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Disc brake conversion
Disc brake conversion
I finally got my XS400 running good, and it is doing great. Thanks for
all of the help I have recieved from the group. I am not happy with
the excession travel required to engage the rear drum brake, so I am
thinking of going with a more responsive disc brake. This is a 1980
frame. What will be required to convert it to a disc wheel? I already
have the rear caliper, MC, lines, and pedal actuator. I am assuming
that the wheel will used all the same stuff as the drum wheel, maybe
need a different spacer. The one thing that concerns me is the
stabilizer arm for the caliper. Does the caliper use the same arm as
the drum, or is it different? I haven't ordered a wheel as of yet.
Also, I am assuming that any XS mag wheel will fit on this, like maybe
one from an XS650? Can the shafty wheels be converted to sprocket
easily? Thank you guys and gals.
J S White
Network Administrator / CISO
92-KDX200
83-GS8650L
80-XS400-Jap-Cafe-Racer
78-CB750
69-CD175
I finally got my XS400 running good, and it is doing great. Thanks for
all of the help I have recieved from the group. I am not happy with
the excession travel required to engage the rear drum brake, so I am
thinking of going with a more responsive disc brake. This is a 1980
frame. What will be required to convert it to a disc wheel? I already
have the rear caliper, MC, lines, and pedal actuator. I am assuming
that the wheel will used all the same stuff as the drum wheel, maybe
need a different spacer. The one thing that concerns me is the
stabilizer arm for the caliper. Does the caliper use the same arm as
the drum, or is it different? I haven't ordered a wheel as of yet.
Also, I am assuming that any XS mag wheel will fit on this, like maybe
one from an XS650? Can the shafty wheels be converted to sprocket
easily? Thank you guys and gals.
J S White
Network Administrator / CISO
92-KDX200
83-GS8650L
80-XS400-Jap-Cafe-Racer
78-CB750
69-CD175
Re: Disc brake conversion
JS <84fiero@gmail,com > wrote:
> I finally got my XS400 running good, and it is doing great. Thanks for
> all of the help I have recieved from the group. I am not happy with
> the excession travel required to engage the rear drum brake, so I am
> thinking of going with a more responsive disc brake. This is a 1980
> frame. What will be required to convert it to a disc wheel? I already
> have the rear caliper, MC, lines, and pedal actuator. I am assuming
> that the wheel will used all the same stuff as the drum wheel, maybe
> need a different spacer. The one thing that concerns me is the
> stabilizer arm for the caliper. Does the caliper use the same arm as
> the drum, or is it different? I haven't ordered a wheel as of yet.
> Also, I am assuming that any XS mag wheel will fit on this, like maybe
> one from an XS650? Can the shafty wheels be converted to sprocket
> easily? Thank you guys and gals.
>
Jesus. First, the easiest thing to do is sort out your rear drum brake.
There is nothing wrong with XS rear drums, and I think yours must need
attention if it's as bad as you say it is.
"Excessive travel" - have you tried winding in the adjuster at the end
of the brake rod, where it intersects with the operating arm on the
drum?
If you insist on converting it to disc (and it's a waste of time, as at
least three-quarters of the braking is handled by the front wheel), then
the easiest way to do it will be to find a disc XS400 rear wheel. You
will also need to source a new brake torque arm.
The caliper will need a proper rear wheel caliper mount.
An XS650 wheel almost certainly won't fit. Look for an XS400 one.
Converting shafty wheels to chain drive is hugely difficult and a
complete waste of time.
I repeat - get someone who knows a bit more than you do to look at your
existing rear drum set-up. It should be easily capable of locking the
rear wheel, and if it isn't, there's something wrong with it.
What you're proposing to do will involve a lot of time and hassle for no
tangible benefit.
--
BMW K1100LT Ducati 750SS Honda CB400F, SL125 & SH50
GAGARPHOF#30 GHPOTHUF#1 BOTAFOT#60 ANORAK#06 YTC#3
BOF#30 WUSS#5 The bells, the bells.....
chateau dot murray at idnet dot com
JS <84fiero@gmail,com > wrote:
> I finally got my XS400 running good, and it is doing great. Thanks for
> all of the help I have recieved from the group. I am not happy with
> the excession travel required to engage the rear drum brake, so I am
> thinking of going with a more responsive disc brake. This is a 1980
> frame. What will be required to convert it to a disc wheel? I already
> have the rear caliper, MC, lines, and pedal actuator. I am assuming
> that the wheel will used all the same stuff as the drum wheel, maybe
> need a different spacer. The one thing that concerns me is the
> stabilizer arm for the caliper. Does the caliper use the same arm as
> the drum, or is it different? I haven't ordered a wheel as of yet.
