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Dynamic compresion
Dynamic compresion
Trying to figure out a stroker shovelhead. Brought to me with starter
problems. Seems the problem goes deeper as I was not able to kick it
through (ignition off). Got 90 lbs just bouncing on the kicker.
'Lectric start is junked, but I figger if I can't kick it a new starter
is just gonna get smoked. So I got to looking at the cam timing.
It has an Andrews #6 which should be the right cam, but the intake is
closing 6 degrees earlier than advertised (50 intead of 56after). Will
6 degrees make that much difference? The really strange part is the
intake is not opening 6 early. And the (measured) exhaust #'s are very
close to advertised. Don't know if I got a bad grind, or are they
staggering the rear cylinder timing (that's the one I'm checking on,
can't see the dial indicator on the front cylinder with the carb on).
Guess I need a second set of eyes to check the front one.
I measured 4 5/8 stroke (marking on a screwdriver) and the cylinders
are marked S&S 80. I guess I could decode the flywheel markings for
confirmation, but I still don't know what the pisons are.... He said
also when he could get it started and rode it, it got hot.
I'm thinkin if the front cylinder dials in the same I'll retard the cam
timing to get the intake closing 56~58 and play with that, and a call
to Andrews&Baisley on Monday to see if they are handing out any clues.
But maybe someone here, has been there, and wouldn,t mind shareing
while they drink on my tab.
--
Ryder Rick
Trying to figure out a stroker shovelhead. Brought to me with starter
problems. Seems the problem goes deeper as I was not able to kick it
through (ignition off). Got 90 lbs just bouncing on the kicker.
'Lectric start is junked, but I figger if I can't kick it a new starter
is just gonna get smoked. So I got to looking at the cam timing.
It has an Andrews #6 which should be the right cam, but the intake is
closing 6 degrees earlier than advertised (50 intead of 56after). Will
6 degrees make that much difference? The really strange part is the
intake is not opening 6 early. And the (measured) exhaust #'s are very
close to advertised. Don't know if I got a bad grind, or are they
staggering the rear cylinder timing (that's the one I'm checking on,
can't see the dial indicator on the front cylinder with the carb on).
Guess I need a second set of eyes to check the front one.
I measured 4 5/8 stroke (marking on a screwdriver) and the cylinders
are marked S&S 80. I guess I could decode the flywheel markings for
confirmation, but I still don't know what the pisons are.... He said
also when he could get it started and rode it, it got hot.
I'm thinkin if the front cylinder dials in the same I'll retard the cam
timing to get the intake closing 56~58 and play with that, and a call
to Andrews&Baisley on Monday to see if they are handing out any clues.
But maybe someone here, has been there, and wouldn,t mind shareing
while they drink on my tab.
--
Ryder Rick
Re: Dynamic compresion
Rick Begeman wrote:
> Trying to figure out a stroker shovelhead. Brought to me with starter
> problems. Seems the problem goes deeper as I was not able to kick it
> through (ignition off). Got 90 lbs just bouncing on the kicker.
> 'Lectric start is junked, but I figger if I can't kick it a new starter
> is just gonna get smoked. So I got to looking at the cam timing.
>
> It has an Andrews #6 which should be the right cam, but the intake is
> closing 6 degrees earlier than advertised (50 intead of 56after). Will
> 6 degrees make that much difference? The really strange part is the
> intake is not opening 6 early. And the (measured) exhaust #'s are very
> close to advertised. Don't know if I got a bad grind, or are they
> staggering the rear cylinder timing (that's the one I'm checking on,
> can't see the dial indicator on the front cylinder with the carb on).
> Guess I need a second set of eyes to check the front one.
>
> I measured 4 5/8 stroke (marking on a screwdriver) and the cylinders
> are marked S&S 80. I guess I could decode the flywheel markings for
> confirmation, but I still don't know what the pisons are.... He said
> also when he could get it started and rode it, it got hot.
