RVP 100 a bit too blue?

RVP 100 a bit too blue?


http :// www .aliasimages,com /images/NaturalBridgesNP Sipapu BridgeSML.jpg

(Nikon 9000 scanner, RVP 100 (Fuji Velvia 100, non F) 6x6, CZ 80 f/2.8,
no polarizer, about 1/60 f/16).

Is that blue a bit over or what? No pol.

Cheers,
Alan


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Re: RVP 100 a bit too blue?


"Alan Browne" wrote:
>
> http :// www .aliasimages,com /images/NaturalBridgesNP_Sipapu_BridgeSML.jpg
>
> (Nikon 9000 scanner, RVP 100 (Fuji Velvia 100, non F) 6x6, CZ 80 f/2.8, no
> polarizer, about 1/60 f/16).
>
> Is that blue a bit over or what? No pol.

That's why people shoot Velvia. (It'd be less blatant with 1/2 (or even 1)
stop more exposure.)

Spot meter the sky away from the horizon, and shoot a series bracked in 1/2
stops from -1 to + 2 EV. You'll get seven different shades of blue. Repeat
for every film you'll be using.

David J. Littleboy
davidjl@gol,com
Tokyo, Japan

Re: RVP 100 a bit too blue?

David J. Littleboy wrote:
> "Alan Browne" wrote:
>
>> http :// www .aliasimages,com /images/NaturalBridgesNP Sipapu BridgeSML.jpg
>>
>>(Nikon 9000 scanner, RVP 100 (Fuji Velvia 100, non F) 6x6, CZ 80 f/2.8, no
>>polarizer, about 1/60 f/16).
>>
>>Is that blue a bit over or what? No pol.
>
>
> That's why people shoot Velvia. (It'd be less blatant with 1/2 (or even 1)
> stop more exposure.)
>
> Spot meter the sky away from the horizon, and shoot a series bracked in 1/2
> stops from -1 to + 2 EV. You'll get seven different shades of blue. Repeat
> for every film you'll be using.

No thanks! I sometimes bracket if I'm uncertain, but for slide it would
be at most 1/2 stops either way.

I just found the blue to much more saturated than expected. It
certainly is so v. the E100VS I shot during the same trip.


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Re: RVP 100 a bit too blue?


"Alan Browne" <alan.browne@FreelunchVideotron.ca> wrote:
> David J. Littleboy wrote:
>> "Alan Browne" wrote:
>>
>>> http :// www .aliasimages,com /images/NaturalBridgesNP_Sipapu_BridgeSML.jpg
>>>
>>>(Nikon 9000 scanner, RVP 100 (Fuji Velvia 100, non F) 6x6, CZ 80 f/2.8,
>>>no polarizer, about 1/60 f/16).
>>>
>>>Is that blue a bit over or what? No pol.
>>
>>
>> That's why people shoot Velvia. (It'd be less blatant with 1/2 (or even
>> 1) stop more exposure.)
>>
>> Spot meter the sky away from the horizon, and shoot a series bracked in
>> 1/2 stops from -1 to + 2 EV. You'll get seven different shades of blue.
>> Repeat for every film you'll be using.
>
> No thanks! I sometimes bracket if I'm uncertain, but for slide it would
> be at most 1/2 stops either way.

I think you misunderstand. The idea is to do this but once. Then (knowing
how the film in your camera renders sky at various placements), when you
look at a scene, you decide how you want the sky to look, spotmeter it, set
the exposure compensation determined in the test, and get the sky you want
every time. (Or at least know what the sky is going to look like when you
set the exposure for the subject. No surprises is nice, but requires
testing.)

> I just found the blue to much more saturated than expected. It certainly
> is so v. the E100VS I shot during the same trip.

Like I said: that's why people shoot Velvia. It ain't for everyone. (I spent
a year shooting Velvia 100F and went back to Provia 100F; Velvia is just too
fussy about exposure, too contrasty, too blocked up in the highlights (which
is why people use polarizers; they get sick of having holes burned in their
film by specular reflections from leaves).) I still think that shot is at
least 1/2 stop underexposed. (I see that it's exposed at sunny 16: when I
actually meter things, I usually find that sunny 16 underexposes by a stop
or so. As I understand it, sunny 16 only applies with the sun within 30
degrees or so of hign noon.)

David J. Littleboy
Tokyo, Japan

Re: RVP 100 a bit too blue?