> Also, I am assuming that any XS mag wheel will fit on this, like maybe
> one from an XS650? Can the shafty wheels be converted to sprocket
> easily? Thank you guys and gals.
>
Jesus. First, the easiest thing to do is sort out your rear drum brake.
There is nothing wrong with XS rear drums, and I think yours must need
attention if it's as bad as you say it is.
"Excessive travel" - have you tried winding in the adjuster at the end
of the brake rod, where it intersects with the operating arm on the
drum?
If you insist on converting it to disc (and it's a waste of time, as at
least three-quarters of the braking is handled by the front wheel), then
the easiest way to do it will be to find a disc XS400 rear wheel. You
will also need to source a new brake torque arm.
The caliper will need a proper rear wheel caliper mount.
An XS650 wheel almost certainly won't fit. Look for an XS400 one.
Converting shafty wheels to chain drive is hugely difficult and a
complete waste of time.
I repeat - get someone who knows a bit more than you do to look at your
existing rear drum set-up. It should be easily capable of locking the
rear wheel, and if it isn't, there's something wrong with it.
What you're proposing to do will involve a lot of time and hassle for no
tangible benefit.
--
BMW K1100LT Ducati 750SS Honda CB400F, SL125 & SH50
GAGARPHOF#30 GHPOTHUF#1 BOTAFOT#60 ANORAK#06 YTC#3
BOF#30 WUSS#5 The bells, the bells.....
chateau dot murray at idnet dot com
Re: Disc brake conversion
The Older Gentleman wrote:
> What you're proposing to do will involve a lot of time and hassle for no
> tangible benefit.
In all seriousness, the preceding sentence should be considered for
inclusion in your .sig. Many modifications proposed on this newsgroup
fall into that category. I have never been able to figure out why
people willingly undertake a huge amount of work in order to avoid doing
the blindingly obvious thing, and simply returning the troublesome part
back to original condition.
--
'01 SV650SK1 '99 EX250-F13 '98 ZG1000-A13
OMF #7
The Older Gentleman wrote:
> What you're proposing to do will involve a lot of time and hassle for no
> tangible benefit.
In all seriousness, the preceding sentence should be considered for
inclusion in your .sig. Many modifications proposed on this newsgroup
fall into that category. I have never been able to figure out why
people willingly undertake a huge amount of work in order to avoid doing
the blindingly obvious thing, and simply returning the troublesome part
back to original condition.
--
'01 SV650SK1 '99 EX250-F13 '98 ZG1000-A13
OMF #7
Re: Disc brake conversion
Mark Olson <olsonm@tiny.invalid> wrote:
> > What you're proposing to do will involve a lot of time and hassle for no
> > tangible benefit.
>
> In all seriousness, the preceding sentence should be considered for
> inclusion in your .sig.
Heh. I've been meaning to update it.
--
BMW K1100LT Ducati 750SS Honda CB400F, SL125 & SH50
chateau dot murray at idnet dot com
"What you're proposing to do will involve a lot of time
and hassle for no tangible benefit."
Mark Olson <olsonm@tiny.invalid> wrote:
> > What you're proposing to do will involve a lot of time and hassle for no
> > tangible benefit.
>
> In all seriousness, the preceding sentence should be considered for
> inclusion in your .sig.
Heh. I've been meaning to update it.
--
BMW K1100LT Ducati 750SS Honda CB400F, SL125 & SH50
chateau dot murray at idnet dot com
"What you're proposing to do will involve a lot of time
and hassle for no tangible benefit."
Re: Disc brake conversion
On Mar 24, 10:09 am, totallydeadmail...@yahoo.co.uk (The Older
Gentleman) wrote:
> Mark Olson <ols...@tiny.invalid> wrote:
> > > What you're proposing to do will involve a lot of time and hassle for no
> > > tangible benefit.
>
> > In all seriousness, the preceding sentence should be considered for
> > inclusion in your .sig.
>
> Heh. I've been meaning to update it.
>
> --
> BMW K1100LT Ducati 750SS Honda CB400F, SL125 & SH50
> chateau dot murray at idnet dot com
> "What you're proposing to do will involve a lot of time
> and hassle for no tangible benefit."
