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Aristo cold head
Aristo cold head
I know nothing about cold heads (except being bald in a Minnesota Winter).
Need something for the 8x10 Saltzman enlarger. On EvilBay there is an Aristo
T12.
Seller wants $575 BIN. Here is the ad copy:
"This is the top-of-the-line 8x10 enlarger light source. Aristo T12 High
Intensity Light Head is a two part unit -lamp housing and power pack- which
contains a three prong thermo cord which operates the thermostatically
controlled heater. This is plugged into any available 115V outlet. The lamp
housing is 11-7/8" x 11-7/8" x 6-3/4" high."
Is that everything I need for the light source? Is there a particular
"gotcha" to beware of?
I truly appreciate any help on this you all can offer.
John
I know nothing about cold heads (except being bald in a Minnesota Winter).
Need something for the 8x10 Saltzman enlarger. On EvilBay there is an Aristo
T12.
Seller wants $575 BIN. Here is the ad copy:
"This is the top-of-the-line 8x10 enlarger light source. Aristo T12 High
Intensity Light Head is a two part unit -lamp housing and power pack- which
contains a three prong thermo cord which operates the thermostatically
controlled heater. This is plugged into any available 115V outlet. The lamp
housing is 11-7/8" x 11-7/8" x 6-3/4" high."
Is that everything I need for the light source? Is there a particular
"gotcha" to beware of?
I truly appreciate any help on this you all can offer.
John
Re: Aristo cold head
"john" wrote:
> I know nothing about cold heads (except being bald in a Minnesota
> Winter).
>
> Need something for the 8x10 Saltzman enlarger. On EvilBay there
> is an Aristo T12.
>
> Seller wants $575 BIN. Here is the ad copy:
>
> "This is the top-of-the-line 8x10 enlarger light source. Aristo T12
> High Intensity Light Head is a two part unit -lamp housing and power
> pack- which contains a three prong thermo cord which operates the
> thermostatically controlled heater. This is plugged into any available
> 115V outlet. The lamp housing is 11-7/8" x 11-7/8" x 6-3/4" high."
>
> Is that everything I need for the light source? Is there a particular
> "gotcha" to beware of?
>
> I truly appreciate any help on this you all can offer.
Hi John,
I don't have any personal experience with an Aristo T12, but perhaps Aristo's
own product page for this unit will help you in determining if this unit is
right for you...
http :// www .aristogrid,com /t12.htm
Ken
"john" wrote:
> I know nothing about cold heads (except being bald in a Minnesota
> Winter).
>
> Need something for the 8x10 Saltzman enlarger. On EvilBay there
> is an Aristo T12.
>
> Seller wants $575 BIN. Here is the ad copy:
>
> "This is the top-of-the-line 8x10 enlarger light source. Aristo T12
> High Intensity Light Head is a two part unit -lamp housing and power
> pack- which contains a three prong thermo cord which operates the
> thermostatically controlled heater. This is plugged into any available
> 115V outlet. The lamp housing is 11-7/8" x 11-7/8" x 6-3/4" high."
>
> Is that everything I need for the light source? Is there a particular
> "gotcha" to beware of?
>
> I truly appreciate any help on this you all can offer.
Hi John,
I don't have any personal experience with an Aristo T12, but perhaps Aristo's
own product page for this unit will help you in determining if this unit is
right for you...
http :// www .aristogrid,com /t12.htm
Ken
Re: Aristo cold head
"Ken Nadvornick" <register.nadvor@verizon,net > wrote in message
news:LfudnbPhq7qd9bPVnZ2dnUVZ_uadnZ2d@comcast,com ...
> I don't have any personal experience with an Aristo T12, but perhaps
> Aristo's
> own product page for this unit will help you in determining if this unit
> is
> right for you...
>
> http :// www .aristogrid,com /t12.htm
OMG! I broke my own rule! I did not look it up. See, I thought it was an
obsolete part.
Thanks for the nudge, Ken!
John
"Ken Nadvornick" <register.nadvor@verizon,net > wrote in message
news:LfudnbPhq7qd9bPVnZ2dnUVZ_uadnZ2d@comcast,com ...
> I don't have any personal experience with an Aristo T12, but perhaps
> Aristo's
> own product page for this unit will help you in determining if this unit
> is
> right for you...
>
> http :// www .aristogrid,com /t12.htm
OMG! I broke my own rule! I did not look it up. See, I thought it was an
obsolete part.
Thanks for the nudge, Ken!
John
Re: Aristo cold head
"john" <x@x,net > wrote
> On EvilBay there is an Aristo T12. .... Is there a particular "gotcha" to
> beware of?
