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Muwahahahahahaha!
Re: Muwahahahahahaha!
Roger Elmore wrote:
> And with that, a big nod of appreciation to Spunky and Mrs. Mouse for
> their hospitality the two evenings last week I wasn't learning about
> the state of the telephone industry (and drinking free booze on
> University time), although a mile away is about an hour's ride to a
> country boy in the big city during rush hour who thinks he remembers
> the route after he followed his host a couple of days before. The
> hangover didn't help. <g>
It was a pleasure to have you here. Dunno what kind of mojo you've got,
but Rita wanted to follow you down the street until you were out of
ear-shot. You definitely won over Rita and the boys. You're welcome
here any time.
> FWIW, the decision not to head back through the big red blob on the
> weather maps on Thu but instead head to PCola to mooch off the inlaws
> then head north Fri seemed to be a good one. I didn't see massive
> devastation in Tupelo (a blue highway sign showing food available
> broke over at an exit near the mall was about it), but I would have
> been holed-up somewhere along the route waiting for weather to clear
> plus having to justify the extra cost of the room to the bean-counters
> for reimbursement.
We were wondering about that yesterday, hoping you got home safe and dry.
--
Spunky Hussein Tuna
radical ChristoIslamic fundamentalist Pescasupremacist...
but not at all bitter
Roger Elmore wrote:
> And with that, a big nod of appreciation to Spunky and Mrs. Mouse for
> their hospitality the two evenings last week I wasn't learning about
> the state of the telephone industry (and drinking free booze on
> University time), although a mile away is about an hour's ride to a
> country boy in the big city during rush hour who thinks he remembers
> the route after he followed his host a couple of days before. The
> hangover didn't help. <g>
It was a pleasure to have you here. Dunno what kind of mojo you've got,
but Rita wanted to follow you down the street until you were out of
ear-shot. You definitely won over Rita and the boys. You're welcome
here any time.
> FWIW, the decision not to head back through the big red blob on the
> weather maps on Thu but instead head to PCola to mooch off the inlaws
> then head north Fri seemed to be a good one. I didn't see massive
> devastation in Tupelo (a blue highway sign showing food available
> broke over at an exit near the mall was about it), but I would have
> been holed-up somewhere along the route waiting for weather to clear
> plus having to justify the extra cost of the room to the bean-counters
> for reimbursement.
We were wondering about that yesterday, hoping you got home safe and dry.
--
Spunky Hussein Tuna
radical ChristoIslamic fundamentalist Pescasupremacist...
but not at all bitter
Re: Muwahahahahahaha!
Spunky Hussein Tuna wrote:
>Dunno what kind of mojo you've got, but Rita wanted to follow
>you down the street until you were out of ear-shot.
It's either my calm assertive leadership, or else my animal magnetism.
<sfsf>
--
Roger
AH#119
http :// rideto.mambm,com
Spunky Hussein Tuna wrote:
>Dunno what kind of mojo you've got, but Rita wanted to follow
>you down the street until you were out of ear-shot.
It's either my calm assertive leadership, or else my animal magnetism.
<sfsf>
--
Roger
AH#119
http :// rideto.mambm,com
Re: Muwahahahahahaha!
Roger Elmore wrote:
> Spunky Hussein Tuna wrote:
>> Dunno what kind of mojo you've got, but Rita wanted to follow
>> you down the street until you were out of ear-shot.
>
> It's either my calm assertive leadership, or else my animal magnetism.
> <sfsf>
Hmm. You can magnetize iron by rubbing it with a magnet. Do you get
animal magnetism by rubbing yourself with animals?
Not at all sure I'm completely comfortable with all the possible
permutations of that, to tell you the truth.
--
Spunky Hussein Tuna
radical ChristoIslamic fundamentalist Pescasupremacist...
but not at all bitter
Roger Elmore wrote:
> Spunky Hussein Tuna wrote:
>> Dunno what kind of mojo you've got, but Rita wanted to follow
>> you down the street until you were out of ear-shot.
>
> It's either my calm assertive leadership, or else my animal magnetism.
> <sfsf>
Hmm. You can magnetize iron by rubbing it with a magnet. Do you get
animal magnetism by rubbing yourself with animals?
Not at all sure I'm completely comfortable with all the possible
permutations of that, to tell you the truth.
--
Spunky Hussein Tuna
radical ChristoIslamic fundamentalist Pescasupremacist...
but not at all bitter
Re: Muwahahahahahaha!
Spunky Hussein Tuna wrote:
> Got tired of debating with myself over whether to pull the drivetrain
> out of the former Stokely and put it into the gnu Stokely or not.
>
> I'd heard mixed reviews about a place called Demon's Cycle in Pompano
> Beach, FL. Great prices on Ultima engines and trannys, but very mixed
> comments on their customer service. Operating on the dual presumptions
> that:
>
> a. it's a bit harder to fuck with somebody face to face than it is
> through e-mail and
> b. I'm not without a certain native charm when I want and can often
> shmooze and ease things along in person
>
> I drove down to Pompano Beach today (damn, that place was farther than I
> realized) and bought a gnu engine and tranny.
>
> So now I have a 113" engine and a 6 speed tranny for the gnu bike. Can't
> wait to fire it up! I can't believe how much nicer the Ultima engine
> seems than the S&S. The castings are cleaner looking and have a finer
> grain, there are more machined areas and the machining of things like
> the mounting pads and fin edges are very impressive on the Ultima engine.