>
> I'm thinkin if the front cylinder dials in the same I'll retard the cam
> timing to get the intake closing 56~58 and play with that, and a call
> to Andrews&Baisley on Monday to see if they are handing out any clues.
> But maybe someone here, has been there, and wouldn,t mind shareing
> while they drink on my tab.
>
> --
> Ryder Rick
My old Shovel was hard as hell on batteries and starters. It was a 98 inch
with 9-1/4 to compression. It may have been more because I machined the
cylinder bases down to bring the pistons all the way to the top. I'm a big
fat fuck and I could hardly kick it over to start it. I assume you're
checking off of the sprocket shaft side of the engine with the degree wheel
(maybe not). If you are then I'd vote for shifted wheels. Not unheard of in
a Shovel if the wheels are cast or if they're S&S and some dodo used the
factory torque specs.
All of my Shovel builds with S&S wheels got *torqued* with a 1" breaker
bar and a five foot long piece of pipe. We'd torque 'em to 50 ft pounds,
true them, mark the shaft, nut and wheels with an index mark and pull on
them until we got the rod side clearence right. Scary shit no doubt but
that's what the tech guy at S&S told me to do and I never had a bottom end
problem. He said 500 ft lbs was good.
We ran the 6 cam in several 98"s and it's a damn good cam for that engine.
I also like the M grind it's about the same but with a lot more lift and a
little different timing. Don't know if that helps any but that's all I got.
Sounds like you're going to have to go deep to find out what's going on.
That's the way it works when you're following someone elses work. Can't you
move the cam gear on Andrews cams?
nobody #1
Rick Begeman wrote:
> Trying to figure out a stroker shovelhead. Brought to me with starter
> problems. Seems the problem goes deeper as I was not able to kick it
> through (ignition off). Got 90 lbs just bouncing on the kicker.
> 'Lectric start is junked, but I figger if I can't kick it a new starter
> is just gonna get smoked. So I got to looking at the cam timing.
>
> It has an Andrews #6 which should be the right cam, but the intake is
> closing 6 degrees earlier than advertised (50 intead of 56after). Will
> 6 degrees make that much difference? The really strange part is the
> intake is not opening 6 early. And the (measured) exhaust #'s are very
> close to advertised. Don't know if I got a bad grind, or are they
> staggering the rear cylinder timing (that's the one I'm checking on,
> can't see the dial indicator on the front cylinder with the carb on).
> Guess I need a second set of eyes to check the front one.
>
> I measured 4 5/8 stroke (marking on a screwdriver) and the cylinders
> are marked S&S 80. I guess I could decode the flywheel markings for
> confirmation, but I still don't know what the pisons are.... He said
> also when he could get it started and rode it, it got hot.
>
> I'm thinkin if the front cylinder dials in the same I'll retard the cam
> timing to get the intake closing 56~58 and play with that, and a call
> to Andrews&Baisley on Monday to see if they are handing out any clues.
> But maybe someone here, has been there, and wouldn,t mind shareing
> while they drink on my tab.
>
> --
> Ryder Rick
My old Shovel was hard as hell on batteries and starters. It was a 98 inch
with 9-1/4 to compression. It may have been more because I machined the
cylinder bases down to bring the pistons all the way to the top. I'm a big
fat fuck and I could hardly kick it over to start it. I assume you're
checking off of the sprocket shaft side of the engine with the degree wheel
(maybe not). If you are then I'd vote for shifted wheels. Not unheard of in
a Shovel if the wheels are cast or if they're S&S and some dodo used the
factory torque specs.
All of my Shovel builds with S&S wheels got *torqued* with a 1" breaker
bar and a five foot long piece of pipe. We'd torque 'em to 50 ft pounds,
true them, mark the shaft, nut and wheels with an index mark and pull on
them until we got the rod side clearence right. Scary shit no doubt but
that's what the tech guy at S&S told me to do and I never had a bottom end
problem. He said 500 ft lbs was good.
We ran the 6 cam in several 98"s and it's a damn good cam for that engine.
