Washing a filthy dirrrty bike

Re: Washing a filthy dirrrty bike

Jinks wrote:

(snip some)

>
> I'm old & lazy so I like a chemical that will remove the grime, but not
> the paint. I'm also not going to go over a paint job 6 or 8 times to make it
> shine. If it takes that much there probably isn't much shine left anyway. If
> mine gets that dirty I grab a bottle of S-100, soak the bike down, & hose it
> off. If I want more clean I'll wash it with dish soap

I'm not obsessive/compulsive about methods for washing a bike, but I've
heard that dish soap can be hard on automotive finishes. It takes all
the oils out of the clear coat/paint, making it more susceptible to
Nature's wrath. Automotive soaps don't do that. Ya don't wash your
clothes with car wash soap, do ya? So go buy some car wash soap from
Autozone or NAPA.

> & water, dry, & maybe a coat of Turtle Wax.

Definitely wax it. After about half a dozen washes there isn't any wax
left anyway. But I'm not obsessive/compulsive about it.

Also, waxes like Turtle wax are one-step products. They have cleaners
and swirl removers in it as well. If your finish is in good shape you
don't need all that stuff. Get some pure carnuba wax. If ya wanna get
kinda obsessive/compulsive with it all, don't use anything but cotton on
your finish. Chamois and towels and car wash mitts will put hairline
scratches on the surface. Cotton minimizes that. I bought a shit load
(pun intended) of cotton diapers and use them to wash, dry, and wax
with. If ya do get those tiny scratches and swirls, Meguiars swirl
remover takes 'em right out. And no...I'm not obsessive/compulsive.

Link to a website that is all about caring for automotive finishes.
These guys are frickin' obsessive/compulsive, but they know what the
heck they're talking about. (No financial interest...standard
disclaimer, etc.)

http :// www .autopia.org/

Check out the forums, but *do not* mention Dawn dish soap. That would be
the same as an oil thread in here.

Andy aka Big "OK...I'm a *little* obsessive/compulsive about washing my
bike" Stinkie BS#252 SLOB#3

Re: Washing a filthy dirrrty bike


"Donna A." <flhtcui1995@SPAM.hotmail,com > wrote in message
news:482976e8@127.0.0.1...

> Waddya say? What's a good cleaner or two? Also, what do you all use for
> cruddy chrome maybe with a bit of rust here and there?
>
> TIA!
>
> --
> Donna A.
> Wench #17/Bitch #17/BS #26/AH#107/SLOB #9
> '95 FLHTCUI Fuel Injected 30th Anniversary Electraglide "Fueley"
> '66 H-D Bobcat "Baby Blue"--Harley Hummer Club Member #1066
> http :// spoiled-brat,com

For years I have used a product called Wash Wax All ... on cars, bikes and
airplanes.
They have a regular .. and a heavy duty for grease and grime. Spray it on ..
wipe it off. Easy to carry with you for spot cleaning. The regular works on
the windshield
too.

http :// www .washwax,com

No I don't have any connection with them. Just have a history of using
their product.

t

Re: Washing a filthy dirrrty bike

tater wrote:
> "Donna A." <flhtcui1995@SPAM.hotmail,com > wrote in message
> news:482976e8@127.0.0.1...
>
>> Waddya say? What's a good cleaner or two? Also, what do you all use for
>> cruddy chrome maybe with a bit of rust here and there?
>>
>> TIA!
>>
>> --
>> Donna A.
>> Wench #17/Bitch #17/BS #26/AH#107/SLOB #9
>> '95 FLHTCUI Fuel Injected 30th Anniversary Electraglide "Fueley"
>> '66 H-D Bobcat "Baby Blue"--Harley Hummer Club Member #1066
>> http :// spoiled-brat,com
>
> For years I have used a product called Wash Wax All ... on cars, bikes and
> airplanes.
> They have a regular .. and a heavy duty for grease and grime. Spray it on ..
> wipe it off. Easy to carry with you for spot cleaning. The regular works on
> the windshield
> too.
>
> http :// www .washwax,com
>
> No I don't have any connection with them. Just have a history of using
> their product.