>
> I know that Jinks has had real good things to say about his Ultima, and
> that was a big factor in my decision to this route rather than a crate
> Evo or an S&S. From a purely aesthetic perspective, it's a hell of a
> nice engine and it comes with a big Mikuni carb (which is way more
> tunable than an S&S carb, which means I have much more opportunities to
> completely fuck it up) ignition already installed, manual compression
> releases already installed, two piece rocker boxes, and so on. Just a
> really, really nice engine. If it runs anything like as good as it
> looks, I'll be a happy guy. It's rated as having about the same torque
> as the 113" S&S and a bit more horsepower, so it ought to be big fun.
There ya go, sounds like you outta have plenty of power. Take a lot of
pictures...
Les
Spunky Hussein Tuna wrote:
> Got tired of debating with myself over whether to pull the drivetrain
> out of the former Stokely and put it into the gnu Stokely or not.
>
> I'd heard mixed reviews about a place called Demon's Cycle in Pompano
> Beach, FL. Great prices on Ultima engines and trannys, but very mixed
> comments on their customer service. Operating on the dual presumptions
> that:
>
> a. it's a bit harder to fuck with somebody face to face than it is
> through e-mail and
> b. I'm not without a certain native charm when I want and can often
> shmooze and ease things along in person
>
> I drove down to Pompano Beach today (damn, that place was farther than I
> realized) and bought a gnu engine and tranny.
>
> So now I have a 113" engine and a 6 speed tranny for the gnu bike. Can't
> wait to fire it up! I can't believe how much nicer the Ultima engine
> seems than the S&S. The castings are cleaner looking and have a finer
> grain, there are more machined areas and the machining of things like
> the mounting pads and fin edges are very impressive on the Ultima engine.
>
> I know that Jinks has had real good things to say about his Ultima, and
> that was a big factor in my decision to this route rather than a crate
> Evo or an S&S. From a purely aesthetic perspective, it's a hell of a
> nice engine and it comes with a big Mikuni carb (which is way more
> tunable than an S&S carb, which means I have much more opportunities to
> completely fuck it up) ignition already installed, manual compression
> releases already installed, two piece rocker boxes, and so on. Just a
> really, really nice engine. If it runs anything like as good as it
> looks, I'll be a happy guy. It's rated as having about the same torque
> as the 113" S&S and a bit more horsepower, so it ought to be big fun.
There ya go, sounds like you outta have plenty of power. Take a lot of
pictures...
Les
Re: Muwahahahahahaha!
On Mon, 05 May 2008 23:46:30 -0400, Spunky Hussein Tuna
<spunkyhusseintuna@earthlink,net > wrote:
...<snip>
>
>So now I have a 113" engine and a 6 speed tranny for the gnu bike.
>Can't wait to fire it up!
Just heave that sukka on in there Spunky! Don't bite your cigar in
half <G>.
I have a new motor (96" S&S) to revive an old bike also. I left the
stock tranny in place though. So what else are you planning to do
while yer in there? My bike is a 1990 FLHS with 40K miles that pulls
a sidecar much of the time. I think a new exhaust is probably a good
idea, since the old one is junk and the old-style flanges leak at the
muffler joint, and the mufflers are blue and rusty. Now that the bike
is up off the ground, I see there is a lot of rust on the frame and
swingarm too. I just have some rustoleum paint and primer. Is there
a better way to address rust spots on a frame? Not EVEN gonna strip
the bike and repaint. Learned my lesson on that one.
conehead ah00010
On Mon, 05 May 2008 23:46:30 -0400, Spunky Hussein Tuna
<spunkyhusseintuna@earthlink,net > wrote:
...<snip>
>
>So now I have a 113" engine and a 6 speed tranny for the gnu bike.
>Can't wait to fire it up!
Just heave that sukka on in there Spunky! Don't bite your cigar in
half <G>.
I have a new motor (96" S&S) to revive an old bike also. I left the
stock tranny in place though. So what else are you planning to do
while yer in there? My bike is a 1990 FLHS with 40K miles that pulls
a sidecar much of the time. I think a new exhaust is probably a good
idea, since the old one is junk and the old-style flanges leak at the
muffler joint, and the mufflers are blue and rusty. Now that the bike
is up off the ground, I see there is a lot of rust on the frame and
swingarm too. I just have some rustoleum paint and primer. Is there
a better way to address rust spots on a frame? Not EVEN gonna strip
the bike and repaint. Learned my lesson on that one.
conehead ah00010
Re: Muwahahahahahaha!
In article <4821b8c9.510547890@news.fuse,net >,
mcron@ruse,net (conehead) wrote:
> On Mon, 05 May 2008 23:46:30 -0400, Spunky Hussein Tuna
> <spunkyhusseintuna@earthlink,net > wrote:
>
> ...<snip>
> >
> >So now I have a 113" engine and a 6 speed tranny for the gnu bike.
> >Can't wait to fire it up!
>
> Just heave that sukka on in there Spunky! Don't bite your cigar in
> half <G>.
>
> I have a new motor (96" S&S) to revive an old bike also. I left the
> stock tranny in place though. So what else are you planning to do
> while yer in there? My bike is a 1990 FLHS with 40K miles that pulls
> a sidecar much of the time. I think a new exhaust is probably a good
> idea, since the old one is junk and the old-style flanges leak at the
> muffler joint, and the mufflers are blue and rusty. Now that the bike
> is up off the ground, I see there is a lot of rust on the frame and
> swingarm too. I just have some rustoleum paint and primer. Is there
> a better way to address rust spots on a frame? Not EVEN gonna strip
> the bike and repaint. Learned my lesson on that one.
