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B&W film developing questions
B&W film developing questions
Ok, I just developed my first 3 rolls of film at home, and except for a
little bit of dust on the last roll the results are excellent. I'll
sporadically be developing more over the next couple of months.
I'm using Rodinal, Arista's indicator stop bath, Arista's Universal
non-hardening fixer, and Kentflo.
Questions:
1. The Rodinal says undiluted it will last 6 months. Can I be safe to
assume it will last that long?
Also, with the Rodinal I've been developing only one roll per mix
because I'm new at this. With Accufine, the previous developer I used,
I would do a couple of rolls in one canister before dumping back into my
storage container and replenishing. And after 3 months at the same
developing time my negs were a little light.
Can I develop more than one roll of film in my Rodinal?
2. The stop is the least of my worries, right? It should be ok for a
couple dozen rolls over the next couple of months?
3. What's the expected longevity of the fixer?
Thanks,
Greg
Ok, I just developed my first 3 rolls of film at home, and except for a
little bit of dust on the last roll the results are excellent. I'll
sporadically be developing more over the next couple of months.
I'm using Rodinal, Arista's indicator stop bath, Arista's Universal
non-hardening fixer, and Kentflo.
Questions:
1. The Rodinal says undiluted it will last 6 months. Can I be safe to
assume it will last that long?
Also, with the Rodinal I've been developing only one roll per mix
because I'm new at this. With Accufine, the previous developer I used,
I would do a couple of rolls in one canister before dumping back into my
storage container and replenishing. And after 3 months at the same
developing time my negs were a little light.
Can I develop more than one roll of film in my Rodinal?
2. The stop is the least of my worries, right? It should be ok for a
couple dozen rolls over the next couple of months?
3. What's the expected longevity of the fixer?
Thanks,
Greg
Re: B&W film developing questions
"G.T." <getnews1@dslextreme . com > wrote in message
news:13nu7g7ikfj9be3@corp.supernews . com ...
> Ok, I just developed my first 3 rolls of film at home, and except for a
> little bit of dust on the last roll the results are excellent. I'll
> sporadically be developing more over the next couple of months.
>
> I'm using Rodinal, Arista's indicator stop bath, Arista's Universal
> non-hardening fixer, and Kentflo.
>
> Questions:
>
> 1. The Rodinal says undiluted it will last 6 months. Can I be safe to
> assume it will last that long?
>
> Also, with the Rodinal I've been developing only one roll per mix because
> I'm new at this. With Accufine, the previous developer I used, I would do
> a couple of rolls in one canister before dumping back into my storage
> container and replenishing. And after 3 months at the same developing
> time my negs were a little light.
>
> Can I develop more than one roll of film in my Rodinal?
>
> 2. The stop is the least of my worries, right? It should be ok for a
> couple dozen rolls over the next couple of months?
>
> 3. What's the expected longevity of the fixer?
>
> Thanks,
> Greg
My two bits -
Rodinal is one time use. But you are using 1:25 or 1:50 or even 1:100 such
that you use so little that the one time use is plenty. No replenishment,
no multiple use.
My own prediliction is to decant the 500ml container into 1 oz (30 ml) glass
amber bottles. I keep these tightly capped and use them in succession. No
problem at all. Way back when, I recall a story about a partially used
bottle of Rodinal found in the late 1940s/early 1950s amongst the bombed
ruins during the German reconstruction. Turned out the contents were as
good as new, despite the summer heat and the winter cold.
I don't use any commercial stop. I use two successive water rinses instead.
The rule of thumb with fixers is in room light to toss a piece of
undeveloped film scrap into the fixer - for 35mm, the leader/trailer of the
roll is ideal. Time how long it takes for the film to clear. Fix for
double that time. When the fixing period extends more than 10-12 minutes or
so, time for mix new fixer. Keep the fixer in a dark, cool place.
"G.T." <getnews1@dslextreme . com > wrote in message
news:13nu7g7ikfj9be3@corp.supernews . com ...
> Ok, I just developed my first 3 rolls of film at home, and except for a
> little bit of dust on the last roll the results are excellent. I'll
> sporadically be developing more over the next couple of months.