I also like the M grind it's about the same but with a lot more lift and a
little different timing. Don't know if that helps any but that's all I got.
Sounds like you're going to have to go deep to find out what's going on.
That's the way it works when you're following someone elses work. Can't you
move the cam gear on Andrews cams?
nobody #1
Re: Dynamic compresion
On 2008-05-19 15:56:41 -0700, nobody #1 <rnddmauck@comcast,net > said:
>
>
> Rick Begeman wrote:
>
>> Trying to figure out a stroker shovelhead. Brought to me with starter
>> problems. Seems the problem goes deeper as I was not able to kick it
>> through (ignition off). Got 90 lbs just bouncing on the kicker.
>> 'Lectric start is junked, but I figger if I can't kick it a new starter
>> is just gonna get smoked. So I got to looking at the cam timing.
>>
>> It has an Andrews #6 which should be the right cam, but the intake is
>> closing 6 degrees earlier than advertised (50 intead of 56after). Will
>> 6 degrees make that much difference? The really strange part is the
>> intake is not opening 6 early. And the (measured) exhaust #'s are very
>> close to advertised. Don't know if I got a bad grind, or are they
>> staggering the rear cylinder timing (that's the one I'm checking on,
>> can't see the dial indicator on the front cylinder with the carb on).
>> Guess I need a second set of eyes to check the front one.
>>
>> I measured 4 5/8 stroke (marking on a screwdriver) and the cylinders
>> are marked S&S 80. I guess I could decode the flywheel markings for
>> confirmation, but I still don't know what the pisons are.... He said
>> also when he could get it started and rode it, it got hot.
>>
>> I'm thinkin if the front cylinder dials in the same I'll retard the cam
>> timing to get the intake closing 56~58 and play with that, and a call
>> to Andrews&Baisley on Monday to see if they are handing out any clues.
>> But maybe someone here, has been there, and wouldn,t mind shareing
>> while they drink on my tab.
>>
>> --
>> Ryder Rick
>
> My old Shovel was hard as hell on batteries and starters. It was a 98 inch
> with 9-1/4 to compression. It may have been more because I machined the
> cylinder bases down to bring the pistons all the way to the top. I'm a big
> fat fuck and I could hardly kick it over to start it. I assume you're
> checking off of the sprocket shaft side of the engine with the degree wheel
> (maybe not). If you are then I'd vote for shifted wheels. Not unheard of in
> a Shovel if the wheels are cast or if they're S&S and some dodo used the
> factory torque specs.
>
> All of my Shovel builds with S&S wheels got *torqued* with a 1" breaker
> bar and a five foot long piece of pipe. We'd torque 'em to 50 ft pounds,
> true them, mark the shaft, nut and wheels with an index mark and pull on
> them until we got the rod side clearence right. Scary shit no doubt but
> that's what the tech guy at S&S told me to do and I never had a bottom end
> problem. He said 500 ft lbs was good.
>
> We ran the 6 cam in several 98"s and it's a damn good cam for that engine.
> I also like the M grind it's about the same but with a lot more lift and a
> little different timing. Don't know if that helps any but that's all I got.
> Sounds like you're going to have to go deep to find out what's going on.
> That's the way it works when you're following someone elses work. Can't you
> move the cam gear on Andrews cams?
>
>
>
> nobody #1
Cam gear is moveable. But, exhaust timing is within a couple of
advertised and intake is not opening 6 early.
I bugged Baisley about it and he wants me to follow through and degree
the front cylinder to see if the cam is a bad grind or mislabled. He
also mentioned that Jims at one time had a problem with the lifter axle
not being centered, turn the lifter around and re-measure and get
different timing. He said a couple of degrees error is not a biggie
(and common) but 6 is significant. He kept coming back to a bad cam.
I played with it a bit before I opened it up and it seemed that both
cyclinders had similar compression.