>
> conehead ah00010
My cousin uses some stuff he calls "POR" "paint over rust" might be the
ticket for you.
I prefer to reduce it to the basic components and give the rusty bits to
the powder coater. (if they don't come back much improved find another
powder coater!)
--
Ryder Rick
In article <4821b8c9.510547890@news.fuse,net >,
mcron@ruse,net (conehead) wrote:
> On Mon, 05 May 2008 23:46:30 -0400, Spunky Hussein Tuna
> <spunkyhusseintuna@earthlink,net > wrote:
>
> ...<snip>
> >
> >So now I have a 113" engine and a 6 speed tranny for the gnu bike.
> >Can't wait to fire it up!
>
> Just heave that sukka on in there Spunky! Don't bite your cigar in
> half <G>.
>
> I have a new motor (96" S&S) to revive an old bike also. I left the
> stock tranny in place though. So what else are you planning to do
> while yer in there? My bike is a 1990 FLHS with 40K miles that pulls
> a sidecar much of the time. I think a new exhaust is probably a good
> idea, since the old one is junk and the old-style flanges leak at the
> muffler joint, and the mufflers are blue and rusty. Now that the bike
> is up off the ground, I see there is a lot of rust on the frame and
> swingarm too. I just have some rustoleum paint and primer. Is there
> a better way to address rust spots on a frame? Not EVEN gonna strip
> the bike and repaint. Learned my lesson on that one.
>
> conehead ah00010
My cousin uses some stuff he calls "POR" "paint over rust" might be the
ticket for you.
I prefer to reduce it to the basic components and give the rusty bits to
the powder coater. (if they don't come back much improved find another
powder coater!)
--
Ryder Rick
Re: Muwahahahahahaha!
Rick Begeman wrote:
> In article <4821b8c9.510547890@news.fuse,net >,
> mcron@ruse,net (conehead) wrote:
>
>> On Mon, 05 May 2008 23:46:30 -0400, Spunky Hussein Tuna
>> <spunkyhusseintuna@earthlink,net > wrote:
>>
>> ...<snip>
>>> So now I have a 113" engine and a 6 speed tranny for the gnu bike.
>>> Can't wait to fire it up!
>> Just heave that sukka on in there Spunky! Don't bite your cigar in
>> half <G>.
>>
>> I have a new motor (96" S&S) to revive an old bike also. I left the
>> stock tranny in place though. So what else are you planning to do
>> while yer in there? My bike is a 1990 FLHS with 40K miles that pulls
>> a sidecar much of the time. I think a new exhaust is probably a good
>> idea, since the old one is junk and the old-style flanges leak at the
>> muffler joint, and the mufflers are blue and rusty. Now that the bike
>> is up off the ground, I see there is a lot of rust on the frame and
>> swingarm too. I just have some rustoleum paint and primer. Is there
>> a better way to address rust spots on a frame? Not EVEN gonna strip
>> the bike and repaint. Learned my lesson on that one.
>>
>> conehead ah00010
>
> My cousin uses some stuff he calls "POR" "paint over rust" might be the
> ticket for you.
>
> I prefer to reduce it to the basic components and give the rusty bits to
> the powder coater. (if they don't come back much improved find another
> powder coater!)
Phosphoric acid is supposed to do a good job on rust, too. Brush it on,
let it work, scrub it off with steel wool, prime, paint.
--
Spunky Hussein Tuna
radical ChristoIslamic fundamentalist Pescasupremacist...
but not at all bitter
Rick Begeman wrote:
> In article <4821b8c9.510547890@news.fuse,net >,
> mcron@ruse,net (conehead) wrote:
>
>> On Mon, 05 May 2008 23:46:30 -0400, Spunky Hussein Tuna
>> <spunkyhusseintuna@earthlink,net > wrote:
>>
>> ...<snip>
>>> So now I have a 113" engine and a 6 speed tranny for the gnu bike.
>>> Can't wait to fire it up!
>> Just heave that sukka on in there Spunky! Don't bite your cigar in
>> half <G>.
>>
>> I have a new motor (96" S&S) to revive an old bike also. I left the
>> stock tranny in place though. So what else are you planning to do
>> while yer in there? My bike is a 1990 FLHS with 40K miles that pulls
>> a sidecar much of the time. I think a new exhaust is probably a good
>> idea, since the old one is junk and the old-style flanges leak at the
>> muffler joint, and the mufflers are blue and rusty. Now that the bike
>> is up off the ground, I see there is a lot of rust on the frame and
>> swingarm too. I just have some rustoleum paint and primer. Is there
>> a better way to address rust spots on a frame? Not EVEN gonna strip
>> the bike and repaint. Learned my lesson on that one.
>>
>> conehead ah00010
>
> My cousin uses some stuff he calls "POR" "paint over rust" might be the
> ticket for you.
>
> I prefer to reduce it to the basic components and give the rusty bits to
> the powder coater. (if they don't come back much improved find another
> powder coater!)
Phosphoric acid is supposed to do a good job on rust, too. Brush it on,
let it work, scrub it off with steel wool, prime, paint.