You may need to stick to graded paper - it looks like the
original 'actinic' tube. I had a head with this tube on
a D-series Omega and it only wanted to produce grade 4+
VC prints. Some people say they can get by throwing
a lot of yellow filtration into the system.
--
Nicholas O. Lindan, Cleveland, Ohio
Darkroom Automation: F-Stop Timers, Enlarging Meters
http :// www .darkroomautomation,com /index2.htm
n o lindan at ix dot netcom dot com
"john" <x@x,net > wrote
> On EvilBay there is an Aristo T12. .... Is there a particular "gotcha" to
> beware of?
You may need to stick to graded paper - it looks like the
original 'actinic' tube. I had a head with this tube on
a D-series Omega and it only wanted to produce grade 4+
VC prints. Some people say they can get by throwing
a lot of yellow filtration into the system.
--
Nicholas O. Lindan, Cleveland, Ohio
Darkroom Automation: F-Stop Timers, Enlarging Meters
http :// www .darkroomautomation,com /index2.htm
n o lindan at ix dot netcom dot com
Re: Aristo cold head
Nicholas O. Lindan wrote:
> "john" <x@x,net > wrote
>
>> On EvilBay there is an Aristo T12. .... Is there a particular "gotcha" to
>> beware of?
>
> You may need to stick to graded paper - it looks like the
> original 'actinic' tube. I had a head with this tube on
> a D-series Omega and it only wanted to produce grade 4+
> VC prints. Some people say they can get by throwing
> a lot of yellow filtration into the system.
>
Aristo make a lot of different color tubes in their heads, each with a
different characteristic curve. Some will work pretty well with about Y40 or
so yellow filter in addition to your regular vc filters. Others will not.
You might find the following curves helpful:
http :// www .aristogrid,com /spd.htm
They also make heads with a blue and a green tube so you can use VC paper
more easily. I have an Aristo head (D2HI) that came with either a W45 or a
V54 tube in it and that worked OK with a yellow filter, although I used
graded paper at the time, so it did not matter much to me.
--
.~. Jean-David Beyer Registered Linux User 85642.
/V\ PGP-Key: 9A2FC99A Registered Machine 241939.
/( )\ Shrewsbury, New Jersey http :// counter.li.org
^^-^^ 08:15:01 up 10 days, 47 min, 3 users, load average: 4.02, 4.06, 4.09
Nicholas O. Lindan wrote:
> "john" <x@x,net > wrote
>
>> On EvilBay there is an Aristo T12. .... Is there a particular "gotcha" to
>> beware of?
>
> You may need to stick to graded paper - it looks like the
> original 'actinic' tube. I had a head with this tube on
> a D-series Omega and it only wanted to produce grade 4+
> VC prints. Some people say they can get by throwing
> a lot of yellow filtration into the system.
>
Aristo make a lot of different color tubes in their heads, each with a
different characteristic curve. Some will work pretty well with about Y40 or
so yellow filter in addition to your regular vc filters. Others will not.
You might find the following curves helpful:
http :// www .aristogrid,com /spd.htm
They also make heads with a blue and a green tube so you can use VC paper
more easily. I have an Aristo head (D2HI) that came with either a W45 or a
V54 tube in it and that worked OK with a yellow filter, although I used
graded paper at the time, so it did not matter much to me.
--
.~. Jean-David Beyer Registered Linux User 85642.
/V\ PGP-Key: 9A2FC99A Registered Machine 241939.
/( )\ Shrewsbury, New Jersey http :// counter.li.org
^^-^^ 08:15:01 up 10 days, 47 min, 3 users, load average: 4.02, 4.06, 4.09
Re: Aristo cold head
"Nicholas O. Lindan" <see@sig,com > wrote in message
news:7cSdnZMH_uCjVrPVnZ2dnUVZ_vKdnZ2d@earthlink,com ...
> "john" <x@x,net > wrote
>
>> On EvilBay there is an Aristo T12. .... Is there a particular "gotcha" to
>> beware of?
>
> You may need to stick to graded paper - it looks like the
> original 'actinic' tube. I had a head with this tube on
> a D-series Omega and it only wanted to produce grade 4+
> VC prints. Some people say they can get by throwing
> a lot of yellow filtration into the system.
That is a critical issue. Thank you! Aristo also has a device to allow the
use of digital timers. Is it necessary with the F-Stop timer?
"Nicholas O. Lindan" <see@sig,com > wrote in message
news:7cSdnZMH_uCjVrPVnZ2dnUVZ_vKdnZ2d@earthlink,com ...
> "john" <x@x,net > wrote
>
>> On EvilBay there is an Aristo T12. .... Is there a particular "gotcha" to
>> beware of?