Hmmm. That's similar to some stuff I've got. First I need to get all the
crud off to get to the point where I can use the easy stuff. 8-)

--
Donna A.
Wench #17/Bitch #17/BS #26/AH#107/SLOB #9
'95 FLHTCUI Fuel Injected 30th Anniversary Electraglide "Fueley"
'66 H-D Bobcat "Baby Blue"--Harley Hummer Club Member #1066
http :// spoiled-brat,com

Re: Washing a filthy dirrrty bike

>
> Hmmm. That's similar to some stuff I've got. First I need to get all the
> crud off to get to the point where I can use the easy stuff. 8-)
>
> --
> Donna A.
> Wench #17/Bitch #17/BS #26/AH#107/SLOB #9
> '95 FLHTCUI Fuel Injected 30th Anniversary Electraglide "Fueley"
> '66 H-D Bobcat "Baby Blue"--Harley Hummer Club Member #1066
> http :// spoiled-brat,com

Another little trick I've had good luck with .. especially on airplane
bottoms
that collect lots of grease, oil, exhaust crud is to use GoJo hand cleaner
on it.

t

Re: Washing a filthy dirrrty bike

"tater" <taternwanda@hotmail,com > wrote in message
> >
>> Hmmm. That's similar to some stuff I've got. First I need to get all the
>> crud off to get to the point where I can use the easy stuff. 8-)

> Another little trick I've had good luck with .. especially on airplane
> bottoms
> that collect lots of grease, oil, exhaust crud is to use GoJo hand cleaner
> on it.

IIRC, that stuff's pretty gritty, not good for an airframe or a bike. Great
for hands though.

Re: Washing a filthy dirrrty bike

"Schmoe" <s@s,net > wrote in message news:4829e8cb$0$15187$607ed4bc@cv,net ...
> "tater" <taternwanda@hotmail,com > wrote in message
>> >
>>> Hmmm. That's similar to some stuff I've got. First I need to get all the
>>> crud off to get to the point where I can use the easy stuff. 8-)
>
>> Another little trick I've had good luck with .. especially on airplane
>> bottoms
>> that collect lots of grease, oil, exhaust crud is to use GoJo hand
>> cleaner
>> on it.
>
> IIRC, that stuff's pretty gritty, not good for an airframe or a bike.
> Great for hands though.

Nope. You don't use a gritty one. The regular one is silk smooth. Nothing
abrasive in it at all.

t

Re: Washing a filthy dirrrty bike

"Donna A." <flhtcui1995@SPAM.hotmail,com > wrote in message
news:482976e8@127.0.0.1...
> Okay, all this talk about washing bikes--well, *some* talk about washing
> bikes--has got me thinking I should really take a coat or three of grime
> off mine. Especially since she looks like a real pig sitting next to the
> new Ultra CrowDog got on Saturday...

Oh, geez, now everybody's gonna know..... I'm a bonafide anal-retentive when
it comes to spiffing the ride, any ride. My first job at age 14 was at a car
wash & detail shop where I learned the handy tips n tricks and where
anything other than optimum was unacceptable. It stuck. I'm not satisfied
until whatever I'm cleaning rivals something you see at car shows. First
rule to making your ride look spiffy is to not *let* it get totally cruddy
in the first place. Too late for that, I s'pose.

> I need suggestions for HEAVY DUTY cleaners that will take off YEARS of
> dirt, bugs, oil, and whatever else has come up off the highways and byways
> of this great land and onto my bike. Wow, that was kind of poetic, wasn't
> it? Lemme buy a round whilst I wipe a tear from my eye.

Regardless of what you use, first thing is to totally wet things down before
spritzing any products on it or lathering it up. Dry dust and gunk is
incredibly abrasive. Kinda like those NJ-types <sfsf>

Ya want easy or you want good and thorough... you can't have both. Spray-on,
hose-off solutions are for those satisfied with getting a layer or two of
crud off when things get unbearably disgusting. If you're more
discriminating than that yer gonna need a tin of elbow-grease. As others
suggest, Simple Green is a good multi-use product for gunk n crud. I use it
on grease on the garage floor but I don't use it on a finish I kinda like.
If needed on greasy bike bits I use it diluted and let it sit for a while.
More often than not I use an engine degreaser like Gunk that's made
specifically for the task. I'll never use S-100 again as long as I live. It
leaves a caustic residue in nooks and crannies that's impossible to get off
and stains aluminum if ya miss a spot on the rinse.

