Re: custom seats or seat mods.On Dec 20, 12:43 pm, Mark Olson <ols...@tiny.invalid> wrote:
> Rob Kleinschmidt wrote:
> > I'm running a BMW R100GS with a slightly modified solo seat
> > and am considering possible seat improvements.
>
> > What I have now is a stock seat with a gel pad added and
> > some foam rubber cushioning between the seat pan and frame.
> > I'd modified the seat mount to allow a little bit of extra travel
> > as the pan moves up and down.
>
> > Right now, I'm good for 300-400 mile days but would like to
> > increase my comfort level and distance abilities. It's also
> > very important to me to be able to get a foot down occasionally
> > for off-road riding, (29" inseam) so the seat has to remain
> > fairly narrow and low.
>
> > I think if I had my druthers, I'd start with a bare pan then build
> > it up and tear it down a few times using different materials
> > until I really got it right. Don't think I really have the time or
> > money for a project of this scope however, so it needs to
> > come out pretty good on the first try.
>
> > Anybody done any mods themselves, used any aftermarket
> > accessories such as Airhawk or had a custom seat made that
> > they're expecially happy with ?
>
> I have a Russell Day-Long seat on my Concours. It's pretty comfy
> because it spreads the load out over a wider area. The shape is what
> makes it work, not the softness of the foam.
>
> How much do you weigh? Russell has a standard and a heavy-duty saddle,
> the heavy-duty one is for folks over 225 lb IIRC, and has a built in
> metal spring, whereas the standard saddle uses a plastic thingy to
> maintain the shape. I could be misremembering all this.
>
> I do remember what I paid, it was roughly $600 all in, including
> shipping. Not cheap but when you're on a multi-thousand mile 10 day
> trip you'd easily pay double that to make your butt-burn go away.
>
> Anyway, what you need for ultimate comfort is something like an shaped
> like an old-style tractor seat.
>
> http :// www .keynamics,com /images/Contoured-Tractor-Seat.jpg
>
> Unfortunately that shape will work against you, with your short inside
> leg measurement.
>
> Lots of folks claim success having a local upholstery shop recover
> their saddles for cheap, using better foam, presumably also carved to
> shape. According to one person on the SV mailing list an electric
> carving knife is perfect for cutting seat foam. I still have a couple
> of large squares of very expensive Tempur-Foam that I bought for
> re-doing my SV's saddle which I haven't yet gotten around to doing just
> yet. If you do want to do you own seat building, 3M spray adhesive was
> recommended to bond the foam to the cover.
$600 for a Russel is about the most I could imagine paying,
though I like the spring idea. Not so sure about the Russell
butt wings though. Again, looks like it'd be hard to get a
foot down to stop a slide. I go about 200 lbs. I thought all
Russells used a spring seat.
I'd toyed with the idea of a tractor type seat as still found
(I think) on Urals, but shoehorning the spring mechanism
into my frame without raising the seat heigh would be a
littlle tricky. I could probably do it if I relocated the toolkit
and/or battery.
I'd already had a local shop add a gel pad to the stock
seat a few years ago. This was before memory foam
was popular. One think I could do, I guess, would be to
bring it back and have them throw another layer of stuff in.
I'd really wish I had a spare seat pan and the sewing skills to
be able to bang out a cover myself. I ready made seat covers
on eBay for ~ $45, but would need to have the seat shape
figured out to know if they'd be a match. A new cover made
locally sounds like the way to go.
Not really clear how much seat comfort depends on shock
absorbtion and how much on just getting a good contour to
your butt and a nice even load distribution.
Thanks for the ideas. I'll report back on anything I do.
If you do the Tempur mods, please do the same.