>
> I'm using Rodinal, Arista's indicator stop bath, Arista's Universal
> non-hardening fixer, and Kentflo.
>
> Questions:
>
> 1. The Rodinal says undiluted it will last 6 months. Can I be safe to
> assume it will last that long?
>
> Also, with the Rodinal I've been developing only one roll per mix because
> I'm new at this. With Accufine, the previous developer I used, I would do
> a couple of rolls in one canister before dumping back into my storage
> container and replenishing. And after 3 months at the same developing
> time my negs were a little light.
>
> Can I develop more than one roll of film in my Rodinal?
>
> 2. The stop is the least of my worries, right? It should be ok for a
> couple dozen rolls over the next couple of months?
>
> 3. What's the expected longevity of the fixer?
>
> Thanks,
> Greg
My two bits -
Rodinal is one time use. But you are using 1:25 or 1:50 or even 1:100 such
that you use so little that the one time use is plenty. No replenishment,
no multiple use.
My own prediliction is to decant the 500ml container into 1 oz (30 ml) glass
amber bottles. I keep these tightly capped and use them in succession. No
problem at all. Way back when, I recall a story about a partially used
bottle of Rodinal found in the late 1940s/early 1950s amongst the bombed
ruins during the German reconstruction. Turned out the contents were as
good as new, despite the summer heat and the winter cold.
I don't use any commercial stop. I use two successive water rinses instead.
The rule of thumb with fixers is in room light to toss a piece of
undeveloped film scrap into the fixer - for 35mm, the leader/trailer of the
roll is ideal. Time how long it takes for the film to clear. Fix for
double that time. When the fixing period extends more than 10-12 minutes or
so, time for mix new fixer. Keep the fixer in a dark, cool place.
Re: B&W film developing questions
Lawrence Akutagawa wrote:
>
>
> My two bits -
>
> Rodinal is one time use. But you are using 1:25 or 1:50 or even 1:100 such
> that you use so little that the one time use is plenty. No replenishment,
> no multiple use.
Thanks for the confirmation.
>
> My own prediliction is to decant the 500ml container into 1 oz (30 ml) glass
> amber bottles. I keep these tightly capped and use them in succession. No
> problem at all. Way back when, I recall a story about a partially used
> bottle of Rodinal found in the late 1940s/early 1950s amongst the bombed
> ruins during the German reconstruction. Turned out the contents were as
> good as new, despite the summer heat and the winter cold.
>
> I don't use any commercial stop. I use two successive water rinses instead.
>
> The rule of thumb with fixers is in room light to toss a piece of
> undeveloped film scrap into the fixer - for 35mm, the leader/trailer of the
> roll is ideal. Time how long it takes for the film to clear. Fix for
> double that time. When the fixing period extends more than 10-12 minutes or
> so, time for mix new fixer. Keep the fixer in a dark, cool place.
Awesome. Thanks for the tip about the fixer.
Greg
Lawrence Akutagawa wrote:
>
>
> My two bits -
>
> Rodinal is one time use. But you are using 1:25 or 1:50 or even 1:100 such
> that you use so little that the one time use is plenty. No replenishment,
> no multiple use.
Thanks for the confirmation.
>
> My own prediliction is to decant the 500ml container into 1 oz (30 ml) glass
> amber bottles. I keep these tightly capped and use them in succession. No
> problem at all. Way back when, I recall a story about a partially used
> bottle of Rodinal found in the late 1940s/early 1950s amongst the bombed
> ruins during the German reconstruction. Turned out the contents were as
> good as new, despite the summer heat and the winter cold.
>
> I don't use any commercial stop. I use two successive water rinses instead.
>
> The rule of thumb with fixers is in room light to toss a piece of
> undeveloped film scrap into the fixer - for 35mm, the leader/trailer of the
> roll is ideal. Time how long it takes for the film to clear. Fix for
> double that time. When the fixing period extends more than 10-12 minutes or
> so, time for mix new fixer. Keep the fixer in a dark, cool place.
Awesome. Thanks for the tip about the fixer.
