Re: Washing a filthy dirrrty bike"Donna A." <flhtcui1995@SPAM.hotmail . com > wrote in message
news:482976e8@127.0.0.1...
> Okay, all this talk about washing bikes--well, *some* talk about washing
> bikes--has got me thinking I should really take a coat or three of grime
> off mine. Especially since she looks like a real pig sitting next to the
> new Ultra CrowDog got on Saturday...
>
> I need suggestions for HEAVY DUTY cleaners that will take off YEARS of
> dirt, bugs, oil, and whatever else has come up off the highways and
> byways of this great land and onto my bike. Wow, that was kind of
> poetic, wasn't it? Lemme buy a round whilst I wipe a tear from my eye.
>
> Waddya say? What's a good cleaner or two? Also, what do you all use for
> cruddy chrome maybe with a bit of rust here and there?
>
> TIA!
I tenth or eleventh the motion to begin with Simple Green concentrate (it's
cheaper to get the gallon jugs and refill a spritz bottle yourself as
needed). Let bike cool to touchability if hot from riding. If you have
leather on the bike, take it off if feasible to clean separately with saddle
soap according to directions on saddle soap container. (Simple Green says
it's not supposed to be used on leather. However if leather in otherwise
good condition, having been surface washed with Simple Green and rinsed and
dried, is then treated with a penetrating leather dressing such as Harness
Honey [Google it], it will probably be OK.)
Work outdoors in good light but not in direct sun. Have a water hose ready
with the softest water you have. Rinse the bike at all angles (including
under fenders) with the hose taking care to keep direct water pressure away
from bearings (wheel, steering) and any electronics having holes in it.
Then spritz bike generously all about with the Simple Green till the whole
bike is dripping with Simple Green. (Roll bike to help get at inaccessible
parts of wheels.) Wait a couple minutes but don't let Simple Green dry.
Use a water hose jet spray to blast dirt off bike, again taking care to keep
direct water pressure away from vulnerable areas mentioned.
After doing that once or twice, now you can begin to work on stubborn spots.
Simple Green, straight, on a washing rag, bristle brush, and toothbrush as
appropriate, followed up with water flush. Use Pine Sol or kerosene (NOT
gasoline) sparingly for particularly greasy problems like tar if Simple
Green is not enough. Take care to keep washing tools rinsed free from grit
and anything else that could scratch. If rust is coming from beneath paint
or plating then the rusty item will need replacement or refinishing and any
cleaning treatment will be superficial. But most surface rust including
rust that has dripped from something else can be removed with a paste of non
abrasive Super Rust Out powder (sold in hardware and home improvement stores
with the water softener supplies). Rinse well.
Wipe wet chrome, glass, vinyl, leather, plastic, and paint dry with a grit
free terry cloth towel before those surfaces can show water spots.
If you're dealing with bare aluminum and you can't stand it looking its
natural grey color, then get an aluminum polish from a hardware store and
apply according to directions (you'll probably need the toothbrush). This
removes surface oxides and makes the aluminum shine with a near mirror
finish. This can be a pain on bare aluminum cast wheels and I usually don't
bother once the wheels are clean.
Redneck