For most purposes you use the same products you'd use to wash a car... any
concentrated car wash, although I prefer Meguires. NEVER dish washing
detergent. It's harsh and strips wax or any other protective products you've
used and leaves the finish dull and lifeless. H-D actually has some good
products..... their Bug Spray takes long-dead critters off well. Their
SunWash isn't a bad product either. They've got a sample pack that includes
these as well as a Tire & Wheel cleaner that works real well for around 9 or
10 bucks.

Kerosene is the ticket for tar, grease and road gunk low on the frame and
engine. Let it sit a while and it almost wipes right off. Use before wetting
down the bike. Let it sit.

Wet, spray on the bug spray if yer gonna use it, let it sit. Simple Green or
Gunk on the engine, frame and underside of the bike. Let it sit. Spray the
wheels with wheel cleaner. Let it sit.

Warm soapy water some soft brushes and a wash mitt or rag on the painted
finishes, windshield and anywhere you can reach that doesn't have stuff
already sprayed on and sittin'. A soft bug sponge lathered with soap on the
windshield and front fairings and forks after the bug stuff has had a chance
to work and it comes right off. Soft brushes on the engine nooks n crannies
and the wheels and most of the crud comes right off. Rinse thoroughly and
repeat on anything stubborn. Avoid high pressure near the wheel bearings,
near the side covers and the seat where the electronic stuff lives.

I use a leaf blower to get most of the water off and then a combination of
chamois and soft rags to dry... diapers work best. Once everything's clean
the real work begins.... if yer interested in the thorough version.

> Waddya say? What's a good cleaner or two? Also, what do you all use for
> cruddy chrome maybe with a bit of rust here and there?

Best thing I've ever used on cruddy chrome is simple.... Brillo or SOS. 0000
steel wool with soap that both cleans and lubricates to prevent scratching.
It leaves a film that doesn't wash off easy so a wash with a soapy mitt
after produces best results. Nevr Dull cotton wadding is one of the better
and most versatile chrome and aluminum cleaner and polish I've found. Really
dulled aluminum takes more work... although I've got a ton of metal polishes
and cleaners in the cabinet Meguire's Aluminum & Mag polish is about the
best I've used. If yer inclined you can make those 13 year old wheels look
like new. *That* is probably more work than you're interested in.... you've
gotta border on obsessive to get that anal... umm, like me ;-) It's kinda
fun parking next to a new bike with wheels that shine better n new though
<g>

If the barge still looks drab parked next to the CrowBarge some polish and
wax is in order. Yeah, you can get a temporary shine using Pledge or any
number of things. But to do it right... especially on black, you've gotta
use a slight abrasive to remove the layer of oxidation and dead paint.
Meguires Scratch-X is a primo cleaner and polish and safe for clear coats..
A coupla applications and those little spider-web marks that are tough to
get out of black disappear. Works on all the painted surfaces and is mild
enough for polishing the windshield provided you use a *soft* cloth. I
prefer flannel on plexi. A coat of Plexus will shine the windshield and keep
stuff from sticking on it in the first place. Water rolls right off in the
rain as well. Lemon Pledge works well on a clean windshield as well. Doesn't
last as long and tends to smear.

Any decent wax will do after cleaning and polishing the painted parts. I
prefer Collinite's Insulator Wax or Meguires Yellow wax. A one-step cleaner
wax willproduce inferior results.. especially on black. Wax the chrome too
while yer at it :-)

Ya want that black engine to look like new? S100 engine cleaner or a can of
Pig Snot..... spray it on clean parts and forget about it. Returns
everything to dark black..... engine, inner primary, tranny case.

Most of the cleaning stuff is gonna be available at any Auto Parts store,
maybe even Wally World. Pig Snot and S100 Engine Cleaner can be found in
metric shops a LOT cheaper than any H-D shop. The H-D products are really
pretty good though..... the sample pack for 10 bucks is a good deal to find
out what you like and might use again.