Greg
Re: B&W film developing questions
"Lawrence Akutagawa" <lakuNOSPAM@sbcglobal . net > wrote in message
news:REHfj.3070$El5.969@newssvr22.news.prodigy . net ...
> My own prediliction is to decant the 500ml container into 1 oz (30 ml)
> glass amber bottles.
Yep! The bottles with the expressed cap that displaces the last bit of
Rodinal. Air free. Done that way, Rodinal will last forever.
"Lawrence Akutagawa" <lakuNOSPAM@sbcglobal . net > wrote in message
news:REHfj.3070$El5.969@newssvr22.news.prodigy . net ...
> My own prediliction is to decant the 500ml container into 1 oz (30 ml)
> glass amber bottles.
Yep! The bottles with the expressed cap that displaces the last bit of
Rodinal. Air free. Done that way, Rodinal will last forever.
Re: B&W film developing questions
pico wrote:
> "Lawrence Akutagawa" <lakuNOSPAM@sbcglobal . net > wrote in message
> news:REHfj.3070$El5.969@newssvr22.news.prodigy . net ...
>
>> My own prediliction is to decant the 500ml container into 1 oz (30 ml)
>> glass amber bottles.
>
> Yep! The bottles with the expressed cap that displaces the last bit of
> Rodinal. Air free. Done that way, Rodinal will last forever.
>
>
I remember back a LONG time ago, Rodinal came in an amber bottle
with a rubber stopper under the cap. Since my father was a doctor, I
got a hold of a large syringe and needle and was able to extract and
measure small amounts of developer without ever adding any air to the
bottle.
I guess that can't be done anymore :)
pico wrote:
> "Lawrence Akutagawa" <lakuNOSPAM@sbcglobal . net > wrote in message
> news:REHfj.3070$El5.969@newssvr22.news.prodigy . net ...
>
>> My own prediliction is to decant the 500ml container into 1 oz (30 ml)
>> glass amber bottles.
>
> Yep! The bottles with the expressed cap that displaces the last bit of
> Rodinal. Air free. Done that way, Rodinal will last forever.
>
>
I remember back a LONG time ago, Rodinal came in an amber bottle
with a rubber stopper under the cap. Since my father was a doctor, I
got a hold of a large syringe and needle and was able to extract and
measure small amounts of developer without ever adding any air to the
bottle.
I guess that can't be done anymore :)
Re: B&W film developing questions
In article <REHfj.3070$El5.969@newssvr22.news.prodigy . net >,
"Lawrence Akutagawa" <lakuNOSPAM@sbcglobal . net > writes:
>
> The rule of thumb with fixers is in room light to toss a piece of
> undeveloped film scrap into the fixer - for 35mm, the leader/trailer of the
> roll is ideal. Time how long it takes for the film to clear. Fix for
> double that time. When the fixing period extends more than 10-12 minutes or
> so, time for mix new fixer. Keep the fixer in a dark, cool place.
Note that fixing and clearing times vary greatly, both from one film to
another and from one fixer to another. Personally, I generally use rapid
fixers (based on ammonium thiosulfate rather than sodium thiosulfate),
which fix films in about two minutes. In fact, the fixers I use often
clear films in 30 seconds or less. The general rule of thumb is to fix for
twice the clearing times (some people say three times for T-grain films),
but I err on the side of the longer time if I get, say, a 30-second fixing
time and the product documentation recommends a 2-minute time.
A 10-12 minute fixing time sounds very long to me, but you might well get
into that range toward the end of the useful life of a fixer based on
sodium thiosulfate.
--
Rod Smith, rodsmith@rodsbooks . com
* w w w .rodsbooks . com
Author of books on Linux, FreeBSD, and networking
In article <REHfj.3070$El5.969@newssvr22.news.prodigy . net >,
"Lawrence Akutagawa" <lakuNOSPAM@sbcglobal . net > writes:
>
> The rule of thumb with fixers is in room light to toss a piece of
> undeveloped film scrap into the fixer - for 35mm, the leader/trailer of the
> roll is ideal. Time how long it takes for the film to clear. Fix for
> double that time. When the fixing period extends more than 10-12 minutes or
> so, time for mix new fixer. Keep the fixer in a dark, cool place.