I have never had one that could not be kicked through yet, but i don't
build them with that much compression. Dan also mentioned that the S&S
stroker pistons which are what it is supposed to have are 8.5 and he
thinks that something else has been done to cause the problem.
If you could hardly kick it how didja get the mother fired? I figger if
I can't kick it, howsa 'lectric gonna get the job done.....
--
Ryder Rick
On 2008-05-19 15:56:41 -0700, nobody #1 <rnddmauck@comcast,net > said:
>
>
> Rick Begeman wrote:
>
>> Trying to figure out a stroker shovelhead. Brought to me with starter
>> problems. Seems the problem goes deeper as I was not able to kick it
>> through (ignition off). Got 90 lbs just bouncing on the kicker.
>> 'Lectric start is junked, but I figger if I can't kick it a new starter
>> is just gonna get smoked. So I got to looking at the cam timing.
>>
>> It has an Andrews #6 which should be the right cam, but the intake is
>> closing 6 degrees earlier than advertised (50 intead of 56after). Will
>> 6 degrees make that much difference? The really strange part is the
>> intake is not opening 6 early. And the (measured) exhaust #'s are very
>> close to advertised. Don't know if I got a bad grind, or are they
>> staggering the rear cylinder timing (that's the one I'm checking on,
>> can't see the dial indicator on the front cylinder with the carb on).
>> Guess I need a second set of eyes to check the front one.
>>
>> I measured 4 5/8 stroke (marking on a screwdriver) and the cylinders
>> are marked S&S 80. I guess I could decode the flywheel markings for
>> confirmation, but I still don't know what the pisons are.... He said
>> also when he could get it started and rode it, it got hot.
>>
>> I'm thinkin if the front cylinder dials in the same I'll retard the cam
>> timing to get the intake closing 56~58 and play with that, and a call
>> to Andrews&Baisley on Monday to see if they are handing out any clues.
>> But maybe someone here, has been there, and wouldn,t mind shareing
>> while they drink on my tab.
>>
>> --
>> Ryder Rick
>
> My old Shovel was hard as hell on batteries and starters. It was a 98 inch
> with 9-1/4 to compression. It may have been more because I machined the
> cylinder bases down to bring the pistons all the way to the top. I'm a big
> fat fuck and I could hardly kick it over to start it. I assume you're
> checking off of the sprocket shaft side of the engine with the degree wheel
> (maybe not). If you are then I'd vote for shifted wheels. Not unheard of in
> a Shovel if the wheels are cast or if they're S&S and some dodo used the
> factory torque specs.
>
> All of my Shovel builds with S&S wheels got *torqued* with a 1" breaker
> bar and a five foot long piece of pipe. We'd torque 'em to 50 ft pounds,
> true them, mark the shaft, nut and wheels with an index mark and pull on
> them until we got the rod side clearence right. Scary shit no doubt but
> that's what the tech guy at S&S told me to do and I never had a bottom end
> problem. He said 500 ft lbs was good.
>
> We ran the 6 cam in several 98"s and it's a damn good cam for that engine.
> I also like the M grind it's about the same but with a lot more lift and a
> little different timing. Don't know if that helps any but that's all I got.
> Sounds like you're going to have to go deep to find out what's going on.
> That's the way it works when you're following someone elses work. Can't you
> move the cam gear on Andrews cams?
>
>
>
> nobody #1
Cam gear is moveable. But, exhaust timing is within a couple of
advertised and intake is not opening 6 early.
I bugged Baisley about it and he wants me to follow through and degree
the front cylinder to see if the cam is a bad grind or mislabled. He
also mentioned that Jims at one time had a problem with the lifter axle
not being centered, turn the lifter around and re-measure and get
different timing. He said a couple of degrees error is not a biggie
(and common) but 6 is significant. He kept coming back to a bad cam.
I played with it a bit before I opened it up and it seemed that both
cyclinders had similar compression.
I have never had one that could not be kicked through yet, but i don't
build them with that much compression. Dan also mentioned that the S&S
stroker pistons which are what it is supposed to have are 8.5 and he
thinks that something else has been done to cause the problem.