David J. Littleboy wrote:
> "Alan Browne" <alan.browne@FreelunchVideotron.ca> wrote:
>
>>David J. Littleboy wrote:
>>
>>>"Alan Browne" wrote:
>>>
>>>
>>>> http :// www .aliasimages,com /images/NaturalBridgesNP Sipapu BridgeSML.jpg
>>>>
>>>>(Nikon 9000 scanner, RVP 100 (Fuji Velvia 100, non F) 6x6, CZ 80 f/2.8,
>>>>no polarizer, about 1/60 f/16).
>>>>
>>>>Is that blue a bit over or what? No pol.
>>>
>>>
>>>That's why people shoot Velvia. (It'd be less blatant with 1/2 (or even
>>>1) stop more exposure.)
>>>
>>>Spot meter the sky away from the horizon, and shoot a series bracked in
>>>1/2 stops from -1 to + 2 EV. You'll get seven different shades of blue.
>>>Repeat for every film you'll be using.
>>
>>No thanks! I sometimes bracket if I'm uncertain, but for slide it would
>>be at most 1/2 stops either way.
>
>
> I think you misunderstand. The idea is to do this but once. Then (knowing
> how the film in your camera renders sky at various placements), when you
> look at a scene, you decide how you want the sky to look, spotmeter it, set

Yeah, I figured that out after I hit the send button...

> the exposure compensation determined in the test, and get the sky you want
> every time. (Or at least know what the sky is going to look like when you
> set the exposure for the subject. No surprises is nice, but requires
> testing.)

See below.

>>I just found the blue to much more saturated than expected. It certainly
>>is so v. the E100VS I shot during the same trip.
>
>
> Like I said: that's why people shoot Velvia. It ain't for everyone. (I spent
> a year shooting Velvia 100F and went back to Provia 100F; Velvia is just too
> fussy about exposure, too contrasty, too blocked up in the highlights (which
> is why people use polarizers; they get sick of having holes burned in their
> film by specular reflections from leaves).) I still think that shot is at
> least 1/2 stop underexposed. (I see that it's exposed at sunny 16: when I
> actually meter things, I usually find that sunny 16 underexposes by a stop
> or so. As I understand it, sunny 16 only applies with the sun within 30
> degrees or so of hign noon.)

The thing about that location is that I was in the bottom of a deep
canyon so the detail on the left was in fairly deep shaddow. As it
turns out I did shoot a "thinner" v. of that shot (about 2/3 stop) but
the reds in the arch are paled out too much.

As to exposure it was just a guess as to which speed I shot (I didn't
meter much at all on that trip just shot around EV 15. OTOH, the two
lenses I had with me are known to be a little on the slow side (1/3 to
2/3 stops depending on speed chosen) so that can contribute to the deep
saturation as well.

I have shot a lot of velvia (50) in 35mm, I just don't recall getting
such deep blues. Have to crack open the storage boxes...

Cheers,
Alan

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Re: RVP 100 a bit too blue?

Alan Browne wrote:
> http :// www .aliasimages,com /images/NaturalBridgesNP_Sipapu_BridgeSML.jpg
>
> (Nikon 9000 scanner, RVP 100 (Fuji Velvia 100, non F) 6x6, CZ 80 f/2.8,
> no polarizer, about 1/60 f/16).
>
> Is that blue a bit over or what? No pol.

You were at an elevation over 6800 feet, with clean, unpolluted
air and low humidity. If you want to see *really* dark sky,
try Velvia 50 with a polarizing filter, and you can get it
to look almost black!

For a more natural look, try Provia instead of Velvia.

Jay Ts

Re: RVP 100 a bit too blue?

On May 28, 3:27 am, Alan Browne <alan.bro...@FreelunchVideotron.ca>
wrote:
> http :// www .aliasimages,com /images/NaturalBridgesNP_Sipapu_BridgeSML.jpg
>
> (Nikon 9000 scanner, RVP 100 (Fuji Velvia 100, non F) 6x6, CZ 80 f/2.8,
> no polarizer, about 1/60 f/16).
>
> Is that blue a bit over or what? No pol.

yeah. I reckon you're around 1/2 stop under:
Velvia 100 saturates blues like crazy with
even small amounts of underexposure.
Nothing wrong with it, just the nature of the beast.
Nice image, BTW.

Re: RVP 100 a bit too blue?

Noons wrote:
> On May 28, 3:27 am, Alan Browne <alan.bro...@FreelunchVideotron.ca>
> wrote:
>
>> http :// www .aliasimages,com /images/NaturalBridgesNP Sipapu BridgeSML.jpg
>>
>>(Nikon 9000 scanner, RVP 100 (Fuji Velvia 100, non F) 6x6, CZ 80 f/2.8,
>>no polarizer, about 1/60 f/16).
>>
>>Is that blue a bit over or what? No pol.
>
>
> yeah. I reckon you're around 1/2 stop under:
> Velvia 100 saturates blues like crazy with
> even small amounts of underexposure.
> Nothing wrong with it, just the nature of the beast.
> Nice image, BTW.

Thanks... I have another that is about 1/2 stop thinner, but the res in
the bridge aren't as popped... one for the other...

Cheers,
Alan



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