Note that fixing and clearing times vary greatly, both from one film to
another and from one fixer to another. Personally, I generally use rapid
fixers (based on ammonium thiosulfate rather than sodium thiosulfate),
which fix films in about two minutes. In fact, the fixers I use often
clear films in 30 seconds or less. The general rule of thumb is to fix for
twice the clearing times (some people say three times for T-grain films),
but I err on the side of the longer time if I get, say, a 30-second fixing
time and the product documentation recommends a 2-minute time.
A 10-12 minute fixing time sounds very long to me, but you might well get
into that range toward the end of the useful life of a fixer based on
sodium thiosulfate.
--
Rod Smith, rodsmith@rodsbooks . com
* w w w .rodsbooks . com
Author of books on Linux, FreeBSD, and networking
Re: B&W film developing questions
"Rod Smith" <rodsmith@nessus.rodsbooks . com > wrote in message
news:vs3b55-5n7.ln1@speaker.rodsbooks . com ...
> In article <REHfj.3070$El5.969@newssvr22.news.prodigy . net >,
> "Lawrence Akutagawa" <lakuNOSPAM@sbcglobal . net > writes:
>>
>> The rule of thumb with fixers is in room light to toss a piece of
>> undeveloped film scrap into the fixer - for 35mm, the leader/trailer of
>> the
>> roll is ideal. Time how long it takes for the film to clear. Fix for
>> double that time. When the fixing period extends more than 10-12 minutes
>> or
>> so, time for mix new fixer. Keep the fixer in a dark, cool place.
>
> Note that fixing and clearing times vary greatly, both from one film to
> another and from one fixer to another. Personally, I generally use rapid
> fixers (based on ammonium thiosulfate rather than sodium thiosulfate),
> which fix films in about two minutes. In fact, the fixers I use often
> clear films in 30 seconds or less. The general rule of thumb is to fix for
> twice the clearing times (some people say three times for T-grain films),
> but I err on the side of the longer time if I get, say, a 30-second fixing
> time and the product documentation recommends a 2-minute time.
>
> A 10-12 minute fixing time sounds very long to me, but you might well get
> into that range toward the end of the useful life of a fixer based on
> sodium thiosulfate.
I forgot to ask one question. What is the effect of fixing for too long?
Greg
"Rod Smith" <rodsmith@nessus.rodsbooks . com > wrote in message
news:vs3b55-5n7.ln1@speaker.rodsbooks . com ...
> In article <REHfj.3070$El5.969@newssvr22.news.prodigy . net >,
> "Lawrence Akutagawa" <lakuNOSPAM@sbcglobal . net > writes:
>>
>> The rule of thumb with fixers is in room light to toss a piece of
>> undeveloped film scrap into the fixer - for 35mm, the leader/trailer of
>> the
>> roll is ideal. Time how long it takes for the film to clear. Fix for
>> double that time. When the fixing period extends more than 10-12 minutes
>> or
>> so, time for mix new fixer. Keep the fixer in a dark, cool place.
>
> Note that fixing and clearing times vary greatly, both from one film to
> another and from one fixer to another. Personally, I generally use rapid
> fixers (based on ammonium thiosulfate rather than sodium thiosulfate),
> which fix films in about two minutes. In fact, the fixers I use often
> clear films in 30 seconds or less. The general rule of thumb is to fix for
> twice the clearing times (some people say three times for T-grain films),
> but I err on the side of the longer time if I get, say, a 30-second fixing
> time and the product documentation recommends a 2-minute time.
>
> A 10-12 minute fixing time sounds very long to me, but you might well get
> into that range toward the end of the useful life of a fixer based on
> sodium thiosulfate.
I forgot to ask one question. What is the effect of fixing for too long?
Greg
Re: B&W film developing questions
On 1/7/2008 7:28 PM G.T. spake thus:
> I forgot to ask one question. What is the effect of fixing for too long?
Image degradation, and in extreme cases, silver reduction and image
"bleaching"--but you'd have to leave the film in for a very long time
for this to happen.