If you could hardly kick it how didja get the mother fired? I figger if
I can't kick it, howsa 'lectric gonna get the job done.....
--
Ryder Rick
Re: Dynamic compresion
Richard Begeman wrote:
> On 2008-05-19 15:56:41 -0700, nobody #1 <rnddmauck@comcast,net > said:
>
> >
> >
> > Rick Begeman wrote:
> >
> >> Trying to figure out a stroker shovelhead. Brought to me with starter
> >> problems. Seems the problem goes deeper as I was not able to kick it
> >> through (ignition off). Got 90 lbs just bouncing on the kicker.
> >> 'Lectric start is junked, but I figger if I can't kick it a new starter
> >> is just gonna get smoked. So I got to looking at the cam timing.
> >>
> >> It has an Andrews #6 which should be the right cam, but the intake is
> >> closing 6 degrees earlier than advertised (50 intead of 56after). Will
> >> 6 degrees make that much difference? The really strange part is the
> >> intake is not opening 6 early. And the (measured) exhaust #'s are very
> >> close to advertised. Don't know if I got a bad grind, or are they
> >> staggering the rear cylinder timing (that's the one I'm checking on,
> >> can't see the dial indicator on the front cylinder with the carb on).
> >> Guess I need a second set of eyes to check the front one.
> >>
> >> I measured 4 5/8 stroke (marking on a screwdriver) and the cylinders
> >> are marked S&S 80. I guess I could decode the flywheel markings for
> >> confirmation, but I still don't know what the pisons are.... He said
> >> also when he could get it started and rode it, it got hot.
> >>
> >> I'm thinkin if the front cylinder dials in the same I'll retard the cam
> >> timing to get the intake closing 56~58 and play with that, and a call
> >> to Andrews&Baisley on Monday to see if they are handing out any clues.
> >> But maybe someone here, has been there, and wouldn,t mind shareing
> >> while they drink on my tab.
> >>
> >> --
> >> Ryder Rick
> >
> > My old Shovel was hard as hell on batteries and starters. It was a 98 inch
> > with 9-1/4 to compression. It may have been more because I machined the
> > cylinder bases down to bring the pistons all the way to the top. I'm a big
> > fat fuck and I could hardly kick it over to start it. I assume you're
> > checking off of the sprocket shaft side of the engine with the degree wheel
> > (maybe not). If you are then I'd vote for shifted wheels. Not unheard of in
> > a Shovel if the wheels are cast or if they're S&S and some dodo used the
> > factory torque specs.
> >
> > All of my Shovel builds with S&S wheels got *torqued* with a 1" breaker
> > bar and a five foot long piece of pipe. We'd torque 'em to 50 ft pounds,
> > true them, mark the shaft, nut and wheels with an index mark and pull on
> > them until we got the rod side clearence right. Scary shit no doubt but
> > that's what the tech guy at S&S told me to do and I never had a bottom end
> > problem. He said 500 ft lbs was good.
> >
> > We ran the 6 cam in several 98"s and it's a damn good cam for that engine.
> > I also like the M grind it's about the same but with a lot more lift and a
> > little different timing. Don't know if that helps any but that's all I got.
> > Sounds like you're going to have to go deep to find out what's going on.
> > That's the way it works when you're following someone elses work. Can't you
> > move the cam gear on Andrews cams?
> >
> >
> >
> > nobody #1
>
> Cam gear is moveable. But, exhaust timing is within a couple of
> advertised and intake is not opening 6 early.
>
> I bugged Baisley about it and he wants me to follow through and degree
> the front cylinder to see if the cam is a bad grind or mislabled. He
> also mentioned that Jims at one time had a problem with the lifter axle
> not being centered, turn the lifter around and re-measure and get
> different timing. He said a couple of degrees error is not a biggie
> (and common) but 6 is significant. He kept coming back to a bad cam.