>
> You may need to stick to graded paper - it looks like the
> original 'actinic' tube. I had a head with this tube on
> a D-series Omega and it only wanted to produce grade 4+
> VC prints. Some people say they can get by throwing
> a lot of yellow filtration into the system.
That is a critical issue. Thank you! Aristo also has a device to allow the
use of digital timers. Is it necessary with the F-Stop timer?
Re: Aristo cold head
"john" <x@x,net > wrote
> Aristo also has a device to allow the use of digital timers [with a T-12].
> Is it necessary with the F-Stop timer?
It shouldn't be.
There are two technologies timers use to control
the lamp: electro-mechanical relays and solid-state
silicon controlled rectifiers (SCRs).
Some electronic timers with relays get upset by the
electrical interference generated when the contacts
open with an inductive load. Current through an
inductor wants to keep flowing and can't be stopped
instantly. When relay contacts open the current
creates a small arc across the contacts. A 'snubber
circuit' across the contacts provides a path for this
current and limits the arc. The f-Stop Timer uses
a snubbed relay rated at 12 amps.
Since SCRs only turn off when the current goes
to zero they have no trouble turning off inductive
loads. OTOH, they can have problems with incandescent
lamps. When a light bulb fails it often creates
a dead short - the bright flash/pop - and the current
through the short can destroy an SCR that is not
adequately protected. They are also prey to
high-voltage surges on the power lines. Snubber
circuits are used with SCR's, but this time to
absorb power line spikes when the SCR is off.
Timers that are properly designed and used will
work without problems using either relays or
SCRs.
High-power loads connected to a timer can require
an external contactor to handle the current. Regular
Aristo 4x5 heads are no problem for most any timer,
including the Darkroom Automation f-Stop Timer.
I don't know the inductive characteristics of the T-12
and don't have any experience with this unit. My guess
is it will work, but there is a chance the external
'solid state contactor' may be needed. In any case,
plugging the head in and seeing if it works will cause
no damage to the timer.
--
Nicholas O. Lindan, Cleveland, Ohio
Darkroom Automation: F-Stop Timers, Enlarging Meters
http :// www .darkroomautomation,com /index2.htm
n o lindan at ix dot netcom dot com
"john" <x@x,net > wrote
> Aristo also has a device to allow the use of digital timers [with a T-12].
> Is it necessary with the F-Stop timer?
It shouldn't be.
There are two technologies timers use to control
the lamp: electro-mechanical relays and solid-state
silicon controlled rectifiers (SCRs).
Some electronic timers with relays get upset by the
electrical interference generated when the contacts
open with an inductive load. Current through an
inductor wants to keep flowing and can't be stopped
instantly. When relay contacts open the current
creates a small arc across the contacts. A 'snubber
circuit' across the contacts provides a path for this
current and limits the arc. The f-Stop Timer uses
a snubbed relay rated at 12 amps.
Since SCRs only turn off when the current goes
to zero they have no trouble turning off inductive
loads. OTOH, they can have problems with incandescent
lamps. When a light bulb fails it often creates
a dead short - the bright flash/pop - and the current
through the short can destroy an SCR that is not
adequately protected. They are also prey to
high-voltage surges on the power lines. Snubber
circuits are used with SCR's, but this time to
absorb power line spikes when the SCR is off.
Timers that are properly designed and used will
work without problems using either relays or
SCRs.
High-power loads connected to a timer can require
an external contactor to handle the current. Regular
Aristo 4x5 heads are no problem for most any timer,
including the Darkroom Automation f-Stop Timer.
I don't know the inductive characteristics of the T-12
and don't have any experience with this unit. My guess
is it will work, but there is a chance the external
'solid state contactor' may be needed. In any case,
plugging the head in and seeing if it works will cause
no damage to the timer.
--
Nicholas O. Lindan, Cleveland, Ohio
Darkroom Automation: F-Stop Timers, Enlarging Meters
http :// www .darkroomautomation,com /index2.htm
n o lindan at ix dot netcom dot com
Re: Aristo cold head
"Nicholas O. Lindan" <see@sig,com > wrote in message
news:jMidneg8V4LlRrPVnZ2dnUVZ_rninZ2d@earthlink,com ...
> "john" <x@x,net > wrote
>
>> Aristo also has a device to allow the use of digital timers [with a
>> T-12]. Is it necessary with the F-Stop timer?
> [... snip good article ...]
> I don't know the inductive characteristics of the T-12
> and don't have any experience with this unit. My guess
> is it will work, but there is a chance the external
> 'solid state contactor' may be needed. In any case,
> plugging the head in and seeing if it works will cause
> no damage to the timer.
Very good to know. Thank you.