Don't sweat it.
On 1/7/2008 7:28 PM G.T. spake thus:
> I forgot to ask one question. What is the effect of fixing for too long?
Image degradation, and in extreme cases, silver reduction and image
"bleaching"--but you'd have to leave the film in for a very long time
for this to happen.
Don't sweat it.
Re: B&W film developing questions
"David Nebenzahl" <nobody@but.us.chickens> wrote in message
news:4782f423$0$16346$822641b3@news.adtechcomputers . com ...
> On 1/7/2008 7:28 PM G.T. spake thus:
>
>> I forgot to ask one question. What is the effect of fixing for too long?
>
> Image degradation, and in extreme cases, silver reduction and image
> "bleaching"--but you'd have to leave the film in for a very long time for
> this to happen.
>
> Don't sweat it.
And that period of time would be measured with a calendar rather than
aclock!
"David Nebenzahl" <nobody@but.us.chickens> wrote in message
news:4782f423$0$16346$822641b3@news.adtechcomputers . com ...
> On 1/7/2008 7:28 PM G.T. spake thus:
>
>> I forgot to ask one question. What is the effect of fixing for too long?
>
> Image degradation, and in extreme cases, silver reduction and image
> "bleaching"--but you'd have to leave the film in for a very long time for
> this to happen.
>
> Don't sweat it.
And that period of time would be measured with a calendar rather than
aclock!
Re: B&W film developing questions
"Ken Hart" <kwhart1@verizon . net > wrote in message
news:flv4uc$o33$1@aioe.org...
>
> "David Nebenzahl" <nobody@but.us.chickens> wrote in
> message
> news:4782f423$0$16346$822641b3@news.adtechcomputers . com ...
>> On 1/7/2008 7:28 PM G.T. spake thus:
>>
>>> I forgot to ask one question. What is the effect of
>>> fixing for too long?
>>
>> Image degradation, and in extreme cases, silver reduction
>> and image "bleaching"--but you'd have to leave the film
>> in for a very long time for this to happen.
>>
>> Don't sweat it.
>
> And that period of time would be measured with a calendar
> rather than aclock!
It depends on the fixer. Ammonium thiosulfate in acid is
capable of bleaching metallic silver in a relatively short
time. The problem exists mostly for the very fine grain
silver of printing paper rather than film but fixing times
should not be much extended beyond the time needed for
complete fixing. The bleaching effect is why rapid fixer is
diluted more for prints than film.
The bleaching takes place only when the fixer is acid,
neutral or alkaline rapid fixer does not bleach silver.
A good mild reducer for removing dichroic fog from film
can be made by adding about 15 grams per liter of citric
acid to standard film strength rapid fixer. Dichroic fog is
a deposit of very fine silver on the surface of the film.
Citric acid, in this application, is a sequestering
agent for the silver.
--
---
Richard Knoppow
Los Angeles, CA, USA
dickburk@ix . net com . com
"Ken Hart" <kwhart1@verizon . net > wrote in message
news:flv4uc$o33$1@aioe.org...
>
> "David Nebenzahl" <nobody@but.us.chickens> wrote in
> message
> news:4782f423$0$16346$822641b3@news.adtechcomputers . com ...
>> On 1/7/2008 7:28 PM G.T. spake thus:
>>
>>> I forgot to ask one question. What is the effect of
>>> fixing for too long?
>>
>> Image degradation, and in extreme cases, silver reduction
>> and image "bleaching"--but you'd have to leave the film
>> in for a very long time for this to happen.
>>
>> Don't sweat it.
>
> And that period of time would be measured with a calendar
> rather than aclock!
It depends on the fixer. Ammonium thiosulfate in acid is
capable of bleaching metallic silver in a relatively short
time. The problem exists mostly for the very fine grain
silver of printing paper rather than film but fixing times
should not be much extended beyond the time needed for
complete fixing. The bleaching effect is why rapid fixer is
diluted more for prints than film.
The bleaching takes place only when the fixer is acid,
neutral or alkaline rapid fixer does not bleach silver.