>
> I played with it a bit before I opened it up and it seemed that both
> cyclinders had similar compression.
>
> I have never had one that could not be kicked through yet, but i don't
> build them with that much compression. Dan also mentioned that the S&S
> stroker pistons which are what it is supposed to have are 8.5 and he
> thinks that something else has been done to cause the problem.
>
> If you could hardly kick it how didja get the mother fired? I figger if
> I can't kick it, howsa 'lectric gonna get the job done.....
> --
> Ryder Rick
I usually kicked it while thumbing the starter button. It usually fired on the
second compression stroke cold and on the first hot. It had dual plug heads and I
had the timer set at 6 degrees at idle with 29 total. It ran good but my Ultra
would stomp it's ass any day of the week and it weighs 220lbs more.
nobody #1
Richard Begeman wrote:
> On 2008-05-19 15:56:41 -0700, nobody #1 <rnddmauck@comcast,net > said:
>
> >
> >
> > Rick Begeman wrote:
> >
> >> Trying to figure out a stroker shovelhead. Brought to me with starter
> >> problems. Seems the problem goes deeper as I was not able to kick it
> >> through (ignition off). Got 90 lbs just bouncing on the kicker.
> >> 'Lectric start is junked, but I figger if I can't kick it a new starter
> >> is just gonna get smoked. So I got to looking at the cam timing.
> >>
> >> It has an Andrews #6 which should be the right cam, but the intake is
> >> closing 6 degrees earlier than advertised (50 intead of 56after). Will
> >> 6 degrees make that much difference? The really strange part is the
> >> intake is not opening 6 early. And the (measured) exhaust #'s are very
> >> close to advertised. Don't know if I got a bad grind, or are they
> >> staggering the rear cylinder timing (that's the one I'm checking on,
> >> can't see the dial indicator on the front cylinder with the carb on).
> >> Guess I need a second set of eyes to check the front one.
> >>
> >> I measured 4 5/8 stroke (marking on a screwdriver) and the cylinders
> >> are marked S&S 80. I guess I could decode the flywheel markings for
> >> confirmation, but I still don't know what the pisons are.... He said
> >> also when he could get it started and rode it, it got hot.
> >>
> >> I'm thinkin if the front cylinder dials in the same I'll retard the cam
> >> timing to get the intake closing 56~58 and play with that, and a call
> >> to Andrews&Baisley on Monday to see if they are handing out any clues.
> >> But maybe someone here, has been there, and wouldn,t mind shareing
> >> while they drink on my tab.
> >>
> >> --
> >> Ryder Rick
> >
> > My old Shovel was hard as hell on batteries and starters. It was a 98 inch
> > with 9-1/4 to compression. It may have been more because I machined the
> > cylinder bases down to bring the pistons all the way to the top. I'm a big
> > fat fuck and I could hardly kick it over to start it. I assume you're
> > checking off of the sprocket shaft side of the engine with the degree wheel
> > (maybe not). If you are then I'd vote for shifted wheels. Not unheard of in
> > a Shovel if the wheels are cast or if they're S&S and some dodo used the
> > factory torque specs.
> >
> > All of my Shovel builds with S&S wheels got *torqued* with a 1" breaker
> > bar and a five foot long piece of pipe. We'd torque 'em to 50 ft pounds,
> > true them, mark the shaft, nut and wheels with an index mark and pull on
> > them until we got the rod side clearence right. Scary shit no doubt but
> > that's what the tech guy at S&S told me to do and I never had a bottom end
> > problem. He said 500 ft lbs was good.
> >
> > We ran the 6 cam in several 98"s and it's a damn good cam for that engine.
> > I also like the M grind it's about the same but with a lot more lift and a
> > little different timing. Don't know if that helps any but that's all I got.
> > Sounds like you're going to have to go deep to find out what's going on.
> > That's the way it works when you're following someone elses work. Can't you
> > move the cam gear on Andrews cams?