So now I know the light source is clearly feasible. I just have to rip this
check out of my tight fist and do it.
"Nicholas O. Lindan" <see@sig,com > wrote in message
news:jMidneg8V4LlRrPVnZ2dnUVZ_rninZ2d@earthlink,com ...
> "john" <x@x,net > wrote
>
>> Aristo also has a device to allow the use of digital timers [with a
>> T-12]. Is it necessary with the F-Stop timer?
> [... snip good article ...]
> I don't know the inductive characteristics of the T-12
> and don't have any experience with this unit. My guess
> is it will work, but there is a chance the external
> 'solid state contactor' may be needed. In any case,
> plugging the head in and seeing if it works will cause
> no damage to the timer.
Very good to know. Thank you.
So now I know the light source is clearly feasible. I just have to rip this
check out of my tight fist and do it.
Re: Aristo cold head
Nicholas O. Lindan wrote:
> "john" <x@x,net > wrote
>
>> Aristo also has a device to allow the use of digital timers [with a
>> T-12]. Is it necessary with the F-Stop timer?
>
> It shouldn't be.
>
[snip]
> I don't know the inductive characteristics of the T-12 and don't have any
> experience with this unit. My guess is it will work, but there is a
> chance the external 'solid state contactor' may be needed. In any case,
> plugging the head in and seeing if it works will cause no damage to the
> timer.
>
I do not know the inductive characteristics of cold light heads either.
If the load on the step up transformer were resistive, the load would be
reflected back through the transformer and place a resistive load on the
timer and the power company. Now a gas discharge tube is not resistive, but
it probably has a resistor in series with it to reduce the peak current
through the tube, so it may be more resistive than the tube itself.
--
.~. Jean-David Beyer Registered Linux User 85642.
/V\ PGP-Key: 9A2FC99A Registered Machine 241939.
/( )\ Shrewsbury, New Jersey http :// counter.li.org
^^-^^ 20:50:01 up 10 days, 13:22, 3 users, load average: 4.61, 4.50, 4.33
Nicholas O. Lindan wrote:
> "john" <x@x,net > wrote
>
>> Aristo also has a device to allow the use of digital timers [with a
>> T-12]. Is it necessary with the F-Stop timer?
>
> It shouldn't be.
>
[snip]
> I don't know the inductive characteristics of the T-12 and don't have any
> experience with this unit. My guess is it will work, but there is a
> chance the external 'solid state contactor' may be needed. In any case,
> plugging the head in and seeing if it works will cause no damage to the
> timer.
>
I do not know the inductive characteristics of cold light heads either.
If the load on the step up transformer were resistive, the load would be
reflected back through the transformer and place a resistive load on the
timer and the power company. Now a gas discharge tube is not resistive, but
it probably has a resistor in series with it to reduce the peak current
through the tube, so it may be more resistive than the tube itself.
--
.~. Jean-David Beyer Registered Linux User 85642.
/V\ PGP-Key: 9A2FC99A Registered Machine 241939.
/( )\ Shrewsbury, New Jersey http :// counter.li.org
^^-^^ 20:50:01 up 10 days, 13:22, 3 users, load average: 4.61, 4.50, 4.33
Re: Aristo cold head
"Jean-David Beyer" <jeandavid8@verizon,net > wrote
> Now a gas discharge tube is not resistive
A gas discharge tube has a negative resistance: If you increase
the current it will lower the tube voltage. Modeling the lamp
as a constant voltage, though, is good enough for most circuit
analysis - the result is like driving current backwards through
a battery, the voltage on the 'battery' is the arc voltage.
In this model the lamp has zero resistance.
Since the lamp is pretty much a short circuit - zero resistance
- there needs to be a 'ballast' in series with the lamp. The
ballast can be a resistor, capacitor or inductor. The ballast
impedance (the general term for something that opposes current)
controls the lamp current.
In almost all equipment the ballast is either inductive or
capacitive - called a reactive ballast. Resistor ballasts are
sometimes found in very old equipment.
A reactive ballast will draw current 90 degrees out of phase
with the power line. The power that it blocks is stored in
either a magnetic field (inductor) or an electric field (capacitor)
and given back to the power line in the next half cycle (a sloppy
explanation, but probably good enough). A resistive ballast
dissipates the power as heat and the power is gone forever.
The reactive ballast causes the system to draw extra current,
though not power. This upsets the power company, means larger
wiring and transformers are needed and raises the electric bill
if your meter charges you for VARs. Large lamp power supplies
include power-factor correction by adding compensating inductance
to a capacitive ballast power supply or compensating capacitance to
an inductive ballast power supply. This makes the lamp system
draw the least amount of current and look like a resistor to the
power line. http :// en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Power_factor
Putting a capacitor of the right value at the input to an Aristo
lamp will make the system look like a regular old light bulb and
there will be no inductive kick when it is turned off. However,
because of the capacitor there will now be a current surge when the
lamp is turned on. "Pay now or pay later."