--
Spunky Hussein Tuna
radical ChristoIslamic fundamentalist Pescasupremacist...
but not at all bitter
Re: Muwahahahahahaha!
On Thu, 08 May 2008 00:09:10 -0400, Spunky Hussein Tuna
<spunkyhusseintuna@earthlink,net > wrote:
>Rick Begeman wrote:
>> In article <4821b8c9.510547890@news.fuse,net >,
>> mcron@ruse,net (conehead) wrote:
>>
>>> On Mon, 05 May 2008 23:46:30 -0400, Spunky Hussein Tuna
>>> <spunkyhusseintuna@earthlink,net > wrote:
>>>
>>> ...<snip>
>>>> So now I have a 113" engine and a 6 speed tranny for the gnu bike.
>>>> Can't wait to fire it up!
>>> Just heave that sukka on in there Spunky! Don't bite your cigar in
>>> half <G>.
>>>
>>> I have a new motor (96" S&S) to revive an old bike also. I left the
>>> stock tranny in place though. So what else are you planning to do
>>> while yer in there? My bike is a 1990 FLHS with 40K miles that pulls
>>> a sidecar much of the time. I think a new exhaust is probably a good
>>> idea, since the old one is junk and the old-style flanges leak at the
>>> muffler joint, and the mufflers are blue and rusty. Now that the bike
>>> is up off the ground, I see there is a lot of rust on the frame and
>>> swingarm too. I just have some rustoleum paint and primer. Is there
>>> a better way to address rust spots on a frame? Not EVEN gonna strip
>>> the bike and repaint. Learned my lesson on that one.
>>>
>>> conehead ah00010
>>
>> My cousin uses some stuff he calls "POR" "paint over rust" might be the
>> ticket for you.
>>
>> I prefer to reduce it to the basic components and give the rusty bits to
>> the powder coater. (if they don't come back much improved find another
>> powder coater!)
>
>Phosphoric acid is supposed to do a good job on rust, too. Brush it on,
>let it work, scrub it off with steel wool, prime, paint.
We've tried that at work, but the results left a lot to be desired.
If we've got to paint somewhere rusty that we can't sandblast first,
we use the POR-15 and then prime and paint over the top of it.
Still no substitution for doing it the right way, though.
--
Old Crow
'82 FLTC(P)
'95 Wrangler YJ
BS#132, TOMKAT, SENS, SLOB#13
** Posted from http :// www .teranews,com **
On Thu, 08 May 2008 00:09:10 -0400, Spunky Hussein Tuna
<spunkyhusseintuna@earthlink,net > wrote:
>Rick Begeman wrote:
>> In article <4821b8c9.510547890@news.fuse,net >,
>> mcron@ruse,net (conehead) wrote:
>>
>>> On Mon, 05 May 2008 23:46:30 -0400, Spunky Hussein Tuna
>>> <spunkyhusseintuna@earthlink,net > wrote:
>>>
>>> ...<snip>
>>>> So now I have a 113" engine and a 6 speed tranny for the gnu bike.
>>>> Can't wait to fire it up!
>>> Just heave that sukka on in there Spunky! Don't bite your cigar in
>>> half <G>.
>>>
>>> I have a new motor (96" S&S) to revive an old bike also. I left the
>>> stock tranny in place though. So what else are you planning to do
>>> while yer in there? My bike is a 1990 FLHS with 40K miles that pulls
>>> a sidecar much of the time. I think a new exhaust is probably a good
>>> idea, since the old one is junk and the old-style flanges leak at the
>>> muffler joint, and the mufflers are blue and rusty. Now that the bike
>>> is up off the ground, I see there is a lot of rust on the frame and
>>> swingarm too. I just have some rustoleum paint and primer. Is there
>>> a better way to address rust spots on a frame? Not EVEN gonna strip
>>> the bike and repaint. Learned my lesson on that one.
>>>
>>> conehead ah00010
>>
>> My cousin uses some stuff he calls "POR" "paint over rust" might be the
>> ticket for you.
>>
>> I prefer to reduce it to the basic components and give the rusty bits to
>> the powder coater. (if they don't come back much improved find another
>> powder coater!)
>
>Phosphoric acid is supposed to do a good job on rust, too. Brush it on,
>let it work, scrub it off with steel wool, prime, paint.
We've tried that at work, but the results left a lot to be desired.
If we've got to paint somewhere rusty that we can't sandblast first,
we use the POR-15 and then prime and paint over the top of it.
Still no substitution for doing it the right way, though.
--
Old Crow
'82 FLTC(P)
'95 Wrangler YJ
BS#132, TOMKAT, SENS, SLOB#13
** Posted from http :// www .teranews,com **
Re: Muwahahahahahaha!
Old Crow wrote...
> Spunky Hussein Tuna wrote:
>>Rick Begeman wrote:
On the topic of Conehead's rusty frame:
>>> My cousin uses some stuff he calls "POR" "paint over rust" might be the
>>> ticket for you.
>>Phosphoric acid is supposed to do a good job on rust, too. Brush it on,
>>let it work, scrub it off with steel wool, prime, paint.
>
> We've tried that at work, but the results left a lot to be desired.
> If we've got to paint somewhere rusty that we can't sandblast first,
> we use the POR-15 and then prime and paint over the top of it.
So if you've got a rusty spot, which we'll assume water has gotten into, how
does POR-15 prevent further rusting below the coating?