A good mild reducer for removing dichroic fog from film
can be made by adding about 15 grams per liter of citric
acid to standard film strength rapid fixer. Dichroic fog is
a deposit of very fine silver on the surface of the film.
Citric acid, in this application, is a sequestering
agent for the silver.
--
---
Richard Knoppow
Los Angeles, CA, USA
dickburk@ix . net com . com
Re: B&W film developing questions
"Richard Knoppow" <dickburk@ix . net com . com > wrote in message
news:13pmr0hb39kjtfa@corp.supernews . com ...
>
> "Ken Hart" <kwhart1@verizon . net > wrote in message
> news:flv4uc$o33$1@aioe.org...
>>
>> "David Nebenzahl" <nobody@but.us.chickens> wrote in message
>> news:4782f423$0$16346$822641b3@news.adtechcomputers . com ...
>>> On 1/7/2008 7:28 PM G.T. spake thus:
>>>
>>>> I forgot to ask one question. What is the effect of fixing for too
>>>> long?
>>>
>>> Image degradation, and in extreme cases, silver reduction and image
>>> "bleaching"--but you'd have to leave the film in for a very long time
>>> for this to happen.
>>>
>>> Don't sweat it.
>>
>> And that period of time would be measured with a calendar rather than
>> aclock!
> It depends on the fixer. Ammonium thiosulfate in acid is capable of
> bleaching metallic silver in a relatively short time. The problem exists
> mostly for the very fine grain silver of printing paper rather than film
> but fixing times should not be much extended beyond the time needed for
> complete fixing. The bleaching effect is why rapid fixer is diluted more
> for prints than film.
> The bleaching takes place only when the fixer is acid, neutral or
> alkaline rapid fixer does not bleach silver.
> A good mild reducer for removing dichroic fog from film can be made by
> adding about 15 grams per liter of citric acid to standard film strength
> rapid fixer. Dichroic fog is a deposit of very fine silver on the surface
> of the film.
> Citric acid, in this application, is a sequestering agent for the
> silver.
While not exactly on topic as per Richard's post, allow me to point out as
per the main topic of B&W film developing that one of the most important
items in the BW darkroom for both film developing and (especially) print
processing is a good audio system. A plain radio is fine, but a tape deck,
a CD player, and especially a MP3 player (with its long play ability) is to
be recommended. For me at least, such a device makes those long and already
enjoyable darkroom sessions that much more enjoyable.
"Richard Knoppow" <dickburk@ix . net com . com > wrote in message
news:13pmr0hb39kjtfa@corp.supernews . com ...
>
> "Ken Hart" <kwhart1@verizon . net > wrote in message
> news:flv4uc$o33$1@aioe.org...
>>
>> "David Nebenzahl" <nobody@but.us.chickens> wrote in message
>> news:4782f423$0$16346$822641b3@news.adtechcomputers . com ...
>>> On 1/7/2008 7:28 PM G.T. spake thus:
>>>
>>>> I forgot to ask one question. What is the effect of fixing for too
>>>> long?
>>>
>>> Image degradation, and in extreme cases, silver reduction and image
>>> "bleaching"--but you'd have to leave the film in for a very long time
>>> for this to happen.
>>>
>>> Don't sweat it.
>>
>> And that period of time would be measured with a calendar rather than
>> aclock!
> It depends on the fixer. Ammonium thiosulfate in acid is capable of
> bleaching metallic silver in a relatively short time. The problem exists
> mostly for the very fine grain silver of printing paper rather than film
> but fixing times should not be much extended beyond the time needed for
> complete fixing. The bleaching effect is why rapid fixer is diluted more
> for prints than film.
> The bleaching takes place only when the fixer is acid, neutral or
> alkaline rapid fixer does not bleach silver.
> A good mild reducer for removing dichroic fog from film can be made by
> adding about 15 grams per liter of citric acid to standard film strength
> rapid fixer. Dichroic fog is a deposit of very fine silver on the surface
> of the film.
> Citric acid, in this application, is a sequestering agent for the
> silver.