Wow. So you guys assume that just because you think something is
stupid, that the person trying it is stupid too? I am doing this
because I want to. If you don't want to help, then don't bother
replying. I don't remember usenet belonging to you. Last time I
checked it belongs to everyone. I can very easily buy anything and
convert anything I want. The point was not buying anything I didn't
need. And I know plenty enough about the drum to make it work, you
simply don't understand my bike and my preferences. Are you telling me
that you should use the rear brake? What kind of riding do you do
anyway? Everyone knows that 75% of stopping is in the front brake.
Unfortunately the front brake is not the one you need to use in all
situations, especially with certain geometries and terrain. Of course
I needn't bother telling you this, since you already know everything.
I don't tell you what to do, don't tell me what to do. It is just a
shame. I was only asking for freindly advice. Since you aren't
friendly, don't bother me. The torque arm is what I was wondering
about, thanks for the info, I will just make one myself. Enjoy your
position at the top of the world. Oh wait, that is in the USA.
On Mar 24, 10:09 am, totallydeadmail...@yahoo.co.uk (The Older
Gentleman) wrote:
> Mark Olson <ols...@tiny.invalid> wrote:
> > > What you're proposing to do will involve a lot of time and hassle for no
> > > tangible benefit.
>
> > In all seriousness, the preceding sentence should be considered for
> > inclusion in your .sig.
>
> Heh. I've been meaning to update it.
>
> --
> BMW K1100LT Ducati 750SS Honda CB400F, SL125 & SH50
> chateau dot murray at idnet dot com
> "What you're proposing to do will involve a lot of time
> and hassle for no tangible benefit."
Wow. So you guys assume that just because you think something is
stupid, that the person trying it is stupid too? I am doing this
because I want to. If you don't want to help, then don't bother
replying. I don't remember usenet belonging to you. Last time I
checked it belongs to everyone. I can very easily buy anything and
convert anything I want. The point was not buying anything I didn't
need. And I know plenty enough about the drum to make it work, you
simply don't understand my bike and my preferences. Are you telling me
that you should use the rear brake? What kind of riding do you do
anyway? Everyone knows that 75% of stopping is in the front brake.
Unfortunately the front brake is not the one you need to use in all
situations, especially with certain geometries and terrain. Of course
I needn't bother telling you this, since you already know everything.
I don't tell you what to do, don't tell me what to do. It is just a
shame. I was only asking for freindly advice. Since you aren't
friendly, don't bother me. The torque arm is what I was wondering
about, thanks for the info, I will just make one myself. Enjoy your
position at the top of the world. Oh wait, that is in the USA.
Re: Disc brake conversion
JS wrote:
> Wow. So you guys assume that just because you think something is
> stupid, that the person trying it is stupid too? I am doing this
> because I want to. If you don't want to help, then don't bother
> replying. I don't remember usenet belonging to you. Last time I
> checked it belongs to everyone. I can very easily buy anything and
> convert anything I want. The point was not buying anything I didn't
> need. And I know plenty enough about the drum to make it work, you
> simply don't understand my bike and my preferences. Are you telling me
> that you should use the rear brake? What kind of riding do you do
> anyway? Everyone knows that 75% of stopping is in the front brake.
> Unfortunately the front brake is not the one you need to use in all
> situations, especially with certain geometries and terrain. Of course
> I needn't bother telling you this, since you already know everything.
> I don't tell you what to do, don't tell me what to do. It is just a
> shame. I was only asking for freindly advice. Since you aren't
> friendly, don't bother me. The torque arm is what I was wondering
> about, thanks for the info, I will just make one myself. Enjoy your
> position at the top of the world. Oh wait, that is in the USA.
If you don't want people commenting on what you post to Usenet, don't
post to Usenet. If you think replying to your posts constitutes
bothering you, I suggest you either grow a thicker skin or stop
posting for your own comfort. I don't care if you continue to post,
by all means do so, it doesn't bother me, and your posts may in fact
be useful.
And since you asked, yes, I think doing something stupid generally
indicates the person doing it is stupid. Swapping out a drum rear
brake on a run of the mill bike for a disk brake isn't a smart thing
to do, because it's quite easy to fix the drum brake and it works
fine for normal road use. If there was any benefit to going to a
disk brake it would be a reasonable thing to do, but switching to
a disk brake when all that is needed is a simple adjustment or
repair of the existing drum is gilding the lily at best.
