move .200" , I should extend the pushrod about .100"
>> past the point of initial contact (with the lifter on the base circle
>> of the cam , of course) . I gots the lifters , and the pushrods .
>> Just need to pick up the alignment tool and make sure I have the
>> correct 12 point socket . It's ticking just a bit when hot , figger
>> it can't be a bad thing to replace 'em , since I have NO idee of how
>> many miles they got . BSTS ! Shirley it's time for a drink ...
>
> Not sure about the EVO, but on the TC there's a tool you can use to
> keep the tubes outta the way while adjuting them pushrods. An old
> fashioned clothes pin, the kind with the spring now have a place in
> my toolbox.
I useta carry four of 'em in the saddlebag of the Shovel ... I was
paranoid about adjustment cuz those wuz my first set of solid lifters . I
haven't even put the toolkit back on this bike since the rear suspension
mods , but then I've only been local so far .
--
Snag
'90 Ultra "Strider"
'39 WLDD "Popcycle"
Buncha cars and a truck
> Terry Coombs wrote:
>> and hydraulic lifters are a combo I have no experience with . I seem
>> to recall reading here that they should be adjusted to about the
>> middle of the distance the plunger in the lifter moves . That is , if
>> the lifter guts move .200" , I should extend the pushrod about .100"
>> past the point of initial contact (with the lifter on the base circle
>> of the cam , of course) . I gots the lifters , and the pushrods .
>> Just need to pick up the alignment tool and make sure I have the
>> correct 12 point socket . It's ticking just a bit when hot , figger
>> it can't be a bad thing to replace 'em , since I have NO idee of how
>> many miles they got . BSTS ! Shirley it's time for a drink ...
>
> Not sure about the EVO, but on the TC there's a tool you can use to
> keep the tubes outta the way while adjuting them pushrods. An old
> fashioned clothes pin, the kind with the spring now have a place in
> my toolbox.
I useta carry four of 'em in the saddlebag of the Shovel ... I was
paranoid about adjustment cuz those wuz my first set of solid lifters . I
haven't even put the toolkit back on this bike since the rear suspension
mods , but then I've only been local so far .
--
Snag
'90 Ultra "Strider"
'39 WLDD "Popcycle"
Buncha cars and a truck
spacecriter (Bill C) wrote:
> Terry Coombs wrote:
>> and hydraulic lifters are a combo I have no experience with . I seem
>> to recall reading here that they should be adjusted to about the
>> middle of the distance the plunger in the lifter moves . That is , if
>> the lifter guts move .200" , I should extend the pushrod about .100"
>> past the point of initial contact (with the lifter on the base circle
>> of the cam , of course) . I gots the lifters , and the pushrods .
>> Just need to pick up the alignment tool and make sure I have the
>> correct 12 point socket . It's ticking just a bit when hot , figger
>> it can't be a bad thing to replace 'em , since I have NO idee of how
>> many miles they got . BSTS ! Shirley it's time for a drink ...
>
> Not sure about the EVO, but on the TC there's a tool you can use to keep the
> tubes outta the way while adjuting them pushrods. An old fashioned clothes
> pin, the kind with the spring now have a place in my toolbox.
I've used a bent paper clip and a rubber band to do that for, shit can
it be forty years?
Damn.
--
Spunky Hussein Tuna
radical ChristoIslamic fundamentalist Pescasupremacist...
but not at all bitter
> Terry Coombs wrote:
>> and hydraulic lifters are a combo I have no experience with . I seem
>> to recall reading here that they should be adjusted to about the
>> middle of the distance the plunger in the lifter moves . That is , if
>> the lifter guts move .200" , I should extend the pushrod about .100"
>> past the point of initial contact (with the lifter on the base circle
>> of the cam , of course) . I gots the lifters , and the pushrods .
>> Just need to pick up the alignment tool and make sure I have the
>> correct 12 point socket . It's ticking just a bit when hot , figger
>> it can't be a bad thing to replace 'em , since I have NO idee of how
>> many miles they got . BSTS ! Shirley it's time for a drink ...
>
> Not sure about the EVO, but on the TC there's a tool you can use to keep the
> tubes outta the way while adjuting them pushrods. An old fashioned clothes
> pin, the kind with the spring now have a place in my toolbox.
I've used a bent paper clip and a rubber band to do that for, shit can
it be forty years?
Damn.
--
Spunky Hussein Tuna
radical ChristoIslamic fundamentalist Pescasupremacist...
but not at all bitter
Terry Coombs wrote
> and hydraulic lifters are a combo I have no experience with . I seem to
> recall reading here that they should be adjusted to about the middle of
> the distance the plunger in the lifter moves . That is , if the lifter
> guts move .200" , I should extend the pushrod about .100" past the point
> of initial contact (with the lifter on the base circle of the cam , of
> course) . I gots the lifters , and the pushrods . Just need to pick up the
> alignment tool and make sure I have the correct 12 point socket .
> It's ticking just a bit when hot , figger it can't be a bad thing to
> replace 'em , since I have NO idee of how many miles they got . BSTS !
> Shirley it's time for a drink ...
Good advice from the others, I'll just add that certain adjustable pushrods
will hit the bottom of the inner tube when running. Just watch for it and
trim the tube to clear if needed, especially watch the front exhaust. If
you need to shorten the tube, 1/4" is usually more than plenty.
Thanx for the cough syrup, pollen is killing me
Paulie
--
BS #77; LFS #31; SENS; IBA #7475; MISFIT
Blow "chunks" to reply
web site " * webpages.charter . net /fltpaulie"
> and hydraulic lifters are a combo I have no experience with . I seem to
> recall reading here that they should be adjusted to about the middle of
> the distance the plunger in the lifter moves . That is , if the lifter
> guts move .200" , I should extend the pushrod about .100" past the point
> of initial contact (with the lifter on the base circle of the cam , of
> course) . I gots the lifters , and the pushrods . Just need to pick up the
> alignment tool and make sure I have the correct 12 point socket .
> It's ticking just a bit when hot , figger it can't be a bad thing to
> replace 'em , since I have NO idee of how many miles they got . BSTS !
> Shirley it's time for a drink ...
Good advice from the others, I'll just add that certain adjustable pushrods
will hit the bottom of the inner tube when running. Just watch for it and
trim the tube to clear if needed, especially watch the front exhaust. If
you need to shorten the tube, 1/4" is usually more than plenty.
Thanx for the cough syrup, pollen is killing me
Paulie
--
BS #77; LFS #31; SENS; IBA #7475; MISFIT
Blow "chunks" to reply
web site " * webpages.charter . net /fltpaulie"