These problems can be eliminated by connecting the power when the
AC voltage is zero and disconnecting the power when the AC current
is zero. This is what Aristo's 'solid state contactor' achieves.
--
Nicholas O. Lindan, Cleveland, Ohio
Darkroom Automation: F-Stop Timers, Enlarging Meters
http :// www .darkroomautomation,com /index2.htm
n o lindan at ix dot netcom dot com
"Jean-David Beyer" <jeandavid8@verizon,net > wrote
> Now a gas discharge tube is not resistive
A gas discharge tube has a negative resistance: If you increase
the current it will lower the tube voltage. Modeling the lamp
as a constant voltage, though, is good enough for most circuit
analysis - the result is like driving current backwards through
a battery, the voltage on the 'battery' is the arc voltage.
In this model the lamp has zero resistance.
Since the lamp is pretty much a short circuit - zero resistance
- there needs to be a 'ballast' in series with the lamp. The
ballast can be a resistor, capacitor or inductor. The ballast
impedance (the general term for something that opposes current)
controls the lamp current.
In almost all equipment the ballast is either inductive or
capacitive - called a reactive ballast. Resistor ballasts are
sometimes found in very old equipment.
A reactive ballast will draw current 90 degrees out of phase
with the power line. The power that it blocks is stored in
either a magnetic field (inductor) or an electric field (capacitor)
and given back to the power line in the next half cycle (a sloppy
explanation, but probably good enough). A resistive ballast
dissipates the power as heat and the power is gone forever.
The reactive ballast causes the system to draw extra current,
though not power. This upsets the power company, means larger
wiring and transformers are needed and raises the electric bill
if your meter charges you for VARs. Large lamp power supplies
include power-factor correction by adding compensating inductance
to a capacitive ballast power supply or compensating capacitance to
an inductive ballast power supply. This makes the lamp system
draw the least amount of current and look like a resistor to the
power line. http :// en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Power_factor
Putting a capacitor of the right value at the input to an Aristo
lamp will make the system look like a regular old light bulb and
there will be no inductive kick when it is turned off. However,
because of the capacitor there will now be a current surge when the
lamp is turned on. "Pay now or pay later."
These problems can be eliminated by connecting the power when the
AC voltage is zero and disconnecting the power when the AC current
is zero. This is what Aristo's 'solid state contactor' achieves.
--
Nicholas O. Lindan, Cleveland, Ohio
Darkroom Automation: F-Stop Timers, Enlarging Meters
http :// www .darkroomautomation,com /index2.htm
n o lindan at ix dot netcom dot com
Re: Aristo cold head
"john" <x@x,net > wrote in message
news:xIGdnR2rW_DX3bPVnZ2dnUVZ_gidnZ2d@supernews,com ...
>I know nothing about cold heads (except being bald in a
>Minnesota Winter).
>
> Need something for the 8x10 Saltzman enlarger. On EvilBay
> there is an Aristo T12.
>
> Seller wants $575 BIN. Here is the ad copy:
>
> "This is the top-of-the-line 8x10 enlarger light source.
> Aristo T12 High Intensity Light Head is a two part
> unit -lamp housing and power pack- which contains a three
> prong thermo cord which operates the thermostatically
> controlled heater. This is plugged into any available 115V
> outlet. The lamp housing is 11-7/8" x 11-7/8" x 6-3/4"
> high."
>
> Is that everything I need for the light source? Is there a
> particular "gotcha" to beware of?
>
> I truly appreciate any help on this you all can offer.
>
> John
>
Others have answered your questions but contratulations
on having this monster, an absolutely superb chunk of
machinery.
If you have the original shutter it will work well with
the cold light head, they want to run continuously. The
Arista has a heater in it to make the output more uniform
when its used intermittantly but all gaseous discharge lamps
increase output as they get hotter and most like to work on
a continuous basis. The Saltzman shutter was made to work
with the original mercury vapour lamp house which _had_ to
run continuously. Saltzman had other lamphouses available
but the Cooper-Hewitt tube type was the most common.
Arista makes lamps which are compatible with variable
contrast paper and can be refitted to older lamphouses.
Does your Saltzman have one or two support rods for the
bellows?
--
---
Richard Knoppow
Los Angeles, CA, USA
dickburk@ix,net com,com
"john" <x@x,net > wrote in message
news:xIGdnR2rW_DX3bPVnZ2dnUVZ_gidnZ2d@supernews,com ...