--
'01 SV650SK1 '99 EX250-F13 '98 ZG1000-A13
OMF #7
JS wrote:
> Wow. So you guys assume that just because you think something is
> stupid, that the person trying it is stupid too? I am doing this
> because I want to. If you don't want to help, then don't bother
> replying. I don't remember usenet belonging to you. Last time I
> checked it belongs to everyone. I can very easily buy anything and
> convert anything I want. The point was not buying anything I didn't
> need. And I know plenty enough about the drum to make it work, you
> simply don't understand my bike and my preferences. Are you telling me
> that you should use the rear brake? What kind of riding do you do
> anyway? Everyone knows that 75% of stopping is in the front brake.
> Unfortunately the front brake is not the one you need to use in all
> situations, especially with certain geometries and terrain. Of course
> I needn't bother telling you this, since you already know everything.
> I don't tell you what to do, don't tell me what to do. It is just a
> shame. I was only asking for freindly advice. Since you aren't
> friendly, don't bother me. The torque arm is what I was wondering
> about, thanks for the info, I will just make one myself. Enjoy your
> position at the top of the world. Oh wait, that is in the USA.
If you don't want people commenting on what you post to Usenet, don't
post to Usenet. If you think replying to your posts constitutes
bothering you, I suggest you either grow a thicker skin or stop
posting for your own comfort. I don't care if you continue to post,
by all means do so, it doesn't bother me, and your posts may in fact
be useful.
And since you asked, yes, I think doing something stupid generally
indicates the person doing it is stupid. Swapping out a drum rear
brake on a run of the mill bike for a disk brake isn't a smart thing
to do, because it's quite easy to fix the drum brake and it works
fine for normal road use. If there was any benefit to going to a
disk brake it would be a reasonable thing to do, but switching to
a disk brake when all that is needed is a simple adjustment or
repair of the existing drum is gilding the lily at best.
--
'01 SV650SK1 '99 EX250-F13 '98 ZG1000-A13
OMF #7
Re: Disc brake conversion
JS <84fiero@gmail,com > wrote:
> On Mar 24, 10:09 am, totallydeadmail...@yahoo.co.uk (The Older
> Gentleman) wrote:
> > Mark Olson <ols...@tiny.invalid> wrote:
> > > > What you're proposing to do will involve a lot of time and hassle for no
> > > > tangible benefit.
> >
> > > In all seriousness, the preceding sentence should be considered for
> > > inclusion in your .sig.
> >
> > Heh. I've been meaning to update it.
> >
> > --
> > BMW K1100LT Ducati 750SS Honda CB400F, SL125 & SH50
> > chateau dot murray at idnet dot com
> > "What you're proposing to do will involve a lot of time
> > and hassle for no tangible benefit."
>
> Wow. So you guys assume that just because you think something is
> stupid, that the person trying it is stupid too? I am doing this
> because I want to. If you don't want to help, then don't bother
> replying. I don't remember usenet belonging to you. Last time I
> checked it belongs to everyone. I can very easily buy anything and
> convert anything I want. The point was not buying anything I didn't
> need. And I know plenty enough about the drum to make it work, you
> simply don't understand my bike and my preferences. Are you telling me
> that you should use the rear brake? What kind of riding do you do
> anyway? Everyone knows that 75% of stopping is in the front brake.
> Unfortunately the front brake is not the one you need to use in all
> situations, especially with certain geometries and terrain. Of course
> I needn't bother telling you this, since you already know everything.
> I don't tell you what to do, don't tell me what to do. It is just a
> shame. I was only asking for freindly advice. Since you aren't
> friendly, don't bother me. The torque arm is what I was wondering
> about, thanks for the info, I will just make one myself. Enjoy your
> position at the top of the world. Oh wait, that is in the USA.
Look, I gave you pretty precise details about doing the conversion you
suggest, including answering your questions.
I repeat: if your rear brake has too much travel on the pedal, adjust
it.
If the adjuster is already wound in, replace the brake shoes. Clean out
the drum at the same time. Strip, clean and grease the operating arm
pivot pin.
If it's got new shoes and the adjuster is wound too far in, reposition
the operating arm on the splines of the pivot pin, because it's in the
wrong position.
When a brake can lock a wheel, that's it: you can't have any more. And
an XS rear drum, in good working order, is more than capable of doing
that.
Oh, and the USA isn't on top of the world. Not while you're still
getting a kicking from Iraq.
