Re: Virago charging problemMungo "Two Sheds" Toadfoot wrote:
> Ken Abrams wrote:
>> "Mungo "Two Sheds" Toadfoot" <eastREMOVEkent@gmail,com > wrote
>>
>>> I was about to buy
>>> another battery as it is now losing its charge (charged with a
>>> battery charger indoors) within a day or two,
>> If this means: I charged it indoors and let it sit out of the bike
>> for 2 days and it was dead........then the battery IS bad and should
>> be replaced, regardless of what else is happening.
>>
>> If it means: I charged it and put it back in the bike and it was dead
>> after 2 days, the path is not quite so clear but still likely the
>> battery is toast. Because: "I noticed that the battery fluid level
>> was very low" and at one point, the charging system appeared to have
>> some output.
>>
>
> This one. I charged it indoors for ~6 hours and it started the bike fine for
> a couple of days but then died again. I tested the charging voltage today,
> when the battery was fully charged and starting the bike easily, and it's
> showing no charge at all - it doesn't vary at all from idle up to lots rpm
> so the meter appears to be showing only the battery's voltage, which is
> still a little low at ~11.8v.
>
>> I would install a new, fully charged battery and then test the
>> charging system again. A (very) bad battery might be skewing the
>> results.
>
> I'll do that. I was going to buy one anyway as I've probably damaged it by
> letting it get dry.
>
>
>
I don't have a great deal of experience in this stuff, but anyway here's
my two cents about some of the questions:
1) I'd say from what's been posted so far that as yet you can't be sure
the battery is too marginal to keep using. If you do buy a new battery,
I would try it in the bike and then depending on the results, I might
keep it as a known good test battery, trickle-charging it at least once
every couple of weeks.
2) Some trickle chargers, such as the Ctek, will recover a battery that
it is not too far gone, eg., somewhat sulphated.
3) Your alternator/regulator/rectifier could be acting differently at
different times, depending on how hot they are. What looks good when
the engine is cold may go bad when those parts heat up eg., because of
increased resistance.
4) If you haven't already, you might want to take readings both when the
engine is cold and hot. Mike Nixon at http :// www .motorcycleproject,com
has some tips about different tests, such as current, for isolating the
alternator and regulator. IIRC he suggests using a multi-meter that has
a 10 Amp ammeter plug and/or one of those cheap clamp DC current meters
that can be bought for less than fifteen bucks.
5) Be sure to use distilled water, I think sometimes it's called
de-ionized water for topping up a wet cell battery. The minerals in tap
water might prevent the proper chemical reactions, alter the makeup of
the plates and liquid.
p