> >
> >
> >
> > nobody #1
>
> Cam gear is moveable. But, exhaust timing is within a couple of
> advertised and intake is not opening 6 early.
>
> I bugged Baisley about it and he wants me to follow through and degree
> the front cylinder to see if the cam is a bad grind or mislabled. He
> also mentioned that Jims at one time had a problem with the lifter axle
> not being centered, turn the lifter around and re-measure and get
> different timing. He said a couple of degrees error is not a biggie
> (and common) but 6 is significant. He kept coming back to a bad cam.
>
> I played with it a bit before I opened it up and it seemed that both
> cyclinders had similar compression.
>
> I have never had one that could not be kicked through yet, but i don't
> build them with that much compression. Dan also mentioned that the S&S
> stroker pistons which are what it is supposed to have are 8.5 and he
> thinks that something else has been done to cause the problem.
>
> If you could hardly kick it how didja get the mother fired? I figger if
> I can't kick it, howsa 'lectric gonna get the job done.....
> --
> Ryder Rick
I usually kicked it while thumbing the starter button. It usually fired on the
second compression stroke cold and on the first hot. It had dual plug heads and I
had the timer set at 6 degrees at idle with 29 total. It ran good but my Ultra
would stomp it's ass any day of the week and it weighs 220lbs more.
nobody #1
Re: Dynamic compresion (update)
On 2008-05-18 22:58:27 -0700, Rick Begeman <rickb794@gmail,com > said:
> Trying to figure out a stroker shovelhead. Brought to me with starter
> problems. Seems the problem goes deeper as I was not able to kick it
> through (ignition off). Got 90 lbs just bouncing on the kicker.
> 'Lectric start is junked, but I figger if I can't kick it a new starter
> is just gonna get smoked. So I got to looking at the cam timing.
>
> It has an Andrews #6 which should be the right cam, but the intake is
> closing 6 degrees earlier than advertised (50 intead of 56after). Will
> 6 degrees make that much difference? The really strange part is the
> intake is not opening 6 early. And the (measured) exhaust #'s are very
> close to advertised. Don't know if I got a bad grind, or are they
> staggering the rear cylinder timing (that's the one I'm checking on,
> can't see the dial indicator on the front cylinder with the carb on).
> Guess I need a second set of eyes to check the front one.
>
> I measured 4 5/8 stroke (marking on a screwdriver) and the cylinders
> are marked S&S 80. I guess I could decode the flywheel markings for
> confirmation, but I still don't know what the pisons are.... He said
> also when he could get it started and rode it, it got hot.
>
> I'm thinkin if the front cylinder dials in the same I'll retard the cam
> timing to get the intake closing 56~58 and play with that, and a call
> to Andrews&Baisley on Monday to see if they are handing out any clues.
> But maybe someone here, has been there, and wouldn,t mind shareing
> while they drink on my tab.
Found an online calculator. http :// www .wallaceracing,com /dynamic-cr.php
At 50 degrees it has,
Static compression ratio of 8.5:1.
Effective stroke is 3.90 inches.
Your dynamic compression ratio is 7.30:1 .
Your dynamic cranking pressure is 141.08 PSI.
Your dynamic boost compression ratio, reflecting static c.r., cam
timing, altitude, and boost of 0 PSI is 7.30 :1.
V/P (Volume to Pressure Index) is 32
At 56 degrees it has,
Static compression ratio of 8.5:1.
Effective stroke is 3.74 inches.
Your dynamic compression ratio is 7.03:1 .
Your dynamic cranking pressure is 134.26 PSI.
Your dynamic boost compression ratio, reflecting static c.r., cam
timing, altitude, and boost of 0 PSI is 7.03 :1.
V/P (Volume to Pressure Index) is 29
And just for giggles 58 degrees
Static compression ratio of 8.5:1.
Effective stroke is 3.69 inches.
Your dynamic compression ratio is 6.95:1 .
Your dynamic cranking pressure is 132.25 PSI.