A coupla scum have capitalized on my obsession by showing up at the Lair
with disgustingly cruddy bikes. They left with clean, shiny barges just cuz
I like a challenge. Before the line starts to form, I don't do that any
more. <g>

112 <----- heading out to buff the lawn mower

Re: Washing a filthy dirrrty bike


"TL Mitchell" <tlmitchell99(nospam)@earthlink,net > wrote in message
news:ku6dnUfUur8AXrTVnZ2dnUVZ_vzinZ2d@earthlink,com ...
>
> A coupla scum have capitalized on my obsession by showing up at the Lair
> with disgustingly cruddy bikes. They left with clean, shiny barges just
> cuz I like a challenge. Before the line starts to form, I don't do that
> any more. <g>
>
> 112 <----- heading out to buff the lawn mower


I guess my bike was more of a challenge than you wanted to take on.<sfsf>
When the bug guts get so embedded in the paint that washing still doesn't
remove them, I use painters correction clay. Cleans the paint like new,
then any favorite brand of wax will work.
--
Larry
and if you believe I ever wash my bike........

Re: Washing a filthy dirrrty bike

TL Mitchell wrote:
>
> A coupla scum have capitalized on my obsession by showing up at the Lair
> with disgustingly cruddy bikes. They left with clean, shiny barges just cuz
> I like a challenge. Before the line starts to form, I don't do that any
> more. <g>
>
Well, at least not the whole bike. You trying to wean yourself by just
doing the windshields?

Fins BS#221
The "I had forgotten it was clear" slug

Re: Washing a filthy dirrrty bike


"DM" <fins@nospam.bs221,com > wrote in message
news:NrGdnZf7wOrRgbfVnZ2dnUVZ_judnZ2d@giganews,com ...
> TL Mitchell wrote:
>>
>> A coupla scum have capitalized on my obsession by showing up at the Lair
>> with disgustingly cruddy bikes. They left with clean, shiny barges just
>> cuz I like a challenge. Before the line starts to form, I don't do that
>> any more. <g>
>>
> Well, at least not the whole bike. You trying to wean yourself by just
> doing the windshields?

How rude of me... I coulda at least Armor-All'd the seat and tire treads for
ya......

112

Re: Washing a filthy dirrrty bike

TL Mitchell wrote:
> "DM" <fins@nospam.bs221,com > wrote in message
> news:NrGdnZf7wOrRgbfVnZ2dnUVZ judnZ2d@giganews,com ...
>> TL Mitchell wrote:
>>> A coupla scum have capitalized on my obsession by showing up at the Lair
>>> with disgustingly cruddy bikes. They left with clean, shiny barges just
>>> cuz I like a challenge. Before the line starts to form, I don't do that
>>> any more. <g>
>>>
>> Well, at least not the whole bike. You trying to wean yourself by just
>> doing the windshields?
>
> How rude of me... I coulda at least Armor-All'd the seat and tire treads for
> ya......

LOL My dad once Armor-All'd his leather seats in his Caddy. They were so
slick that if you didn't wear a seat belt and went around a corner,
you'd end up on the other side of the car!

--
Donna A.
Wench #17/Bitch #17/BS #26/AH#107/SLOB #9
'95 FLHTCUI Fuel Injected 30th Anniversary Electraglide "Fueley"
'66 H-D Bobcat "Baby Blue"--Harley Hummer Club Member #1066
http :// spoiled-brat,com

Re: Washing a filthy dirrrty bike

TL Mitchell wrote:
A LOT of good stuff !
>
> 112 <----- heading out to buff the lawn mower

The one cleaning/polishing product that I buy at the dealer is Harley
Glaze . Two coats of Meguire's yellow (it's carnauba ...) two coats of
Turtle wax , and two coats of the Glaze can make your paint look like it's
still liquid . I do this to new paint after it's fully cured , about six
weeks .
No reason it won't work on clean old paint though . Harley's finishes are
among the best in the industry , it might surprise you how good it could
look with a bit of work .
--
Snag
'90 Ultra "Strider"
'39 WLDD "Popcycle"
Buncha cars and a truck

Re: Washing a filthy dirrrty bike

Terry Coombs wrote:
> TL Mitchell wrote:
> A LOT of good stuff !
>> 112 <----- heading out to buff the lawn mower
>
> The one cleaning/polishing product that I buy at the dealer is Harley
> Glaze . Two coats of Meguire's yellow (it's carnauba ...) two coats of
> Turtle wax , and two coats of the Glaze can make your paint look like it's
> still liquid . I do this to new paint after it's fully cured , about six
> weeks .
> No reason it won't work on clean old paint though . Harley's finishes are
> among the best in the industry , it might surprise you how good it could
> look with a bit of work .