>I know nothing about cold heads (except being bald in a
>Minnesota Winter).
>
> Need something for the 8x10 Saltzman enlarger. On EvilBay
> there is an Aristo T12.
>
> Seller wants $575 BIN. Here is the ad copy:
>
> "This is the top-of-the-line 8x10 enlarger light source.
> Aristo T12 High Intensity Light Head is a two part
> unit -lamp housing and power pack- which contains a three
> prong thermo cord which operates the thermostatically
> controlled heater. This is plugged into any available 115V
> outlet. The lamp housing is 11-7/8" x 11-7/8" x 6-3/4"
> high."
>
> Is that everything I need for the light source? Is there a
> particular "gotcha" to beware of?
>
> I truly appreciate any help on this you all can offer.
>
> John
>
Others have answered your questions but contratulations
on having this monster, an absolutely superb chunk of
machinery.
If you have the original shutter it will work well with
the cold light head, they want to run continuously. The
Arista has a heater in it to make the output more uniform
when its used intermittantly but all gaseous discharge lamps
increase output as they get hotter and most like to work on
a continuous basis. The Saltzman shutter was made to work
with the original mercury vapour lamp house which _had_ to
run continuously. Saltzman had other lamphouses available
but the Cooper-Hewitt tube type was the most common.
Arista makes lamps which are compatible with variable
contrast paper and can be refitted to older lamphouses.
Does your Saltzman have one or two support rods for the
bellows?
--
---
Richard Knoppow
Los Angeles, CA, USA
dickburk@ix,net com,com
Re: Aristo cold head
"Richard Knoppow" <dickburk@ix,net com,com > wrote in message
news:QZednSpnZedZzLLVnZ2dnUVZ_uydnZ2d@earthlink,com ...
(re: saltsman enlarger, Aristo T12 cold head)
> If you have the original shutter it will work well with the cold light
> head, they want to run continuously. [... snip excellent information]
No shutter came with it, but I have a 110V shutter from old long-roll school
camera that will fit in front of either lens.
> Does your Saltzman have one or two support rods for the bellows?
It has two, Richard, with the worm-drive rod between them, driven by a
sintered bronze gear. I can make pictures to put online if you wish.
John
"Richard Knoppow" <dickburk@ix,net com,com > wrote in message
news:QZednSpnZedZzLLVnZ2dnUVZ_uydnZ2d@earthlink,com ...
(re: saltsman enlarger, Aristo T12 cold head)
> If you have the original shutter it will work well with the cold light
> head, they want to run continuously. [... snip excellent information]
No shutter came with it, but I have a 110V shutter from old long-roll school
camera that will fit in front of either lens.
> Does your Saltzman have one or two support rods for the bellows?
It has two, Richard, with the worm-drive rod between them, driven by a
sintered bronze gear. I can make pictures to put online if you wish.
John
Re: Aristo cold head
"john" <x@x,net > wrote in message
news:U8OdnetLucVOwbLVnZ2dnUVZ_hzinZ2d@supernews,com ...
> "Richard Knoppow" <dickburk@ix,net com,com > wrote in
> message
> news:QZednSpnZedZzLLVnZ2dnUVZ_uydnZ2d@earthlink,com ...
> (re: saltsman enlarger, Aristo T12 cold head)
>
>> If you have the original shutter it will work well
>> with the cold light head, they want to run continuously.
>> [... snip excellent information]
>
> No shutter came with it, but I have a 110V shutter from
> old long-roll school camera that will fit in front of
> either lens.
>
>> Does your Saltzman have one or two support rods for
>> the bellows?
>
> It has two, Richard, with the worm-drive rod between them,
> driven by a sintered bronze gear. I can make pictures to
> put online if you wish.
>
> John
>
You have the more elabrorate version of the enlarger.
The cheaper (but not cheap) one had the single support rod.
This type was also used for aerial mapping and similar
applicatons. It should have a focusing wheel to drive the
bellows. Some of the larger models also had a small
handwheel to operate the stop ring on the lens.
Photographs would be interesting, I suspect many have
never seen a Saltzman. I have an ancient Saltzman catalogue
somewhere. I really must search it out.
--
---
Richard Knoppow
Los Angeles, CA, USA
dickburk@ix,net com,com
"john" <x@x,net > wrote in message
news:U8OdnetLucVOwbLVnZ2dnUVZ_hzinZ2d@supernews,com ...
> "Richard Knoppow" <dickburk@ix,net com,com > wrote in
> message
> news:QZednSpnZedZzLLVnZ2dnUVZ_uydnZ2d@earthlink,com ...