--
BMW K1100LT Ducati 750SS Honda CB400F, SL125 & SH50
chateau dot murray at idnet dot com
"What you're proposing to do will involve a lot of time
and hassle for no tangible benefit."
JS <84fiero@gmail,com > wrote:
> On Mar 24, 10:09 am, totallydeadmail...@yahoo.co.uk (The Older
> Gentleman) wrote:
> > Mark Olson <ols...@tiny.invalid> wrote:
> > > > What you're proposing to do will involve a lot of time and hassle for no
> > > > tangible benefit.
> >
> > > In all seriousness, the preceding sentence should be considered for
> > > inclusion in your .sig.
> >
> > Heh. I've been meaning to update it.
> >
> > --
> > BMW K1100LT Ducati 750SS Honda CB400F, SL125 & SH50
> > chateau dot murray at idnet dot com
> > "What you're proposing to do will involve a lot of time
> > and hassle for no tangible benefit."
>
> Wow. So you guys assume that just because you think something is
> stupid, that the person trying it is stupid too? I am doing this
> because I want to. If you don't want to help, then don't bother
> replying. I don't remember usenet belonging to you. Last time I
> checked it belongs to everyone. I can very easily buy anything and
> convert anything I want. The point was not buying anything I didn't
> need. And I know plenty enough about the drum to make it work, you
> simply don't understand my bike and my preferences. Are you telling me
> that you should use the rear brake? What kind of riding do you do
> anyway? Everyone knows that 75% of stopping is in the front brake.
> Unfortunately the front brake is not the one you need to use in all
> situations, especially with certain geometries and terrain. Of course
> I needn't bother telling you this, since you already know everything.
> I don't tell you what to do, don't tell me what to do. It is just a
> shame. I was only asking for freindly advice. Since you aren't
> friendly, don't bother me. The torque arm is what I was wondering
> about, thanks for the info, I will just make one myself. Enjoy your
> position at the top of the world. Oh wait, that is in the USA.
Look, I gave you pretty precise details about doing the conversion you
suggest, including answering your questions.
I repeat: if your rear brake has too much travel on the pedal, adjust
it.
If the adjuster is already wound in, replace the brake shoes. Clean out
the drum at the same time. Strip, clean and grease the operating arm
pivot pin.
If it's got new shoes and the adjuster is wound too far in, reposition
the operating arm on the splines of the pivot pin, because it's in the
wrong position.
When a brake can lock a wheel, that's it: you can't have any more. And
an XS rear drum, in good working order, is more than capable of doing
that.
Oh, and the USA isn't on top of the world. Not while you're still
getting a kicking from Iraq.
--
BMW K1100LT Ducati 750SS Honda CB400F, SL125 & SH50
chateau dot murray at idnet dot com
"What you're proposing to do will involve a lot of time
and hassle for no tangible benefit."
Re: Disc brake conversion
On Mar 24, 6:36 am, JS <84fi...@gmail,com > wrote:
> On Mar 24, 10:09 am, totallydeadmail...@yahoo.co.uk (The Older
>
> Gentleman) wrote:
> > Mark Olson <ols...@tiny.invalid> wrote:
> > > > What you're proposing to do will involve a lot of time and hassle for no
> > > > tangible benefit.
>
> > > In all seriousness, the preceding sentence should be considered for
> > > inclusion in your .sig.
>
> > Heh. I've been meaning to update it.
>
> > --
> > BMW K1100LT Ducati 750SS Honda CB400F, SL125 & SH50
> > chateau dot murray at idnet dot com
> > "What you're proposing to do will involve a lot of time
> > and hassle for no tangible benefit."
>
> Wow. So you guys assume that just because you think something is
> stupid, that the person trying it is stupid too? I am doing this
> because I want to. If you don't want to help, then don't bother
> replying. I don't remember usenet belonging to you. Last time I
> checked it belongs to everyone. I can very easily buy anything and
> convert anything I want.
If it was a front wheel, there might be some point, though
there'd be a lot of work. On a rear wheel, there'd be no
benefit and a lot of work. Absolute worst case, the drum
might be worn but dealing with it would likely be a lot
less work than a wheel swap.
If you feel compentent to do the machining and possible
welding needed, go for it. I doubt anybody else has
tried this due to the lack of benefit, as they've already
explained.
If you just want a bike that stops well, look for the
Vintage Brake site and check out some of their
suggestions.