Let's say for example you have a seem, for example like the one on this rear
fender:
http :// tinyurl,com /2c9odj
As you can see there is some rusty discoloration along the seam. Now assume
there is some moisture trapped in there, will POR-15 still prevent further
rusting? The fender isn't a big concern, but there's a bigger seam all
along the hack that is much worse than the fender. My plan is to have the
inside of the hack and trunk completely coated (lot's a water pools up here
in the winter) and also do the bottom of the hack and keep going about an
inch higher than the seam. My first thought was truck bed liner, like Rhino
Liner, but my concern is that this may just trap water between it and the
metal, plus it may fill in some holes that may need drilling out, exposing
the metal again and giving the water a place to take hold and then spread.
On the other hand, truck bed liner would also serve as a good protector
against flying rocks and such on the underside of the hack. I'm a lazy,
lazy guy, so the thought of sanding things down first does not appeal to me,
but that may be necessary. The floor of the trunk and hack have a good
layer of rust in spots that should likely be removed before applying
anything.
I've lost my train of thought. Time for a drink.
--
Tud
SENS BS#111 LFS#32 FLF MISFIT Vermort AH#115
http :// ah115,com
Sisyphus rides a Triumph
Old Crow wrote...
> Spunky Hussein Tuna wrote:
>>Rick Begeman wrote:
On the topic of Conehead's rusty frame:
>>> My cousin uses some stuff he calls "POR" "paint over rust" might be the
>>> ticket for you.
>>Phosphoric acid is supposed to do a good job on rust, too. Brush it on,
>>let it work, scrub it off with steel wool, prime, paint.
>
> We've tried that at work, but the results left a lot to be desired.
> If we've got to paint somewhere rusty that we can't sandblast first,
> we use the POR-15 and then prime and paint over the top of it.
So if you've got a rusty spot, which we'll assume water has gotten into, how
does POR-15 prevent further rusting below the coating?
Let's say for example you have a seem, for example like the one on this rear
fender:
http :// tinyurl,com /2c9odj
As you can see there is some rusty discoloration along the seam. Now assume
there is some moisture trapped in there, will POR-15 still prevent further
rusting? The fender isn't a big concern, but there's a bigger seam all
along the hack that is much worse than the fender. My plan is to have the
inside of the hack and trunk completely coated (lot's a water pools up here
in the winter) and also do the bottom of the hack and keep going about an
inch higher than the seam. My first thought was truck bed liner, like Rhino
Liner, but my concern is that this may just trap water between it and the
metal, plus it may fill in some holes that may need drilling out, exposing
the metal again and giving the water a place to take hold and then spread.
On the other hand, truck bed liner would also serve as a good protector
against flying rocks and such on the underside of the hack. I'm a lazy,
lazy guy, so the thought of sanding things down first does not appeal to me,
but that may be necessary. The floor of the trunk and hack have a good
layer of rust in spots that should likely be removed before applying
anything.
I've lost my train of thought. Time for a drink.
--
Tud
SENS BS#111 LFS#32 FLF MISFIT Vermort AH#115
http :// ah115,com
Sisyphus rides a Triumph
Re: Muwahahahahahaha!
Tud wrote:
> Old Crow wrote...
>> Spunky Hussein Tuna wrote:
>>> Rick Begeman wrote:
>
> On the topic of Conehead's rusty frame:
>
>>>> My cousin uses some stuff he calls "POR" "paint over rust" might be the
>>>> ticket for you.
>
>>> Phosphoric acid is supposed to do a good job on rust, too. Brush it on,
>>> let it work, scrub it off with steel wool, prime, paint.
>>
>> We've tried that at work, but the results left a lot to be desired.
>> If we've got to paint somewhere rusty that we can't sandblast first,
>> we use the POR-15 and then prime and paint over the top of it.
>
> So if you've got a rusty spot, which we'll assume water has gotten into,
> how does POR-15 prevent further rusting below the coating?
<snip>
http :// www .npl.co.uk/upload/pdf/beginners guide to corrosion.pdf
--
JMark
Tud wrote:
> Old Crow wrote...
>> Spunky Hussein Tuna wrote:
>>> Rick Begeman wrote:
>
> On the topic of Conehead's rusty frame:
>
>>>> My cousin uses some stuff he calls "POR" "paint over rust" might be the
>>>> ticket for you.
>
>>> Phosphoric acid is supposed to do a good job on rust, too. Brush it on,
>>> let it work, scrub it off with steel wool, prime, paint.
>>
>> We've tried that at work, but the results left a lot to be desired.
>> If we've got to paint somewhere rusty that we can't sandblast first,
>> we use the POR-15 and then prime and paint over the top of it.
>
> So if you've got a rusty spot, which we'll assume water has gotten into,
> how does POR-15 prevent further rusting below the coating?
<snip>
http :// www .npl.co.uk/upload/pdf/beginners guide to corrosion.pdf
--
JMark
Re: Muwahahahahahaha!
On May 8, 8:42 am, JMark <w...@noaddy.rom> wrote:
> Tud wrote:
> > Old Crow wrote...
> >> Spunky Hussein Tuna wrote:
> >>> Rick Begeman wrote:
>
> > On the topic of Conehead's rusty frame:
>
> >>>> My cousin uses some stuff he calls "POR" "paint over rust" might be the
> >>>> ticket for you.