I know that in the past when I've given it a good cleaning and then
waxed it, it just glowed. All I need is a truck load of elbow grease.
And a Saturday or Sunday where it isn't raining!

--
Donna A.
Wench #17/Bitch #17/BS #26/AH#107/SLOB #9
'95 FLHTCUI Fuel Injected 30th Anniversary Electraglide "Fueley"
'66 H-D Bobcat "Baby Blue"--Harley Hummer Club Member #1066
http :// spoiled-brat,com

Re: Washing a filthy dirrrty bike

TL Mitchell wrote:
> "Donna A." <flhtcui1995@SPAM.hotmail,com > wrote in message
> news:482976e8@127.0.0.1...
>> Okay, all this talk about washing bikes--well, *some* talk about washing
>> bikes--has got me thinking I should really take a coat or three of grime
>> off mine. Especially since she looks like a real pig sitting next to the
>> new Ultra CrowDog got on Saturday...
>
> Oh, geez, now everybody's gonna know..... I'm a bonafide anal-retentive when
> it comes to spiffing the ride, any ride. My first job at age 14 was at a car
> wash & detail shop where I learned the handy tips n tricks and where
> anything other than optimum was unacceptable. It stuck. I'm not satisfied
> until whatever I'm cleaning rivals something you see at car shows. First
> rule to making your ride look spiffy is to not *let* it get totally cruddy
> in the first place. Too late for that, I s'pose.

Yep, too late. Hey, are you up for a challenge? Wanna take a crack at
cleaning my bike? ;-)

>> I need suggestions for HEAVY DUTY cleaners that will take off YEARS of
>> dirt, bugs, oil, and whatever else has come up off the highways and byways
>> of this great land and onto my bike. Wow, that was kind of poetic, wasn't
>> it? Lemme buy a round whilst I wipe a tear from my eye.
>
> Regardless of what you use, first thing is to totally wet things down before
> spritzing any products on it or lathering it up. Dry dust and gunk is
> incredibly abrasive. Kinda like those NJ-types <sfsf>

I figured I'd start with the hose to get some stuff off, like mud.

> Ya want easy or you want good and thorough... you can't have both. Spray-on,

I want good and thorough. Then once it's clean, I could take the easier
route.

> hose-off solutions are for those satisfied with getting a layer or two of
> crud off when things get unbearably disgusting. If you're more
> discriminating than that yer gonna need a tin of elbow-grease. As others
> suggest, Simple Green is a good multi-use product for gunk n crud. I use it
> on grease on the garage floor but I don't use it on a finish I kinda like.
> If needed on greasy bike bits I use it diluted and let it sit for a while.
> More often than not I use an engine degreaser like Gunk that's made
> specifically for the task. I'll never use S-100 again as long as I live. It
> leaves a caustic residue in nooks and crannies that's impossible to get off
> and stains aluminum if ya miss a spot on the rinse.

How much would you dilute the Simple Green? I think I'd use that for the
crud along the bottom, like under the floor boards and around the
voltage regulator.

> For most purposes you use the same products you'd use to wash a car... any
> concentrated car wash, although I prefer Meguires. NEVER dish washing
> detergent. It's harsh and strips wax or any other protective products you've
> used and leaves the finish dull and lifeless. H-D actually has some good
> products..... their Bug Spray takes long-dead critters off well. Their
> SunWash isn't a bad product either. They've got a sample pack that includes
> these as well as a Tire & Wheel cleaner that works real well for around 9 or
> 10 bucks.

I didn't know about the sample pack--I'll check into that. I've used the
bug stuff before and it worked great on my fairing.

> Kerosene is the ticket for tar, grease and road gunk low on the frame and
> engine. Let it sit a while and it almost wipes right off. Use before wetting
> down the bike. Let it sit.

I'm a little scared to use that.

> Wet, spray on the bug spray if yer gonna use it, let it sit. Simple Green or
> Gunk on the engine, frame and underside of the bike. Let it sit. Spray the
> wheels with wheel cleaner. Let it sit.

Sounds good.