> (re: saltsman enlarger, Aristo T12 cold head)
>
>> If you have the original shutter it will work well
>> with the cold light head, they want to run continuously.
>> [... snip excellent information]
>
> No shutter came with it, but I have a 110V shutter from
> old long-roll school camera that will fit in front of
> either lens.
>
>> Does your Saltzman have one or two support rods for
>> the bellows?
>
> It has two, Richard, with the worm-drive rod between them,
> driven by a sintered bronze gear. I can make pictures to
> put online if you wish.
>
> John
>
You have the more elabrorate version of the enlarger.
The cheaper (but not cheap) one had the single support rod.
This type was also used for aerial mapping and similar
applicatons. It should have a focusing wheel to drive the
bellows. Some of the larger models also had a small
handwheel to operate the stop ring on the lens.
Photographs would be interesting, I suspect many have
never seen a Saltzman. I have an ancient Saltzman catalogue
somewhere. I really must search it out.
--
---
Richard Knoppow
Los Angeles, CA, USA
dickburk@ix,net com,com
Re: Aristo cold head
"Richard Knoppow" <dickburk@ix,net com,com > wrote in message
news:TvSdnUOTMvKio63VnZ2dnUVZ_jednZ2d@earthlink,com ...
>
> "john" <x@x,net > wrote in message
>>> Does your Saltzman have one or two support rods for the bellows?
>>
>> It has two, Richard, with the worm-drive rod between them, driven by a
>> sintered bronze gear. I can make pictures to put online if you wish.
>>
>> John
>>
> You have the more elabrorate version of the enlarger. The cheaper (but
> not cheap) one had the single support rod. This type was also used for
> aerial mapping and similar applicatons. It should have a focusing wheel to
> drive the bellows. Some of the larger models also had a small handwheel to
> operate the stop ring on the lens.
This one has two hand-wheels below the baseboard. One raises and lowers the
head assembly using two chains that run up and down the inside of the main
column, and the other wheel moves the bellows (focus). It has another pair
of smaller hand-wheels on the horizontal supports (of the triangulated head
support) to move the head to and fro. Today I am measuring those parts to
see if I can add a belt or lightweight chain drive from one of the smaller
wheels to drive the other: this would allow the operator to move to-fro
using one wheel and obviate having the enlarger sit 30 inches from the wall.
(Or a person could just disengage the worm-screw and push/pull by hand.)
I would very much like to work out a remove F-stop control. Will think about
it.
There are mounts for other things such as the red filter rod which are empty
right now. And an odd part that I cannot figure out. If I can get a digital
snapshooter I will make some pictures and post the address.
"Richard Knoppow" <dickburk@ix,net com,com > wrote in message
news:TvSdnUOTMvKio63VnZ2dnUVZ_jednZ2d@earthlink,com ...
>
> "john" <x@x,net > wrote in message
>>> Does your Saltzman have one or two support rods for the bellows?
>>
>> It has two, Richard, with the worm-drive rod between them, driven by a
>> sintered bronze gear. I can make pictures to put online if you wish.
>>
>> John
>>
> You have the more elabrorate version of the enlarger. The cheaper (but
> not cheap) one had the single support rod. This type was also used for
> aerial mapping and similar applicatons. It should have a focusing wheel to
> drive the bellows. Some of the larger models also had a small handwheel to
> operate the stop ring on the lens.
This one has two hand-wheels below the baseboard. One raises and lowers the
head assembly using two chains that run up and down the inside of the main
column, and the other wheel moves the bellows (focus). It has another pair
of smaller hand-wheels on the horizontal supports (of the triangulated head
support) to move the head to and fro. Today I am measuring those parts to
see if I can add a belt or lightweight chain drive from one of the smaller
wheels to drive the other: this would allow the operator to move to-fro
using one wheel and obviate having the enlarger sit 30 inches from the wall.
(Or a person could just disengage the worm-screw and push/pull by hand.)
I would very much like to work out a remove F-stop control. Will think about
it.
There are mounts for other things such as the red filter rod which are empty
right now. And an odd part that I cannot figure out. If I can get a digital
snapshooter I will make some pictures and post the address.
Re: Aristo cold head
"john" <x@x,net > wrote in message
news:Cfudnc2aaowD3K3VnZ2dnUVZ_gqdnZ2d@supernews,com ...
>
> "Richard Knoppow" <dickburk@ix,net com,com > wrote in
> message
> news:TvSdnUOTMvKio63VnZ2dnUVZ_jednZ2d@earthlink,com ...
>>
>> "john" <x@x,net > wrote in message
>>>> Does your Saltzman have one or two support rods for
>>>> the bellows?