On Mar 24, 6:36 am, JS <84fi...@gmail,com > wrote:
> On Mar 24, 10:09 am, totallydeadmail...@yahoo.co.uk (The Older
>
> Gentleman) wrote:
> > Mark Olson <ols...@tiny.invalid> wrote:
> > > > What you're proposing to do will involve a lot of time and hassle for no
> > > > tangible benefit.
>
> > > In all seriousness, the preceding sentence should be considered for
> > > inclusion in your .sig.
>
> > Heh. I've been meaning to update it.
>
> > --
> > BMW K1100LT Ducati 750SS Honda CB400F, SL125 & SH50
> > chateau dot murray at idnet dot com
> > "What you're proposing to do will involve a lot of time
> > and hassle for no tangible benefit."
>
> Wow. So you guys assume that just because you think something is
> stupid, that the person trying it is stupid too? I am doing this
> because I want to. If you don't want to help, then don't bother
> replying. I don't remember usenet belonging to you. Last time I
> checked it belongs to everyone. I can very easily buy anything and
> convert anything I want.
If it was a front wheel, there might be some point, though
there'd be a lot of work. On a rear wheel, there'd be no
benefit and a lot of work. Absolute worst case, the drum
might be worn but dealing with it would likely be a lot
less work than a wheel swap.
If you feel compentent to do the machining and possible
welding needed, go for it. I doubt anybody else has
tried this due to the lack of benefit, as they've already
explained.
If you just want a bike that stops well, look for the
Vintage Brake site and check out some of their
suggestions.
Re: Disc brake conversion
> Absolute worst case, the drum
> might be worn but dealing with it would likely be a lot
> less work than a wheel swap.
Just out of academic interest (I have an XS400 with a rear drum with
plenty of life left in it)... is the drum integral to the wheel,
meaning a new wheel is needed if the drum diameter becomes worn too
large, or is it possible to re-drum the existing wheel?
> Absolute worst case, the drum
> might be worn but dealing with it would likely be a lot
> less work than a wheel swap.
Just out of academic interest (I have an XS400 with a rear drum with
plenty of life left in it)... is the drum integral to the wheel,
meaning a new wheel is needed if the drum diameter becomes worn too
large, or is it possible to re-drum the existing wheel?
Re: Disc brake conversion
tylernt <tylernt@gmail,com > wrote:
> > Absolute worst case, the drum
> > might be worn but dealing with it would likely be a lot
> > less work than a wheel swap.
>
> Just out of academic interest (I have an XS400 with a rear drum with
> plenty of life left in it)... is the drum integral to the wheel,
> meaning a new wheel is needed if the drum diameter becomes worn too
> large, or is it possible to re-drum the existing wheel?
Funnily enough, I've looked at this in the past, having once possessed a
Honda CB550 four with a cracked drum/inner hub.
In this case, the hub had a cast iron inner lining and in theory it
could be re-lined, but it was way more time-consuming and expensive than
just getting a used wheel with a good hub.
Cast alloy wheels - if they're unlined, and I don't recall seeing any
that are, then you're in trouble, as re-machining the hub is out because
the brake linings will be too small.
In practice, as brake linings are designed to wear and hubs aren't, it
isn't a problem.
What is a problem is, as pointed out above, a cracked hub, which is far
more common.
--
BMW K1100LT Ducati 750SS Honda CB400F, SL125 & SH50
chateau dot murray at idnet dot com
"What you're proposing to do will involve a lot of time
and hassle for no tangible benefit."
tylernt <tylernt@gmail,com > wrote:
> > Absolute worst case, the drum
> > might be worn but dealing with it would likely be a lot
> > less work than a wheel swap.
>
> Just out of academic interest (I have an XS400 with a rear drum with
> plenty of life left in it)... is the drum integral to the wheel,
> meaning a new wheel is needed if the drum diameter becomes worn too
> large, or is it possible to re-drum the existing wheel?
Funnily enough, I've looked at this in the past, having once possessed a
Honda CB550 four with a cracked drum/inner hub.
In this case, the hub had a cast iron inner lining and in theory it
could be re-lined, but it was way more time-consuming and expensive than
just getting a used wheel with a good hub.
Cast alloy wheels - if they're unlined, and I don't recall seeing any
that are, then you're in trouble, as re-machining the hub is out because
the brake linings will be too small.
In practice, as brake linings are designed to wear and hubs aren't, it
isn't a problem.
What is a problem is, as pointed out above, a cracked hub, which is far
more common.