> Warm soapy water some soft brushes and a wash mitt or rag on the painted

Okay, soapy. What kind of soap? Some car cleaner type soap?

> finishes, windshield and anywhere you can reach that doesn't have stuff
> already sprayed on and sittin'. A soft bug sponge lathered with soap on the
> windshield and front fairings and forks after the bug stuff has had a chance
> to work and it comes right off. Soft brushes on the engine nooks n crannies
> and the wheels and most of the crud comes right off. Rinse thoroughly and
> repeat on anything stubborn. Avoid high pressure near the wheel bearings,
> near the side covers and the seat where the electronic stuff lives.

I just have a garden hose and our water pressure isn't all that high, so
I should be safe. I like the idea of brushes to get into some of those
nooks and crannies I can't reach. I suspect they'd have those at Walmart?

> I use a leaf blower to get most of the water off and then a combination of
> chamois and soft rags to dry... diapers work best. Once everything's clean
> the real work begins.... if yer interested in the thorough version.

Once I get it clean, then I want to get a good coat of wax on it.

>> Waddya say? What's a good cleaner or two? Also, what do you all use for
>> cruddy chrome maybe with a bit of rust here and there?
>
> Best thing I've ever used on cruddy chrome is simple.... Brillo or SOS. 0000
> steel wool with soap that both cleans and lubricates to prevent scratching.

I *never* would have thought of that! Thanks!

> It leaves a film that doesn't wash off easy so a wash with a soapy mitt
> after produces best results. Nevr Dull cotton wadding is one of the better
> and most versatile chrome and aluminum cleaner and polish I've found. Really
> dulled aluminum takes more work... although I've got a ton of metal polishes
> and cleaners in the cabinet Meguire's Aluminum & Mag polish is about the
> best I've used. If yer inclined you can make those 13 year old wheels look
> like new. *That* is probably more work than you're interested in.... you've
> gotta border on obsessive to get that anal... umm, like me ;-) It's kinda
> fun parking next to a new bike with wheels that shine better n new though
> <g>

LOL I think the wheels are a lost cause. They were originally gold color
but most of that is gone. I think if I just get them fairly clean,
that'll be enough.

> If the barge still looks drab parked next to the CrowBarge some polish and

LOL I love it--CrowBarge. I gotta tell him that.

> wax is in order. Yeah, you can get a temporary shine using Pledge or any
> number of things. But to do it right... especially on black, you've gotta
> use a slight abrasive to remove the layer of oxidation and dead paint.
> Meguires Scratch-X is a primo cleaner and polish and safe for clear coats..
> A coupla applications and those little spider-web marks that are tough to
> get out of black disappear. Works on all the painted surfaces and is mild

Perfect. Just the info I'm looking for.

> enough for polishing the windshield provided you use a *soft* cloth. I
> prefer flannel on plexi. A coat of Plexus will shine the windshield and keep
> stuff from sticking on it in the first place. Water rolls right off in the
> rain as well. Lemon Pledge works well on a clean windshield as well. Doesn't
> last as long and tends to smear.

I need to buy a new windshield anyway since mine has a crack in the
middle coming up from the bottom. It's slowly getting bigger, so instead
of washing it, I'll just buy a new one. Same for the fairing wind
deflectors. I'll check into the Plexus--it'd be nice to have the water
roll off instead of just collect like it did on the way to work this
morning when a semi was kicking up enough water to drown me.

>
> Any decent wax will do after cleaning and polishing the painted parts. I
> prefer Collinite's Insulator Wax or Meguires Yellow wax. A one-step cleaner
> wax willproduce inferior results.. especially on black. Wax the chrome too
> while yer at it :-)

Will do.

> Ya want that black engine to look like new? S100 engine cleaner or a can of
> Pig Snot..... spray it on clean parts and forget about it. Returns
> everything to dark black..... engine, inner primary, tranny case.

I actually have some HD stuff that does that--but I don't know if they
even sell it any more.

> Most of the cleaning stuff is gonna be available at any Auto Parts store,
> maybe even Wally World. Pig Snot and S100 Engine Cleaner can be found in
> metric shops a LOT cheaper than any H-D shop. The H-D products are really
> pretty good though..... the sample pack for 10 bucks is a good deal to find
> out what you like and might use again.

I know that there are definitely some products you listed that I'm going
to look for--especially the Meguires Scratch-X.