>
> >>> Phosphoric acid is supposed to do a good job on rust, too. Brush it on,
> >>> let it work, scrub it off with steel wool, prime, paint.
>
> >> We've tried that at work, but the results left a lot to be desired.
> >> If we've got to paint somewhere rusty that we can't sandblast first,
> >> we use the POR-15 and then prime and paint over the top of it.
>
> > So if you've got a rusty spot, which we'll assume water has gotten into,
> > how does POR-15 prevent further rusting below the coating?
>
> <snip>
>
> http :// www .npl.co.uk/upload/pdf/beginners guide to corrosion.pdf
>
> --
> JMark
I found that quite informative, but I can assure you that Tud's eyes
glossed over and he started thinking about big breasted women by the
second paragraph.
Personally, where not a functional problem, I like the look of rust -
but perhaps I'm just
more artistic than Tud :)
http :// craftmonkeys.typepad,com /photos/e t c /rusty bike sm.html
When it becomes a functional issue replace said part.
Bep
On May 8, 8:42 am, JMark <w...@noaddy.rom> wrote:
> Tud wrote:
> > Old Crow wrote...
> >> Spunky Hussein Tuna wrote:
> >>> Rick Begeman wrote:
>
> > On the topic of Conehead's rusty frame:
>
> >>>> My cousin uses some stuff he calls "POR" "paint over rust" might be the
> >>>> ticket for you.
>
> >>> Phosphoric acid is supposed to do a good job on rust, too. Brush it on,
> >>> let it work, scrub it off with steel wool, prime, paint.
>
> >> We've tried that at work, but the results left a lot to be desired.
> >> If we've got to paint somewhere rusty that we can't sandblast first,
> >> we use the POR-15 and then prime and paint over the top of it.
>
> > So if you've got a rusty spot, which we'll assume water has gotten into,
> > how does POR-15 prevent further rusting below the coating?
>
> <snip>
>
> http :// www .npl.co.uk/upload/pdf/beginners guide to corrosion.pdf
>
> --
> JMark
I found that quite informative, but I can assure you that Tud's eyes
glossed over and he started thinking about big breasted women by the
second paragraph.
Personally, where not a functional problem, I like the look of rust -
but perhaps I'm just
more artistic than Tud :)
http :// craftmonkeys.typepad,com /photos/e t c /rusty bike sm.html
When it becomes a functional issue replace said part.
Bep
Re: Muwahahahahahaha!
Bep wrote...
> On May 8, 8:42 am, JMark <w...@noaddy.rom> wrote:
>> Tud wrote:
>> > Old Crow wrote...
>> >> Spunky Hussein Tuna wrote:
>> >>> Rick Begeman wrote:
>>
>> > On the topic of Conehead's rusty frame:
>>
>> >>>> My cousin uses some stuff he calls "POR" "paint over rust" might be
>> >>>> the
>> >>>> ticket for you.
>>
>> >>> Phosphoric acid is supposed to do a good job on rust, too. Brush it
>> >>> on,
>> >>> let it work, scrub it off with steel wool, prime, paint.
>>
>> >> We've tried that at work, but the results left a lot to be desired.
>> >> If we've got to paint somewhere rusty that we can't sandblast first,
>> >> we use the POR-15 and then prime and paint over the top of it.
>>
>> > So if you've got a rusty spot, which we'll assume water has gotten
>> > into,
>> > how does POR-15 prevent further rusting below the coating?
>>
>> <snip>
>>
>> http :// www .npl.co.uk/upload/pdf/beginners guide to corrosion.pdf
>>
>> --
>> JMark
>
> I found that quite informative, but I can assure you that Tud's eyes
> glossed over and he started thinking about big breasted women by the
> second paragraph.
>
> Personally, where not a functional problem, I like the look of rust -
> but perhaps I'm just more artistic than Tud :)
>
> http :// craftmonkeys.typepad,com /photos/e t c /rusty bike sm.html
A fine example of "uniform corrosion", but uniform corrosion is not what I'm
concerned with, my concern is more with concentration cell corrosion. Had
there not been a seam and the joint were welded, as a suggestion as a method
of prevention, then all would be good. My question deals not with what type
of corrosion I'm suffering, but more with point 3 in section 3.7, the use of
sealants and which application might be preferable.
> When it becomes a functional issue replace said part.
It's not currently a functional issue, but if left alone it may become one,
and I'm not about to replace the hack if all I need to do is prevent further
corrosion.
And yeah, you're artisitic.
--
Tud
SENS BS#111 LFS#32 FLF MISFIT Vermort AH#115
http :// ah115,com
Sisyphus rides a Triumph
Bep wrote...
> On May 8, 8:42 am, JMark <w...@noaddy.rom> wrote:
>> Tud wrote:
>> > Old Crow wrote...
>> >> Spunky Hussein Tuna wrote:
>> >>> Rick Begeman wrote:
>>
>> > On the topic of Conehead's rusty frame:
>>
>> >>>> My cousin uses some stuff he calls "POR" "paint over rust" might be
>> >>>> the
>> >>>> ticket for you.
>>
>> >>> Phosphoric acid is supposed to do a good job on rust, too. Brush it
>> >>> on,
>> >>> let it work, scrub it off with steel wool, prime, paint.
>>
>> >> We've tried that at work, but the results left a lot to be desired.
>> >> If we've got to paint somewhere rusty that we can't sandblast first,
>> >> we use the POR-15 and then prime and paint over the top of it.