--
BMW K1100LT Ducati 750SS Honda CB400F, SL125 & SH50
chateau dot murray at idnet dot com
"What you're proposing to do will involve a lot of time
and hassle for no tangible benefit."
Re: Disc brake conversion
***************************
>On Sat, 29 Mar 2008 11:54:57 -0700 (PDT), tylernt <tylernt@gmail,com > wrote:
>> Absolute worst case, the drum
>> might be worn but dealing with it would likely be a lot
>> less work than a wheel swap.
>
>Just out of academic interest (I have an XS400 with a rear drum with
>plenty of life left in it)... is the drum integral to the wheel,
>meaning a new wheel is needed if the drum diameter becomes worn too
>large, or is it possible to re-drum the existing wheel?
***************************
A local machine shop relines atv brake drums with a cast iron ring.
I don't see why a similar operation can't be done with motorcycle
wheels.
Wudsracer/Jim Cook
Smackover Racing
'06 Gas Gas DE300
'82 Husqvarna XC250
Team LAGNAF
***************************
>On Sat, 29 Mar 2008 11:54:57 -0700 (PDT), tylernt <tylernt@gmail,com > wrote:
>> Absolute worst case, the drum
>> might be worn but dealing with it would likely be a lot
>> less work than a wheel swap.
>
>Just out of academic interest (I have an XS400 with a rear drum with
>plenty of life left in it)... is the drum integral to the wheel,
>meaning a new wheel is needed if the drum diameter becomes worn too
>large, or is it possible to re-drum the existing wheel?
***************************
A local machine shop relines atv brake drums with a cast iron ring.
I don't see why a similar operation can't be done with motorcycle
wheels.
Wudsracer/Jim Cook
Smackover Racing
'06 Gas Gas DE300
'82 Husqvarna XC250
Team LAGNAF
Re: Disc brake conversion
Wudsracer <dirtbike_smackoverRemove@yahoo,com > wrote:
> A local machine shop relines atv brake drums with a cast iron ring.
> I don't see why a similar operation can't be done with motorcycle
> wheels.
Quite. Like I said, though, it's often easier and cheaper just to buy a
used wheel.
--
BMW K1100LT Ducati 750SS Honda CB400F, SL125 & SH50
chateau dot murray at idnet dot com
"What you're proposing to do will involve a lot of time
and hassle for no tangible benefit."
Wudsracer <dirtbike_smackoverRemove@yahoo,com > wrote:
> A local machine shop relines atv brake drums with a cast iron ring.
> I don't see why a similar operation can't be done with motorcycle
> wheels.
Quite. Like I said, though, it's often easier and cheaper just to buy a
used wheel.
--
BMW K1100LT Ducati 750SS Honda CB400F, SL125 & SH50
chateau dot murray at idnet dot com
"What you're proposing to do will involve a lot of time
and hassle for no tangible benefit."
Re: Disc brake conversion
On Mar 29, 1:42 pm, totallydeadmail...@yahoo.co.uk (The Older
Gentleman) wrote:
> Wudsracer <dirtbike smackoverRem...@yahoo,com > wrote:
> > A local machine shop relines atv brake drums with a cast iron ring.
> > I don't see why a similar operation can't be done with motorcycle
> > wheels.
>
> Quite. Like I said, though, it's often easier and cheaper just to buy a
> used wheel.
Last time I had to do this cost me about
$300 for a used wheel. Another solution I've
heard of but haven't tried is extra thick
pads in the worn drum.
On Mar 29, 1:42 pm, totallydeadmail...@yahoo.co.uk (The Older
Gentleman) wrote:
> Wudsracer <dirtbike smackoverRem...@yahoo,com > wrote:
> > A local machine shop relines atv brake drums with a cast iron ring.
> > I don't see why a similar operation can't be done with motorcycle
> > wheels.
>
> Quite. Like I said, though, it's often easier and cheaper just to buy a
> used wheel.
Last time I had to do this cost me about
$300 for a used wheel. Another solution I've
heard of but haven't tried is extra thick
pads in the worn drum.
Re: Disc brake conversion
Rob Kleinschmidt <Rkleinsch1216128@aol,com > wrote:
> On Mar 29, 1:42 pm, totallydeadmail...@yahoo.co.uk (The Older
> Gentleman) wrote:
> > Wudsracer <dirtbike_smackoverRem...@yahoo,com > wrote:
> > > A local machine shop relines atv brake drums with a cast iron ring.
> > > I don't see why a similar operation can't be done with motorcycle
> > > wheels.