> A coupla scum have capitalized on my obsession by showing up at the Lair
> with disgustingly cruddy bikes. They left with clean, shiny barges just cuz
> I like a challenge. Before the line starts to form, I don't do that any
> more. <g>

Story of my life--I'm always too late. ;-)

> 112 <----- heading out to buff the lawn mower

Thank you SO much for all this info, TL. I know it's gonna take hours to
clean the pig but it'll look so much better sitting next to the
CrowBarge. She won't feel like a tired old lady anymore. But I will
after cleaning her. 8-)

--
Donna A.
Wench #17/Bitch #17/BS #26/AH#107/SLOB #9
'95 FLHTCUI Fuel Injected 30th Anniversary Electraglide "Fueley"
'66 H-D Bobcat "Baby Blue"--Harley Hummer Club Member #1066
http :// spoiled-brat,com

Re: Washing a filthy dirrrty bike

"Donna A." <flhtcui1995@SPAM.hotmail,com > wrote

> Yep, too late. Hey, are you up for a challenge? Wanna take a crack at
> cleaning my bike? ;-)

I'm glad yer not just around the corner..... the challenge would be hard to
resist ;-) Kinda like dramatic before n afters.

> How much would you dilute the Simple Green? I think I'd use that for the
> crud along the bottom, like under the floor boards and around the voltage
> regulator.

I usually go half n half.

>> Kerosene is the ticket for tar, grease and road gunk low on the frame and
>> engine. Let it sit a while and it almost wipes right off. Use before
>> wetting down the bike. Let it sit.
>
> I'm a little scared to use that.

Not to worry, doesn't hurt a thing and can be beneficial. The old-timers
used to give their cars a kerosene bath before the pre-winter wax job. The
petroleum stuff that makes it feel greasy seeps into the nooks and crannies
and kept 'em from rusting. Back in the car-wash days folks that'd gotten
their cars laquered with tar and creosote would bring 'em in for us to do
the dirtywork. Used to give 'em a total bath with dry cleaning fluid and let
it sit... the crap would drip off. When dry cleaning fluid became an EPA
nasty they switched to kerosene. I usually give the bottom panels of the
truck a kersene wipe to remove the tar and crud, doesn't hurt a thing. Sure
does kill soap suds though!

> Okay, soapy. What kind of soap? Some car cleaner type soap?

Any jug of car wash will do.... run by Wally World and pick up a purple jug
of Meguire's Car Wash.... a little bit makes lots of suds. Dirtier the
subject, the more your use.

>I like the idea of brushes to get into some of those nooks and crannies I
>can't reach. I suspect they'd have those at Walmart?

Yep. There's specialized toothbrush-sized stuff the pros use... not
necessary. Just make sure they're soft. There's large wheel brushes that're
great for sidewalls and the parts of the wheel you can reach. Good if you
use Westley's Bleche Wite on whitewalls. That stuff is stout used full
strength and stains aluminum... the sudes won't hurt, just want to avoid
direct spray on the wheels. SOS or Brillo also works well on whitewalls,
albeit with more direct rubbing and work.

> Once I get it clean, then I want to get a good coat of wax on it.

Gotta polish, then wax. Lots of one-step products with light abrasives that
polish and wax... and do neither as well as dedicated products. Scratch-X
has been showing up at Wally World lately and is a great polish and cleaner.
The more applications, the better the results. Secret to polishing is to NOT
apply and rub in circles..... polish back n forth in the direction of the
air flow. I rub the stuff until it appears to almost disappear. Then there's
very little haze to buff off.

Wally World also has micro-fiber towels and round, soft applicator pads.
*Soft* and no-nap is the secret to polishing towels. Terry towels put those
little scratches right back. Use different applicators and towels for
different products, turn 'em over when they show dirt, if you drop it on the
floor get a clean one. At clean up time throw 'em all in the washer in hot
water with plenty of soap and bleach. NO softeners or drying sheets with
drying towels... it robs them of absorbancy.

A pure carnauba wax like Meguire's yellow or Insulator Wax can be applied in
multiple coats with a deeper and more vivid shine with each coat. I saw some
dunce using a one-step cleaner wax over and over and over thinking he was
putting on multiple coats..... the cleaning agents were stripping the
previous coat with each application. Anything with the word "Turtle" in it
is anathema to the pros and concours folks.. I figure they must know
something..... although Turtle Wax bought out a little known outfit called
The Wax Shop that had some incedible but hard to find products.