>>
>> > So if you've got a rusty spot, which we'll assume water has gotten
>> > into,
>> > how does POR-15 prevent further rusting below the coating?
>>
>> <snip>
>>
>> http :// www .npl.co.uk/upload/pdf/beginners guide to corrosion.pdf
>>
>> --
>> JMark
>
> I found that quite informative, but I can assure you that Tud's eyes
> glossed over and he started thinking about big breasted women by the
> second paragraph.
>
> Personally, where not a functional problem, I like the look of rust -
> but perhaps I'm just more artistic than Tud :)
>
> http :// craftmonkeys.typepad,com /photos/e t c /rusty bike sm.html
A fine example of "uniform corrosion", but uniform corrosion is not what I'm
concerned with, my concern is more with concentration cell corrosion. Had
there not been a seam and the joint were welded, as a suggestion as a method
of prevention, then all would be good. My question deals not with what type
of corrosion I'm suffering, but more with point 3 in section 3.7, the use of
sealants and which application might be preferable.
> When it becomes a functional issue replace said part.
It's not currently a functional issue, but if left alone it may become one,
and I'm not about to replace the hack if all I need to do is prevent further
corrosion.
And yeah, you're artisitic.
--
Tud
SENS BS#111 LFS#32 FLF MISFIT Vermort AH#115
http :// ah115,com
Sisyphus rides a Triumph
Re: Muwahahahahahaha!
Tud wrote:
> Bep wrote...
>> On May 8, 8:42 am, JMark <w...@noaddy.rom> wrote:
>>> Tud wrote:
>>> > Old Crow wrote...
>>> >> Spunky Hussein Tuna wrote:
>>> >>> Rick Begeman wrote:
>>>
>>> > On the topic of Conehead's rusty frame:
>>>
>>> >>>> My cousin uses some stuff he calls "POR" "paint over rust" might
>>> be >>>> the
>>> >>>> ticket for you.
>>>
>>> >>> Phosphoric acid is supposed to do a good job on rust, too. Brush
>>> it >>> on,
>>> >>> let it work, scrub it off with steel wool, prime, paint.
>>>
>>> >> We've tried that at work, but the results left a lot to be desired.
>>> >> If we've got to paint somewhere rusty that we can't sandblast first,
>>> >> we use the POR-15 and then prime and paint over the top of it.
>>>
>>> > So if you've got a rusty spot, which we'll assume water has gotten
>>> > into,
>>> > how does POR-15 prevent further rusting below the coating?
>>>
>>> <snip>
>>>
>>> http :// www .npl.co.uk/upload/pdf/beginners guide to corrosion.pdf
>>>
>>> --
>>> JMark
>>
>> I found that quite informative, but I can assure you that Tud's eyes
>> glossed over and he started thinking about big breasted women by the
>> second paragraph.
>>
>> Personally, where not a functional problem, I like the look of rust -
>> but perhaps I'm just more artistic than Tud :)
>>
>> http :// craftmonkeys.typepad,com /photos/e t c /rusty bike sm.html
>
> A fine example of "uniform corrosion", but uniform corrosion is not what
> I'm concerned with, my concern is more with concentration cell
> corrosion. Had there not been a seam and the joint were welded, as a
> suggestion as a method of prevention, then all would be good. My
> question deals not with what type of corrosion I'm suffering, but more
> with point 3 in section 3.7, the use of sealants and which application
> might be preferable.
>
>> When it becomes a functional issue replace said part.
>
> It's not currently a functional issue, but if left alone it may become
> one, and I'm not about to replace the hack if all I need to do is
> prevent further corrosion.
>
> And yeah, you're artisitic.
One of my grandsons is artistic. Either that or he has Hamburger Syndrome.
One of them.
--
Spunky Hussein Tuna
radical ChristoIslamic fundamentalist Pescasupremacist...
but not at all bitter
Tud wrote:
> Bep wrote...
>> On May 8, 8:42 am, JMark <w...@noaddy.rom> wrote:
>>> Tud wrote:
>>> > Old Crow wrote...
>>> >> Spunky Hussein Tuna wrote:
>>> >>> Rick Begeman wrote:
>>>
>>> > On the topic of Conehead's rusty frame:
>>>
>>> >>>> My cousin uses some stuff he calls "POR" "paint over rust" might
>>> be >>>> the
>>> >>>> ticket for you.
>>>
>>> >>> Phosphoric acid is supposed to do a good job on rust, too. Brush
>>> it >>> on,
>>> >>> let it work, scrub it off with steel wool, prime, paint.
>>>
>>> >> We've tried that at work, but the results left a lot to be desired.
>>> >> If we've got to paint somewhere rusty that we can't sandblast first,
>>> >> we use the POR-15 and then prime and paint over the top of it.
>>>
>>> > So if you've got a rusty spot, which we'll assume water has gotten
>>> > into,
>>> > how does POR-15 prevent further rusting below the coating?
>>>
>>> <snip>
>>>
>>> http :// www .npl.co.uk/upload/pdf/beginners guide to corrosion.pdf
>>>
>>> --
>>> JMark
>>
>> I found that quite informative, but I can assure you that Tud's eyes
>> glossed over and he started thinking about big breasted women by the
>> second paragraph.