>>>
>>> It has two, Richard, with the worm-drive rod between
>>> them, driven by a sintered bronze gear. I can make
>>> pictures to put online if you wish.
>>>
>>> John
>>>
>> You have the more elabrorate version of the enlarger.
>> The cheaper (but not cheap) one had the single support
>> rod. This type was also used for aerial mapping and
>> similar applicatons. It should have a focusing wheel to
>> drive the bellows. Some of the larger models also had a
>> small handwheel to operate the stop ring on the lens.
>
> This one has two hand-wheels below the baseboard. One
> raises and lowers the head assembly using two chains that
> run up and down the inside of the main column, and the
> other wheel moves the bellows (focus). It has another
> pair of smaller hand-wheels on the horizontal supports (of
> the triangulated head support) to move the head to and
> fro. Today I am measuring those parts to see if I can add
> a belt or lightweight chain drive from one of the smaller
> wheels to drive the other: this would allow the operator
> to move to-fro using one wheel and obviate having the
> enlarger sit 30 inches from the wall. (Or a person could
> just disengage the worm-screw and push/pull by hand.)
>
> I would very much like to work out a remove F-stop
> control. Will think about it.
>
> There are mounts for other things such as the red filter
> rod which are empty right now. And an odd part that I
> cannot figure out. If I can get a digital snapshooter I
> will make some pictures and post the address.
>
The filter rod was also used to hold the shutter. The
original was a two blade arrangement similar to a Packard
shutter worked by a foot pedal. Not all had the iris control
and I don't know the details of how it was coupled.
One option was a condenser lamphouse with about 14"
condensers and a mirror arrangment for the lamp. These had a
focusing control for the lamp on the housing and its
possible some had a remote handwheel for this also. I wish I
could find my catalogue but it got boxed up. Time for some
garage cleaning I'm afraid.
You probably need a five foot ladder to go along with
the enlarger.
Saltzman also made a very heavy, geared, tilting
baseboard for perspective correction. I've only seen
pictures of these.
--
---
Richard Knoppow
Los Angeles, CA, USA
dickburk@ix,net com,com
"john" <x@x,net > wrote in message
news:Cfudnc2aaowD3K3VnZ2dnUVZ_gqdnZ2d@supernews,com ...
>
> "Richard Knoppow" <dickburk@ix,net com,com > wrote in
> message
> news:TvSdnUOTMvKio63VnZ2dnUVZ_jednZ2d@earthlink,com ...
>>
>> "john" <x@x,net > wrote in message
>>>> Does your Saltzman have one or two support rods for
>>>> the bellows?
>>>
>>> It has two, Richard, with the worm-drive rod between
>>> them, driven by a sintered bronze gear. I can make
>>> pictures to put online if you wish.
>>>
>>> John
>>>
>> You have the more elabrorate version of the enlarger.
>> The cheaper (but not cheap) one had the single support
>> rod. This type was also used for aerial mapping and
>> similar applicatons. It should have a focusing wheel to
>> drive the bellows. Some of the larger models also had a
>> small handwheel to operate the stop ring on the lens.
>
> This one has two hand-wheels below the baseboard. One
> raises and lowers the head assembly using two chains that
> run up and down the inside of the main column, and the
> other wheel moves the bellows (focus). It has another
> pair of smaller hand-wheels on the horizontal supports (of
> the triangulated head support) to move the head to and
> fro. Today I am measuring those parts to see if I can add
> a belt or lightweight chain drive from one of the smaller
> wheels to drive the other: this would allow the operator
> to move to-fro using one wheel and obviate having the
> enlarger sit 30 inches from the wall. (Or a person could
> just disengage the worm-screw and push/pull by hand.)
>
> I would very much like to work out a remove F-stop
> control. Will think about it.
>
> There are mounts for other things such as the red filter
> rod which are empty right now. And an odd part that I
> cannot figure out. If I can get a digital snapshooter I
> will make some pictures and post the address.
>
The filter rod was also used to hold the shutter. The
original was a two blade arrangement similar to a Packard
shutter worked by a foot pedal. Not all had the iris control
and I don't know the details of how it was coupled.
One option was a condenser lamphouse with about 14"
condensers and a mirror arrangment for the lamp. These had a
focusing control for the lamp on the housing and its
possible some had a remote handwheel for this also. I wish I
could find my catalogue but it got boxed up. Time for some
garage cleaning I'm afraid.
You probably need a five foot ladder to go along with
the enlarger.
Saltzman also made a very heavy, geared, tilting
baseboard for perspective correction. I've only seen
pictures of these.
--
---
Richard Knoppow
Los Angeles, CA, USA
dickburk@ix,net com,com