> LOL I think the wheels are a lost cause. They were originally gold color
> but most of that is gone. I think if I just get them fairly clean, that'll
> be enough.

The gold wore away? It's amazing how caustic brake dust is.... it just eats
at stuff. Regardless, the aluminum will come back with enough effort. The
pre-'00 wheels are a particular PITA due to the ribs running towards the
hubs.... they wear off your fingertips. Great prep for a second career as a
safe cracker though.

The front wheel isn't so bad, you can do it on the bike and just turn it to
reach difficult spots. The rear wheel is a project best saved for when it's
off the bike.. a good rainy day project. Meguire's Aluminum and Mag Polish
or red Wenol are great for cleaning and shining.... the stuff turns black
while you rub, that's the crud coming off. Work in one spot with repeated
applications until you achieve the desired result and move on. A product
called Back to Black works well on pulleys or other matt black parts that
*used* to be black.

> LOL I love it--CrowBarge. I gotta tell him that.

Hey, it needed a name <g> There ya go, no extra charge.

> I need to buy a new windshield anyway since mine has a crack in the middle
> coming up from the bottom. It's slowly getting bigger, so instead of
> washing it, I'll just buy a new one.

H-D windshields have the best hard-coat you'll find but they're pricey. They
show up on eBay occasionally but go for too much. *Somebody* on here
probably has a take-off laying around... I wouldn't be surprised if
Kickstand has a whole closet full. A lotta folks buy replacement or shorter
shields from an outfit called Fastaire either on eBay or their Web site.
http :// www .fastaire,com / Any height you want in clear, smoked or dark. Good
workmanship and quality and moderately priced. The hard coat isn't what
H-D's is so keeping 'em clean and using the right product is kinda
important. But you can replace a lot of 'em for what H-D wants for one. I
prefer to look just over the shield so I've got a 9 inch smoked for road
trips and an 8-inch dark one for posing and waving.

I'll check into the Plexus--it'd be nice to have the water
> roll off instead of just collect like it did on the way to work this
> morning when a semi was kicking up enough water to drown me.

If you don't see it at an H-D dealer the metric shops always have it.

>> Ya want that black engine to look like new? S100 engine cleaner or a can
>> of Pig Snot..... spray it on clean parts and forget about it. Returns
>> everything to dark black..... engine, inner primary, tranny case.
>
> I actually have some HD stuff that does that--but I don't know if they
> even sell it any more.

After wiping off the glare the residue on the rag is good for wiping down
the inner fairing and other black stuff. I don't apply it directly though as
to much leaves a garish shine and it can be smeary. Lemon Pledge is good for
that.

> Thank you SO much for all this info, TL. I know it's gonna take hours to
> clean the pig but it'll look so much better sitting next to the CrowBarge.

Be carefuil... it can become contagious and turn into an obsession. Every
time you reapply Scratch-X to a spot you already did and it looks better and
better you end up redoing everything. Then you try another little spot just
to see how good you can get it... and then..... Black is different than any
other color. If it doesn't really gleam why even bother. And when it
*does*..... then you see dust from a mile away. And when you give it a quick
wipe there's those little scratches again.

Never wipe dry dust from black, always use a spritz of a touch-up product on
a lightly moisened micro-cloth. The H-D product in the sampler is suitable,
Meguire's and others have touch-up sprays as well. The goobers at the car
shows are always wiping their's down with the stuff and the literally gleam
and look like wet paint under the lights. Ya ain't gonna keep anything you
*ride* that way but it's kinda fun to know you can make it look like that.

>She won't feel like a tired old lady anymore. But I will after cleaning
>her. 8-)

Taint easy, especially once it's really crudded up. I kinda liked the way my
barges looked when they rolled out of the showroom. It's a lot easier to
keep 'em that way than it is to restore 'em.

Other thing many that aren't shine-obsessive don't consider, working inside
is best..... or at least out of direct sunlight. A little sun and leaving
products on too long and it almost becomes welded on and a real PITA.

112 <--- time to wax the gutters and downspouts and Rain-X the windows