> >
> > Quite. Like I said, though, it's often easier and cheaper just to buy a
> > used wheel.
>
> Last time I had to do this cost me about
> $300 for a used wheel.
God God. Used rear wheels are normally dirt cheap.
>Another solution I've
> heard of but haven't tried is extra thick
> pads in the worn drum.
Yeah, but how would you get extra-thick shoes?
--
BMW K1100LT Ducati 750SS Honda CB400F, SL125 & SH50
chateau dot murray at idnet dot com
"What you're proposing to do will involve a lot of time
and hassle for no tangible benefit."
Rob Kleinschmidt <Rkleinsch1216128@aol,com > wrote:
> On Mar 29, 1:42 pm, totallydeadmail...@yahoo.co.uk (The Older
> Gentleman) wrote:
> > Wudsracer <dirtbike_smackoverRem...@yahoo,com > wrote:
> > > A local machine shop relines atv brake drums with a cast iron ring.
> > > I don't see why a similar operation can't be done with motorcycle
> > > wheels.
> >
> > Quite. Like I said, though, it's often easier and cheaper just to buy a
> > used wheel.
>
> Last time I had to do this cost me about
> $300 for a used wheel.
God God. Used rear wheels are normally dirt cheap.
>Another solution I've
> heard of but haven't tried is extra thick
> pads in the worn drum.
Yeah, but how would you get extra-thick shoes?
--
BMW K1100LT Ducati 750SS Honda CB400F, SL125 & SH50
chateau dot murray at idnet dot com
"What you're proposing to do will involve a lot of time
and hassle for no tangible benefit."
Re: Disc brake conversion
totallydeadmailbox@yahoo.co.uk (The Older Gentleman) writes:
> Rob Kleinschmidt <Rkleinsch1216128@aol,com > wrote:
>
>> On Mar 29, 1:42 pm, totallydeadmail...@yahoo.co.uk (The Older
>> Gentleman) wrote:
>> > Wudsracer <dirtbike_smackoverRem...@yahoo,com > wrote:
>> > > A local machine shop relines atv brake drums with a cast iron ring.
>> > > I don't see why a similar operation can't be done with motorcycle
>> > > wheels.
>> >
>> > Quite. Like I said, though, it's often easier and cheaper just to buy a
>> > used wheel.
>>
>> Last time I had to do this cost me about
>> $300 for a used wheel.
>
> God God. Used rear wheels are normally dirt cheap.
>
>>Another solution I've
>> heard of but haven't tried is extra thick
>> pads in the worn drum.
>
> Yeah, but how would you get extra-thick shoes?
From a place that relines brake shoes. There are still a few around - on
some classic cars the drums are made out of unobtanium so people
invented various workarounds like thicker linings.
--
Morini Corsaro 125 | CB450K4 | XL250 Motosport | 900SSD | R1150RT
Laverda SF2 | Harley FXD BOTAFOF #33 TWA#10
The UKRM FAQ: http :// www .ukrm,net /faq/index.html
"Je profite du paysage" - Joe Bar
totallydeadmailbox@yahoo.co.uk (The Older Gentleman) writes:
> Rob Kleinschmidt <Rkleinsch1216128@aol,com > wrote:
>
>> On Mar 29, 1:42 pm, totallydeadmail...@yahoo.co.uk (The Older
>> Gentleman) wrote:
>> > Wudsracer <dirtbike_smackoverRem...@yahoo,com > wrote:
>> > > A local machine shop relines atv brake drums with a cast iron ring.
>> > > I don't see why a similar operation can't be done with motorcycle
>> > > wheels.
>> >
>> > Quite. Like I said, though, it's often easier and cheaper just to buy a
>> > used wheel.
>>
>> Last time I had to do this cost me about
>> $300 for a used wheel.
>
> God God. Used rear wheels are normally dirt cheap.
>
>>Another solution I've
>> heard of but haven't tried is extra thick
>> pads in the worn drum.
>
> Yeah, but how would you get extra-thick shoes?
From a place that relines brake shoes. There are still a few around - on
some classic cars the drums are made out of unobtanium so people
invented various workarounds like thicker linings.
--
Morini Corsaro 125 | CB450K4 | XL250 Motosport | 900SSD | R1150RT
Laverda SF2 | Harley FXD BOTAFOF #33 TWA#10
The UKRM FAQ: http :// www .ukrm,net /faq/index.html
"Je profite du paysage" - Joe Bar