While not exactly on topic as per Richard's post, allow me to point out as
per the main topic of B&W film developing that one of the most important
items in the BW darkroom for both film developing and (especially) print
processing is a good audio system. A plain radio is fine, but a tape deck,
a CD player, and especially a MP3 player (with its long play ability) is to
be recommended. For me at least, such a device makes those long and already
enjoyable darkroom sessions that much more enjoyable.
Re: B&W film developing questions
Lawrence Akutagawa wrote:
>
>
> While not exactly on topic as per Richard's post, allow me to point out as
> per the main topic of B&W film developing that one of the most important
> items in the BW darkroom for both film developing and (especially) print
> processing is a good audio system. A plain radio is fine, but a tape deck,
> a CD player, and especially a MP3 player (with its long play ability) is to
> be recommended. For me at least, such a device makes those long and already
> enjoyable darkroom sessions that much more enjoyable.
Oh, my last instructor definitely impressed that upon me!
Greg
Lawrence Akutagawa wrote:
>
>
> While not exactly on topic as per Richard's post, allow me to point out as
> per the main topic of B&W film developing that one of the most important
> items in the BW darkroom for both film developing and (especially) print
> processing is a good audio system. A plain radio is fine, but a tape deck,
> a CD player, and especially a MP3 player (with its long play ability) is to
> be recommended. For me at least, such a device makes those long and already
> enjoyable darkroom sessions that much more enjoyable.
Oh, my last instructor definitely impressed that upon me!
Greg
Re: B&W film developing questions
Lawrence Akutagawa wrote:
> [...] one of the most important items in the BW darkroom for both film
> developing and (especially) print processing is a good audio system.
I have no audio equipment in the darkroom... except a metronome. :)
Lawrence Akutagawa wrote:
> [...] one of the most important items in the BW darkroom for both film
> developing and (especially) print processing is a good audio system.
I have no audio equipment in the darkroom... except a metronome. :)
Re: B&W film developing questions
On 1/26/2008 11:43 AM jjs spake thus:
> Lawrence Akutagawa wrote:
>
>> [...] one of the most important items in the BW darkroom for both film
>> developing and (especially) print processing is a good audio system.
>
> I have no audio equipment in the darkroom... except a metronome. :)
Same here, minus the metronome. I don't find music to be a compelling
need in the darkroom.
On 1/26/2008 11:43 AM jjs spake thus:
> Lawrence Akutagawa wrote:
>
>> [...] one of the most important items in the BW darkroom for both film
>> developing and (especially) print processing is a good audio system.
>
> I have no audio equipment in the darkroom... except a metronome. :)
Same here, minus the metronome. I don't find music to be a compelling
need in the darkroom.
Re: B&W film developing questions
"David Nebenzahl" <nobody@but.us.chickens> wrote in message
news:479b9578$0$3617$822641b3@news.adtechcomputers . com ...
> On 1/26/2008 11:43 AM jjs spake thus:
>
>> Lawrence Akutagawa wrote:
>>
>>> [...] one of the most important items in the BW darkroom
>>> for both film developing and (especially) print
>>> processing is a good audio system.
>>
>> I have no audio equipment in the darkroom... except a
>> metronome. :)
>
> Same here, minus the metronome. I don't find music to be a
> compelling need in the darkroom.
David, did you post a question to me about older Kodak
enlarging lenses? If so I can't find it again.
--
---
Richard Knoppow
Los Angeles, CA, USA
dickburk@ix . net com . com
"David Nebenzahl" <nobody@but.us.chickens> wrote in message
news:479b9578$0$3617$822641b3@news.adtechcomputers . com ...
> On 1/26/2008 11:43 AM jjs spake thus:
>
>> Lawrence Akutagawa wrote:
>>
>>> [...] one of the most important items in the BW darkroom
>>> for both film developing and (especially) print
>>> processing is a good audio system.
>>
>> I have no audio equipment in the darkroom... except a
>> metronome. :)
>
> Same here, minus the metronome. I don't find music to be a
> compelling need in the darkroom.
David, did you post a question to me about older Kodak
enlarging lenses? If so I can't find it again.
--
---
Richard Knoppow
Los Angeles, CA, USA
dickburk@ix . net com . com
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