Your dynamic boost compression ratio, reflecting static c.r., cam
timing, altitude, and boost of 0 PSI is 6.95 :1.
V/P (Volume to Pressure Index) is 28
This is all assuming,
Number of Cylinders : 2
Bore in Inches : 3.5
Stroke in Inches : 4.5
Rod Length in Inches : 7.5
******** Static Compression Ratio : 8.5(:1) *********
Boost Pressure in PSI : 0
Target Altitude : 1000(Feet)
Gotta dig into the catalogs and see if the static C/R is correct.
Whoaaaa there big fella!!!!!!
That intake closing # is advertised duration (@.053 lift)!
Back to the garage...........
--
Ryder Rick
On 2008-05-18 22:58:27 -0700, Rick Begeman <rickb794@gmail,com > said:
> Trying to figure out a stroker shovelhead. Brought to me with starter
> problems. Seems the problem goes deeper as I was not able to kick it
> through (ignition off). Got 90 lbs just bouncing on the kicker.
> 'Lectric start is junked, but I figger if I can't kick it a new starter
> is just gonna get smoked. So I got to looking at the cam timing.
>
> It has an Andrews #6 which should be the right cam, but the intake is
> closing 6 degrees earlier than advertised (50 intead of 56after). Will
> 6 degrees make that much difference? The really strange part is the
> intake is not opening 6 early. And the (measured) exhaust #'s are very
> close to advertised. Don't know if I got a bad grind, or are they
> staggering the rear cylinder timing (that's the one I'm checking on,
> can't see the dial indicator on the front cylinder with the carb on).
> Guess I need a second set of eyes to check the front one.
>
> I measured 4 5/8 stroke (marking on a screwdriver) and the cylinders
> are marked S&S 80. I guess I could decode the flywheel markings for
> confirmation, but I still don't know what the pisons are.... He said
> also when he could get it started and rode it, it got hot.
>
> I'm thinkin if the front cylinder dials in the same I'll retard the cam
> timing to get the intake closing 56~58 and play with that, and a call
> to Andrews&Baisley on Monday to see if they are handing out any clues.
> But maybe someone here, has been there, and wouldn,t mind shareing
> while they drink on my tab.
Found an online calculator. http :// www .wallaceracing,com /dynamic-cr.php
At 50 degrees it has,
Static compression ratio of 8.5:1.
Effective stroke is 3.90 inches.
Your dynamic compression ratio is 7.30:1 .
Your dynamic cranking pressure is 141.08 PSI.
Your dynamic boost compression ratio, reflecting static c.r., cam
timing, altitude, and boost of 0 PSI is 7.30 :1.
V/P (Volume to Pressure Index) is 32
At 56 degrees it has,
Static compression ratio of 8.5:1.
Effective stroke is 3.74 inches.
Your dynamic compression ratio is 7.03:1 .
Your dynamic cranking pressure is 134.26 PSI.
Your dynamic boost compression ratio, reflecting static c.r., cam
timing, altitude, and boost of 0 PSI is 7.03 :1.
V/P (Volume to Pressure Index) is 29
And just for giggles 58 degrees
Static compression ratio of 8.5:1.
Effective stroke is 3.69 inches.
Your dynamic compression ratio is 6.95:1 .
Your dynamic cranking pressure is 132.25 PSI.
Your dynamic boost compression ratio, reflecting static c.r., cam
timing, altitude, and boost of 0 PSI is 6.95 :1.
V/P (Volume to Pressure Index) is 28
This is all assuming,
Number of Cylinders : 2
Bore in Inches : 3.5
Stroke in Inches : 4.5
Rod Length in Inches : 7.5
******** Static Compression Ratio : 8.5(:1) *********
Boost Pressure in PSI : 0
Target Altitude : 1000(Feet)
Gotta dig into the catalogs and see if the static C/R is correct.
Whoaaaa there big fella!!!!!!
That intake closing # is advertised duration (@.053 lift)!
Back to the garage...........
--
Ryder Rick