>>
>> Personally, where not a functional problem, I like the look of rust -
>> but perhaps I'm just more artistic than Tud :)
>>
>> http :// craftmonkeys.typepad,com /photos/e t c /rusty bike sm.html
>
> A fine example of "uniform corrosion", but uniform corrosion is not what
> I'm concerned with, my concern is more with concentration cell
> corrosion. Had there not been a seam and the joint were welded, as a
> suggestion as a method of prevention, then all would be good. My
> question deals not with what type of corrosion I'm suffering, but more
> with point 3 in section 3.7, the use of sealants and which application
> might be preferable.
>
>> When it becomes a functional issue replace said part.
>
> It's not currently a functional issue, but if left alone it may become
> one, and I'm not about to replace the hack if all I need to do is
> prevent further corrosion.
>
> And yeah, you're artisitic.
One of my grandsons is artistic. Either that or he has Hamburger Syndrome.
One of them.
--
Spunky Hussein Tuna
radical ChristoIslamic fundamentalist Pescasupremacist...
but not at all bitter
Re: Muwahahahahahaha!
On Thu, 8 May 2008 09:06:40 -0300, "Tud" <tud333@hotmail,com > wrote:
>Old Crow wrote...
>> Spunky Hussein Tuna wrote:
>>>Rick Begeman wrote:
>
>On the topic of Conehead's rusty frame:
>
>>>> My cousin uses some stuff he calls "POR" "paint over rust" might be the
>>>> ticket for you.
>
>>>Phosphoric acid is supposed to do a good job on rust, too. Brush it on,
>>>let it work, scrub it off with steel wool, prime, paint.
>>
>> We've tried that at work, but the results left a lot to be desired.
>> If we've got to paint somewhere rusty that we can't sandblast first,
>> we use the POR-15 and then prime and paint over the top of it.
>
>So if you've got a rusty spot, which we'll assume water has gotten into, how
>does POR-15 prevent further rusting below the coating?
>
>Let's say for example you have a seem, for example like the one on this rear
>fender:
>
> http :// tinyurl,com /2c9odj
>
>As you can see there is some rusty discoloration along the seam. Now assume
>there is some moisture trapped in there, will POR-15 still prevent further
>rusting? The fender isn't a big concern, but there's a bigger seam all
>along the hack that is much worse than the fender. My plan is to have the
>inside of the hack and trunk completely coated (lot's a water pools up here
>in the winter) and also do the bottom of the hack and keep going about an
>inch higher than the seam. My first thought was truck bed liner, like Rhino
>Liner, but my concern is that this may just trap water between it and the
>metal, plus it may fill in some holes that may need drilling out, exposing
>the metal again and giving the water a place to take hold and then spread.
>On the other hand, truck bed liner would also serve as a good protector
>against flying rocks and such on the underside of the hack. I'm a lazy,
>lazy guy, so the thought of sanding things down first does not appeal to me,
>but that may be necessary. The floor of the trunk and hack have a good
>layer of rust in spots that should likely be removed before applying
>anything.
>
>I've lost my train of thought. Time for a drink.
This might help
http :// www .por15,com /faq.asp
--
Old Crow
'82 FLTC(P)
'95 Wrangler YJ
BS#132, TOMKAT, SENS, SLOB#13
** Posted from http :// www .teranews,com **
On Thu, 8 May 2008 09:06:40 -0300, "Tud" <tud333@hotmail,com > wrote:
>Old Crow wrote...
>> Spunky Hussein Tuna wrote:
>>>Rick Begeman wrote:
>
>On the topic of Conehead's rusty frame:
>
>>>> My cousin uses some stuff he calls "POR" "paint over rust" might be the
>>>> ticket for you.
>
>>>Phosphoric acid is supposed to do a good job on rust, too. Brush it on,
>>>let it work, scrub it off with steel wool, prime, paint.
>>
>> We've tried that at work, but the results left a lot to be desired.
>> If we've got to paint somewhere rusty that we can't sandblast first,
>> we use the POR-15 and then prime and paint over the top of it.
>
>So if you've got a rusty spot, which we'll assume water has gotten into, how
>does POR-15 prevent further rusting below the coating?
>
>Let's say for example you have a seem, for example like the one on this rear
>fender:
>
> http :// tinyurl,com /2c9odj
>
>As you can see there is some rusty discoloration along the seam. Now assume
>there is some moisture trapped in there, will POR-15 still prevent further
>rusting? The fender isn't a big concern, but there's a bigger seam all
>along the hack that is much worse than the fender. My plan is to have the
>inside of the hack and trunk completely coated (lot's a water pools up here
>in the winter) and also do the bottom of the hack and keep going about an
>inch higher than the seam. My first thought was truck bed liner, like Rhino
>Liner, but my concern is that this may just trap water between it and the
>metal, plus it may fill in some holes that may need drilling out, exposing
>the metal again and giving the water a place to take hold and then spread.
>On the other hand, truck bed liner would also serve as a good protector
>against flying rocks and such on the underside of the hack. I'm a lazy,
>lazy guy, so the thought of sanding things down first does not appeal to me,
>but that may be necessary. The floor of the trunk and hack have a good
>layer of rust in spots that should likely be removed before applying
>anything.
>
>I've lost my train of thought. Time for a drink.
This might help
http :// www .por15,com /faq.asp
--
Old Crow
'82 FLTC(P)
'95 Wrangler YJ
BS#132, TOMKAT, SENS, SLOB#13
** Posted from http :// www .teranews,com **
